My Grass Isnt Growing!? Answers and Solutions 

You got this!!!

LOL love it!

Good feedback #2 goes hand in hand. Nitrogen pulls ph down for about 3 days on average which causes the growth. Not sure why that’s up for debate

@@pestandlawnginja, that is one I have not heard before, and I will look into it. But on the surface anything that changes pH for only three days is a very small change and I have a hard time thinking that is a significant amount.

@@pestandlawnginja, typical dog urine pH is between 6.5 and 7. That is not going to be a significant change. Now where is that shoulder shrugging emoji....

@@pestandlawnginja that is not what causes it to grow and green up. It's the urea in the urine. Come on man.

Me too! Appreciate all the support!

@@pestandlawnginja Same here, Your advice was so excellent in the past and my lawn is looking great from it, want to keep it that way

Bahahaha love it

@@pestandlawnginja 😊👍🏾

Appreciate the feedback Robert!

Thanks! Glad you're finding value! I occassionally get lost in the mountains. great place to go especially when it gets hot outside.

Thank you! Best of luck with the water correction

awesome! good luck!

Thanks Larry rolls is a funny dude

Thanks for the support!!!

Best of luck!

Appreciate it Gary!

💯!!! Slay that lawn

Thanks! Great place to live

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Ahhhh yeah!!!!

It's a great combo! Sounds like you have a good plan of attack! Slay that lawn baby!!!

Nice 👍 Slay that lawn!

💩 still no lawn!? Hit me up and let’s get on it

We’re back!

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You're welcome!

🤣🤣🤣🤣 well we don’t want that now do we

Thanks Abe!!!

Thanks bro!

That is a problem 😅

I prefer the beginning of the season before everything is put down. The goal is to supplement the plant. I find a lot of people get stuck trying to figure out how to “fix” the soil. Mother Nature always wins

@@pestandlawnginja I have heard 6-8 weeks after a fast release fert, and 10-12 weeks after a slow release. Does that have any validity?

Thanks bro!

I haven’t had the pleasure! I’ll look it up and check it out. The biggest problem I run into is few to none are rated for Kentucky bluegrass

@@pestandlawnginja ….Prograss can be used on KBG. $520 for 2.5 gal.

It can get tough when you first start. You're soil numbers are almost identical to mine. I have hard compact clay that I've been conditioning for the past 3 to 4 seasons. Its awesome now but took some time to get there. You can copy what I've done if you watch my playlist "this is my lawn"

@@pestandlawnginja being in Florida I’m told I have a sandy soil. I’m assuming that would be a little easier to combat compaction v clay or is compaction compaction (doesn’t matter)?

Humic will help.

Awesome! Hopefully it didn't scare you off

@@pestandlawnginja 🤣

We can do that through solução media but the problem is they commonly analyze what’s in the soil vs plant available which is why I like to use my soil

@@pestandlawnginja awesome, sent you a message on your Instagram

you can do normal treatments at low low doses during the seeding and planting process.

if gypsum is calcium sulfate why won't it lower pH?

@@jonathantiernan2148 It all comes down to some (relatively) basic science. pH is actually just the measure of Hydrogen in the soil (pH stands for potential of Hydrogen). Lime (calcium carbonate CaCO3) raises pH by means of a chemical reaction between the Hydrogen in the soil. Two Hydrogen ions will split off the calcium portion and bond with the carbonate (CO3) to produce CO2 (carbon dioxide) and H2O (water). The carbon dioxide eventually leaves the soil and all that remains is the water and calcium and you have removed two free Hydrogen ions (which again, determines pH - more Hydrogen = lower pH ... less Hydrogen = higher pH, it is an inverse relationship). So you can see here it is the reaction between the carbonate and the Hydrogen that reduces pH, not the calcium. Now lets look at Calcium Sulfate, it is CaSO4 and when added to the soil/water produces CaSO4·2H2O which equals Ca2+ + SO42- + 2H2O this adds calcium (Ca2+) and sulfate (SO42-) and the water (2H2O) remains unchanged but this doesn't add or take away any Hydrogen ions. Thus it doesn't reduce pH. This is the same for all sulfates, SO4 won't react to reduce pH since it is already fully oxidized. Now lastly lets talk about elemental sulfur (S0), this will react with the soil in the following equation: CO2 + S0 + ½O2 + 2H2O -> CH2O + SO42- + 2H+ As you can see here, the result is CH2O (formaldehyde) + SO42- (sulfate) + 2H+ (two free hydrogen ions). It is those two free Hydrogen ions that are released that lowers the pH (since more Hydrogen means lower pH), not the sulfate.

It pulls ph down temporarily. As I’ve said in the past it won’t pull it down forever due to the explanations given below.

​@@pestandlawnginja It won't pull pH down at all, even temporarily. Gypsum doesn't react in soil to increase or decrease Hydrogen which means that it can't affect pH. There have been plenty of studies regarding soil pH and gypsum, iowa state has a good article that sums it up quite nicely or read my explanation above. I don't believe I'm allowed to post urls here.

@@pestandlawnginja Check "iastate gypsum old product new use" should be the first result. Or simply look for "does gypsum lower pH" you will see results from a slew of universities including iastate, msu, osu, ucdavis, etc. showing that it does not lower pH. Don't take this as me attacking you, I'm a huge fan - love the vids. Just trying to help you make your lawn care game even better. Edit: I know you've been recommending gypsum to lower pH for a long time, but even an old dog like Ned can learn new tricks right :).

Right as Rain! Thanks for all the support Wilvert!

@@pestandlawnginja thanks of you I have one of the best laws and I can’t thank you enough

could be a few things. 1. if that area isn't getting more than 4 hours of sunlight even shade seed will struggle and eventually die. 2. it may be the water isn't sufficient due to the needs of the tree. 3. sand doesn't hold nutrients, so you may be correct on lack of nitrogen, or another element.

Thanks Charles love the feedback

I have a video on this. I believe it’s called best fertilizer . You only need what is deficient in the soil. So yes, you only need one type and the numbers on the bag will be determined on what your soil needs

If you have a ton of gravel an inch down the grass will survive but it won’t stay green when it gets warmer. Best to dig it out. The work around is water daily

Thanks ! I enjoy a good camera

This is a tough one. Unfortunately thoroughly raking the grass or peeling the grass back and removing the concrete sludge is the only way

You can

hard to say really. what I have experienced is commonly when you have weeds that are thriving potassium counts are low. I find conditioning the soil with proper nutrients is a great start. I'd also consider looking at watering practices and how much sun or shade is present. all of the above will effect rooting.

I lightly raked through some of my areas. Worked well. Ultimately those areas will self resolve

@@pestandlawnginja thank you

It’s true. I commonly soil test at the beginning of the season prior to any fertilizer apps

watering once a week is fine but you need to check our watering recommendations at myallgreen.com/watering . you can also look into products like hydretain to help keep water in the soil. I save 20% water consumption using the granular once a season.

That my friend is an F you fence LMAO

São meus prediletos da vida!

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Artificial turf !

I use 25lbs per 1000 ft2. I’d consider elemental sulfur

@@pestandlawnginja yup that's because gypsum wouldn't lower soil ph.

You can use any or all of these throughout the growing season

Here’s my 2c. I don’t believe that height of cut would have made a difference. Scalping can cause some stress. The lower you mow the more frequently you need to mow to prevent scalp stress. Brown edges of newly laid sod are commonly from lack of water. It is possible to over water and have similar problems. Seeding can help. If you have left over sod you can cut the dead out and replace with new pieces

Ferris sulfate helps a lot and regular dethatching with a sun Joe detached

I'm in WA as well. I've had to deal with moss in spring every year, but slowly improving. I do sun joe tines, liquid moss out (ferrous sulfate), wait a week or 2, sun joe scarify blades + groundskeeper 2 rake to pull up the dead moss, then one more app of liquid moss out if necessary to make sure the moss is dead. Wait 4-6 weeks then apply pelletized lime and overseed the bare spots. I start that in March and overseed in early May usually. All that is treating the symptoms though. The cause is usually shade, poor drainage, low pH. So to solve all that it's usually remove/prune trees if possible, improve drainage with a French drain or some kind of drainage or maybe aerate and topdress with sand (I'm trying that out in a couple small areas), get a soil test early spring each year to see if adding lime is raising your pH. It takes a long time. Also be aware that applying synthetic fertilizer over and over can acidify your soil, so I'm trying out purely organic. The biggest pain is leaves and pine needles dripping and falling on the grass also acidify the soil, and the constant clean up can make it too much work. I'll eventually do some landscaping in the areas where needles are dropping cuz all grass hates it.

man..... I'm pretty sure I have that too hahaha

Winner Winner!

@@pestandlawnginja great video (as always)

no. japanese beetles that lay the eggs overwinter in the larval stage. so there's always a chance. A pull test will help identify the issues. a preventive insecticide is best if your area is a well known area to grubs

Right... I appreciate your work.

Non selective is all the same chemical. Just get roundup or rather whatever the highest strength of Glyphosate that’s available is. If your looking for a more broad spectrum semi selective herbicide, Tzone is my choice as it works well and is what was recommended before.

Depends on the species of grass. Tzone and speedzone are my favorites but for tank spraying on a budget I use triplet

Non selective like you wanna just kill? There’s always vinegar… use a lot and it can mess with your PH tho.

@@pestandlawnginja is that Nufarm Triplet SF? Looks like that won’t kill most grass. Could I use that for the tank sprayer as an alternative to tenancity and speed zone in the tank sprayer without killing my tall fescue ? I don’t think I was clear in my question. Let me try this. I also want something for the tank sprayer in 4 gallon batches that will kill almost anything. It would be like what roundup does or driveway clear. Thanks brother.

Sounds fun

@@pestandlawnginja i learn from the best!

Thanks!!!! New merch Ive been working on.

Love it Trevor! Wouldn't have it any other way

It is temporary but I disagree it has zero impact

@@pestandlawnginja let's put it this way. It has less than 19% Sulphur, which as we know turns to sulfuric acid to battle PH down. Even with pure Sulphur ot is a multi years game for sandy soil. What about 5 times less potent thing. Yeah I can make an ocean one drop of water at a time, but not in a lifetime.

@@milenstoimenov9532 The sulfur is in sulfate form which won't react to increase the Hydrogen content of the soil (thus lowering pH). So yes, Milen is correct that it won't lower pH. Edit: Sulfate sulfur also won't 'turn to sulfuric acid' since it is already oxidized and can't react further.

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@@pestandlawnginja add that to the appeal for Pest and Lawn Ginja!

Raw diet for him was the best in that regard

sometimes you gotta talk about urine

Interesting