You very lucky to have a great dad to help you along and pass the skills. I rebuilt my fist one in 1974 and completely cocked it up however Have now rebuilt my XK engine from lifelong skills and it runs great.Little advice-Use some cheaper oil to get it running and after the first hour change the oil and filter. You'll be amazed how dirt still is in there however careful you are. This will avoid any grit or swarf causing damage.
Adam. Great to hear from you. I agree, this engine was pretty surface corroded inside so a quick oil flush would probably be best. To be honest I didn't clean it all that thoroughly either.
I'm just binge watching these and really want it to go on and on until you've got heading down the highway and making that sweet, Sweet Jaguar growl! Thank you once more for the great content!
Absolutely fascinating to watch! Great camera work, Richard. Nice and close with good focus. I admire the skills and knowledge of you and your Dad. Thanks for sharing, really enjoyed this whole process!
Nice plus points for using a piston ring spreader. Mind you I did have a small heart attack when the hammer appeared, almost shouted no don't hit the piston with the metal hammer head but fortunately you were only using it to seat the ring compressor before correctly using the handle to tap the piston in!
Man I did an engine like this, it was a sbc, with just cleaning it by hand and a few tools like you are using. With the dingle ball tool and the ring expander. It ran fine, always a little loose but it ran for many years. It was done this way for decades. But it is good to see someone doing it these days.
Say Richard, I saw you reusing many crusty original bolts. Te;ll me that you cleaned them all with a wire wheel, especially the threads ! I really enjoy your series on this awesome engine. Thanks !
I thought crankshaft end float is 0.003" to 00.5" We used to grind away a bit of the front main cap so you didn't have to remove the dizzy gear. Used to get score marks on the edges of the oil pump rotor and inside the star. Hope you didn't line up the gaps in the piston rings, rist/risk pins ? , gudgin pins. I would have liked a piston ring tool like that 50 years ago. When fitting new pistons the numbers on the con rods went to the exhaust side if i remember corectly. Cheers from uk.
Jeffery, thanks for your comments. I just checked the manual both 3.8 and 4.2 and they list 0.003 to 0.006 end float. Yeah the pump looked great, just the drive on it from the distributor gear was a little worn. Your right we should have made the ring gap placement more clear.
Coming back to this video after losing half my oil pressure this week, I really struggle to see what could let go to cause such a massive drop in pressure. That pump is built like a tank. The engine sounds great. Assuming the pressure sender is ok, I guess I'll start by taking the sump off
@@RichardMichaelOwen thanks for replying Richard, I will get a mechanical guage on it soon. Hopefully just the sender, the guage reads maximum and minimum ok when shorting the sender wire to the block.
you could do with an ultrasonic cleaner for those pistons etc
5 лет назад
The gaps on the top 3 piston should be set at 120 degrees apart so compression does not go straight past the rings. Stagger the gaps will prevent this.
Wow thats insane how the oil pressure is dependent on a o ring thats inside on a area that gets super hot to begin with, a flange on the pump and on the pick up tube with a gasket and bolts would have solved this easily from the factory, guess it works that way though.
Considering how frozen the wrist pins were completely checking them by disassembly would be a really good idea but I get it sort of a quick budget rebuild but if they have roller bearings in them they really should be checked
Ha, I'm watching your 2017 OICC show vid right now. I haven't see an Austin A55 since I was driven to the bus stop for school in N.Z , mid 70's It was old even then. Probably worth $250. My mistake ; actually it's phonetically "Jag -you- ah". Silent 'h" . Or just say "JaGGG !" Like Jeremy Clarkson. :)@@RichardMichaelOwen
@Paul O'Conner Yours is the British pronunciation of an animal and name who's origin is all western hemisphere. It's native Brazilian origin is ya-gwar . In USA, Canada (whence our narrator is from , it's ja-gwar. TWO syllables. When in Rome....
Hmm Lock Tabs, they were put there for a reason and old technology or not, they have a specific application on that engine, when a bolt rattles out, you will think why didn't I use the fold over locks. I notice you folded over 1 edge of a 2 fold lock tab on the oil pump. As you have previously stated, doing a thorough job is best.
Easily best show on You Tube but your scaring me with how close your working to the E type bonnet also why don't you sonic clean the bolts? But what do I know thanks guys excellent
Richard, did you folks oil the rings and cylinder walls before fitting the pistons? I have subscribed to this channel so I can watch this build up,..BUT I think I would have used all NEW bolts and nuts and certainly had those old wrist / gudgeon pins and their retainers replaced as well. I think an engine re-build in this class, (Jaguar) deserves this. I was told many years ago that " any job worth doing, is worth doing well." I am not saying you are wrong in what you are doing, I am just saying what I have done before. If I were there in your shop, I would ave asked the same question, I am merely chatting, with you.
The simple answer to why is metal fatigue. Imhop, all fasteners, bolts, nuts, washers etc. should have been replaced with new ones just like bearings and seals.
When you first started to take the pistons out one or two of the Gudgeon/ wrist pins were tight, i would of taken them all out but it depends whether they are fully floating or shrink fit in the piston.
I'm sure I saw a circlip for a brief moment there in the side of a piston suggests to me they are fully floating. I have never heard of shrink fit in a piston, maybe you mean heat/press/shrink fit into the connecting rods ala Small block Chevy/Cooper 'S' etc.
@@dalybaz Hi Baz, my Vincent motorcycle has shrink fit gudgeon pins. You have to heat the pistons in an oven to expand them and very quickly slip the pin through the piston and rod then fit the circlips.
@@johncone9516 Way cool. (no pun intended) That's one way to cure a rattle. I take it that the circlips are there to prevent bore scoring in case of an engine overheat. I've really only had experience with BMC 'A' series engines. The 850s and 997s and minors had pinch bolt gudgeons, the 998s and 1098s had fully floating pins with circlips while the Cooper 's' and 1275 Spridgets had an interference fit on the conrods. All rather confusing really. If you are hotting up a minor 1000 you pinch the pistons and rods from a 998. The maximum I ever got a Minor was 105 thou oversize using +60thou 998 Mini pistons. Another good mod is to use Teflon plugs to replace the circlips which have a habit of jumping out at high revs, with obvious consequences.
Nice Sequel to follow when rebuilding these engines! I'm curious what type of piston rings did you choose? Do you have any suggestions based on the wear of the block?
OK Richard I don't know if this has been mentioned before but unless your dad has a gun at your head it is obvious that you have a great deal of knowledge (and also its obvious you dad does too), I love your video's and if you weren't that you live in freezy ass Can Nah Da I'd even visit you (so be thankful, a million questions have do I). I am currently re-building my MKII XK engine and was going to be sending you a couple of questions through your website but cannot find a Email address ??
OK you asked :) as I do not have access to all the tools you have when sizing the crank seal is it possible to use the crank and do it in stages, ie: crank in lower seal in place then remove do it again with upper half in place ?
Old video, but i will still leave a comment . Why not re-tin piston/skirts for lubricity? Also, all should use extreme caution ballerizing block or using scotch brite. Both leave silicon carbide abrasive, no matter how well you clean. I’ve looked at 100 engines with electron microscope after rebuild where SiC contaminants were the cause of the failure. Either spun bearings of scuffed piston. Clean carefully if used (thorough rinse with solvent).
I,m curious,,,,, 1000$ bucks for the engine... i,ve seen the oil pan for 1000 pounds!! I am wondering what the value of a restored engine like yours is.
I believe this is done when installing new pistons ,rods etc,since they are reusing the same pistons and rods this process was done 50 something years ago, wouldn't hurt to check them though.
I was with you all the way until you said you're not replacing the rod bolts!! Whaaaa.....aat??? You spent all of that time and money cleaning, prepping, replating bolts, nuts, washers but you reuse the rod bolts? It's lunacy, plain and simple. Those bolts have been stretched, have seen many cycles and are fatigued and should never be reused. God blessed you with a all original standard bore block, perfect uncut crank and you risk it all by not replacing the single most important fastener in the engine...SMH
Let's see, time will tell. I think this engine was fairly low mileage. I have seen many rebuilt Jaguar engines with original rod bolts, they seem to hold up.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Thank you for replying, and I wish you nothing but the best of luck with the engine and car. I love the old Jags and the thought of that rare, near new engine pitching a rod thru the side of the block and destroying it gives me chills and would be a very sad day.
