Hey mongoosejake, just wanted to mention that you kinda inspired me to rebuild my old 'goose I had laying around. So far it's looking good, (the only thing stock is the frame, and a few bolts)- went all out and powder coated it as well. Will share a vid once I'm done. Please continue to make vids, peace man
Thanks for the comment, I'm glad something that I've done inspired someone else to give a build a try! I'm indeed planning a return to this channel, it's been quite some time since I've put mountain bike videos up and I'm wanting to breath some fresh air into the channel once again. Personal life can get in the way big time sometimes, and that's what happened. Time to get back to fun stuff again.
I have a Blackcomb that I use mainly as a commuter bike. A while back, the rear derailer got caught in the spokes and bent the derailer stay and destroyed the rear derailer. I was afraid to try to bend it back myself, nor did I have the equipment. I took it to a LBS and they fixed it and replaced the derailer with a higher quality derailer from a pull off. The bike cost me about $200 from Walmart back in 2007 or 2008. In my city, downtown main street is brick laned with railroad tracks and this mountain bike does well in this environment. A road bike would result in constant road rash. For the money. a Blackcomb is hard to beat. I just wish it wasn't so heavy, then again, my wife probably wishes I wasn't so heavy. Anyway, good job on the custom job.
Jake, After speaking with you about the mongoose blackcomb from your video I have completed my own build. I cant thank you enough for the inspiration. Last night was the first test ride here in San Diego with some great trails. Send the frame and swingarm to powder, Fox float 32 forks 140mm travel, fox float dps 6.5x1.5 shock, ks dropper post with shim, velocity custom blunt 35 tubeless wheels with kenda nevegal pro tires, shimano xt group set 2x11 with 180/160 ice rotors/hydraulic brakes and race face carbon bar/stem. Very easy build as everything is compatible with the frame. Cane creek 40 head set with the 1 1/8 straight tube fox forks, fox dps shock with the 803-03-197 top bushing kit, standard shimano bottom bracket. I did go a little overboard on price but after riding with friends that have high end treks, giants and other brands I had no problem keeping the trails jumps up and down hills with them. So thanks again for the help!
That sounds like a spot on aggressive trailbike setup. The fork travel is right (the Blackcomb needs a 130-160 to get a proper headtube angle in my opinion), a dropper post is almost a requirement with the very short seat tube on the frame, you didn't go too oversized on the rotors (and the 160 in back is a good choice). Good choices overall, and I'd be curious on the Race Face carbon stem when used long term and ridden aggressively. Others may think you're crazy for going all out on a Blackcomb, but not me. That's a grade A+ build, and I hope you enjoy it for a long time to come!
mongoosejake im new to any kind of riding other than mostly flat ground or easy trails. Ive only taken the bike out once since completing the build yesterday but it handles trails obstructions, up and down hills with ease. The race face bars have a nice rise and sweep as well as width for a solid grip and control. I went with some ergo comfort grips with the hooks to keep my hands from sliding off which came in handy after thick brush tried to yank my hand off the bar. Ill be posting some videos here of the trails to see what kind of riding its doing. It seems to be a perfect jack of all trades bike regardless the weight!
Just think about this: While some riders absolutely obsess over every gram you're getting a good workout with a moderate weight trail bike compared to a super light XC bike, and your bike will be built with durable components.
I have a Mongoose Blackcomb that I would like to upgrade, especially the shifting system. Not an expert on bike technology. Could I buy any groupset named Shimano XT on eBay and it will be compatible with the frame and the shifting controllers? Anything else I would need to think of? (Planning to get a dropper post too)
The Blackcomb frame is amazing! Always has been always will be. I Built one a long time ago, sold it and its still going strong to this day. Haters love to hate this bike and thats another reason I love it so much. Totally worth upgrades. I just ordered another after this video reminding me of my old one. Pulling parts off my S Works as we speak for the goose ... Lmao 😂. Yeah I go against the grain. Great video. Love the build!
I just recently came across this particular frame. It has potential, and I was thinking about the same fork too. If one wanted to, some extra-curricular welding could re-configure the rear shock to the top tube/main beam intersection. With slightly more wheelbase, and greater travel, it could make for a budget downhiller and might not be as twitchy as a NX 9.7 - (which was pre-wal-mart, and considerably more expensive). The frame is also sturdy enough to support electric bike conversion hardware with fat tire mods too. I like this frame, I may monkey with one myself ...
Just picked one up for $50, first bike i have owned in over 20 years. I wanted something that i could rediscover riding in and tinker with. So far im very happy with it.
I built one of those bikes up last year and it has performed very well as a trail bike. Mine has a single chainring but still has enough range to get it to go anywhere. I abuse the crap out of mine and it still keeps going.
hey mongoose jake, i just now found out about your channel and i subscribed. i have been searching for a channel devoted to "REAL WORLD TYPE Mtn. bikes", or big box store bikes. i have a mongoose LEDGE 3.5 29er mtn. bike. while not as beautiful as your blackcomb it is a beauty in it's own, and draws a crowd everywhere you take with very positive comments, it is pearl white with red and black trim it's not everyone that can afford a $2000.00 to $6000.00 bike, the likes of treks, giants, cannondales, canyons , niners ,etc. i am a retired auto., heavy truck & diesel mechanic,and 70 years old and just love working on bikes. i also have a next 26 in. mtn. bike that is a real beauty also. both bikes are basically stock, except for brake and shift cables. and i got both bikes used. my fave of coarse is the mongoose 29er. what is your opinion of the mongoose ledge 3.5?? glad you are back and making more vids. some of the forums act rather snobish when they hear you have a mongoose . a lot of them really show their ignorance with statements like, "every bike walmart makes is junk" i asked them have you ever seen a bike built by walmart?? i have never seen or heard of walmart being in the bike mfg. business. will be awaiting more of the great videos... thanks, jake... j2rocket
Glad to have you aboard! The Ledge 3.5 is a pretty good bike for the money even stock, since it has a few features needed for future upgrades such as the 1 1/8" threadless headtube/headset and the frame has disk tabs on the rear. I like the look of the frame, with its clean look and smooth lines. Would make for a nice build!
Also, more videos will be on the way for the coming season. I'm working too many hours right now to get in much riding, and I don't post reviews on products that I haven't logged enough time on.
The frame on this Mongoose Blackcomb looks pretty close to my 1998 Specialized FSR I just bought. This was Specialized first heavy-duty trail bike, while the Specialized Stumpjumper XC was a cross-country mountain bike. Until recent years when Specialized made the Stumpjumper a heavy-duty trail bike.
Thanks! This was a frame up custom build that turned a $300 bike into a serious trailbike that can handle some abuse. I've put some serious hours in on it riding good trails and can say it handles great, really nice to jump erosion bars on downhill trails!
Nice bike. How muchbshould i expect to pay for a set of used Marzocchi downhill forks? I found a guy selling a used set on craigslist for $220. Is that fair?
i find these builds as cool as the "endless funds" builds. taking something that is otherwise built for obsolescence and making it last longer, keeps it out of the trash and likely to last long enough for a second or third owner.
Thanks to you, I'm getting a Blackcomb to build up (hopefully I can get it to be even half as nice as yours). That "other" snobby mountain bike forum isn't for me, and Big Box Bikes and your videos were just what I was looking for.
If I tried, it would get too expensive overall. Honestly, if you have a local machine shop they would be able to do the same thing I had done. Just take the stock bushings and they can mill out brass replacements easily. Have them do a couple of complete sets (I did) and you're set for a decade or two.
call Pacific cycle and buy the bushing kits they are about 12 bucks all bushings included, if the machine shop is too much money. they also sell the pivot point as well.
Dude, I love your bike. It's super cool looking. I'm interested in painting mine the same colors. Can you please post what paint brand and paint codes you used, Thank you!
Hi @mongoosejake, I’m building up my old black comb right now. I’m super excited. I have to ask, what rear shock did you buy? I can’t find a replacement shock for mine yet. It sees that the eyelet to eyelet length is very strange. I’d appreciate any insight!
I really would like some advice as to how to rebuild mine I recently dusted off my old silver blackcomb and want to make it better had this thing since brand new in 05
The Stat is the replacement for the Deception and uses the exact same parts on what looks to be a slightly overbuilt frame that will likely be a bit heavier than the Deception was. It's a good bike for the low cost, and can be made much better over time. That said, if you can find a Deception then get it. The Deception was a well built frame for the price, and has been built into many nice bikes. Check out the bigboxbikes forum to see for yourself what others have done.
I dont know why so many elite bike riders look down in people riding these bikes. I play tennis and usually tennis players are not as elitist with equipment as bike riders. Having said that i have done advanced trails here in Miami. And although i understand that our advanced trails are not comparable to the ones up north this bike has taken up some considerable abuse. I should mention that my bike is almost completely stock, rear shock springs squeaks a bit but i do keep up with my friends with more expensive bikes. Did hundreds of miles over roots, rocks jumps , branches trunks , water strams, you name it ...other than a slughtly bent rear wheel it is still churning along. For a 300 dollar bike it has been a worthy one and eats any surface i throw at it. It is also a good road bike. In addition sometimes I take it to the store instead of the car and it makes me feel better that i have a 300 dollar bike and not a 3000 one tied to the bike rack outside. The only upgrade i feel this bike urgently needs is better brakes.the mechanical disk brakes that ckme with it have been durable, but a little unerving going down steep hills. What sensible upgrade do you recommend? Thanks
Looks great. Like the white and orange. One thing though,looks like very little tire clearance at the chain stay where it meets the bottom bracket / pivot.
The clearance could be a issue in really sticky and muddy conditions. The solution for me in that situation is to run a slightly narrower but deeper tread tire. I keep about 10 different front and rear tires for different bikes and conditions on hand at all times.
Do you have info on this exact front triple tree fork,,,your so right the stick is too short,,I'd love this or a lesser expensive but same dimension one
The fork is a Marzocchi Drop Off Triple, with the catch being that this one has QR dropouts instead of the common through axle. Hard to find, but it's exactly what I wanted.
Local machine shops are a great resource for bushing and other small custom made metal parts. The company I work for could make some, but you probably have a local shop that could as well, just take your stock bushings in for them to go by.
I've got a Blackcomb and it is in need of bearing replacement in the Bottom Bracket. What size bearings does it take or can I replace it with a cassette (size as well)? Just wondering as it is a beast of a bike and I'm out here in Afghanistan as a contractor so getting a replacement bike is out of the question. Rebuild is my only option. I may just go with full on Crank and Bottom Bracket replacement but trying to find the sizes are a stone cold B!tc#. Thanks for any help.
Why would you go with grip shifters instead of trigger shifters? Just wondering. PS I have this bike stock but would never try to put that much money into it if I had that much money I would buy a new good trail bike
I'll answer both questions/statements... 1: I prefer twist over triggers after riding for the past 17 years, and even raced using twist shifters all the way up to the top ten in my state. The quick turns and up and downs of local trails mean that I might be bombing downhill at full speed into a sharp corner into a uphill climb in a instant. Being able to quickly and smoothly shift through 4 or 5 gears instantly is a nice ability for me to have. So, personal preference. 2: I prefer to build my bikes from the frame up, including some one-off custom parts (like the bushings and main pivot pinch bolt here). I love the individuality it gives my bikes and allows me to choose each part for my own taste and performance preference. Hope that clears it up. PS: I'll be doing another Blackcomb this coming spring!
Does anyone how to get the linkage near the bottom bracket apart? I have a cheap frame laying around and it should have the same linkage but i don't see anything and i also couldn't find anything!
On the Blackcomb (and many other full suspension bikes of all prices and brands) the main pivot (near the bottom bracket) is held on by a large pinch style bolt. A allen head bolt is threaded into a larger bolt and when tightened they pull together and hold the pivot together. Loosen the allen head bolt and get it out first, then tap the larger bolt out by using a small pipe or punch (careful not to damage the threads). If it's a older frame, or has been heavily used, or exposed to the weather much it may take some effort to punch out the larger portion of the pinch bolt. Soaking the whole pivot with WD40 or other lubricant can help!
MongooseJake I'll try it and report if i was successful or not. If i can't get it apart it doesn't really matter but would be nice if i could look into it even though it moves pretty smooth. Thanks for the answer!
Great build and videos! I'm (re)building a Mongoose Plan X that I picked up almost unused for $35. I'm upgrading parts and my wife calls it my "Zombie" bike since it's coming back to life. I can get a Blackcomb in great shape for $50. Researching the bike is how I found you and your videos. On the Plan X I swapped some parts, got some decals the say "Zombie" and "Apocalypse Edition" a lot of the bike snobs say "nice looking bike, is that a new custom Colorado builder like Yeti or Astrix?" LOL
You really need to get the dropper cable tied up. That much extra cable is asking for a tree or something to grab it. I use some velcro tabs. Stick 2 on the frame 2 on the cable and your set. A ziptie works better, but if you want "pretty and clean look" go with the velcro.
I actually had it loose for cleaning. I have it routed through the frame and fork uppers, and then used some Origin8 cable guides to route it along the frame.
I would love to see a video of this build in action! Also, if you know, how heavy is the stock Blackcomb? I might consider purchasing the new rereleased model.
Glad to be of help! The Blackcomb is a nice bike once built properly, as in stock form it has an odd build to it that doesn't really suit the frame in my opinion.
quick question for you concerning the derailleur hanger. I'm having trouble bending it (dropped on pavement the first time, derailleur caught in spokes the second). After bending it pretty good the second time, I'm thinking about replacing it. Any thoughts on that?
Is yours replaceable? On the Blackcomb the hanger is part of the swingarm, while on most bikes it is a bolt on piece. As long as it's replaceable, get a few spares and dont hesitate to swap them out, as a bent hanger can wreck your shifting.
I know it's been a few years but I have the same bike and it's beat. Looking to upgrade vice replace. What info do you have regarding shock and fork options. Thanks Chad
Any shock with a slim eye (where the shock bolts to the frame) such as a Fox Vanilla or Rockshox Deluxe in a 6.5" x 1.5" size will do the job. The stock shock is a 6" x 1" size that's a bit hard to find, but I've built two of the Blackcombs and mounted the 6.5" x 1.5" on each with no issues. On the fork, any fork with a 1 1/8" threadless steer tube will fit, but the bike really handles best with a 120mm to 150mm fork depending on your sag settings. The headtube is plenty strong and heavily re-inforced, and the head angle seems built for a 5" fork or so.
Is there a specific model? Ive contacted several manufactures and they ask for information I dont have, specifically like stroke length for the shock and bushing sizes.
The 6.5" x 1.5" size is fairly universal. To break that sizing down, the eye to eye length is the 6.5" measurement, and the 1.5" dictates the stroke. To get a nice shock without having to fork over too much cash, look for a Fox Vanilla R (R means it'll have a rebound adjustment) coil shock. The bushing size will be the measurement for the spacers (aka bushings) that fit your shock to the bike properly. I don't have the Blackcomb in my fleet anymore, so I can't give you a sure fire accurate measurement, but what I'd do is this: Find a good Fox, and then once you have it, take the measurements for the bushings. That will ensure you get the right ones.
Badass! But I was greatly disappointed when I realized this isn't the stock bike. Dam I almost thought they got it right! I was hoping to not have to mod anything!!
hey mongoosejake, when you did the build, did you end up with a bottom bracket height of a hair under 15 in. I was wondering if I was the only one with this result.
ah...that makes sense cause putting a real rear shock on the mongoose is a bear lol...Did you notice a difference when you put brass bushings on it to replace the plastic ones? Cause I need to replace the ones on mine and I think I found a site that I can order replacement plastic ones but I'm not sure. Do you still have the bike? Yours turned out nicer than mine lol
Jake, what do yo uthink about the Mongoose STAT? I had a $3k bike which just got stolen and needed a bike so I ordered the STAT from walmart. needs to be tuned and not sure to keep it.
Nice Bike! I was thinking about doing a rebuild on a grey mongoose just like yours before the build. Question: What is the rear shock? I did not catch exactly the name of it. I getting rough estimates about how much it would be to redo the suspension. Could you give me an idea of what kind of rear shocks would work or recommendation after doing the project yourself.
I used a Rockshox Deluxe 6.5x1.5. I had to modify the frame (i.e. grind some material around the frame to fit it) and it's still a tight fit. I also had to use the original bushings as the ones that come with it are too small inside to fit the bolt through. This shock cost me about $50 on ebay and its worth the upgrade. I hope this helps
Awesome! Thanks. I just started working this summer and I'm to try and sell my 2011 Trek Fuel Ex 5 and use that money with my summer money to get an newer "All-Mountain" bike. It will have about 140mm to 160mm of travel front and rear. That should be good for most downhill riding and I will be able to ride some pretty big inclined trails. I dont have the luxery of going to a mountain and getting a ride from the chair life. Thanks again. Sweet setup! Do you still own the bike?
***** no problem, glad to help a fellow bike rider and yes I still do have the bike. I built it to do some drops, staircases and other stunts like that. I guess you can call it urban hucking or something like that. And I know what you mean about access to trails, the closest trail to me is a little over 100 miles away
That specific shock is a Fox Vanilla 6.5" eye-to-eye. I love the Vanilla's simplicity, and the fact that you can snag many of them in new condition by browsing parts exchange websites and ads. Pinkbike is a good source sometimes.
Total cost pushed into the $900 range, as I got great deals on some parts, and have a big stock of spares that are take-offs from other bikes (the wheels on this build were new take-offs for example).
+mongoosejake if you spent 900 dollars, why didn't you just buy something like a specialized mountain bike??? mongoose is like a cheap Walmart brand. in my opinion, you wasted your money
Well, first of all it has the proper geometry now with the taller fork, and secondly the headtube junction is more than reinforced enough for it (so no strength issues), and last... Why not? The fork's fairly light and responds well.
You could have gotten a single crown with similar travel that would have been significantly lighter. Unless you are doing purely downhill, dual crowns don't really provide any benefits while having quite a few negatives. Of course I don't know how much you paid for this. Maybe it was the best option.
The only true drawback would be frame damage if you did not mount bumpers to the upper fork legs between the dual crowns. I use foam grips zip tied on for that, and they work quite well. The fact is that the negatives of dual crown forks are vastly over blown. If your frame has a strong headtube junction, there's next to no reason not to run them if you don't mind a bit of extra weight. For me, the ability to easily adjust this project bike's geometry was worth far more than worrying about the slight weight increase. Simply being able to loosen and slide the crowns for the three different trails I ride on is valuable, and something a single crown fork simply can't do. I weighed the choice, and wanted to go the dual crown route. Zero regrets.
A dual crown will limit your turning radius, be significantly heavier and not really provide any real stiffness gains for trail riding. For a bike like yours, adjustable geometry would just change it from extremely steep to slightly less steep but still very steep. If that is the only "benefit" I don't really see the point.
The geometry is where you're greatly mistaken. The headtube with that fork ranged from 66 degrees (somewhat slack), to 69.5 degrees (somewhat steep). That's big on how a bike handles. Also: If you're believing that a dual crown limits your turning radius in a massive way, how tight of turns are you making? I've never once felt limited on any of my bikes that have ran a DC fork. If you're turning that tight, you can always pull a trials type hop and turn, which I do when riding urban stunts. Basically, you're just trying to pick away at my personal choice, which is just that... My personal choice. I've never made claims that anyone else has to follow my lead in building a bike, but rather showcased how a frame can be a blank canvas built up to suit a rider's own style of riding and taste in components. So, with that said, I still appreciate you watching and having the conversation here. Hope we can all ride and enjoy the sport in our own way!
Back at this point, and to answer... Basically life happened, in a serious way. Suffice to say, mountain biking helped get me through things, but I stopped doing the channel for personal reasons. Now's the right time to make a return though.
Wow this bike looks so awesome, but the skeletal brakes are so terrible, you would be better off with something like the lowest end sram or shmino brakes for example the db1 or even db3 brakes which cost rougly the same as the skeletal barke, you would have to buy a disc seperatley, but man they would be sooo much better. This was made a while back, but now its a no-brainer.
Not a issue on the Blackcomb. As a welder myself, I can easily tell that the amount of reinforcement at the headtube juction is substantial enough that I'd have no issue or worries about it's ability to handle a dual crown.
No worries! Some bikes aren't meant for the extra leverage that the longer dual crown can put onto the frame, but a frame with a massive mono front end like the Blackcomb is pretty stout. Not many of the lower end 'Goose frames (or any other brand for that matter) are capable of it, so it's more of a exception to that than the norm.
Let me guess... You're one of the riders who believe that Mongoose frames aren't any good eh? Simply put, the alloy is fine on this frame, the welds are good, lots of gusseting and reinforcements, and it's more than capable of moderate freeriding. How do I know? Because I've already put multiple Blackcombs through the paces on actual jump tracks, moderate DH courses, and used them for urban freeriding for years. Open your mind, or don't. Choice is yours.
mongoosejake planing a super budget build switching to Clark's hydro brakes going with a sram x4 drive train. Got a nice deore crankset with a single 34t chain ring. Get a nice stem and handlebars. And eventually new forks and rear shock. It came with some primo lizard skin grips and a hella nice bontrager saddle. Friggin pumped to get into it
Good to hear that, and it sounds like a good plan! On the forks, be sure to spec out 120mm-130mm forks. The Blackcomb's headtube is highly reinforced and can easily handle the extra travel, and the geometry is better suited with the bike feeling better balanced with a longer-than-stock fork. The stock fork is low on travel and creates a very steep headtube angle that can make the bike feel a bit nervous at higher speeds. Grad a longer fork and the 'Comb settles in nicely. I personally am planning to grab one of the new Blackcombs and go all-in on it next spring for the upcoming season. It'll be a fun project to do another and really see the limits of one.
I always install one on a fresh build. They are easy to take on and off (literally takes just a few moments), and until I've completely tuned everything they provide extra security. Once the bike is tuned and the rear derailleur is running perfect, off it comes. Don't get caught up in the typical bike fashion, the spoke protectors have a valid purpose, with them being easier to install and then remove rather than dealing with a chain sucked into the rear wheel as I tune the build.
Hey mongoose! Love ur vids!! I'm looking to build or restore a free ride/ light downhill bike on as light a budget as possible. U think u could help me out for ideas for parts on a budget? I'm looking for cheeper the better. Sorry for the long comment but I would love help thank you
check out my channel, its rides on my mongoose inspired by you. So far ive taken it to Mission Trails E ticket, Noble Canyon, H street/bonita trails, otay lakes/reservoir and soon anderson truck trail and snow summit. I added a few things missing like mrp bash guard/chain guide and a twin lock out remote system similar to scott bikes to control front and rear 3 position fox suspension. Im a newb but this bike is a blast! Ill post a walk around of the bike shortly but most details are below in a previous comment from chad bear.
About 66 degrees or so without sag taken into account. While seated, it settles in at around 68 or so. I run lots of sag on many of my bikes so that they can track rough ground well.
Absolutely not! For me, twist shifting is my preference. I've rode every type of trigger, and while Sram's are the best for me trigger wise, nothing beats out Sram twisters.
Well, many of my projects (I've taken a big break for personal reasons, but will be back up and running with the channel soon) are more about taking a blank canvas and seeing what I can do with it. The Blackcomb frame is solid, regardless of cost and makes for a fine tough frame to build off of. It's not light nor does it pedal great (unless you use a shock with platform valving), but it can take a real beating. No issues with either of the two Blackcombs I've built and then sold later even after they went through at least a couple of seasons of hard riding.
Well... Because the frame is solidly built, I like the overall design, and with what I did in this build, the bike is a great ride. The Blackcomb frame has massive reinforcements in the headtube and downtube junction (where it counts for a durable mid-to-longer travel trailbike), tight geometry for nimble, but stable handling, and is one of the better frames on the market when looking at bikes under a grand when considering durability and decent handling. It's actually a fine choice for a reasonable build. Now, on the other hand, I challenge you to accurately explain why it's so bad for me to build a bike the way I chose to. No elitism allowed, and you must site genuine factual reasons and be able to back up everything. I'll check back in a while.
