10:34 "so maybe that wasn't the answer that some people were expecting" I swear: There where so much more answers i expected! Your Videos are so full of knowledge and Information, listening to them is pure pleasure. Your channel is so underrated! Thanx for your work!
Thank you very much for this video... After doing the pressure and flow rate calibrations for my Overture filament, the prints are turning out 100% better. They are so smooth now. I never knew my prints could be this good.... Thank you again!!!
i like to use temp towers to test for mechanical strength (lamination strength). i use pliers and snap off each section, selecting strongest temp, and for ties picking the lower value.
Watching a print is absolutely the best way to diagnose anything. The X1C is sometimes a bit too fast to see what's going on, but in 99% of the time you can diagnose anything by just looking.
How ? What do you look for ? I'm really trying to figure out my X1C. Sometimes it will make the most outstanding prints. But then other times there are problems like crazy and I can't seem to figure out what is causing what try as I may. I've researched and learned and am up to speed on most of the info out there but it just seems like there are some secrets in there I need to discover.
I finally got some time to watch this…again, THANK YOU. I’m a furiously and frantically printing full beds, around the clock. I only sleep when I can. I dabbled with stacking and it seemed like too much effort at that time. Each bed takes 8hrs on a stock 0.4 nozzle with the .24 draft profile, in both ASA and PETG. My widget is for fishing and could be in direct sunlight for extended periods. I’m only using bambu filament. I need to cut those batch times down to be ready for launch this spring. I got a handful of the new modular hotends with cht clones. With Petg’s max volume now set to 27mmc/s with the cht 0.4 I shaved 2hrs off the batch but increased total filament per batch nearly 100g. I then screwed in the 0.6 cht and my carbon threw a thermal error at about 34mmc/s, but the calibration model looked amazing when it pooped. I’m wondering if I hit the max for the stock heater. I think others have flowed more than 34mmc/s with a carbon so I’m a little confused. I really am winging it, learning as I go. It seemed to me, max volumetric flow is the speed limiter on carbons. But these new nozzles can change that…which now has me wondering what the next limiter is. Any guidance or advice for this?
I have absolutely no advice for that haha. 34mm3/s is lot! I’d rather just get a second printer than try and make my one print faster and faster, but that’s just me. Of the prints I sell I don’t hit nearly the volume to need two or print very fast. That’s part of my this is just outside my realm of knowledge.
this video helped me tune my p1p to perfection I think what you said about tuning as you print different parts is very important I calibrated to what I thought was perfect based on the calibration. Then printed my own part and it looked terrible but just needed to dial back the PA
Really nice Video. Well done - Thank you. Just FYI: the blue to pink dessicant contains a carcinogenic (cobalt hexachloride). So you might want to switch that out to another variant that doesn't cause cancer.
Great video bro, I couldn't agree more about reacting to the prints IF something is not working. After some time of printing and doing tests, you just get an idea of what a certain print or filament is needing.
I have to admit, I wish my 3D printer had come with a warning label before I bought it (x1 carbon)... as someone completely new to any of this, it has been an extremely frustrating challenge, burning through a few hundred bucks in supplies trying to figure things out. But thankfully I found this channel and it's beeen helping. Keep it up!
after seeing this video as a brand new bambu owner i just switched to ORCA and the tests he shows here make it well worth it i got good results due to this education he gave us.
The comments on reacting to a print make me feel validated. I tend to tell folks to do this and they will sometimes scoff. It's good to hear it explained by someone more intelligent than me.
This is very close to how I do all my tuning. I do a max flowrate calibration first as my "temp" test. I do this to see how fast the filament can print while still getting a glossy outline. And increse temps if I want to get a faster print. Then do a flowrate calibration test with 0 - -3, and finally the PA tuning.
Thank you for really informative video. I'm starting with Silk PLAs having only a few prints yet so I'm really interested in fine tuning new prints. Wish you all the best.
Thank you sir! Just downloaded Orca 1.8. and was trying to figure out the best way to implement the sweet new calibration features on my A1M. This is awesome.
I love all the advice in this one, any chance of a video about the types of things you look for as they are printing and what the correct response to these issues are.
Yeah that’s something I really should make. It’s just hard because I need prints to get messed up first haha. I legit do tune all my printers with the prints you see here. Lately I’ve been printing that dice box like 90% of the time my machines run so it’s been a little boring. I’ll keep that idea in mind and try to do something eventually!
Thanks a lot for the video! I've been using this method to calibrate my filaments but I wish you would have spent more time explaining how to properly choose the "sharpest corner" and the best too surface. Maybe I'm just bad at it but I always wonder if I'm choosing the right one, especially since I'm still getting corner bulging on my prints 😢
I am still a relatively new maker but have come around to your train of thought. I used to fuss with benches and temp towers but now I'm doing exactly as you do. flow rate pressure advance by vendor. I am still filling my desiccant with a funnel though.😅 I use the same holders, but guess I should start printing 30 or 40 more containers in ASA as I see the logic and do get tired of picking up beads off the floor on oppsies.
Thanks for the vid. You give some examples of some of the things you look for to "react" to but you weren't very specific. Specifically, is there a set of things you look for on a new print to help you decide on potential adjustments? And when you see these things, what exactly do you do to adjust? Understand you probably can't provide a complete answer but would be interested in better understanding your approach and how you can react successfully. Appreciate any info you can share. Thanks.
I planned on making a more specific video on the future - I just didn’t have many failed prints to really show. I just look to see if a print doesn’t look right in general. The example I showed about layer time is a good one although it’s a short clip. Usually that’s solved by printing more than 1 of the thing at a time or increasing minimum layer times. Things like if your volumetric flow is too high or low you can tell pretty quick in a print when it’s doing quick moves. I check pressure advance too if I can see gapping in a corner as it’s printing I’ll stop the print and lower PA. If I see overhangs aren’t quite coming out right I’ll either drop overhang speed or increase cooling. Things like that. I do plan on making the video but I’ll have to come up with some stuff that someone might set incorrectly and correct it.
I find on cheaper filament, the temp recommendations by the manufacturer are usually very off. Last night I couldn't get a PLA to stop stringing, until I went to 205c which was 5c lower than the sticker temp.
I wish i didnt have to adjust retractions. Damn kobra 2 loves to string silks. up to 7mm at 80mms to help curb bad stringing. Thanks for the tips! This is some of the basic stuff that us newer people dont know how to approach.
Hey, have you ever had an issue with dimensions on the X1C? I received mine two weeks ago and did some printing with it. Works fine so far. But when it comes to parts which are supposed to be within given dimensions the printer does not perform at all. I calibrated flow and dynamic flow, which improved on the Z measurement. (it is basicalle spot on now - around 0,05mm off max.) But the parts are smaller in X and Y than they should be. With X being even smaller than Y. I tried to use the XY compensation, but this only helps for a given size of part. If the next part is bigger the deviation from the actual measurement is even more off. (Comparing for example an 20x20x20 object to an 100x100x10 object.) The 20x20x20 part is quite nice at around 19,98 to 20,04mm. Very good in my mind. But if I print the 100x100x10 object it is 99,88 on one of the sides (meh. acceptable) and 99,73 on the other side. (not acceptable for a machine at this pricepoint) So the issue seems to scale with the dimension of the part. Looks like the Steps/mm could be off? Also another "fun" fact: If I print my 20x20x20 object with XY compensation to a nice fit, but put a cirular feature on top (18mm diameter outside, 10mm diameter inside, 10mm height) the following happens. The outside is way off with 17,85 instead of 18mm The Inside is bang on at 9,96 to 10,03 But the 20x20 is still within a couple of 0,0Xmm I tried high resolution STEP and STL files, too. No change. It just seems super sketchy. With my old Anet A8 and Ender 3pro i could reach tolerances of 0,1mm at any given size. Maybe you have an idea how this issue could be solved?
Great video one comment , i have a few filaments with flow over 1, if i see Pass 2 gives me best result at 0 , i go to Pass 1 and then do the Pass 2. Also found that some times K factor first is not always ideal, So i do flow first to get good flow , then K gives me better results and some times flow again Pass 2 . Also using the tower method for K find it easier and more clear and consistent . by averaging the each corner, But that could be the old eyes and just me . A bit slower but more consistent.
It would be a lot faster that if 0 gives you best results, set your flow ratio from the beginning to 1.1 and then run pass 2. I wish they would just let you pick the steps. The steps in pass 1 are too wide to give you any real information other than if it will be higher or lower than 0.
Hello, I use bambu studio. They only have Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate in their Calibration settings. Should I download Orca just to tune the filament? Can I do all this in Bambu somewhere?
this is a great video!! really actionable, valuable advice. well done. do you ever print multi-filament with the AMS? might be interesting to talk about those settings as well (e.g. to minimise waste, etc.)
@@ButterPockets nice!! I think there's quite a bit there with setting the right amount to purge and something around the tower vs infill use for the transition. plus, on top of those settings, maybe some best practices when creating the model/ importing it, as well as some materials that go well together and some that don't. I'm sure you might have even more ideas - you've got this! 😎
@@petermarin there’s definitely some good practices to do in CAD and I can cover that for sure. I’ve learned some good ways to export models for color printing that really helps. I’ll add it to my list for sure - I’ve got a couple coming out soon and some sponsorship stuff to handle first. But I really appreciate the idea!
try just once to set the slicing tolerance and deviation to 0.0001 and see the perfect walls on ur plate. takes a tiny bit longer to slice perhaps seconds. EDIT: Remember to turn off arc :)
Have you found a good funnel for filling the desicant box's for the AMS? Is there a way to back up your profiles before updating the firmware? I loved this video, thank you so much!
With the speed that Bambu printers can print at and the more released high speed/flow filaments is there a particular reason why you do not also do a MAX flowrate test?
Great video. I'm very new to the 3D printing "thing" and I'm researching what printer to purchase. The Bambu Lab X1 Carbon seems to be the most reliable but I find it nagging that the print bed is on the small size. I wish if would be 400mm x 400mm x 400mm at least. I am looking for the versatility of being able to produce object with multiple types of filaments as well. Do you have a video that explains how to "cut" prints in separate part for assembly to create objects that are larger than the 256mm x 256mm x 256mm bed size? One of my first intended project would to create an illuminated sign with LED light strips for indoors and outdoors.
I'm new to 3D printing and have been struggling to get Overture silk filament to look good on a Bambu A1. I'm learning a lot from your videos and this this helped but I can still see lines on the top of the print. Ironing made the print a little smoother but it loses some of the detail. Any suggestions? Also, do I have to run this process again if I switch to the .02 nozzle (currently using the .04 that came with my printer). Thanks in advance, truly appreciate your content!
I would run pass 1 first, since you dont know if anything higher than 1.0 flow rate will look better. Pass 2 only shows you 0.91-1.0 flow rate. Also i think the PA tower is best for seeing the exact point that your corbers start looking like crap. I do agree on temp tower though..ive never really got useful info out of it. I just stick to 210-220 for PLA usually. Most PLA also does good with 0.4mm retraction as well so thats my default.
I rarely ever have to go over 1. And if you see that 0 isn’t enough you’d know. Pass 1 only runs large increments, I’d like it if Orca let you choose the range.
@@ButterPockets but you can choose the range with the initial value. I typically start with 1.02 and do the second pass. It seems to me that if you are getting your max or min values then it's time to tweak the scale.
Quick one, on PA calibration, you said "I know that most PLA's are 0.01 etc" for the PA Pattern. But what if you didn't know that? I'm now trying to calibrate an PETG filament, but I don't know what the ranges should be. Therefore should I just go for default? Thanks 🙂
usually use bambu PLAs on my P1S. decided to try some other branded TPUs so im looking how to make profiles right now. would all the same factors apply to TPU same as the ones in this video please. or is TPU more tricky or have a slightly different process im wondering. subscribed. thank you
Yes, manual tuning can be done on any bed. I think you can clearly see it start to gap around 0.022 and see it start to get rounder. Run the test yourself and see if it’s that way for you!
Thanks so much for this helpful video! I have a question I haven't been able to find the answer to (on Reddit): In my 3D printing setup, I have 3x X1C printers and 3x P1S printers (6 printers total). I'm wondering about calibration when using the same filament brand on all these printers. Is it necessary to calibrate each printer individually, or is it possible to apply the same calibration settings to all of them? File management becomes a nightmare if I need to save a unique profile for each printer so I'm hoping I can use the same calibration profiles across all of my printers. From my observations, the calibration results seem consistent across the printers. I'm curious for your opinion on this. Thanks in advance!
Where can i learn all these things as a beginner. I started 3d printing 3 days ago. I am missing vocabulary, concepts and termonology around 3d printing. Do you recomment a specific tutorial series or a website to dive in?
For the same filament, would I need to save a different filament profile every time I switch the hotend (let's say, go from 0.4mm to 0.6mm tip)? What about changing the plate from textured PEI to coolplate?
Thanks for this video! Since the profiles can be linked to Bambu Studio, do you go back to Bambu Studio for all your prints after tuning? Or do you just stay on orca slicer for everything after you tune?
DL orca. Seems great and able to customize much more than Bambu slicer. I followed these steps and everything came out great during the test prints. After adjusting settings I printed an item I print often for my shop and the sparse infill is like supports, they just crumble and won’t finish a print. I reversed all the settings I just adjusted and still same thing. Is there something I need to calibrate with orca first? As a test I printed from Bambu slicer and everything was fine. Any ideas?
Have you had any luck using Ironing in either Bambu Studio Slicer or Orca Slicer? I'm coming over from using Cura Slicer, and I can get excellent prints with Cura Slicer using Ironing on my Elegoo Neptune 3D printers. However, I have yet to get a consistent smooth print on my Bambu A1 printer with either Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer. I have calibrated both the filament and flow under the Calibration heading in Bambu Studio Slicer as well as setting up individual filament profiles based on my calibrations. I have also entered in the correct K Factor number for each filament based on the filament calibration. Moreover I have also adjusted my Ironing Speed and Ironing Flow. By doing all of the above I either get under or over extruded prints. At this point I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I have tried this on the following filaments - Bambu, Polymaker, and Overture. All three yield the same results. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
11:05 Where do these blobs in this "skeleton benchy" come from? Is this due to moisture within the filament? I'm quite new to 3d printing and currently struggeling with a certain filament (PETG) encountering various problems. I've seen such blobs in some of my prints, but they're not consistently all over the object but rather in certain locations of the print.
That particular print I think was due to printing insanely fast. That’s actually ABS and I printed that on a Voron. It was just a little test from a while ago.
Hi and thanks for your video one question I have now: I don't check the difference, in OrcaSlicers Device site, you are be able to set up the Dynamic Factor "K" at each Filament. But when you do the 'Presure advance' calibration, and set it up in the filaments setup page. Isn't it the same? (just valid for all - overwrite of the single filaments K-factor?). Or is it a combination? Or completely different things? (k-factor vs pressure adv.) thanks in advance
How long does it take to regenerate desiccant beads in the dehydrator you recommend, do you run it a max temp? Also share some info on printing with ASA. I have never tried it
It tells you temperature on the desiccant container it came in. Takes about 2-4 hours. Printing ASA can be super easy or tedious depending what printer you have.
@@ronmcdavid7084 use the textured plate or hot plate and glue. Make sure the door is closed. Use the generic ASA profile and see what happens. A large part of the problem with ASA is getting it to stick to the build plate. I use vision miner nano polymer to help as well.
For some reason, I was able to calibrate every filasment I tried except my roll of bambu PLA. For some reason, it failed on me twice. Also, even when I calibrated manually, I can't set the K value for the spool
I saw that you have a tuned profile for Prusament PLA Black. Is there a chance to get that profile. I love the Look of the Galaxy Black but on my P1S it comes verry Matt looking. On my old anycubic mega s it looked shiny.
In Orca Slicer where can I save a filament profile like how your showing us in your video ? Can this be done for bambu slicer also? Even though you performing these tests on Orca Slicer.
Haven't read all the comments, but I'm wondering how many picked up on the South Park reference in your thumbnail. Too damn funny. Great video as always!
Hi i'm new in 3D printing world, so sory if my question is so basic, if I use 1 brand of filament but bunch of color, should I tune each roll ? Thank you
I switched to a 0.2 and clogged it when running the tests! I’m not the best person to answer honestly, but I would assume the numbers are close but that things might need to change. I’d run a print that you know how it should turn out and see how it looks. If corners look weird, the seam looks bad, or the top surface is gross I’d adjust from there!
Nice storage rack! Thinking of moving my set up to something like that. Do you have a link or website where you got yours? Looks like that one is all one side beam (not 2 pieces so possibly sturdier)
It does matter and from the people I’ve talked to you should do PA first. It controls when you extrusion starts when making the passes on the top layer. Controlling that first lets you dial in your extrusion multiplier
Does this method work for TPU and Bambu printers like the P1S or P1P? Does this only when using Orca Slicer or is that functionality in the Bambu Studio version also?
I do that for all PLA. I never use the aux or chamber fan. The aux fan is just too much cooling in my opinion and makes the left side get cooler faster than the right side.
will you provide your filament profiles? Big user of Prusament filament and just got my Bambu X1C and would love to just download and setup for Prusament PLA and Prusament PETG
Unfortunately it doesn’t work like that. Every roll/printer will be different. You’ll find tho that a k value of around 0.02 and an EM of around 0.98 is a good starting point.
It could be that the specific roll has a QC issue. I would dry it and then run EM tests on it separately and see if potentially it’s overall thicker or thinner causing the EM to be different. Usually wavy pattern though are a belt issue.
Color isn’t really going to change layer lines. Lighter colors are always going to show them more. The only way to fully get rid of them is 0.1 or less layer heights
Thx, great video, again! I used to print a lot with prusament on my mk3, but when I use prusament on my x1c print time is a lot slower due to max.volumetric speed of the generic pla profile, I assume. How do you tune this for your bambulab with prusament?
I set it at 19mm3/s and print at 220C. I’ve had no problems with it keeping up. You can try running a max volumetric flow test in orca slicer or try bumping up 5-10C in hotend temp.
