I'm Jakob (AKA Butter Pockets) and I'm creating videos on 3D printing and any other kind of tinkering I can get my hands on. You'll see the latest 3D printers, tutorials on CAD/Fusion360, and other fun projects so hopefully you (and I) can learn and make new stuff!
linktr.ee/butterpockets
(So you know how waffles have little holes and when you spread butter on it kinda fills the holes? ... well those are butter pockets!)
Got a problem with oozing: when the filament change starts the nozzle is right above the print. The filament then gets pushed out. This drops off onto the print. How to bypass that?
I bought an A1 combo and I am awaiting for delivery...Meanwhile, I see a lot of video's about poop, but not like yours...you have found a real solution as far as I can see as a beginner...Any thoughts in what to do/ change when I receive my A1 combo printer? Thanks @Butter Pockets Prints!
Hi, first excellent details, very well done. I’m looking for a probe for printing in an enclosed space with ambient temperature around 60-70 with a wham bam magnetic plate with a pex spring steel on top. Do you know if the eddy probe would work with my setup. Thanks for your time and great video. I will surely check out your other videos.
Hi i was able to follow you until i got to "sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0" portion, i get a message saying that that file doesnt exist and i dont know how to continue from there, any help?
🤣 Trimmer line! 🤌Thanks for the tips. I have been looking for something practical. I have a background in offset printing, so the concept of profiling and calibrating by manufacture, color, or type is not new to me. Makes sense that it would apply to 3D printing as well.
I've owned my first printer for about 6 months now which is a N4Pro. It runs almost 24/7 so I decided to add a second printer and ordered a A1 with the AMS. It is scheduled to be delivered today. I feel that I really got the hang of tuning the Neptune, and got it working pretty reliable, but getting tired of the constant attention it requires. This is why I decided to get the A1 plus now I can print in four colors. I know this is just the start and I will be adding more in the not so distant future.
As I usually fill up my print bed to save time the stop part of the print option could save a lot of time and filament(and headache), cannot find this option on the P1S unfortunately, starting to wish I had gone for the Carbon instead of the P1S. I started with Bambu Studio but recently changed to Orca Slicer and feel its better as you have more manual tuning options that bambu studio tries to make it automatic.
The inconsistent extrusion that I have on my MK3S+ is getting me Crazy and sometimes is worse depending on which PLA Brand I use, and funnily enough I get much better-looking prints with PETG than PLA, it's like I have banding issues but I checked everything a zillion Times and everything is solid it's that crazy inconsistent extrusion that is driving me Nuts!
I was thinking... naaah I dont need no silly gantry mounting hooks, but when you made that comment about nerds having no friends (14:00) I pissed myself laughing, and promptly decided to print some. Thanks for the awesome and CONCISE video dude :) You are a ninja!
Hello, thank you for the great video. I have a Proforge 4 with 4 printheads. Here each individual print head is adjusted using its own process. How does the Z offset work? Everyone has their own configuration so that they all work together? Thanks and greetings Markus
This will continuously put goopy filament in your hot end that is half cold. It won't do much to reliability so this is worth a look but it WILL take a hit in the reliability category for sure.
Thanks a lot for the video! I've been using this method to calibrate my filaments but I wish you would have spent more time explaining how to properly choose the "sharpest corner" and the best too surface. Maybe I'm just bad at it but I always wonder if I'm choosing the right one, especially since I'm still getting corner bulging on my prints 😢
So, i'm using Orca with a X1C. I can't find the "long retract on cut" anywhere in the Slicer, but when looking into the GCode for Filament Change, they already account for it. {if long_retractions_when_cut[previous_extruder]} M620.11 S1 I[previous_extruder] E-{retraction_distances_when_cut[previous_extruder]} F{old_filament_e_feedrate} {else} M620.11 S0 {endif} Where then can we toggle the variable long_retractions_when_cut??? Since it is already somehow in there, i would prefer to use the slicer variable rather then adapting the code.
I’d have a second look at your probe start macro. It’s my understanding that if you call a second “probe” command without moving the tool head it will error. Are you running two consecutive “probe” commands without moving the tool head?
usually use bambu PLAs on my P1S. decided to try some other branded TPUs so im looking how to make profiles right now. would all the same factors apply to TPU same as the ones in this video please. or is TPU more tricky or have a slightly different process im wondering. subscribed. thank you
Hello, I have manta m8p and followed your flashing tutorial and also many other, but none of them have the /dev/serial folder needed for the mcu, could you help?
Don't really like the fact that it wastes a consumable every time you splice up something, it's a deal breaker for me. I usually splice my filament up by hand with a lighter, fixing the edges with a knife. Never seen a visible seam when it changes color.
Damn Sunlu are really trying to push this thing via youtubers atm. It's a product that doesn't really solve anything. Printers have had filament runout detection for YEARS now, just swap the roll when it runs out! This device is just... pointless. You have to take time to splice filament. And then there are consumables you have to purchase.
Unless you take into account that the filament is going to run out, it could ruin the print if you do that. You’d need a prime tower and at least some amount of consideration. A BL printer would probably handle that a bit better by being able to purge during the switch. Just using filament runout isn’t a perfect solution either. A small commission on a link I don’t even have doesn’t make me tout something that’s “pointless”. It does have a point, it just might not suit you. I think it’s worth at least showing off for people to decide if it can help them.
Can you make a video where you make your own silk pla? Basically connect 4 inch long bits of PLA from different colors together long enough to make a 200g ish spool? That would be cool
As long as the magnets holding the bed down is a big sheet and not little individual magnets and the actual bed itself has metal inside it (easy to know if it does if it’s magnetic) then you’re good.
Those end of rolls leftovers can always be used in a 3d pen for fixes - or inside seams in helmets or things like that. They run about 20 to 30 bucks too and I have totally finished off a bunch of rolls just using them in my pen for props and stuff.
this was super helpful. thank you. is that everything I have to consider when setting up a TPU filament profile? i expected it to be a lot more difficult and time consuming. I want to try a few different TPU brands on my P1S. i haven't been printing very long. I think I'll give Orcaslicer a go. keep getting the impression its a decent option from people on youtube
It’s very straight forward, the same steps apply to any type of filament. I like Orca slicer specifically for Bambulab printers. It’s basically Bambu Studio with more options, and who doesn’t like more options?
Are you an engineer? You seem like you are in regard how you think about/approach things, at least the impression I get lines up very similar to other engineers I know. Like thinking of using the vase mode for the test so show if there is a any detectable difference to the split cut/join. That's not something I have seen others doing in any of the other various reviews of this product, as they are just like "hey it worked" with no further deeper look". It was driving me crazy no one looked deeper than the superficial until your video. I know it would be really tough to do, but it would be interesting to see if you can see the split by joining two strands of the same color, because the color switch might make it hard to see the potential effect of the join. That's just me being super "derailed oriented" (I can't say the 4 letter word that starts with A and ends with L that used to say in place of that, because I am told it is offensive to some people 🙂). I make sure I tell others who geek out on the little details to check your video out as you were the first to promote Leon Fisher Skipper's G-code, and I think your efforts played a part in getting it noticed and finally incorporated by Bambu Lab in Bambu Studio. I know I have been using it since I saw your video and I haven't really had any issues with it but saved a lot of plastic. BTW have you ever explained the origin of the phrase "Butter Pockets"? I get the phrase "buttery smooth", but the pockets part I'm still a be ? about. Just a thought for a future video. Keep up the great work and videos!
I am an engineer haha, I think I’ve mentioned it a couple times in videos. I’m a practicing electrical engineer. Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. I always try to put the stuff I review to some kind of use rather than just show it. The explanation for “butter pockets” is actually in the description for my channel and I left it as kind of an “Easter egg” which you happen to be the first person to ever ask haha, I’ll paste it here: “so you know how waffles have little holes and when you spread butter on it kinda fills the holes? …. Well those are butter pockets!”. Kind of became a joke with my friend group and it became my discord name and when I started my channel we decided let’s run with it. Helps to explain the logo too
@@ButterPockets It's been a while since I saw one of your videos pop up, so I don't doubt you said you were an engineer a number of times and I just forgot. Glad to hear we are of the same cloth even if we are different fabric (I hope that made sense) as I am an IT Engineer. It's funny - Before asking I looked on your channel using the RU-vid app on my Fire Cube, and the description trails off at "You'll see the latest 3D printer, tutorials". It didn't occur to me that it chopped off the rest with no indication it did so or ability to see the rest. Amazon versions of apps like RU-vid do have their own quirks, so it's good to know of one more and to check my computer first next time. 🙂 If you are working on an affiliate link, I will hold off on buying one for now as there is no rush with the AMS ability to switch roles (I would rather not waste a slot on an almost finished roll if I can help it though which is why this cheap solution looks good to me).
@ButterPockets you have had the MK4 for over a year now, how does it stack up compared to MK3S & X1? Guys running a print farm with MK4 & X1 swear by the MK4 due to wasted filament and X1 down time with maintenance concerns. They run XL for colour change. Interested in your thoughts?
I think it’s a night and day difference over the MK3. Although for a print farm that could be a different story because the MK3 is slow but it’s reliable. Compared to the X1, uhm, I mean it’s hard for me to really like “compare” them. I use both of them just about every day. If I want to print something *right now* I use the MK4. From clicking “print” to it starting is significantly faster with the MK4 and I know it will print it and complete the print. The X1 tho, I mean I have 2 AMS units and I need that color change ability for stuff I sell. I wish I had an XL and could try that out. I don’t know if I can speak from a print farm perspective but if I was going to start one I definitely wouldn’t do it with bambulab printers. I’m not exactly a “ermagerd Chinese printers blah blah” (I am part Chinese, not sure if I’ve said that publicly) but it is a legit concern for a business. I know there is LAN only mode and maybe if the printers just never touched the internet it would be okay. But have you ever seen what it takes to replace the gantry in an X1? That’s a nightmare. I also really don’t believe the X1 is as well engineered as it seems, there was some really questionable choices in that machine. But, from a hobbyist point of view I’m not sure any of that matters. My friend and I are about to start on our own printer design - that’s the path that makes the most sense for us if we want a farm. So my answer is just “it depends” I guess? I don’t like to think in black and white terms because everything is grey IMO. But I’ve always believe much more in Prusa over BL, even if people call me a “fan boy” over that. Ultimately Prusa seems like a better company, a more reliable printer, easier to work on, etc. But it’s “slower” (not really), smaller, less flashy, etc. Hope that helps? Haha. I feel like a just rambled. The thing is too, that was my answer a year ago and it hasn’t really changed. The market is flooded with new users now because of BL and the general advancements in 3D printing. There’s more off the shelf printers now than ever and people can get into the space so easily. Prusa is always gonna be the Honda/Toyota of the market if you will - ask a car mechanic “what’s the most reliable brand” and they will probably say Honda/Toyota.
Thank you for this video. Thanks to you I managed to bring life to my Formbot Voron 2.4Pro+. Right now I'm doing the initial setup, but I'm getting stuck testing the end stops. The y-end stop works as expected, but the x-end stop and the z-end stop (tap) return the value triggered. That's understandable, because I don't know how and where to configure both. Can you point me in the right direction? Is it possible to get your config files so I can see how it should be done?
@@ButterPockets Thank you. In the meantime I got the end stops and all engines working as they should. In the endstop_pin line I first forgot the reference to 'EBBCan'... So now I'm a bit further along, but I'm stuck at the PROBE_CALIBRATE again. On the GitHub website I read that I had to do it manually, but it's not clear to me how...
In the latest kit, they provide proper part for A drive, with mount for Y stopper, but you have to install it BEFORE assembling A drive. Otherwise you will have to disassemble and assemble it again and redo belts. Formbot is a nice kit, but instructions are awful.
I recently tried Cura instead of Prusaslicer, and noted a huge improvement on the surface texture and reduced stringing. My printer is a SV06 Plus, which I believe borrows heavily from Prusa MK3. Might be worth a try.
I was going to say, 'bummer there is no CAN version'. But it looks like one is coming soon. It would be nice to keep the wiring clean since going through changing over to CAN.
Well funnily enough they just announced an SB2209 USB version like yesterday, which I’ll have to try out soon. Looks like we will be able to pick USB or CAN at some point.
@@williamanthony7224 there’s no maybe, what you just said is correct. It’s robust and used in the automotive industry. It might be more “difficult” to setup, but it’s a robust and tested method. USB is certainly easier, but that doesn’t always make it “better”. USB is much more susceptible to electrical interference, especially from motors that aren’t so great. This is different than say a computer and CAN is almost certainly the objectively better choice. Although, like I said, I’ll probably go USB just to simplify the eddy wiring.
Eddy USB is just better than the coil version, but it’s personal preference. Coil can’t be used as an end stop and doesn’t have thermal compensation. But if you have an EBB36 it might be more convenient to use the coil version.
