In this video I show you how I put an outboard motor on my Vega Sport 406 Speed Boat. donations via paypal: myfirstboat2020@gmail.com buy us a coffee: ko-fi.com/myfirstboat
The small speed boad looks like it will star as a cartoon movie hero who races against the big boy speed boats but will miraculously win because of its inventive owner
Lovely little boat. When you come to address the engine mount on the transom, I would like to see you address the hole you cut to turn the notor fully left. Maybe make it a little larger abd line it to become a socket / pocket rather than a hole.
We live next to Lake Ontario in New York. My father in law had a small boat like that, not exactly the same, but close. We drove it from the boat launch to their house on the lake one time, and when we pulled in and parked, it promptly sank straight to the bottom. Why? The transom split wide open because there was no transom board supporting and strengthening it. The failure started with the same crack along the top of the transom, but soon the bottom of the transom split from side to side. The weight of the engine caused the split to open wide when we stopped. Moral of the story, reinforce the transom.
Saw someone mention earlier in the comments to "bolt it to the transom" and someone else mentioned that they had seen larger motors than than that fall off. I agree with them, when you can get it out of the water, drill holes thru the transom, stuff the holes with marine silicone and bolt it down with SST bolts & nylock nuts. Good job on the boat build & have fun...
Well done. What a fun rig. A simple jack plate whether homemade or from a manufacturer would solve your tilt/adjustments. Love your channel man. Great work.
You can reduce the travel required to move the engine from full port to full starboard by drilling a hole in the short engine tiller arm and moving the connecting link closer to the engine. That way the steering mechanism wouldn’t need to penetrate the grp. Great videos - have watched every one from the beginning.
Nice Little set up Verry neat , I had a Boat like that it had a 85 evenrude on it , I brought it for a few hudred bucks cos it had a Stuck piston rings , Rebult it was as good as New
You supposed to used the helm control to start and kill the motor. The cables should have a lope in them. There’s a pin that will allow you to trim the motor to the right angle
Nice work m8, fix the crack, adjust the motor, and clean that bit of rust up on the camper boat. Excellent job! Thank you, you and yours stay safe and well.
Greetings from southern Ontario Canada I really enjoyed the video I currently have two sea flees both are cedar and fiberglass constructed both with vintage outboard motors 15hp and 9.9hp from 1965&1975, when in reverse the motor should not lift or look jerky and you pointed out that in the video a definitely much needed correction
I would like to suggest that you take the branding off the motor. Maybe even paint it a different colour with a customised logo to discourage theft. I have seen it done on other boating channels.
Pretty cool little boat. Sucks not having trim and I would definitely get that kill switch moved to the throttle housing when possible. Also, if possible, bring your clamps together and use a lock to keep them together. After a while they could start to become loose and next thing you know, your paddling plus it keeps people from stealing your motor. That little eye lit on the right side of the motor down by the clamp isn't for looks. That's for your safety chain so your gonna want to drill a hole somewhere or find an existing one and put an eye bolt through. then attach a chain to that eye so if you do lose the motor, it doesn't belong to davy jones' locker.
Great little boat. I would suggest where you cut out for the steering access, to cut it out in a circle as that will prevent the gel coat and fiberglass from cracking from stress. You can also put a decorative ring around the hole you drilled.
Looks amazing. I love it. My knowledge goes as far as seeing that ur engine seems sit too low . The angle it's okaysh. Bigger sports boats use than angle to help with cornering . But with ur short distances is indeed better to have it straight. Height and angle makes allot of difference in fuel consumption as well
You are a patient, gentle and sexy young man. The smaller the boat, the more fun you have with it. That's just the way it is. 15 hp is just the correct size for that boat.
I think you should have looked around marketplace or craigslist for a two stroke 25. I bet you could have one for not a lot more than the conversion kit. the 4 stroke 15 is going to have trouble planing that boat with two people, let alone four. The trim is an easy fix, just pop out the trim pin and move it up one hole. I think you also should have drilled that crack out to stop it from spreading and put down three or four layers of mat of different sizes. Each one about 1" (25 mm) larger than the mat under it.
I like that you admit without any ego to being a newby , So many people call themselves "boaters" without knowing anything.With that being said, You have a lot of abillities and skills , You're defenitly boater material. Just need a little finetuning which will come naturaly as time passes by...
Looking good! I still think you should make it your speed dingy. Maybe paint it like speed racer. I look forward to watching you fix the transom and the other issues.
That was awesome! I love your boat! Too bad you had to cut a hole for the steering rods. Could you maybe just have shortened them ? Also, I think there's a way to polish your windshield if it's made of plexiglass. A video of you making it cristal clear would be awesome!
I’m glad the throttle assembly is close to the flux capacitor. What I’d like to see in the next video is where you’re going to mount the “Mr Reactor” and what type of banana peal storage you plan to use.
chooch a frigsaker into it about 4" with a hole saw and put a bellows into it.... that'll give your steering link the room to hoot the whistler and it will be much more pretty
You need a safety chain on your motor, you may have one but I didn't see one. If you hit something in the water you could loose your motor, its unbelievable how much you have done great work.
I would suggest to add a maintenance stand (plate :p) to the floating platform where you can mount the engine to work on it without fear of dropping stuff into the water ... maybe make the plate server as a cover for now gaping hole or just as a seat for the pilot to steer or what ever you like .... after all you will not maintain that outboard engine often but i bet it would come in handy to be able to mount it there when you need to
You should check the transom of the boat to see if there are any rot there, just saw that last video you did on this to, and the craks in the floor migth not look as bad, but there are usual some wood stringers under the floor. big chanse they are rotten or have started to rot if water got in there, its an old boat
You may want to check the propeller pitch. The motor shall be equipped with a high trust propeller if it was properly adapted to the platform. If it is the case, the high thrust ( low pitch ) propeller is not optimal for a light speed boat. Keep posting.
Exactly. If that motor was propped to push that barge, it definitely needs more pitch for this little boat. Plus transom reinforcement and motor height determined before bolting. That tiny cross-shaped hole to allow movement of the steering arm is ill-advised. I can picture the end of the steering push rod getting trapped in that hole, locking the helm hard over. Just enlarge it and place a flanged cup-shaped well in the sidewall for plenty of clearance. Get all the engine controls/kill switch up to the pilot station.
I have watched all your vids and love to see more of ur work I can't say else then fantastic done effen I self would had done few things dif but u very wise and do most alone that's also smart u can keep the honor to urself it really looking good and the way u do work on it can't say else that really as it should lot boat owners just buy for only fun and ask jackpot while inside stil the year 0 I can see it a Dutch boat anyway u really can once complete done show what u all done because it really well done keep this up I looking forward see u complete done and float whit massive smile from ear to ear and think to urself I done it again u bit**** lol anyway love it
I can see the value of a small, quick craft with minimal storage to get you to and from your main house boat as a regular mode of transport. Especially while the main houseboat is semi-permanently moored in the same spot. It is a shame that that lovely big dock/boat that gave you such a great platform for much of your work has no power/mobility now though.
Ha, rotten transom. But, good job. I had one slightly bigger that I stuffed a 250hp inboard/out drive Volvo Penta 280 out drive. It was Wa freakin rocket. Topped out at 82 mph.
Ich hatte richtig Angst dass bei dir so einige Schrauben und Rollen ins Wasser fallen. Du hättest den Schacht um den Motor erstmal mit einer Plane zubinden oder abdichten müssen. Bei mir wären so einige Teile ins Wasser gefallen.
if you have to work over the outboard pit again.. be sure to wrap a piece of cloth around the opening and clamp it in place to stop pieces from falling in.. think of the picking machines that shake fruit and nuts from trees..
Personally I don’t like speedboats but I guess that has to do with my age. It’s nice to see that you’re a handy guy but you already showed that with the big boat as how you call that boat yourself. Härtzliche Grüssen aus die Niederlände
So very very brave of you to perform the whole process over water! I assume that you realise that if you had dropped the flux capacitor in the water you would have torn a hole in space and time! Rather a rookie mistake I thought!😉 Nice manoeuvring Sir. 👍
You can adjust the trim with the bar that go's across behind the mounting bracket? There are holes to where you can move it? Right?. Not adjustable while driving, but it may help you?
Way too much strain on throttle and shift cables, they are at least a foot too short. The engine do not have to be perpendicular to the water. The trim has to be set for bow height. If set too far back the bow will ride too high, and too low if tucked in too much. without electric trim, all you can do is move the pin out to give the best ride. . Also, with the boat out of the water , you need to set the engine height before drilling holes to mount motor. Do not move the shifter slowly into or out of gear, move it rapidly or you will damage the gears in lower unit. there is no clutch in most outboards so they must be rapidly engaged to avoid damage
@@brian.7966hehehe Are you implying that the steering and shift cables are not too short and the binding on the cables in lock to lock turning is normal? Look at the boat sitting on the water , then position the motor upright as he shows in the vid. What do you think will happen to the bow when he gives it full throttle. As it sits now , all he has to do is move the trim pin out one or two holes to give a better ride height. As for moving the shifter rapidly when going in and out of gear, when shifting slowly you will get gear grinding(there is no clutch), hehehe, moving rapidly avoids that. But thats ok carry on doing as he is doing, the marine shops need the business. Our shop is swamped with work from people listening to bad info on RU-vid. The reason he had to cut a hole in the transom coaming is because he ordered the wrong cable. But could have been solved by either shortening the tiller arm connection (drill a hole closer to motor, basic geometry of levers) or ordering the kit that give a shorter lock to lock throw.
When you are doing those fiberglass patches at the minimum you should agitate the surfaces where the epoxy will be applied with rough sandpaper to get a better bond. However I would still not recommend applying the new fiberglass over painted surfaces but sand it all the way through to the base material to get a bond that lasts. Also apply at least 2 layers of fiberglass, 1 is not enough and can easily crack.
Darling im not sure if you're using a leisure battery for a starter but if you are then please get a proper engine starter. Leisures do not like the cranking draw from engines. Nor do they have the capacity to do so. If your interested look into how the plates in batteries are manufactured so you learn the difference. It would be huge waste to kill a beautiful firefly leisure with this application. Ive been to many ppl in the past where i had to swap dead leisures bc ppl thought a battery is a battery. They manufacture agm starters too a good brand is Leoch or Exceed that i use on a daily basis. Lovely install, so happy that you haven't dropped the outboard.
Engine trim is not that simple and greatly effects boat trim, differently at different speeds, which is why fancier outboards have power trim controlled from the dashboard. You want to use trim and ballast together, the main controllable ballast being your battery and fuel tank, as well as passengers and other gear and cargo. At medium speeds, you will notice that planing boats will trim bow up due to the bow wave at such speeds, you can compensate for this, when you want to travel at medium speeds, by moving ballast forward and trimming the engine down, like it is now. However, If you want to travel either at low or high speeds, this is not so much the case; though for low speeds, you might still want to move the battery and fuel under the rear seat if it will fit, rather than behind it, in order to make the ends light, because light ends bob up and down with the waves more easily, which keeps waves from breaking over them. Of course engine trim has less effect at low speeds and thrust might be a bit more efficient if pointed straight back and boat trim controlled with weight, as your first instinct suggests. Anyway, with these simple little outboards, one gets used to stopping and leaning over the rear to move the trim pin quickly when planning to travel at different speeds with different loads.
