My Triumph TR6 Died This Morning! Here's How I Fixed It 

I'm just delighted to be helpful! TR6s are well within my wheelhouse, so consider joining as a Midwest Motoring member!

Thanks very much! I'll work to keep making them for you. I'm just glad they help!

The TR6 is still an underrated sports car. It's in the sweet spot where you can drive it every day if you wanted to. It's comfortable enough to use, practical enough for grocery runs, still turns heads, but doesn't break the bank. It's a shame Triumph isn't still around.

You didn't see the unedited version... I've done my fair share of selectively choosing words in the garage....

Thanks! 👍

Most of our cars have received a FAST ignition (used to be the Crane XR-700--same product, new company) at this point. You're right about the reliability!

I'm glad these videos are helping. Thanks for the comment--and for subscribing!

Excellent point! Get it? Point! Anyway, you're also right that the condensor should always be replaced at the same time since it's often the reason for the points failing.

I mean, in reality, an electronic ignition would have gone a long way. I'm a glutton for punishment though....

I wouldn't recommend that. You'd need to turn the wheel with enough force to spin the engine. Jacking up a wheel just makes that more dangerous and less convenient.

I can try. A lot of things can cause loud popping sounds, most of them ignition related. Just because you have spark doesn't mean it's happening at the right time, so I'd start there. Maybe the points are worn, or possibly the fuel pressure isn't high enough. Sometimes from sitting (even just over the winter) the fuel can gum up in the carburetors and will cause what you're describing. Anyway, you need to check everything in detail. Just having gas and having spark isn't enough. You need the right amount of spark at the right time with the right amount of fuel distributed to the right cylinders with the right amount of valve clearance.... you get the idea. Here's your list: 1) Set the points with a feeler gauge. 2) set your rocker clearances. 3) clean and lubricate the distributor. 4) static time the ignition. 5) check fuel pressure with a gauge. 6) pull the carburetors and clean out any varnish, then re-set the float height, replace the needle valves, make sure the jets are clear, make sure the diaphragms aren't torn, set the needle height, and re-test. If it still won't start, you've missed something and need to go back and test everything again. I'd also check compression early on. You need to know you're getting enough compression or the engine won't fire. Good luck!

Not that hard to reach: But....find a way to cap the fuel line (bolt inserted into flexible fuel line) just above the fuel filter to limit the amount of gas that flows while you swap out the pump.

@@allanmarkby4177 Thanks Allan what I'm referring to is the air pump mechanism that's right in front of the fuel pump. that came on all 75 - 76 TR6 models. I did manage to squeeze by and replace the fuel pump with all that crap in the way...

The air pump does get in the way on TR6s. I guess it's a sign of the times. Working on a newer car is an exercise in pulling parts off to get access to everything.

Oh, and the only time my TR6 quit on me..I forgot to tighten the battery iso knob. It wasn't hardly loose, so it started and drove, but when I turned right it would quit. That was the first week of ownership LOL.

Hi John! I installed a new one, but I've kept the original to rebuild. The replacement was a cheap reproduction I already had on hand so I don't fully trust it.

@@midwestmotoring Yeah, I have a nice looking repro myself but it's only for if the original craps out. I've heard the strainer in the new ones is bad.

@@jamcdona I've not heard that but with a good filter in place it shouldn't matter. I do know that the actuator am on the back is very cheaply made on some pumps. You can get a pretty good quality reproduction pump if you look around.

Thanks, that's the wife's. She was a Mini fan long before she met me. :)

This is a silly question, but have you tried adding fuel? If it's been sitting with low fuel, some of it probably evaporated. Even adding a little from a can may not be enough, so I'd try adding more. You may also find you have a leak. As for priming, it depends on what car and what fuel pump. Healey 3000s have an electric pump, for example, while a TR6 will have a mechanical one with a priming lever on the pump body (assuming the original style pump). Unfortunately, everything being "brand new" a decade ago doesn't count for much. Components go bad from sitting much faster than they do from being used. Tires are a prime example. If they're 10 years old, they should be thrown away regardless of what they look like. You may need to replace some stuff that appears to be in great shape,. but try adding fuel first.

@@midwestmotoring my wording was horrible I apologize haha, I was looking for if there was a way to prime it. I ordered a new fuel pump but I found the lever prime gonna try again today to get it running. Thanks man!

I got it running man! Got a video up on my page! Thanks for your videos and your help!

The car dying when it warms up can be a whole host of issues, but often deals with fuel mixture. You could have a vacuum leak, or your fuel pump might have an issue, or trouble with your throttle linkage, or even a compression issue. I'm afraid you're going to have to do some investigating and check out the engine and all systems both when the car is cold as well as warm. It could be as simple as a bad carb adjustment or as hard to find as a crack in the block that only opens when things heat up.

Thanks I’ll keep you posted

I've heard the PI systems were... problematic at times. That said, if properly maintained I'm sure they were a hoot to drive!

Now if it could only rain and get the salt off of the roads....

Sorry for the delay--got busy at the office. Unfortunately it can be a bunch of things. I'd want to know if it used to run better and then changed, or if it's always backfired. If it used to run well recently, I'd suspect points are not adjusted properly. Good luck!

Thanks!

The MX5 is a truly excellent car, and definitely keeps the spirit of British roadsters alive. To me, it's like owning a mechanical watch. Sure, quartz is better in every way. It really doesn't require servicing and it's much more accurate. Still... you don't get that sweeping second hand and cool gear train to look at.

Ha! If BL weren't so backwards, they may have actually tried that. Lighter, more powerful, and probably would have fit with minor tweaks. At least the Rover V8 would have been an upgrade (technically a Buick powerplant). Oh well--I still love the sound of a nice straight 6!

That's more a product of the time frame than the country. In its day, the TR6 engine was pretty reliable, and compared well to Mazda and Ford engines at the time. I'll probably be skewered for saying this, but even the Jaguar V12 and Triumph TR7 engines were good--they were just often only half bolted together by someone on strike and fell apart from poor maintenance. Anyway, no question any modern engine is technically better, but you lose the character of the car. The best way to install a Mazda engine in a British car is to buy one that comes with the rest of the Miata around it.

Can you put a TR6 body on a Mazda Mx 5?

@@bernardturner8103 sadly not. I'll have to concede that point.

But then you don't have a British car.

My Tr6 is slowly becoming Japanese. Nissan rear end, Toyota tranny, Datsun carbs. Steering wheel, shifter knob, ebrake handle Etc. Getting a rising sun decal for it. Lol