Its good to have a routine for vehicle inspections. I always start with recommend services at All data or Mitchell. I also start from the bottom of the vehicle and work my way up. Knock off the drain plug let that drain while I check brakes and suspension. Then lower the vehicle half way to do tire rotation. Then bring the vehicle all the way down to check underhood and lights. There is no wrong way to start. Just stay consistent. Great Video. Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
Always looking for a better way myself too. But I do like to look at fluid levels first before looking at undercar in case I need to look for those leaks if needed.
As long as every fluid gets checked, apart from diffs..... You're ok. Then shake every wheel and check brakes. Shops don't want to prevent problems, so they don't sell electrical cleaning packages for harnesses and ground bolts...... But I would sell customers on that.
That’s inefficient, you should check under the hood before you raise the vehicle, that way when it’s up in the air and the drain plug is out you can send the estimate to the advisor while you’re working. The way you’re doing it the oil change is done before you even send the estimate back. They should be selling any additional work while you’re draining oil
Always funny to hear different terminology from US to Australia Top off = Top up Oil pan = sump Trunk= Boot Hood= bonnet Lug nut= wheel nuts Standard trans= manual .
Great video as always FRM. We use tablets in our shop with built in inspection sheets, alldata, identifix, and camera capability to note severity of pretty much every component on vehicles that come through the door. Also enjoyed the unmentioned visual tip about the kneepad usage when setting the hoist. Nothing worse than cold concrete on old knees.
Yup yup, good inspection right here. I hope some of the younger/newer Tech's are taking notes. I've only got 12 years experience under my belt as a Technician, but learn new things every day. My question to you is. What's the difference between a technician and a mechanic?? 😉😉
I’ve been at one shop where the tech would get .5hr for a 16-20 point inspection if done right, the shop never lost money, it was helpful, the techs knowing they were not losing time as well, I seen shops that could not sell a bottle of water and others that would sell you your own mail, I really enjoy watching your videos, wish I was younger to go back to a flat rate shop, at Nalley Ford/Chevrolet/Honda off Stewart ave., taught us how to set the ticket on fire to make money, there’s a lot to write up.. a good flat rate guy knows how to write a ticket to make some money.. the shop I’m at now goes by flat rate time but pays you hourly, a excavator (track hoe) Cat 349,335 or a 336 a level C PM is like 8.0hr inspection and wash time is like 6-7hrs, we work 10hrs a day but can produce 110-150% production worth production ours..but there’s times a pin not taking grease has 2.0hrs on it and you mess with it for 5hrs, it averages out to 100%+ at the end of the week
Pretty much how I go about my inspections, I do a battery test on all vehicles, which I'm sure you do, and depending on the vehicle, I also check the ball joints before I go up with a jack and big o prybar. I need to show this video to all my new general service techs in my shop. Good video. Keep em coming
Great routine Mike. I must've been blind because this is the first time I see a lift like that with both legs on one side, very convenient. This whole time I've been using regular lifts, I have to kneel down for the front, get up, go around the lift, kneel down again for the rear. What a pain! You inadvertently schooled me on lifts 🤣 thanks!
Super Mario Diagnostics at work we have both Asymmetrical lifts 3 out of 4 to be exact. Mine happens to be a Symmetrical lift with the rubber adjustable pads. Sometimes one is better than the other. The symmetrical one i use is good for short wheel bas and Low exotic cars.
Great video as always. If you are looking for more video ideas, a suggestion would be on proper lift safety. If you have any tips and tricks you have seen or use to bring the car between the posts straight or the best way to set the lift pads.
before I leave the parking lot, I like to go through all the interior, i.e. window operation, tow haul switch, mirror operation, traction control switch, eco switch, power seat functions and so on, and during the test drive4wd operation and for any noise difference between 2wd and 4wd and cruise control operation, I'm curious on your thoughts about car seats
Missed the horn LOL similar to our MOT test over here in the UK, but we also do a brake test on rollers and emissions test Our MOT test is compulsory every year after the first 3 years from new
How long does it take you to do the routine inspection regardless of the reason why the vehicle arrives at the workshop? I ask because in workshops where I had worked before, the manager said that the routine inspection and review of any vehicle system, whether suspension, brakes, air conditioning, etc. should be done in 10 minutes maximum. A diagnosis with the scanner no more than 30 minutes. I do not think this is possible to do all the time in all the vehicles.
A basic inspection should take 10-20 minutes but a more through inspection, I.E. multi issues on a car will take longer. a standard CEL diag on average should take about 30 minutes, BUT add multiple codes/systems, evap smoke test etc can greatly increase times, so you are not wrong
If the advisor is doing their job correctly the customer should be aware that we preform a general check over on every vehicle. This helps for two reasons it helps avoid the situation you mentioned as well makes it easier to sell anything else you find.
I've been "talked to" about this because the customer complained I was under the hood when all they wanted was brakes checked... well sorry for being thorough and making sure you car is ok and safe to drive. O well what you gonna do... brush it off that's what move on and make money.
Ivan C , Excellent Video! Sorry for chiming in, I would appreciate your opinion. Have you researched - Saankramer Complete Details System (google it)? It is a great one of a kind product for learning how to check vehicle history minus the hard work. Ive heard some great things about it and my good mate called Gray finally got great success with it.
At the dealership, we have all the recommended parts on hand, i.e. oil filters, cabin air filters, air filters, etc... What happens at an independent shop when you have customers who approve all the recommendations and the parts are not on hand?
I have a question and I cant seem to find a solid answer and was wondering what your thoughts were? Brake caliper slider pins that have the little rubber bushing on the tip of the slider pin (usually go in the upper anchor bracket hole), what is the purpose of this rubber bushing? I have always found that the pin with the rubber bushing is almost 100% seized and causes un-even brake pad wear. I have replaced the bushings with new on some application and it seems that the slider pins are so tight and do not slide well even with the new hardware and proper lubrication. I have just plain removed them on some vehicles to achieve a better slider pin/caliper feel. What's your thoughts on this? thanks Chris in Canada
I’m just gonna assume most brands have this but even my $200 bmw programmed scanner can tell the car to turn on the brake lights or reverse lights without being in gear.
If the brake light switch was bad the BCM would turn on the lamps using the scan tool but in actual use they’d be inoperative. Plus, it would take longer to ID the vehicle and go through the menus than it would to do it manually.
Wait ,why are the doors closed? Thought you were PROTECTED? 🤔 Least I remember something like that or was it a western movie am confusing you with? Lol
Paying for a brake job, and a having a trans problem a few days later because the trans cooler had been leaking coolant into transmission would too... probably. You'd probably even be looking for an attorney to sue the guy who did the brakes blaming him for causing it or missing it.
@@autodrglen5634 You just blinded me with all that projection you just spewed all over the place. I would say that you can't be that stupid, but I'm sure that you would see that as a challenge.
@@autodrglen5634 Only if I knew that he was F'ing around with my trans and not just keeping his focus on my brakes. The FIRST thing any attorney would ask is "What part of the braking system is connected to the transmission?". If it's not asked for, don't mess with it. PERIOD
@@stans5270 Sorry Stan... been there... as the shop, its your fault for not catching when you inspected it. Had a fuel pump fail on a Yukon at 80k something miles. Wouldnt ya know it, it was a brake job. Customer drove it there, no problem. Tech did brakes and test drove, no problem. Customer pays and goes to leave, no start.... Ya'll sabatoged my car!!... we ended up replacing fuel pump for free... customers rip shops off, usually without intent. And, when you pay a proffesional to do work, you are paying for his proffesional opion on of the car is worth the repairs that you know of that it needs. If he doesn't look the rest of the car over, you arent getting your money's worth. I have caught things in the past where, due to other things they were not aware of, recomended they get rid of the car instead of wasting money on what they came in for. No matter what you go to the doctor for, they check your blood pressure, temp, and weight.
@@flatratemaster I guess there's always some variables in any statement but I think that most people can agree that toyotas in general are far more reliable than other manufacturers. Thanks for the video and reply!
While milage is a gauge of usage I think alot of highway miles are easier on cars and make the services seem like they go longer versus someone who commutes in traffic regularly. Example 30k brakes for some one who lives in the city, 65k for brakes for someone who lives in the country with no traffic
I've seen this go two ways. 1. Do your basic brake inspection thru the wheel then "sell" the customer a more detailed inspection so you are covered if wheel studs have an issue on removal. Probably best for CYA. 2. (My preference) Remove wheels and inspect caliper for free movement/push pistons ALL THE WAY IN/measure rotors. But I have been chewed out either way. Started at a new shop one time. Removed wheels and pulled a pad.Took it to SM to show him. He went thru the roof. Screamed at me. Said we didn't have permission to remove wheels and it was STUPID to remove/check caliper piston operation, etc, etc. I left. I'm too old to be screamed at. Been chewed out for NOT removing calipers and checked for proper operation. Sometimes you can't win.
Gail Taylor moral of the long story short, if you choose to be a mechanic you’re going to get screamed at by lesser skilled people higher up the ladder.
We had a guy get yelled at because he didn't measure an inner pad that you literally cannot see with the caliper on. They took it to another shop and found the inner pad nearly gone. They wanted to write the tech up for that. That's where I draw the line. I would have to be a douche about it. If you want the caliper off, make that clear. But, when you're paying the flat rate techs (I'm hourly at the moment) .6 for a LOF/Rotate with a full inspection, they're going to lose money on that somewhere. Plus what happens if the customer isn't warned it's a possibility, you pull a caliper and it's seized, and they decline the repair? Now you're definitely losing money. Rock and a hard place...
Couldnt have said it better my self. It's funny how each shop can be so different in those policies. I worked at a place where we had to pull pads out and measure every drum or rotor even if it was brand new. I dont see the point of that. If the customer did want brakes the inspection became free even though we had to put it all back together and get it off the hoist while waiting for authorization anyways. In fact at that shop there was a deep low spot in the floor by the pillar for the hoist. Water would puddle up in there (from rainwater etc dripping of vehicle) I would put old rags in the puddle of water to try and soak it up. It drove the owner nuts to see rags on the floor. It drove me nuts to deal with the puddle.
How long does it take? At my shop the yest drive alone takes 10 mins. And they are free inspections oh and free air filter and light bulb installs. I ask why should I check those things if I wonr get.paidnfor upsells on them.
Just to let you know you do not need someone all the time to check break lights and such I have the autel ms906ts scanner and it has an active testing section and there's ways to check lights while alone. I go into the body bcm then active test select the thing I'm looking for then hit the actuation button and see if they work
Nice job. Pretty similar to my procedure. I have checklist that I put together many years ago that I go through so I could show the client as well. Mike
when i shake for play in the front i always make sure to check the rear most lca bushing for visible signs of wear, just takes a second to peek. also as i set up the car at each corner ill push the car down to test the shocks. i'm already there. on the way up with the first jolt of the hoist i like to watch the engine and see if it moves from worn mounts, very over looked part of the car.
I personally love oil changes. It's a simple easy way to get work in the door. When someones in spending 1000 dollars on a set of Michelins... you dont have much room to sell other than an alignment... occasionally you'll get the customer with deep pockets that will drop 1500 to 2500 in one go, but unlikely when they've already committed to a premium set of tires.
you should redo the video with a stopwatch and a checklist on the left side of the screen while your performing the inspection, a good inspection with oil change rotation is allotted 1hr at most shops I've worked at.
Thoughts on free inspection?? If the shop tells the customer we do free inspection and tech does not do inspection? But the shop doesn’t pay techs for inspection? What are consequences??
What about the euro air filters. You inspect every one ? Even the miserable ones that are time consuming? Also some cabin filters are difficult access. I rec those by age or mileage. From a customers perspective I would question why someone would take it out and look at it for free but then charge me to replace it. Interested in your response. I always enjoy your vids.
@@autodrglen5634 great point, if possible. I actually purchased a boroscope for that reason 10 years ago. I prefer the dual imager unit (on my snap on) that I have had to replace at least 5 times since.
@@86753091974 I went cheap... bought the large headed $90 camera at Harbor Freight with extended warranty (casts great light to see, but can't get into spark pkug hole or O2 sensor bung hole), so when the newer one came out with the 6mm head for $250.00 I took the okder one back and used the extended warranty upgrade option... paid the difference with no $$ penalty. It does video and images in color and black and white. Fits into spark plug and O2 holes, can file share on SD.card or PC connection, rechargable. Only down fall is it has a single LED head light that leaves something to be desired but still gets the job done and I am happy with the ROI. No problems with it, though I did damage the head on it using it to extract some trailer hitch bolts out of the body of a Fusion and now the picture quality has suffered but still usable.
looks like an OTC or Powerbuilt. you don't need to spend that much for those brands because cheaper ones on amazon have the same review. basic technology here. all these do is test for moisture via resistance/electricity with the two prongs. you can achieve the same test results with a quality multimeter if you already have one.