My viewers have a lot of questions about DCC

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30 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 64

@TheTrainFreak Год назад

Some other good tips: if adding multiple boosters, set them up in power districts. Also I do not recommend using chip board if your layout is inside your house as the glue will put off a toxic odor if it gets wet. Garage would be OK. Easiest DCC system, I've used Digitrax and NCE and the NCE Powercab is super simple and you can easily add on it later when you expand your layout and connect to a computer for JMRI. I have many more tips but that should be good for now. 😃 - Jason

@brucewoods9377 Год назад

If you use MDF, it’s always best to seal it on both sides before using, not forgetting the ends and sides. Rule of thumb, “If you cut it, seal the cut edges too.

@RayBoebel Год назад

I was waiting for someone to ask the swallow question!!! Good to know there are a few Monty Python fans in Model Railroading!!!! Just watch out for the rabbit....its got fangs!!! I do have a Holy Hand Granade that can take him out!!!!

@Clarinetboy82 Год назад

Thanks for answering my question. I appreciate it!

@fredbrooks1386 Год назад

I have said it before on so many things, processes, interests, and this wonderful hobby……….. “ So many things, so little time.” Thanks

@Jason_DPMF Год назад

Been busy setting up a music festival. Done now; time to binge watch

@NS_NScaler_Nick Год назад

Thank you for answering my questions I appreciate it!

@schadowolf Год назад

Great video!

@user-bf1oc6zt1z Год назад

I'm drinking my favorite. COSTA RICAN TARRAZU Medium Roasted Tarrazu is an excellent morning coffee. It offers a sweet, mellow cup that starts with lemony-orange notes accompanied by a smooth, chocolate body and ends with a long-lasting, nutty finish.

@pathvalleyrailroad9277 Год назад

Four seasons in North Carolina; Summer, Fall, Winter and Pollen.

@dougbuchanan9434 Год назад

Thank you so much Jimmy, I really appreciated you getting back to me. I thank you again for your straight forward and common sense answers. Looking forward to see your booster video. Take care and have a good one. P.S. I plan to use Gyprock for my base instead of plywood or mdf.

@Melinko7902 Год назад

That would work, but you'd still want to support it. Gyproc/drywall will just be messy when drilling through it. Otherwise, it will work just as well as MDF/Plywood or OSB.

@johnbanicki7232 Год назад

Another great show. Love my NCE system. But I have used Digitrax and it is good also.

@telusman Год назад

I have a pair of MRC Tech 6 with Sound Control. This gives me a nice hybrid environment that lets me run in either DC mode or a DCC mode where sound functions work and i can do basic CV programming. If you can find the additional hand held module that plugs into it you can actually program and control 6 DCC locomotives at a time. For me its the perfect setup as i have a lot of DC equipment and am slowly building a DCC collection.

@TheRobertLcollins Год назад

I've 3D-printed quite a lot of my Z scale rolling stock, and I'm planning on doing more for a future N scale micro layout. I found that for a filament printer, it's best to create a car in at least two pieces. Usually that's a roof and a body. There are a couple of designs that were in three pieces: roof, body, and floor. This I've found tends to avoid the need for supports. I think in theory a whole car could be printed with a resin printer, but I'd want to find out if any supports caused problems with the appearance of the finished car. I'd also be curious about how long it took the resin to dry if a model was printed with a solid interior to keep the weight up. Nice "Holy Grail" reference, BTW! 😀

@johnm8342 Год назад

Great vid… I program on the job, at work, so I wasn’t initially up to the challenge for doing this as a hobby. Not yet. So I started with the EZ Command. It was a great intro to DCC and agree it is a good starter. I later wanted to consist, have more lights and whistles, and add more locos, so after getting a great price I purchased MRC advance elite so that’s where I’m at now with a round of Black Rifle coffee ☕️

@johnm8342 Год назад

FYI, you can also extend the EZ command with up to 10’ of wire as a walk-around, and I still use their reverse loop mechanism with the new set up. Works better than others.

@Cloudman572 Год назад

Another great episode, thanks. When you do cover the boosters could you ensure you include how to achieve it with DCC-EX, cheers.

@MrGarthah Год назад

my easiest n scale conversions have been early Atlas split frames

@scentgrasslakerailway Год назад

I’m looking forward to your tutorial regarding adding boosters in DCC-EX.

@mollythedog6742 Год назад

Don't forget the Monty Python sketch on European and African swallows "Monty Python and the Holy Grail (1975) clip 1 An African or European swallow -you tube"

@pacificcoastminiatures Год назад

The NCE PowerCab IMO is the best beginner DCC system. Easy to setup and you can expand it later with a USB interface so you can use JMRI like I did.

@johnfm2731 Год назад

I would say the NCE Twin is the most simplest DCC system. And can be expanded to work with JMRI.

@ShipCreekRailway Год назад

I use NCE and JMRI on my Australian based layout.

@AndrewJohnson-ur3lw Год назад

I agree with using a board for none DCC ready stock. I have done this in some loco kits with them, as it enables you to test or run with a none sound chip and then as funds permits you can easily swap the decoder. The HM7000 already have none sound chips which can be fitted to smaller locos.

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

Non-sound

@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204 Год назад

good vid

@dwightatnorthernstar1820 Год назад

Thanks, Jimmy, on the subject of power, I am slowly thinking of adding a switch on some tracks that locos sit that are drawing power to be able to shut them off, thus allowing enough power for locos that are running at the time. I think we all probably have too many locos sitting on the layout, drawing amps either with lights on or being in sleep mode?? Some people put them away, till needed also.....

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

I have had an idea on that. Make a track siding long enough to accommodate a train. The "Track to/from the rest of the world." This would be where you would set up a train that came in from somewhere outside of the layout. Also would be where the train would go when the work is done on the layout, and the new departing train leaves the layout. In reality, it's where you take the train out of storage for use on the layout and where you put it away when done with it.

@michaelpfister1283 Год назад

LOL What IS the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow in flight? We may never know.... ;-) Hooray for MP!

@BrennerEraFan Год назад

Thanks a lot for making this. I was...still am wondering if there are any cheap DCC boosters, like around $15-25 or less, or if it is possible to make a DIY DCC booster yourself. I was previously under the assumption that DCC++EX running from Arduino would only be able to supply 5 volts to the track. Again, thanks a lot for making these videos and answering questions. There aren't that many RU-vidrs out there that have videos structured so perfectly and explain everything so greatly.

@robertbarnes5262 Год назад

I enjoy your videos but I also watch others Some of witch will refer to others in the hobby either a friend or say do a search on a subject. I was wondering your thought of soldering feeders to the rail joiners using flex track

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

It is a good idea. The hottest debate is how often. From my experience, if your track is nailed down so it cannot move and the rail joiners you use fit tight and are not loose, 4 or 5 sections of flex only need 1 feeder set. Especially if you solder the joints on the flex track. I solder all joints on curves. First soldering them when straight, then making the curve. On straight runs I do not solder them as it allows the rails to expand and contract as needed with humidity and temp changes. My layout is about 15 by 40, but around the wall, shelf style spanning 2 rooms. On one of the 40 foot sections, I have 2 feeders, only because I have a walk thru bridge that is powered from either side. The other 3 sides all have 1 feeder each. I have full power at all places on the layout with no problems. If after you get your track down test it out. If you need more feeders, it isn't hard to add them, but no need in adding a feeder every 3 inches. That's just overkill.

@NitroStarGT Год назад

Great info video! Question: whats the deepest recomended layout depth from front to backside track? 36, 42, 44, im getting too far here?!?!?! LOL😊

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

General rule of thumb is simply how far you can reach, or have access to. You should always be able to reach your rolling stock in case of derailments or uncouplings.

@andrewlott5880 Год назад

dd coffee as well

@ammonium4 Год назад

I don't know if this is the place to ask questions, but I have an n scale life like where the positive wire from the front truck runs through the light and then to the motor. To convert this to dcc, should I try to keep the wiring like this or have one truck power the motor and the other power the light?

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

To convert any loco to DCC, the motor must be isolated from the trucks. The decoder will either have wires to run to the trucks, motor, and lights, or have soldering pads on its board to solder wires from those components to the decoder. NMRA standards call for the red and black wires to be track power (trucks), orange and grey wires to the motor, the blue wire is positive common to all functions, and the rest of the colors are usually white for forward light, yellow for reverse light, green and purple for auxiliary lighting. Decoders with more functions that have wires will have different colors, sometimes multiple colored wires. In that case, I suggest that you read the decoder manual as it will tell you what wire does what. If you wire a decoder with a motor wired to track power, you will fry the decoder. (Ask me how I know! LOL)

@GeepSLSF Год назад

Easy one What is Kapton tape and how to use it ……properly

@SFCRambo60 Год назад

Can you tell me about the older N Scale Locomotives that have the white or clear gears on the drives? Are they junk and if so is there anything one can do? Is it worth buying Kato Chassises and save them?

@CSXEK Год назад

I have a question I’m doing a CSX layout and all my main line switches will be electric locked and I wanna use my phone to control them what things do I need to do that

@modelrailfan37 Год назад

Can anyone that uses an NCE Powercab let me know if you can use that controller to change CV’s?

@mikihill88 Год назад

On average, 21 mhp for a european swallow, unladen of course. These are things you need to know when working a reniasaiance faire information booth. 😉

@Melinko7902 Год назад

Also information you need to join most model railroad groups on socials 😅

@BrennerEraFan Год назад

What's a swallow?

@rickmiller595 Год назад

Is that an unladen swallow?

@philhamsher3977 Год назад

I have a Digitrax Zephyr that I am starting with. There is a setting that will allow me to run a DCC loco on a DC layout but I'm hearing a lot that it could do damage to my DCC loco. What is your opinion?

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

It depends on the decoder. The manual will explicitly say whether you can run it on DC or not. Just read the instructions of the decoder. On the other hand, running an analog loco on DCC is a different story. Running the engine is fine, it's when you leave it sitting and humming that causes damage. I run DC on my DCC all the time. My trick is to limit the run time of them. 30 minutes max, then a 1 hour cool down time.

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

I'm thinking that in your question, you meant running DC on DCC, not the other way around? The Zephyr has no settings for running DCC on an analog layout, as the decoder in the locomotive is what determines that. But, you use address 00 to run analog locomotives on the Zephyr.

@jackheninger5471 Год назад

Hi Jimmy, when you get to the point where you are really fed up with allergies, clean out your liver. Lots of ways to do this including buying a package of stuff that is suppose to work. That didn't work for me. Parsley turned into a juice with a bit of apple to make it drinkable. It has a very potent taste. Drink a small glass once a day until your allery clears up and doesn't show up the next day. It turns out in my case I am allergic to grains. Once I cut those out almost 100% my life became very different. Yes it is possible, at one time my allergies were 365 days a year all day long.

@othmarbrunner9639 Год назад

how do you uncouple cars in n scale without having to manually lift the cars

@JacksonSubNScaleModelRailroad Год назад

If you use Micro-Trains couplers, they have magnetic trip pins on them. Put a magnet under the ties, and when you compress the slack with the couplers over top of the magnet, the knuckles will get pulled open, and you can pull the train away and everything from the magnet back will stay behind. I guess it doesn't bother me too much. When I'm switching on my layout, I pretend that I'm the conductor on the ground, spotting and setting out cars, hooking up air hoses and releasing or setting handbrakes. So lifting them to uncouple is, to me, the same as lifting a cut lever.

@othmarbrunner9639 Год назад

Hi dave thank you and much appreciated Best regards Othmar

@allenkotlan3606 Год назад

Use a manual pick. A large tooth pick or more commonly a food skewer. Hold the blunt end of the skewer between your finger tips. From above the rolling stock place the pick point straight down on top of the joint between couplers. Press down lightly to flex the couplers. Roll the skewer between your finger tips to give it a twist and the couplers will separate. Hint: Add a short piece of heat shrink tubing to the blunt end of the skewer for grip.

@othmarbrunner9639 Год назад

Hi Allen thank you for this value information much appreciated Have a great weekend Best regards Othmar