Bro i love your car, i also put s hood exit on my car, but im still hella confused about all the o2 sensors thing, so i have the ones that goes next to the transmission pan under the car, disconnected and connected the ones on top of the engine into the manifold, do i still need to run a o2 sensor on the hood exit pipe?
@@mohicanspeed how did you make it work? They are so short, and also would i have issues you think if i just put a cap on the o2 bung on my pipe? And code the rears ones out?
The wires wrap around the transmission just pull them out it will reach just fine, you only need to one of the rear o2 sensor a tuner can code the other one off
Still need to sort out a few things and get in on the dyno. But i am projecting about 750whp on this engine. But It’s getting a built motor for next year so then I’ll be over 1000whp. Goal is to sort out any issues tuning and hardware issues with this motor and then drop in a built motor.
@@ES-ch3wy stock N54s have seen around 800whp+ can’t remember what the exact record is for a completely stock N54 is. The key to making it last is keeping the torque below 700 tho, although the factory rods are forged they are pretty slim and at high torque outputs they will bend. Most people simply do rods and pistons for a basic build but at around 900hp the open deck design starts to fail so furthermore a close deck insert is needed. 90 percent of N54 builds don’t even touch the head they just leave it stock, which personally I think it’s a big mistake. The n54s head flows horribly for comparison a Honda K-Series head flows almost 2x the amount per cylinder. So building and porting a head could bring a lot of gains, at lower boost levels. Not sure if that answer your question, if it dint just ask again and I’ll try to answer it.
