Near-Death experiences paddling out in HUGE waves 

And water temp. I surfed up in Humboldt for 20 years and had some really really scary situations in 10 ft waves. Surfed same size wave’s in Bali and the water felt fluffy.

Absolute truth. I've surfed 6-8' surf on three consecutive days, one of those days felt like 12-15' slammers while other two days were mellow in comparison.

Very true. My buddy almost drowned at the HB Cliffs. I think he was tired from the paddle out, and then took 2 on the head. His leash snapped and he started to panic. I was keeping an eye on him because he wasn’t very experienced . I got him back to the shore thank God. He still talks about that day. He thought he was done.

size matters when wave is barreling. 6m wall is safer than 1m barrel.

@@vvaitkev suprantamas dalykas

😂😂👍👍👍

You Know it.

Its when you pop out the back and hope to God there isn't one or two bombs coming at you - and you see a smooth sea. Boy that feels good. And winter sucked over the falls - nothing worse. So helpless.

Schadenfreude

@@markaurit8990I’m now rather old and haven’t surfed for over a decade and wood give just about anything to experience either or both again. Of course I have likely suppressed the memory of how bad it can get.

Rip Foo.

Yeah, cos of all the extra fibreglass in the water!

Huntington Beach 😂

Been there. Not only held down so long I gave up on life, but I had also spiked the sandbar headfirst in very shallow water and hollow, head-high waves. At first I thought I had snapped my neck. My forehead was firmly planted on the bottom and the momentum of the wave kind of folded me in half backwards. I told myself that these were the last moments of my life. However, when I finally shook off being dazed and realized I still could move, I swam for the surface as fast as I could except I was so disoriented I was actually swimming parallel to the surface. The only thing that saved me was when my knee accidentally scraped the bottom and I was able to figure out what was up and what was down. When I finally popped up, the freaking water was waist only deep! I doubt I could have held my breath one second longer. This was around `88, `89 or so. I've been pounded many times in much larger surf, but I never felt anything like that beating in what should have been an easy, fun session. I guess any condition can be dangerous. Just depends on the circumstances.

@@tolstoy21 That's a hell of an experience! Mine was in '83, when the End Cafe on the HB pier was damaged. Once I made it though that first event, it took me two lifeguard towers on the Southside, going under the pier, and finally getting out just past the first tower on the Northside. You mentioned knee deep water, its crazy how disorienting and panicked we get in that situation. I remember trying to walk out of the water on the Southside up to my mid thighs and being pulled back in. Glad you survived dude! 🤙

@@tolstoy21 it’s funny because when that happens to me I laugh, been having those kinda wipeouts since I was 6 and theirs nothing dangerous about them if u know what ur doing

@@ChickenJoe-tq6xd You laugh when you almost snap your neck on a sandbar? You've been having wipe outs like that since you were six? How often you you face plant the bottom? I've certainly wiped out in all kinds of conditions since the early 80s, but I've only come close to being a paraplegic once, and that was in small surf. Nothing is dangerous when you know what you are doing, but every now and then you get caught unaware.

The wedge doesn't have long hold downs....the energy dissipates rather quickly and your on the beach....however it will suck you back out....wedge is just super violent Deep water spots where the energy holds fir long time after wave has broke is where you can be inder for long periods of time Problem is when you get clocked your already out of breath from paddling at the start of the beatdown Blacks is one of the those spots

I would love to hear about experiences like that as well. But have your ever listened to some of these surfers? Not the best speakers in the world if ya know what I mean.

Don’t know til you try 😂

Thanks 👍

hahahahahahaha. sorry about that!

gotta watch out for those arrows!

Yaaa buddy!!😆😆

Blacks, I think.

those 5 seconds are feel insanely good tho. It sticks to your memory. It always makes my day better

I was going to ask the same question. Ive been there when it was huge like this and its very scary and humbling