I hope this isn't the actual issue with my Panasonic vs just some loose grounds lol. but I am willing to go this far for the set if need be. ill have a look at it tonight. the symtoms of mine are exactly like this NEC. Its a very similar style of set too, an industrial display.
+Blahblox Gyuanox Heating elements? What is this a toaster?They are not heating elements, they are heatsinks that remove the heat from semiconductors and dissipate it into the air like a radiator. They also don't run that hot. What causes the heat in capacitors is internal resistance. This heats the plates up. Capacitors used in switching power supplies, just due to the high frequency they are operated at, create extreme ripple currents at the operating frequency. At DC voltages they block current, but on AC (and rectified AC to DC looks just like AC to a capacitor, they pass currents, which creates heat. This is why low internal ESR (equivalent series resistance) is so important. The lower the ESR the less heat that will be generated. Heat causes the electrolytic, which is water or oil based to boil which produces steam, and causes the tops of the caps to budge and eventually the safety vent opens, otherwise the capacitor would explode like a cherry bomb.Speaking of that, old electrolytes did not have this safety vent. Back when I was in high school some student used to take great pride in sticking big electrolytic caps on the end of a lamp cord and plugging it in. It made for entertaining times when the school was evacuated due to the resulting loud bang and all the smoke. Never mind the circuit breaker trip.
+# Charis More like about 15800 hours. It is on a dentist office. They are only open 6 hours a day 5 days a week an it wouldn't b left running 24/7. I did being up the hour meter an looked at th off camera. Those old panels were rated 60k hours so it has some like left. Newer panels were rated 100k hours, but we all know the electronics won't last that long.
I have 2 NEC PX42vrw monitors but suddenly no picture in both of them( them go to stand by mode0 I have connected from DVI to HDMI, especial cable, and the normal yellow(video), white and red(audio) can you advise me what it is wrong. But after that startet to turn on and off. Thanks
I have noticed that often when i working with japanese equipment, the big caps can strikes even after 1-2 days after they turned off :) like rubycon, nichicon or matsushita caps. Here i guess they comes from china or taiwan... in Nippon product?.... Sad. But now, working in service center, i see that even on the respected audio models of Yamaha now began to use chinese caps like jamicon... for me personally, its really sad... the farther away - the more savings (sorry for my bad russian english)
always love your videos, you seem to have a lot of bad cap issues, I have an old panasonic plasma coming in tomorrow with the 7 light error code, now why cant that be bad caps, bount to be a complicated fet on the y sus, i never have fets in stock
+Allen Fleckney Panasonic learned back in the 90's about bad Chinese made caps and started making their own. They tend to have ground screw problems that causes voltage spikes that leads to blown semis.
There are HDMI to VGA converters. I have one. Made by Enjoy Gadgets. Converts HDMI to either component or VGA. Here is a video of me making mine work properly for the component output as the color was off, but the RGB output was fine. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QZocdNREvtY.html
Just curious... since NTSC and CRTs have been abolished, no more b&w TV sets are made anymore. It seems as though few small portable ATSC tuner LCD TVs are out there - cheap, like those GPX 5" b&w sets. Yes, there are small smart phones and pads, but not cheap portable FREE over the air ATSC TV sets. Could it be the poor reception. Portable TV with no added fees? Don
+umajunkcollector I have a small 7" battery powered TV that has both NTSC and ATSC tuner in it. I use it at work for testing cable boxes. The problem is most ATSC signals are not very strong, so you don't get the same reception as old analog.Still lots of CRT sets out there. I see them almost every day. I am starting to receive requests to fix old TVs again, because people bought a new one and didn't dispose of the old one, stuck it in a basement or something. The new TV blew up after 2 years, and now they want to get the old one going again because it is 20 years old and still going strong.
I have a Sharper Image 7" portable too, it needs the LION pack. If I want digi-tv, I have to use a much better antenna, may as well use wall wart too since that kills portability. ATSC battery portables are few and hard to find any variety. Who makes NEW CRT TVs? And no mo b&w. ATSC, another govy SNAFU. btw, who made Sharper Image? They did not provide a battery part number or even model number for it??? What brand / model is yours? Don
+umajunkcollector I don't think you will find any CRT sets made anymore. I have one of the last, if not the last run made by RCA. It was a clear out at Walmart and I bought it for my security camera monitor. I have nicely burned an image of my front and back doors as well as my driveway and front yards into the screen. I now have it in my secondary work shop where it sees very little use, basically only to monitor the odd 3/4" tape transfer, or PAL transfer I get as that is where I have that equipment stored. Still it does have a good picture for SD. No digital tuner in it. Made in 2007 just before then end of analog broadcasting. Paid 50.00 for it. Nice 21" CRT. I have a few old Sony color sets, and a couple of B/W 9" security monitors I am hanging to as collectables. A really rare monitor I have is a Texas Instruments home computer monitor. That was goven to me, and it originally was a 1,200 accessory to the TI99/4A computer, which I also have one of. That unit will likely increase in value as there were not many of them made, and most were discarded after TI left the home computer business in 1982.
My first PC was a TI99/4a w/ 16k. I liked playing Attack and Parsac. BASIC made me crazy. I have a mid 70s Sony 16" Trinitron that I got at a junk store for 10$, itsa keeper. I have three 50s sets too. I watch my Toshiba 36" crt set every day, probably 15 years of hard use.
+umajunkcollector I have a couple of old Tektronix CRT broadcast monitors. Now those are a beast. I should drag one out and do a tear down on it. They are more of an exoskeleton design. All the boards are on the outside of the frame, and it is designed to slide into an external cabinet, or rack. Came out of a VTR bay in a TV station I used to work. Even had the "safe" area mask stuck on the tube for framing. I have 2 of them they work great, and weight a bloody ton. I also have a couple of tek scopes. A waveform monitor and vector scope. Great for looking at video signals, and not much else.
Bumble bee, wax paper, old caps - bad bad bad, but all too many modern caps go bad in a few years. I have some old stuff that works better than newer crap with modern cheap junk caps.
+umajunkcollector 4 words come to mind. Reduction Of Hazardous Substances.ROHS. We have all seen that label on electronics over the past dozen or so years. The funny thing about this set is that it, even though it is an LG set, is made in China. The LG branded plasma I have was made in Maxico
My Panasonic plasma has a half brightness rating of 60,000 hours. You just can't beat these plasmas for longevity of service. That's 21 years of life @ 9 hours a day 6 days a week. These shitty lcd sets wouldn't last 3 years.
As you being an experienced tech and doing work for pay, that's some really crappy soldering you are doing; too much solder on the joints You should be using smaller diameter solder like .031". Why don't you use flush cutters for trimming the leads? With as much soldering/through hole soldering you do, why don't you have/use a professional de-soldering station or at least something like a Hakko 808 or FR-300? Maybe you end up fixing these boards, but not impressed with the tools/workmanship.
+Tom Dewey I see nothing wrong with the solder work here. The connections are nice and shiny which means enough heat was applied to get a good bond. I also don't see a point in using fine gauge solder for large through hole components. Perhaps for SMD work. That looks like 60/40 solder, which turns out much shinier than the lead free stuff they use at the factory.
+Jim Reardon Well Jim you must be somewhat blind if you can't see the very obvious overflow of solder on the joints. Using a smaller gauge of solder when working on PC board traces allows for a finer control of the amount to flow onto the joint so you end up with an ideal "tee-pee" shape/joint look; like it should be.
+Tom Dewey First of all, there is nothing wrong with the soldering. I do inspect all my work with a large magnifying glass, but as other people have expressed their opinion about me wasting time with the shot blocked, I edited these shots out. I also edited out the ESR testing of all the other electrolytic, and the solder inspection of the mosfet and diode connections. I get flack from people that the videos are too long, and I should get to the point, and when I do get to the point I catch shit from people telling me I don't know how to solder. Let me assure you that I do know how to solder. I picked the best shots that showed me actually doing something, and cut the rest. Same as I didn't show the initial symptom, you will have to take my word that it was just clicking, and the screen would randomly glow for second.As to professional DE soldering gear, perhaps if I still made a living doing electronics repairs I would invest in tools, but I don't. I retired from the electronics service industry in 2003, and now work in telecom. I do repair work only for people that know me. This set came from one of my former co-workers that brought it in for one of his customers. I don't do much paid work, the majority of the equipment you see is mine. Stuff that has been donated to me. Also there is nothing wrong with that solder I am using. It is Kester 60/40 rosin core. The thin stuff just ensures that I will use more of it. I don't make much money from doing the actual repair, where I do make money eventuality is from residuals from the youtube advertising, which is why I shoot them in the first place. Every time you see an ad I make a penny or 2.
+Jim Reardon Jim there was a few that were not perfect that I couldn't see clearly while I was shooting, but once I brought out the big glass, I would see a couple that needed touching up. I cut that out because all you could see was the magnifier and my arm in the shot. That's the problem getting old, you can't see up close without help :)
