Larry, I had a love/hate relationship with my PR4. I use a test track on my workbench with a dedicated computer for JMRI to do the programming. While the PR4 would work many times, all too often it would not talk to the locos. Requiring some combination of resetting the PR4, the PC or both. It got to the point where I took a loco with known values to use to confirm I had good connectivity before attempting to program a loco. Even then I could read and write to two or three locos and then it would quit working again. After three years of this inconsistent performance, I gave up and bought a SPROG3. 6 months now and it has never failed to read or write to a decoder. Much happier now.
@@TheDCCGuy your video on the Sprog3 was one of the reasons I went that route when I got tired of fighting with the PR4. Digitrax support for this was virtually non-existent. They told me they don’t support JMRI, but they couldn’t even tell me why it wouldn’t communicate consistently with their own software. Fortunately the Digitrax 210 system on my layout has performed much better.
Hi Larry, I’m still using my PR3 with DecoderPro with a RaspberryPi. However, I’ve built a number of DCC++ command stations recently and the WiFi Arduino version I now have is very small and portable. It’s proved to be extremely reliable at programming a wide range of decoders and is a full command station when used with one of the smartphone control apps. (I have an MRC, NCE, ESU and even a QSI programmer and use Lenz with their computer interface at our club - the DCC++ hasn’t proved perfect but as good as anything else I’ve used.)
Another great instructional video Larry. I appreciate you clearing up several questions I had about a stand alone programming track. Although I do not use Digitrax, I have the NCE. But my general questions were all covered in this video! I hope you continue providing us with more videos like this ! Perhaps get a new loco, and illustrate start to finish how you organize your locos in JMRI
Thank you Larry, this video is very well done and helpful... as usual 🙂 My main interest is speed matching so I can use any of my engines in a consist. Right now they are setup in pairs which works just fine but I can't "mix and match". Thanks again, I know for sure the PR4 will do what I need it to do.
Very useful video Larry. I purchased a PR4 last year when I had to set up a Digitrax sound decoder for a club member (download the sound file). Since then, I haven't had much use for it, until now. While I'll also keep my NCE PowerCab system for programming and testing, the PR4 will allow me to do programming on the road with my laptop, as you just demonstrated, without having to take as much equipment (no PowerCab and interface).
Beautifully explained thanks and very informative, will take a look at Decoder Pro, great to see how easy it was to use and logical in operating. I have a PR4 that I will be using to act as an interface to program some of my Loconet signalling controllers. I have a MRC/ Gaugemaster Prodigy/ DCC02 system, so no direct way of programming those from that equipment. I have yet to use it. It’s amazing how many different ways there are of doing things in this hobby! A key advantage of the PR4 over the PR3 is it is electrically isolated from the PC USB, so minimizes any risks of either destroying each other due to any grounding issues and surges. Sorry to hear of your laptop lightning strike damage, we have the 4.4kV power poles down our back service alley, dread any strike damage! There is only so much energy the MOVs/VDRs can take in those domestic suppression units and it is not much.
Hi Larry. Very good. I think I would use an Arduino Mega + motor shield with DCC-EX loaded and do it that way. This would come in well under half price of the PR4
I'm obviously getting old. I'll have to watch this video several times before I understand what you're doing. That's the price I pay for not being tech savvy.
I've been using a SPROG 3 as my go-to programmer, together with Decoder Pro, for some while now. The SPROG supports the Decoder Pro throttle feature, but with the limitation of only controlling a single loco at a time. Unfortunately, it does not support consisting. It's very handy to be able to open the throttle and review your CV settings, and adjust them as desired, without handling the loco.
To consist with the Sprog 3 you have to put it into the Command Station mode and select Programming on the main. In Decoder Pro go to Edit Preferences Connections and change the System Connection from SPROG to SPROG Command Station. That will enable the Consisting Tool under Actions.
Excellent tutorial on PR4. PR4 has three LED indicators (red, green; blue) with two push buttons. Instruction sheet supplied with PR4 says blue LED will rapid flash when PR4 is in programmer mode (vs Loconet connection mode). No mention in video, however. How do I use the push buttons to set blue LED rapid flash for programmer mode?
So after loading the drivers, I followed your instructions and moved on. My set up is Win7 and a PR4. After finding the COM port number, the connection page was easy, but the default page can not be set as hovering over each button results in "Internal is not a valid choice for throttles" (and all the other buttons). Ignoring this , the rest does seam to work.
I saw that once when I was setting it up but assumed it was due to the very old version of DeocoderPro I was using, and as you say once you click past it it works OK. I just need to settle on a new computer and order one, dealing with this ancient Dell and Windows 7 is just frustrating and slooooow!
Hi Larry @TheDCCGuy , I've been using the Digitrax PR4 with my stand alone programming track and Decoder Pro for a few years now with much success. That is until I purchased my first Sound Equipped Locomotive. When I try to read the locomotive CV information to start the programming process and even though I can see the locomotive jump slightly, Decoder Pro says there is no response from the decoder. I've read on the JMRI forum, this is a known issue and the audio part of the DCC decoder has a tendency to block the acknowledgement signal. Also I know the decoder is OK, as I'm able to change CV values using my command station. So my question, can a SoundTraxx PTB-100 Programming Track Booster be wired in between my PR4 and my programming track to help boost the programming signal, without damaging my PR4? Also just a FYI for you to fill in some background information, the reason I use Decoder Pro with a PR4 on a separate programming track is, my Digitrax DB150 command station does not support CV read back. Also I really like the database feature of Decoder Pro. Since my layout is very small, my DB150 meets all my needs, so even though I've upgraded throttles over the years, my DB150 still continues to meet the needs of my small layout. Thank You in Advance for any information you can provide. Kind Regards, Rich S.
Hi Larry, Thank you for this very interesting and informative video. I have just started getting into DCC, but I have not yet got a locomotive running on DCC. I recently purchased a pre-owned Athearn blue box S-12 PWR Santa Fe locomotive. I have contacted several people who work with DCC to find out which decoder I can obtain and install into this locomotive and it did not go too well. I was asked to open up the locomotive and measure the distance between the motor and the top of the housing and a few other things they wanted to know. After several possible proposals, I am still unsure what to do as these items cost a lot of money. After watching this video of yours on “Stand alone programmer” I noticed that you have a S-12 as the demo locomotive and I thought that it might be the same inside as the one I have, so I would appreciate it very much if you can advise here for me. Kind regards Edward
Edward-that is a Bowser Baldwin loco not Athearn. The thing to be most aware of with the Athearn Baldwin is they were made for many years with various motors, most not very good. The most recent version has a skew wound 5 pole motor that isn’t all that bad. At any rate I did a video on such an install #88. The decoder I used is no longer made but you can find one with a similar size and amperage rating easily. I also did videos that might be helpful as you need to make sure it is running well on DC power before installing a decoder. Look at videos #164 & #228. Good luck.
Hi Larry. I'm stuck at knowing what Decoder Pro is. When I type it in to the search on your channel I don't get any introduction video telling me what Decoder Pro is. The first one in the list is this one. What is Decoder Pro? Is it a piece of software, or a module that attaches to your computer (like Loksound), where's the video that tells you what it is?
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks, but that starts with DecoderPro already installed. On reading up about it I see that it is JMRI. When you download JMRI you don't get an application called JMRI, you get two applications, one called DecoderPro, the other PanelPro.
I’d have to test that and get back to you. That said I have never had any trouble with programming LokSound decoders using my DCS240 which basically has a PR4 in it acting as the computer interface
When you said stand alone , my ears pricked up. So can the wifi device lnwi be connected directly to this and presto my phone can control trains with engine driver?
I am pretty sure that will not work as the throttle needs to connect to an actual command station which converts the throttle inputs to actual DCC commands.
Do you mean in conjunction with a Digitrax command station or stand alone? It should function fine as a computer to Loconet interface for DigiIPL purposes but I cannot find any place where they say it works that way by itself. I suspect you have to go through a command station but am not sure so really a question for Digitrax.
@@TheDCCGuy I have a DT602-D throttle for use on my club's layout; but I do not use Digitrax at home. The throttle needs a firmware update and I was wondering if the PR4 could do that.
Larry can you please help me, I want to go to train shows and buy Locomotives both steam and Diesel either DC or DCC. What do I need to have with me to test these items? A 9 volt battery, a PR4 and short test Track or maybe a Rokuhan RC-03 or what so I'm not buying junk? It use to be carry around a 9 volt but now days the sellers in my state say if I test it I buy it, What? What happen to being trustworthy?
Odd, when I used to attend train shows they often had a test track set up where folks could test a loco before leaving. That really is a downside when it comes to buying locos there unless the dealer will agree to accept it back of it doesn’t run when you get it home. That said I never had a loco that I bought at a show not run, but I generally did not buy old, well used models. If you buy a junker be ready to repair it.
No, it works with either Digitrax equipment or as a stand alone device. In that capacity it acts merely as a programming interface with DecoderPro creating and sending the programming commands.
I set up Decoder Pro as you said. At the 9:00 minute mark I checked all the buttons as you said. Then I save and restart. When Decoder Pro opens again none of the buttons are checked. But they are highlighted. When I exit the preferences screen I get the message, "The Default preferences are invalid. Do you want to correct them?" Do you have any idea what is going wrong?
Try saying no and go ahead and try a decoder read. I ran into this once and thought it was due to my very old DecoderPro installation. It worked but I will crank it up again tomorrow and see what happens. Fortunately my DCS240 came back from Digitrax all fixed so I put the PR4 back in storage.
@@TheDCCGuy I will give it a try. I made sure I have the most recent version of Decoder Pro installed. I also sent you an email with more information. Thanks.
Larry I have a question for you but it doesn’t have anything to do with this video. I have a lot of rolling stock from when I built a layout for my son when he was small, now he is 35. I want to replace the couplers with metal KD couplers. I have truck couplers What number do I need please. Marty Newell I live in North Carolina also.
Depends on how they are mounted. However in most cases it is best to cut the coupler completely off the truck and body mount KDs in draft gear boxes using 2-56 screws. You may need to add shims to get the correct height.
It will depend on the type of car. I just keep a bunch of long ones and cut them to the desired length. It will,also depend on how thick a shim you need. I bought a bunch last year when Bowser had one of their fire sales but Walthers carries them and you hobby shop may have them. Also, don’t overlook your Ace hardware. Probably good to get an assortment. Check the KD website for their pdf catalog, it has the dimensions of all their couplers and draft gear so that should give you some ideas of screw length needed.
