Neevesy's simple set-up hacks: sort your bike like a road test pro | MCN | Motorcyclenews.com 

No profanity, no criticism of other journalists- just solid facts and guidance. 25 years of experience in a 17 minute video ! Thank you Neevsey.

Neeves has been generous of late. Seems like he's in a point in his life where he has no fear of competition. Just giving back mood.

Fantastic Michael. After 50 years on a bike I’ve picked up most of this but so good to have it all confirmed by a pro in one simple, down-to-earth video. The silver lining to the Covid19 cloud. Look forward to more like this.

Thank you. So calm, so all knowing but gentle. Man, I like your style of passing on knowledge, deep knowledge. Honest. Broadly experienced, not selling anything. Awesome video.

As always, brilliant layman terms that everyone can understand... Love your reviews and input Neevesy!

Heard TMF mentioning this guy quite a bit, but never really seen him. Now I know why. I've watched a few videos of late (I'm sure we all have!!), and this guy is top notch in his knowledge and presentation. This stuff is gold dust to those who were not born on a bike (you know who you are!). I for one appreciate the information and the easy way it is presented.

That was years of experience in 16 minutes. Amazing.

Love listening to people who actually know their stuff. Thanks Michael.

Neeves so relaxed and calm, man continue with this series, any info you give is valuable to us. :)

setting your handlebars by rotating them really helps too on some bikes. especially on everything you ride offroad with.

We need more of these videos online. There’s so much on new bikes no one can afford and all the expensive modifications and maintenance but so little is on the basics of good bike setup. So many people on the road have their bike set up so bad but they don’t know because you rarely get a chance to ride two identical bikes with two totally different setups to compare against. That’s why it’s so hard to figure out what works best because there’s little to compare your bike to unless you keep messing around with the settings each time you ride on the same road.

All the “Fast Boys” are going to be riding about with their brake levers hard up against the glove, because “Neevesy says racers do that”😂

What an excellent guide based on proven experience, top tips from a top guy! 👍👍

Thanks for posting. Proud owner of a UK spec 918 FireBlade! Watching this in Guyana, South America.

Watching 6 months of motorcycle vids this was honestly the most useful to me

One of the more likeable motorcycle reviewers on youtube ...

Went up to the supermarket on the bike after going softer on compression damping on the front and rear on my MT10SP, a lot better no jarring through the bars. So thanks for that Mr Neeves

Good info for any rider beginner or experienced

I truly appreciate your insight, Neeves! It's like you are my personal coach, and your knowledge is very helpful and on point. Thank you.

This video is gold. Every bit of it is useful and informative. Total respect for doing this.

Great advice from the Don 👍

Amazing. Went in the garage last night and had to tinker - you are bang on about the levers, and adjusting them to your liking. Thank you. Please continue with this - lets do some Q&A like Simon Crafar is doing, help us get through this lockdown.

Thanks for sharing that hard earned knowledge with us all Neevesy. Be nice to be able to go out and put into practice once lockdown is over 😀

Thank you for your service to humanity. 🙂👍

Awesome Video Michael, I genuinely do not think there is anyone out there with more Motorcycle knowledge than you! Respect!...😊👍

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience so clearly and concisely. 🙏🏼👏💚

I agree with pretty much everything, with a few small caveats. I generally find it's better to run tire pressures a bit lower in the rear than in the front. Pressures depend on the carcass construction, but generally I go 32-34 rear, and 34-36 front. I'll put more in the rear if I'm just doing commuting though for longevity. I fully agree that people drop their pressures too much on the road. Everything you said is correct about how on the track the COLD pressures are lower because the tires are meant to heat up which increases the pressures. But one thing people don't often realize is that you get much *less* grip when your pressures remain too low. It's not just lazy steering; The tires end up deflecting, compressing, and then bouncing back. Not only does this wear the tires out many times faster, this quick flexing creates a cavitation effect that makes the tire unstable. It will wallow around alot, and can even give a feeling like rebound is too fast, when really it's the tire flexing and rebounding too much. It's a really bad situation. Basically, big thumbs up pointing that one out. You can drop your pressures a *little* if you're going to be maintaining a healthy clip on a back road, but I'm talking a couple PSI, max.

Yep excellent advice for someone like me who's only been riding for just over 1 year

My new (at the time) 2015 GSX-R750 NEEDED the suspension adjustment and ECU tuning just to be RIGHT. I also upgraded the adjustable rear axle adjuster and extended 12-15mm (depending on the day (Temps, route, tire pressure, etc) and that thing handled like a damn dream. Anyone with a K5 and up needs to do this. Example of how bad factory Suzuki ECUs are.. after my tune (ignition and fuel with full bolt-ons and no cat) I made as much to the wheel as a factory Gixxer 1000.

Agree with almost everything said, apart form what was said about tire pressures. I have found that lower tire pressures help stop the tires prematurely wearing. My rides typically involve a 40 mile freeway ride to where the good roads start and when I first got my R1M myself and other were aghast at the tire wear from cold shearing and from wearing flat on the rear. I only had 400 miles on my first rear when it started to flatten out noticeably. I found that my wear problems stopped largely by running 5psi or so low front and rear. It feels like they might warm a bit quicker too, but to be fair the RS10’s are pretty good even cold. Did the same on a set of S21’s on my GSXR and they lasted 3 seasons-finally down to the wear bars. The Super Corsa Whatever’s on the EBR1190RS (not RX, the RS was a Bucket List bike for me)I just got might get the same treatment once I get used to them and set the chassis up. Hope you’re doing well in the UK (was born near RAF Lakenheath), things are quite bad here in Detroit, we can still ride as a recreational activity but the economy simply vanished. Best regards, Dave

Thanks Neevesy, very helpful. Stay safe.

Great advice🥳 and at a time lots of us might have the time at hand since they can't use their bike because of isolation restrictions. 🥺

This is what you get with years of unbiased experience, having been paid to do a job objectively. Not the uninformed ramblings you get from far too many a vlogger who just seems excited to have a free bike to use and is out to make content for contents sake.

Thanks for taking the time to do this. While I may not have learned anything new, this was a great confirmation that what I've been doing for years is right, not only in my own eyes but also someone like yourself who is a professional.

Ive personally found that under "normal" conditions the brake lever is better closer to the throttle, however I have it farther away because I found that if I have to do an emergency brake where I have to react quickly ,my fingers were caught by the lever as I was trying to "roll off" and then get on the brake as quickly as possible.As I ride through the winter and have thicker gloves on, having the lever farther than nearer is best for me.

. . . also adjust the handle bars mm perfect until they feel right for your riding style & arm length, then adjust levers accordingly. Makes a World of difference.

Really helpful for a newbie. Thanks

Great advice Neevsey. I knew nothing about bikes when I got my first and luckily spoke to a dealer who had a workshop and helped me with the suspension set up as I'm very tall and heavy. Thanks for tips with levers and gear position. My wrists hurt on long journey's and I just came to expect that being that I ride a sports bike but that just might save me a bit of pain.

Great video! Definitely some useful nuggets of information

Plus if your brake lever is too high you have to make an accelerating action with your wrist to enable your fingers to operate the lever, potentially causing you to accelerate into a braking situation, not good. Great video

Good pointer and I like Leavers close as it’s Easier to modulate until you trap your 3finger on a emergency braking 😱

This is an excellent video Neevesy

Neevsey keeping it 💯 real no bs no willy waving just saying it how it is 👏👏

Many thanks for this superb checklist. One for the archives. Best. G.

“Trail Braking...” that put my FS1-E into a left hand bend field in 1975. Sadly I’ve never learnt any different 😩😩😩 But I will be bringing the brake lever in closer on my current ride. Well you’ve got to start somewhere!

Thank you! Amazing to listen to you, great advice!

I waited my whole life for a race type bike. When Aprilia RSV4 RF LE in 2018 came out with wings I had to have it. Nothing to do to it, besides set up suspension for my weight. She even came with premium Pirelli rubber.

My old '07' KTM 990 Superduke recommends 34psi front & rear. I live in the Italian mountains & run Supercorsa SPs. Normally run 33 front 32 back, & can get a wiggle on nae bother. 34 front 30 back on my local track in Modena. Stay safe thanks for all the vids. FatBoy.

More of this wisdom please while most of us have too much time on our hands.

Fantastic, again.

I have my brake lever somewhat far out but I have big hands. Never had an issue trail braking 🤷🏽‍♂️

Re front brake lever - I've always preferred my lever further out as I feel particularly with mediocre braking setups like an R1 it can make the master cyl'r feel firmer as I prefer a firmer brake lever as opposed to a spongy feel. I ride in the int-adv groups on track and typically the hardest on the brakes into corners (an amateur K.Schwantz so to speak haha)

Truly the voice of experience

As far as tire pressures it’s good to go with the tire manufacturers recommendations if they make them available. Dunlop’s Q3+ lists them at 32/32ish F/R.

“The baby bear’s porridge”. Dying. I look forward to the first time i can organically use this seemingly british expression. Thanks Neeves

Excellent vid. Best bike journo by miles - the biker's Chris Harris.

Good advice all over. I agree on every point, way of thinking.

That was interesting and was very relaxing and knowledgeable chat really enjoyed it 👍👍

Re tire pressure, I've always used what the bike manufacturer recommends, not the tire maker. That can change though after suspension changes are made.

I really enjoyed this, thank you. I hope to see more like this. Maybe tips for touring?

Really interesting comment about brake levers. I wouldn't say I'm a fast rider but I'm not slow when I want to be. Braking is an area I'm not as confident as everything else though. I used to do 2 stroke kart racing and I know from that how easy it is to make mistakes when you're really pushing. I don't race/ go as quick as I can on the road for that reason and I find it really difficult to judge what's an appropriate amount of braking on the road. Might try putting the lever in a click just see if it makes any difference once we're allowed back outside

Great video..helped me out alot

It IS nice from time to time. Well said.😎

Excellent. Love your work. thanks.

Can imagine what sort of rider would thumbs down this vid

Solid advice

Great video! Maybe my fav from you. Can u do a video only about suspension, and how they affect the sport bike. No body is doing that. I gave up and took the 2021 R-1 to a high level shop, $80 plus tip. Hoping to fix my problem. dropped the bike with 138 miles on it. Dropped in rear of truck, right handle grip bar end made impact with truck wheel well. Wheel well has lined n its 3 inch up from actually touching and took some impact too. Now the bike just wont flick, bike feels stuck straight up n harder to flick n undependable when flicked, might go to far by a bit. Also when u sitting on it n spinning handlebars around, theres a clicking noise. Sucks, it was a sick bike, to me it trash now.

Amazing content, top man

Thank you

Great vid thanks Neevesy, all the ‘fast’ 🤦🏻‍♂️sports bike boys will be.......”oh really, you don’t need to copy BSB settings for the road”🤣🤣, thanks for talking sense and keeping it real👍🏼

Very useful video mate much appreciated it ✌️

The messed up thing is that not only the suspension and the footpegs are adjusted for midgets; the whole rider triangle is tiny. Most bikes just aren't big enough to accommodate fully grown men (especially the hip to footpeg ratios are usually horrible). I'm 6'2" (1.88m and that's kind of "average" for a Dutch/northwestern European man like me...) and have never fit a bike well except for something like a big GS... shame, really, bikes need to grow a bit, when will the manufacturers realize that not everyone is a tiny, Japanese test rider...

Bloody good. Thanks !!

Interesting point about the brake lever. Mine tends to need more travel though on e the brakes heat up? 2000 honda cbr600fy. 12 previous owners! Got dirt cheap not long ago and is finally getting some tlc!

Excellent video!!

Thank you this was very helpful

This is gold!

Very interesting. Thanks!

Great information as always 👍

Great video Mr Neeves. I have some questions though. Thanks in advance for clarifying. I have a Japanese bike and keep my tyre pressures at manufacturers specs, but I'm probably twice as heavy as the average Japanese rider. Should I adjust tyre pressures due to my excessive weight or is there negligible difference?

Excellent. Thanks.

Sound advice. Why do manufacturers never give advice in the manual on the suspension based on actual weight?

Is social distancing responsible for Neeves hanging out by himself and making videos? Regardless, please keep up the Neeves content!

Yeah I still don’t see how preload can make it softer or harder. The bike is sitting on top of the spring and the bottom of the spring is sitting on the wheel and when you wind down the preload the bike sits up a bit higher off the spring but the spring is still the same temper as when it was set at the factory. Preload is good to keep the bike up level when you are going to add luggage or a pillion but can’t change the spring. Surely you have to buy a new spring if you want harder or softer. (Of course compression and rebound adjustments do make definite changes to suspension characteristics…) So I reckon preload is only to adjust rider sag not hardness of suspension. That’s my thought on it…

Really helpful comments 👍👍👍👍

Great video 🇬🇧👍🏻

Any chance you could explain how to go down on the knee for tall pilots ( 6’3”) as probably it will be bit different then for short ones. Is it possible for a tall guy to drag a knee??

Great video Old Chap

Brilliant vid thank you.

Brilliant video, very helpful, thank you ! I'd love some riding tips and stuff like that from Neevesy.

Go see Dave Moss's channel, he's a suspension tuner and has a awesome youtube channel.

Neeves, what you think about the tire Mitas Sport Force +? I am running one on the rear of my MT09, and hope to do a track day this year. On the front i have bt016, because there was still 70% life on them.

What about cornering ABS?

Awesome

Top Man!

hows Norton doing .. any more free test bikes ..for '' your'' con co.

Michael can you suggest best sport touring tyres available in the market?

Suzuki still provide solo and pillion numbers on the swingarm of the gixxer, which I do find amusing 🤐

Dude has forgot more about bike setup then we will ever know 👍

Hmmm. I like the guy, but have to disagree re. tyres. I’ve run race scrubs on my 899 for a while now, mainly due to how cheap they are. Never had any issues, and I ride on decent days thoughout the whole year. They warm up fine and give loads of grip. Placebo effect? Possibly. But they work for me and save me a fortune along the way.