Im using a pin on my jig, but love your use of aluminum in a vertical slot , much better design Im going to mod my jig soon. Love your tutorial and info on the blades👊🏻
That is a very nice setup indeed. Your video was very informational. I liked your deep dive into the different blade possibilities. I invested in a radial arm saw and StewMac fret slotting blade, but your system takes up much less space. I like it. Well done.
Thank You, was trying to find a mini table saw to cut notches for Kumiko Strips. This is very similar to having to cut frets for a guitars. Using a standard table saw is just too cumbersome.
There's also an option to get a saw blade for a regular table for cutting fret slots from Stew Mac. It shows up at $200.28 CAD. Where it attaches to the auger looks to be normal width, based on the picture, and then the last inch of the blade is set to the width that would be ideal for cutting fret slots.
This is something I've been wanting to try for a long time. But I was looking at saws a quarter the price and wasn't sure they'd be powerful enough. I guess that 37070 FET has a decent motor in it. I'm pleased you proved the concept though.
Hi Danial. Love your show man. You design the best jigs for sure. You also seem to have most of the hard to find answers to much of the craft. Perhaps the best teacher to date. Your Floyd Rose tutorial finally gave me an exact, measured step by step off the center line course of action. Like you said at the start, there is no blueprint offered by anyone on how to properly install the F.L. How about that three piece jig with the guide posts and the wall to back of hole measurement test of both sides being equal to ensure proper placement. Man, you are the shit.Thanks for all the wisdom my friend.
Very nice! I see you completely removing the work piece from the sled between cuts, I wonder how difficult it would be to move the blade out of the way rather than the work... Maybe by raising or tilting of sled. Maybe activate with a foot pedal...
Nice! Being in the USA I use a Hardware Freight Mighty Mite (around $40) and a sled... the Mighty Mite has flaws, most notably the motor is underpowered (and the height adjustment of the saw table is difficult and fiddly) but with some modifications it gets the job done (Del Puckett gives great advice for using the Mighty Mite)!
Thanks for the video. I was really excited to try this out and have just used the setup for the first time. However, the results were not as good as expected. First of all, the blade got very hot and began smoking after just a couple slots. I tried taking shallower cuts, but this of course risks widening the channel. Also, I found that if I cut the slot very slowly that it was quite precise at the start of the cut (ca. 0,55mm) and then wider at the exit of the cut (ca. 0,75mm!!). And this was with a brand new blade in East Indian rosewood. Do you have any suggestions as to how to make the process work better? I'd really like this setup to work!
Greetings from Portugal. Thank you for this amazing video, simple, informative and precise. By the way, have you tried to use it on ebony? How did it go? Keep up the good work.
Hi Daniel, Thanks for all the informative videos. They are very helpful and inspiring. Een vraagje; waar bestel je al dat mooie geprepareerde hout? Ik ben wel benieuwd en zelf op zoek naar een goede zaak hier in NL. Groetjes uit Leiden
Hi Daniel, again a fantastic video. I've ordered this machine already. Are there any plans for this sled in the final version available? That would be awesome.
Ik zit er aan te denken om ook deze machine aan te schaffen. Ik maak ook af en toe een gitaar en wat ik mij afvraag gebruik jij deze machine ook nog voor andere dingeb dab fretslots? Thnx
Really nice Daniel Question, I noticed you cut through, lift and go back. Many would bring back over blade, I assume thats a bad idea?? Thanks, Spike Hope you are ok?
If there is any movement at all in your setup you can easily make your slots too wide. When you pull your fretboard back over the blade do you hear any noise? I'm guessing that you do. That means that you are cutting on your "backstroke" as well.
Great video Daniel! I think I’ll unfortunately keep doing it by had as this machine costs over $850 in Australia. It said you were injured during the video, Hope you are doing well, what happened?
Any small cheap table saw you get through Bunnings will work, for that matter even a cheapie one from Aldi would too. The hard bit is finding the right blade locally. I use a Stewmac blade on a compound mitre saw. I also have a deWalt contractor saw I might use at some point when I get around to making a sled
Cool idea and looks it works great, but just thinking table saw from proxon is around 300e plus templates plus circle saw..... And if you work always on diferent scales you Ned more templates. It's not better to go to cnc? I know this can be much faster but you cannot do a multiscale and with cnc you can do it without problem and it's not so much more expensive. And if you have cnc you can do inlays perfect. And we talk about less than double price. Just thinking 🙂
Hi Rick, Yes, the sled does act as a zero clearance insert, but I thought it would be better to have it when making the sled itself. I was a bit worried about the blade thickness and thought the insert might help with that a little.
Wow that is an expensive little saw. Too rich for my blood. You can do the same with the $50 version from Harbor Freight and a decent 4 inch blade. It works a little slow and is somewhat underpowered, but still...it works. Or buy the StewMac blade for $135 and put it in my existing table saw. For your $500 set up, I will stick with my hand saw and little miter box jig.
Really nice Daniel Question, I noticed you cut through, lift and go back. Many would bring back over blade, I assume thats a bad idea?? Thanks, Spike Hope you are ok?
I'm not sure if it would be a bad idea to bring the sled/fretboard back over the blade, but I don't want to risk even the slightest deviation on the way back resulting in too wide a fret slot or something. Better safe than sorry.
I have a radial arm saw, runs very true, but I won't bring ti back through mine, when I build it. Now question is, would you cut from back coming forward down cut, or backwards, I guess it would be uncut. With radial arm saw, you can do both??? Enjoy your builds and videos, one day, I'll figure it out too.
@@jasonkirk1313 that is my normal process for cross cutting wood, but I normally just go back, as after a cross cut, you are doing nothing. But slotting frets, I see the need for one pass for sure to insure accuracy. But if I have to remove it from the saw every time, to reset would it matter,good, bad or indifferent if you started at the front, went back for you cut. Then you could move the jig, pull back the carriage slide it in again for another fret slot. either way, you have to take it out, to move the saw blade across? Would that cut direction work as well? I have electric lift control on my Radial arm saw, but the last thing, I want to do it change it, during a fret slot job. I have a small table saw, I have a sled for it, get the proper blade, but they are not cheap, but already have everything else. The blade is the same for my RAS and the Table saw one, from SM. watching this I think the Table saw is the way. Blade is $160 looks like
