Terrible News for Car Buyers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OTJT4XLhsHI.html Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► ru-vid.com/show-UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I've been a mechanic for 40yrs basically out of my garage and I "used" to enjoy it. I've talked to many dealer mechanics and have noticed a common theme. Even with modern diagnostic equipment the time it takes to replace a transmission in many vehicles requires teardowns that take up too much time and they get 8hrs to complete the job. Engineers have really thrown mechanics under the bus.
@@thisismagacountry1318 it's not just the year , it's there are certain pick-ups/vehicles that develope the same problems over and over. I personally prefer Fords with 4.6 engines. They've proven to be bullet proof. Chevys aren't bad either. I don't care for Dodge
You have been preaching, “get your used car check out by a mechanic before you buy” for as long as I have been watching you. That advice saved me five thousand dollars. What appeared to be a good car, I had checked out and the car was throwing a lot of transmission codes. The mechanic told me to stay away. It was only a matter of time before the transmission failed. Thank you Scotty!
Bring your own OBD scanner any time you’re going to evaluate a used car. Even like a little $50 one. Whether you know how to read live data or not it’s a poker-game move; you’ll find out a lot about the car by watching how the SELLER reacts when you pull out a scanner! 😂
I'm a retired motorcycle technician and machinist from 1979 and now I'm in parts, accessories and service and repair. I always tell our customers to Remove the new oil filter from the box, remove the plastic cover, set in the box upsidedown and fill it with new oil and coat the o-ring prior to installation while the engine is warming up getting the oil up close to operating temperature and to get any impurities that have settled to the bottom of the engine mixed in with the oil. Shut the engine off, drain the oil, remove the old oil filter making sure the o-ring is still in the filter and not on the engine, clean the oil filter surface on the engine, replace the drain plug gasket if it's aluminum or an o-ring if it's flattened, and torque to factory specs. By the time all is done when you go to put the oil filter on it would have absorbed 95° of the oil and even if it screws on sideways you may only lose a tablespoon of oil not like Scotty says to put it on right after it's filled 🤪 and tighten to specs. If this is done this way, you'll notice the oil light "if the bike has one" will turn off 3 -5 seconds quicker than if the filter was not filled. Out of the thousands of bikes I worked on I only seen one bike that the oil light didn't turn off because of an air lock so all I did was loosened the filter just enough for the air to escape allowing proper oil flow then retightened it. From what I understand if it's a diesel engine this must be done also if changing the fuel filter which is basically priming the system. Even if Scotty say you don't have to do it, I'm still doing it because it takes very little time and there's no negative results.
@@felipetejeda7545 Coming from someone who's probably never turned a wrench, but if you have, then you're pretty ignorant as to what I wrote and not learn something from someone with probably more years experience than your age. When it comes to what I wrote, it never gets outdated.
@@cliffords.8341the description you wrote above, these are exactly the same steps that I use when doing my oil changes, and it has never done me wrong. The only mess-up I did was forgetting to put the drain plug back on, and pouring the new oil in the engine. As you can imagine, it made a big mess on the floor. 🤨 but lesson learned, now I torque the drain plug…haven’t made the mess since.
Scotty. Modern spin on filters do not drain after they’re full. They have back drain valves. You know that. Remember every time you remove a filter it’s clear full of oil.
@@mplslawnguy3389 yup, the upside down oil filter on my Subaru has oil in it because of the anti drain back valve. I can put oil in the filter and install it without the oil “falling out” like he said it would
@@boondockmutiny9955 Still, there's really no reason to do it. If it makes you happy, go ahead, but I've never done it and everything has been just fine.
When Scotty talks......People are always listening.......to save our car and money......some times even our life..... Thank you Sir Scotty.....for all your good works......take good care.....all the best!
Scotty, the description reads, "Never do this when changing your engine oil;" the photo show someone pouring oil into the engine. "Never," is a big word. I've watched this video twice and still don't see what we should, "never," do. What are you warning not to do?
I'm glad Scotty touched on the issues of plastic oil pans. I bought a new 2020 Mustang GT and I never liked the idea of it having a plastic oil pan. I wanted to trade up for a Ford Explorer ST, but they had plastic oil pans too. I traded the Mustang for a 2022 Dodge Charger Scat Pack--and I'm loving its metal pan! I would never buy another Ford product with a plastic oil pan. And if you researched their Raptors, you would see at one time their pans were plastic also, but then they switched back to metal--why!
@@luuk-out-below9804 wrong. They do not. I’ve been using the same plug for 5 years. I ring and plug still work just like the day I got the truck. I hate the internet. People just make stuff up and repeat crap they hear that has no basis in reality.
The pan test is on RU-vid. The plastic can't hold up to abrasion but it may be stronger in rigidity. Is that good? Hard to say except the hot oil will make it brittle over time. That can crack and then it's game over. Engine scrapped
I had a vehicle checked out by a mechanic because vehicle was 1100 miles away. Took pictures, checked things out off site. Mechanics pictures didn't match pictures posted on dealer site. I knew about damage, but it was far worse than dealership claimed. So thankful I had inspected by a qualified mechanic!!
Using anti-seize increases the torque applied by 25%. If you use it on bolts you should decrease the torque applied by 25% to get the same applied torque value otherwise you will over torque the fasteners that have anti-seize applied to them.
Never heard that not saying your wrong I've been working on cars since I was in high school im 65 years old and graduated in 1975 from a vo tech,a mechanic that says he knows everything and doesn't learn something new every day or week probably is a crappy mechanic
I would want to know the exact method that was used to measure this claim. I don't trust anyone that makes claims but can't justify it with repeatable testing by another source. I would think that using multiple torque wrenches of different brands might be enough, but it wasn't stated.
I'm not talking about filling up the oil-filter, but rather, just "wetting" the gasket of the new oil-filter with some oil before screwing it on. You don't need to douse it, or pour oil on it, just run an oil-dipped finger over the new gasket *before* screwing it on.
They say to use the new oil to lube the gasket, but the only reason I can imagine why is because they don't want to be called out for suggesting touching carcinogenic material, if you're not using gloves. The reason to lube it at all, is to easily tighten the filter by hand and have it not come loose. Also to reduce friction from trying to peel apart the gasket. In moments, the oil squeezes out and the gasket grips the surface.
Pouring oil in the new filter before you install it is an old hot rodders trick. Guys used to do that to help the oil flow faster through the engine. In the days of organic oil it did make some sense to do that. Now it really doesn't make much difference. It's one of those things that it doesn't really help or hurt anything.
Gates are often suppliers of OEM equipment, I used to work for Renault and they use Gates timing belts, you paid double for the Renault packaged one than you would for the exact same Gates belt from a motor factor.
A good rule of thumb to always keep in the back of your mind, the dealership aka stealership is out to make money, they're not always the most honest. Plus they're notorious for marked up prices on parts and services. Me personally, if I can buy the same part online that's OEM grade from say Rockauto and save myself some money, I'll do it and even change the part myself. The dealership IMO is just a conveience factor.
Interesting about the oil filter! For fear of auto mechanics"hyenas" I have been secretly changing my oil filters every 3rd of oil change or once a year. I thought I am the only one not very worried about the oil filter!
I don’t trust any shop to change my oil, they just use the cheapest stuff they buy in bulk and whatever they have available. I only use genuine Toyota filters and quality oil.
Never filled a filter at oil change time. Honda, Chevy, Nissan, Mercedes Benz, dealer tech, 4 yrs in the Marines motor t. Got a fleet now, 9 vehicles on the road, plus diesel and gas engine equipment. 48 yrs later, never had a problem.
Surely the sensible thing is to first circulate the new engine oil around the engine using the battery for say 20 secs whilst preventing the engine fire-up? That will fill the oil filter and get oil to the top of the engine. All you need to know is which relay controls the fuel supply and pull this out. If it's a computer-ridden engine then help from some geek is needed, no doubt!!
Hi, Scotty, I haven't had the chance to watch this all the way through, so you may have covered this, but I just got a new Subaru Crosstrek with the 2-liter horizontal four-cylinder engine. As you know, the oil filter in this engine is mounted with the gasket down and the filter can up so that without an anti-drain valve the filter would be empty on every start. I saw a video showing the start-up after an oil change. The tech held the gas pedal to the floor while cranking to keep the engine from starting and cranked in intervals no more than thirty seconds until the oil pressure light went out, then started the car normally because then the oil filter would be full.
I holed my oil pan. I priced up a new one and took the old one to a local welding shop. They misquoted me (by a lot - $20->$80) and ended up charging me more than the price of a new (aftermarket) one.
My RAM is cheap to maintain. Oil and air filter. The brakes have lasted 78000 miles. Now you may know why ...because I drive gently. I wonder why Mazdas are expensive to maintain. Anyone know?
On a filter that is upside down, I don't fill the filter but I do pour some oil inside the filter in order to coat it, it helps, and you're not starting the engine with a completely dry filter, I don't care what anyone says. When you shut the engine, yes the filter drains somewhat but it doesn't dry out!
Lubricating wheel studs is a bad idea because the torque spec is based on achieving a particular preload in the stud. When you lubricate the stud and lower the coefficient of friction between the studs and nuts, the same torque will produce a much higher preload. So the spec torque would essentially be like over torquing them and you will eventually start breaking wheel studs. If you have rusted studs, clean them up, or replace them, but don’t lube them.
@@brettymike Manufacturers most often specifically say to not put any lubricants on wheel studs because their torque specifications produce the design preload based on the coefficient of friction with dry threads. If you lubricate the threads and use the specified torque values, you could be putting as much as twice the design preload in the studs, which will eventually cause failure. If all else fails, read the instructions.
@@brettymike Good for you. I too am a real engineer (ChE with ME minor) and have real world experience with this issue. Someone at a shop quite a few years ago put anti-seize on the studs of my MR2 Turbo track car. I told him he was wrong about lubricating wheel studs and he argued with me. Most owners manuals specifically say to not lubricate wheel studs. But I didn’t clean it off right away, figured there was probably enough safety factor in the studs that it would be OK until it wore off. Wrong! The wheels were obviously being removed and reinstalled onto this car with some frequency since it was seeing a lot of track use. Within a year, my studs started breaking off prior to reaching the 76 ft-lb torque spec. After the 2nd one broke off, I replaced all 20 and they have been fine since. Thank goodness they didn’t fail on the track and cause loss of a wheel. The failure was from fatigue due to repeated over preloading due to the slippery threads.
@@Heretic10001 I am also an inventor (put that in your pipe and smoke it :). You had dud (bad) studs you weren't keeping an eye on, and they were being overtightened too much. As I say, 50+ years experience has been my teacher (working on 1000's of vehicles in my own business). I have had troubles ONLY with DRY studs over the years.
After decades of dealership experience, cars were always allowed to go to independent mechanics with customers. However the sale was written up and then predicated on the mechanics A-OK. This would prevent customers who could not buy anything or just wanted to use that car/truck for personal use usually over a weekend.
Dear Scotty, One exception to filling the oil filter with oil. My van has a diesel engine and I once made the mistake of not filling the oil filter after a change and I created a major hassle for myself. These engines have a safety that will not allow the engine to run or start without oil. An empty oil filter is read as no oil. So I ended up having to bypass a sensor in order to start the engine and get oil circulating. I'll never make that mistake again.
Not necessarily. My brother's 96 Nissen pickup's 5 speed manual shifting fork wore out the case and he had to buy a rebuilt tranny. Piss poor engineering as it should have had a brass bushing for the fork to move through instead of the soft aluminum case.
Unless you drain the old engine oil for days and extract every last drop, there will be enough residual oil on the engine components to protect them until the fresh oil is pumped round the engine (which only takes seconds - note how quickly the oil pressure warning light goes out) when you start it after an oil change, Modern synthetic oils "cling", too, which helps.
Exactly, as long as you fill up with the right viscosity and grade of oil, your engine will be properly lubricated in seconds. Could be a problem if you used to heavy of an oil in cold temperatures but otherwise you’d be safe.
Could it be that some people carried over the idea of pouring oil into oil filters from diesel fuel filters? They can need to be filled before installation.
I don't fill the filter on my 2000 Merc Mountaineer (mounts sideways, dontcha know) , but I absolutely run some fresh oil around the gasket & wipe down the metal where it mounts up, make sure there's nothing between the gasket & the motor.
Yes Scotty there are a few oil filters that are interchangeable one has antiflow back valve and the other one does not aa in Dodge 225 Slamt six has oil filter is upside down so you do not want to use the Ford oil filter with no antiflow back valve
Wow thanks for clarifying this. I obsessed over this for long time. My Subaru has upside down oil filter and you can’t fill it with oil and then install. I do the flood mode deal and prime it when changed the oil at 1200 miles for first time. It was probably not necessary now that I know this information. I was going by very old advice all these years
Subaru CVTs rarely have sliping issues. They had a valve body issue that if not corrected would cause a slipping issue. I have a 2016 crosstrek with 250k and I abuse the crap out of it. I mean pulling full size pick ups out of the ditch. I pulled a LR6 down an ally with 2 feet of snow. The dealer noticed that it is starting to make a little noise and offerd to make a claim with subaru of America to see if they would replace it or attest discount the price of a new one. That was even after me telling the service writer that I abuse the crap out of the car. I was having a wheel bearing replace at Walser subaru because they charge 375 flat for a wheel hub replacement and that is dirt cheep if you have ever changed one on a subaru.
@Melissa’s Mess yeh they tend to fail first but that particular style of bearing is found across a bunch of manufacturers and it fair about the same. They are shallow grove ball bearing and are not good with side/thrust loading or impact. You will find a moderate impact like hitting a curb will damage the bearing. The front bearing tend to get the majority of loading and impacts in the direction that was designed for. Honestly caged roller bearings would last far longer in the rear but they are more expensive and they take longer to manufacturers and install. Subaru calls for I think 85 or 90k on the "service interval". My 84 GL Wagon had conical roller bearing that took way more abuse and all I had to do was repack them. The car had 330k on it when I sold it.
Disagree with first topic regarding the pre-filling the oil filter, at least for some cars. If installed on top they have internal one way valves to prevent empting for a reason . Almost all engines take the pick-up tube direct to the filter. If its dry, you have time gaps in the lubrication. Sorry man, anything from VAG at least, needs oil filter saturation prior to running. Or, remove injector and coil pack electric connections and rotate engine for 5 - 10 seconds prior to starting. Re: sparkplugs, dielectric grease on aluminum heads is so important to prevent galvanic welding. Also, torque settings need to be considered if you lube wheel nuts. eek Gates are awesome.
My daughter bought a 2014 Subaru, used, and the transmission went after about 4 months. Got a brand new one from Subaru and that went after a couple of months. Got another one and that seems to be fine so far.
Spark plug anti seze. If you use Aviation champion spark plug anti seze it is. Water based. That is the correct process for spark plug install. I live on the sea coast in Alaska as well as all the salt thats used on the roads here.
Cars & trucks with ges engines use small filters so it doesn't take long for the pump to fill the filter then to build pressure. But on diesels most use a 1qt filter & I always fill before installing.
good to see scotty come around on the subarus. their cvts never had a problems. not sure why he mentions they did. also they developed their own chain for them. not a toyota thing
Anti-drainback valve This membrane obscures the holes through which dirty oil gets into the filter. The purpose of the anti-drainback valve is to prevent the oil from escaping from the filter when the engine is switched off.
Talking about filling the oil filter before installing, I personally think it is a bad idea. One car a customer had serviced brought it to me by tow truck, because the oil light would not go out. The oil pressure switch was fine, being new. I eventually found out the previous workshop that serviced the car, had filled the filter with oil. This created an air lock in the lubrication system, stopping the oil pump doing it's job, I drained the filter, & problem was fixed.
Yes, I'm an absolute fanatic. And I hear a few seconds difference in the valvetrain noise on initial startup after the oil change. Credit Toyota for the good sense of mounting the oil filter in a manner that allows filling the filter on the 2GR-FE in my Camry, the 1ZZ-FE in the Corolla, and the 2AZ in the wife's Corolla. Too bad they didn't do this on all their engines.
Got a 2004 Avalon with the dependable 3.0 couple battle scars and 187K miles. Last year for the bench seat and rides like a small boat like Buick. Dont think any car would suit me better. I'll just keep IT.
In reference to Serpentine belts, I always buy the Goodyear Gatorback belts..... Great name and quality for as long as I can remember and affordable...
i rebuilt a porsche 3.2 engine filled it with oil and turned it by a ratchet aprox 10 times with the oil pressure switch removed which is mounted at the furthest point on head from the oil pump and that was from a dry rebuilt engine ...
I gather some filters have a valve to prevent draining when the engine is not running. In addition I believe that lubricating certain threads such as plugs and wheel bolts can lead to over tightening.
I have seen dirt in plastic oil containers...gotta realize that oil bottlers get 10s of thousands of bottles on a pallet, those plastic bottles sit until they get filled and capped...
I do pour a quart in n let it drain out before I put the plug back in. You will see that when that 1 quart starts to drain it's dark n nasty then by the end of it it's clean as when put in. It gets the last of crap n bad oil out
I just put some in to soak the filter media. Not so much it flows out when I spin the new one on. Just something I do. I know it’s not needed or required.
My mechanic offered a 2-tier inspection: Outside-the-shop quick look over for a lower price, and if it passed that, then he'd take it into the garage for a full-blown look for more money. He eliminated two cars with the quick look and approved the 3rd after a full inspection.
Scotty, I love all your videos but I have to correct you on this one. The newer filters that are upside down like on my Subaru Crosstrek have an anti drain back valve in the filter to prevent the oil from draining back in the oil pan. Keep the videos coming.
10+ years changing oil for a living and I would only pre-fill a vertical screw-on filter, on a vehicle with a turbo. Also diesels. That's it. the other types don't need it.
When I change the oil on my Subaru Forrester, I normally just put it in flood clear mood and crank the engine for were 10 to 15 seconds to build some oil pressure
I've heard that one reason not to pre-fill the oil filter is that it can introduce contaminants on the downstream side of the filter medium. Probably not a major concern, but I've never seen any official advice to pre-fill the filter. Oiling the gasket, sure, but not pre-filling. As for using anti-seize where it's not specified, my understanding is that the real problem is that it can result in over-torquing.
Eh not a fair concern, any time you put in a new filter you risk introducing contaminants, whether you pour in oil or not, it’s exposed to the elements before you screw it on.
Filling the oil filter when changing the oil was often necessary on the old Buick V8's and V6's and Cadillac V8's with the externally mounted oil pump as it would often lose it's prime and never pick oil up again until the pump was opened up and packed with vasoline. It's not really needed on new cars with spur pumps or pumps submerged in the oil near the bottom of the oil pan. Does save a little low oil pressure time if the filter is mounted at an angle in which it can be filled and mounted easily.
Scotty what do you think of the 2019 Ford fusion, have you seen or heard of any problems with this car. Also love your knowledge you give out to us viewer’s, keep up the good work.
The friction surface of an engine isn't 100% smooth. There are miniscule cross hatch valleys on the surface. These valleys hold films of oil that lubricates before the changed oil reaches, after an oil change; so you don't need to fill a new filter with new oil. Still it doesn't hurt, if it makes you comfortable!
No Scotty no. There is such a thing as a anti flow back valve on your oil filters. Yes, it is a good idea to prime your oil filters ESPECIALLY the upside down ones, as oil takes ages to get through a brand new oil filter.
Thank goodness my car doesn’t use spin-on filters! Cartridges that snap down in, (from the top), and a heavy plastic cap that screws on. I hate spin-ons!
I once bought an old Mercedes, said yep will buy car but on condition it was checked over by my mechanic. Agreed to pay $150.00 if I did not go ahead or $50.00 to get the guy back to the dealership if I did. Car turned out ok, 2 easy problems identified but I then knew what I was buying, transferred the money and gave the guy $50.00 to get home, cheap piece of mind.
Don’t Toyota filters have a backflow valve like on a Tacoma V6. That filter is upside down so every time you start it the filter would by empty. Soooo get a Toyota filter for the backflow valve ??? Especially if it’s mounted upside down.
You don't need to do it as long as there is enough oil in the engine and the oil pump picks up oil and pumps it is what is important. Oil pump is what can't run dry.
