Nice! I've thought about using these sewing motors for machine builds for a while. The 500w ~4000rpm would make them ideal for drill press, mini grinder type projects.
"A short glimpse and the situation is clear: I have absolutely no clue about electronics!" I like the cut of your jib, as i do the same thing, but i am learning.
0:40 - for those connectors, there is a small "latch" built into the socket side. When you press it, it releases a bent metal pin that fits into a hole on the plug and locks it. You can press the latch after sliding back the plastic over-cover, it's possible with bare finger but easier to do with a small screwdriver or something similar to poke it with..
Thank you for this tip! I really didn't know this. I thought you can just pull them apart but it really was impossible to seperate these connectors :) Thanks.
To switch rotation you have to swap phase and hall sensor wires. I have done it by swapping: BLUE/BLACK wires ( thick ones) at phase cable and blue/yellow at hall sensor cable (thin ones). You can do it by relay or mechanical switch. For control speed you can use potentiometer 500R + resistor 330R at ground side in series. Be carefull there is a hot ground inside a box. I also move inverter parts from brushless motor case to original from lathe.
Clever solution to the problem of the lathe's original motor dying, and not just that but an improvement over the previous motor as well! However there is one thing I would definitely have done differently. The new motor produces a maximum of 4500 RPM, waaaay too much for a lathe, even for working on tiny aluminium parts. You would get a fair bit more out of both that motor and your lathe by using a 2:1 speed reduction, giving you an ideal 2250 RPM at double the amount of torque.
Nice upgrade! For the speed, my advise would be to measure the range of ohms on the foot pedal. You can then buy a potentiometer with the same range and use it like you did before with the speed knob.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, to use a potentiometer instead of the pedal switch seems to be working. My plan is at the moment to use the pedal switch as it is and implement it in a more convenient manner. I have something in mind but not sure, if I can build it that way:)
I have the same exact kit. If you take apart the foot pedal, it’s just a linear Hall effect sensor. You can simply hook up a 4.7K/5K potentiometer to its 5V, GND and signal wires. This is what I did. You’ll have some “dead play” in the beginning of the rotation since your voltage threshold is lower with the pot, but it’ll work.
@Catrpilla The easiest way is to file a groove into the end of a bolt to match the thickness of the speed lever and then screw it into a 90 degree bracket with a flange nut the same diameter as the bolt and use the head of the bolt as a knob to adjust the speed . . I was wondering though about its performance when machining at low speed when the lathe is under load
Another RU-vidr created a horizontal hex shaft connected to a traditional lathe carriage mount handle for the on off, speed and direction control. The hex shaft moves the magnet from the factory switch assembly to enable to reuse the hall effect sensor. A micro switch for on off also as the factory did it. I should grab his channel name... We Can Do That Better posted around November 2022.
I already liked your videos, but they keep getting better and better. Nice editing and camera setups! Also: this upgrade is very interesting. I'm thinking about buing a minilathe. Just so I can upgrade it ;-)
A couple of years ago I went all 3 phase so I used a 3/4 HP 3,000 rpm 3 phase motor with an AT1 VFD..........motor was A$120 and VFD A$90........to get the extra torque for slow running on load I used a belt drive reduction of 1:2......3 phase motors on VFD's don't like running slow if connected 1:1.
inspired by your video I order the servo motor. but I faces some difficulties finding the right pulleys and belt, so I decide to remove the rotor and rework the shaft to 8mm. Now I am waiting for the new belt to finish it. thanks for sharing, your skills are really inspirational.
Quite nice idea for a motor/drive substitution or rather better to say: improvement !?! - perfect 👍🏻. I'll keep that solution in my mind for my mini lathe. Nice Video, as always. Weiter so!
I deal with sewing machine repairs and was going to do this exact same thing as my mini lathe packed up 😄 thank you for the video. Now I've got more confidence to set it up
A 10 turn potentiometer, Bourne makes some nice ones, with the same resistance sweep as the sewing machine speed controller would provide a very accurate fine adjustment. You can install a mechanical indicator on the shaft of the potentiometer to indicate which turn you're on and or install a tachometer.
Thanks for your comment. I've heard that using a potentiometer is a good way of controlling the speed and getting rid of the foot pedal. At the moment I'm planning to keep the pedal switch and implement it in a more suitable way. We'll see if that works.
Muy buenas, tu video me parece muy útil, yo tengo que modificar mi torno. Podrías decirme que referencia es, he visto que hay varias. Un saludo y gracias
Moin , hier noch mal Horst , Danke für die Grüße, Bitte wenn möglich die Motordaten ,den Preis und den Shop . Habe so eine Drehmaschine mit nur einem Gang 550 Watt, die ist Sehr sehr schwach, zb. beim Stahl oder Gewinde drehen . Habe Provisorisch erstmal eine Zweigang 800Watt Bohrmaschine 1.Gang angebaut , so dass ich minimal ca.400 Umin. habe , besser wäre 100 Umin. bei voller Leistung. Gruß Horst ( wo bist du zu Hause )
Well done, thanks for sharing. Can you provide a link or a brand/model for this motor kit? I'm curious about the price and if it would be strong enough for other applications like my band saw.
Look on Amazon for "Consew" motors. They're available in several power ranges, and they're not too expensive. I got a 3/4 horse one for my lathe, which--of course--I haven't ever gotten around to installing.
@@nefariousyawn It's on the list! It's going to be part of a CNC rework, and there's a bunch of other details on that side of things that I have to finish figuring out too.
Some time it is just the potentiometer cables loose on the board side (Blue terminals), the Symptoms : Lathe start in high speed all the time in forward and reverse.
Very interesting, as a friend and myself both have Taig lathes (called Peatol in UK) and have been wondering about new motors for them. This was certainly helpful, thank you. Keep doing what you do, your videos are good. Les in UK
@@ianbertenshaw4350 never had any trouble with the Taig belt. I have a spare in stock but never needed to change it, despite looking puny it holds up well. But if I go along the route shown here I would change to a similar belt to that shown, as there will be no need to swap the belt from pulley to pulley. I’m looking at the 550 Watt version of this motor, as there is no need to use the larger version on a Taig lathe, it would just over-power the lathe and likely cause trouble. Les
Yes, this definitely paid off. Was the right decision to switch to this motor expecially with the new start lever on the carriage this is really smooth to use.
I'm the friend mentioned by Leslie Austin in a comment....and I agree, this video presents and excellent new idea for our Taig mini lathes. Would like to explore this further but first quick search search for a suitable sewing machine motor didn't show anything suitable....any tips on where to find one would be very useful. Great video, thanks.
Hi and thanks for your comment! You can find these motors on ebay. Just search for industrial sewing machine servo motor. Mine has 550W but there are different options too.
Hi, in the meantime I made a video on installing a On-Off-lever to the lathes bedslide for operation the machine. That is really convenient. I will definitely later add a rpm indicator too to the machine. But at first I have to install the proper electrical cabinet which is flying around for over a year now. Should be comming soon.
I bought a similar lathe one year ago. Its from 1999 and i have almost the same issues with it like you (but my motor still runs). Therefore I am verry interisted in your videos and solutions. Weiter so, Grüße.
Very nice vid. What are the outer/overall dimensions of the motor? I want to buy one for a DIY project, but I have a very limited space. It''s a shame the lack of tech specs for those cheap products.
I like it. Simple yet effective and efficient solution to your motor blowing up. I replaced the motor on my Unimat DB200 with a brushless but instead used a potentiometer. Works great.
Pass übrigens auf mit dem was als 5V beschriftet ist (Pedalsensor). Das ist nicht von den 230V getrennt! Also 230V gegen Erde. Du kannst dir denken wie ich das festgestellt habe ;)
@@506d6a Ja, deswegen warne ich davor. Ich bin selbst Industrieelektriker und stand dabei auf einer Isoliermatte, hilft aber nicht wenns von einem zum anderen Finger geht. Hauptsache nicht übers Herz....
Danke für den Hinweis! Heißt das, so wie ich den Pedalschalter gerade provisorisch montiert habe und bediene ist es lebensgefährlich oder zumindest fahrlässig? Wie kann ich da auf Nummer sicher gehen, dass nichts passier?
I have the exact same unit and you can adjust the speed with a potentiometer but be aware the 5v rail is referenced to mains so it can give you a shock . use a pot with a nylon shaft or a rotary hall effect pot .
Hi and thanks. Yes I heard that a potentiometer works as well but seems to be a bit dangerous in use. At the moment I'm planning to someway implement the original pedal switch. That should be safe:)
Using a cordless drill to run the lathe... That's a new one. Anyway, some Chinesium lathes actually comes with a brushless motor these days. SIEG has two, the SC2 and SC3. (Known as 'Super SIEGs'... They're not all that super. Doesn't even come with a cape, but they do have decent torque. ) Something to think about for those who are in the market.
l gutted mine, gave all the pieces and motor to wire guy geek l know, put a/c motor behind lathe with just on-off switch, V-belts a pulleys, and did steve jordan pulley spindle mount too! its a 5&1/2". No mother boards, nothing but on-off switch.
The advantage of that is that you get much better torque at low speed. Firstly, the AC motor has maximum torque at zero revs, and secondly you are using pulleys to multiply the torque at low revs. The standard "single-gear" DC motors (no matter if brushless or not) will not have the same grunt at low speed, which is actually where you need it the most.
Thanks for your comment! Good question. So far the motor runs as new. As it is branded as industrial sewing motor, I guess it should last a little bit. The motor has a fan at its back, so overheating should be no problem.
@WeCanDoThatBetter Thank you, honestly. I used to watch your channel. Liked it a lot but turned away because I just don't want to have to read your thoughts on the screen. Having you speak makes the difference. I'm re-subscribbed and will be here to watch and learn as long as you plan to not make me read. 😇
Awesome video. I've just bought a nice old lathe, but it needs a new motor because currently the way it's cobbled together means it lacks any form of speed control. I'd come across these motors and was wondering if they'd work, so thanks for answering my question! Is it still working well 6 months later?
Thanks for your comment! Yes, it works just fine. I'm really happy with the motor. I recently made a proper start stop lever and now it's just perfect to use.
Hi, I built the pulleys by myself and made a video on it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ElnAUvPz-ZM.html&lc=Ugyytigk2CV1ejw8gK14AaABAg.9jn96sd1Pfa9jnAg-dRanU
You have to press the yellow button on the controller for 1 or 2 seconds to reverse the spindle speed. That is a little bit annoying on this type of motor and controller.
Thank you very much! For on and off I installed a proper lever to the lathes bedslide. You find a video on this on my channel. The final video about the new electrical cabinet follows soon.
You mean an emergency switch? My plan is to install a proper electrical cabinet soon. You can already see it in the end of the video. There will be a emergency cut off implemented.
Did same mod 2years ago do not join speed controller to lathe have it separate I had chatter and it shorted speed controller and electronics which I’ve replaced With same would be interested if you can incorporate a potentiometer to replace Original speed controller
Hi, the max speed of the motor is 4500 rpm I guess. The max spindle speed depends on the gear ratio you have. In my case the spindle turns at about 2500 max.
Good job! I see at 0:20 that your lathe has 4 ground ring terminals screwed onto the headstock. I imagine one of them is the mains earth ground and another one grounds the motor case. Where are the other two wires connected to?
On the bay but there is a potentiometer kit you can pick up specifically for this mod. I picked up 3 and they all work well. Running one on a mill and the other two on 7x14 lathes. I really want to figure out a way to quickly switch direction for threading.
Hi, thats interesting! Didn't know that there is already a conversion kit available. And yes, the direction change is the only thing which is quite annoying. I think it would be sufficient if you just have to press the reverse button once short. But every time waiting the few seconds really gets on your nerves :) But no idea if it's possible to change this.
I done a brushless sewing machine motor conversation some time ago.i mounted the motor on a steel plate and removed all the internal gears and use a large pulley wheel straight onto the back of the spindle very simple very powerful.small clip search my name Terry griss.
Hi and thanks for your comment! I viewed your video. Interesting setup too! I wanted to keep the gear as I often use the lower gear for threading and when higher torque is needed. Where do you get the tailstock from? It looks extremely cool and much sturdier than the original one. I definitely need one :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter the tail stock is standard supplied with the lathe I bought it from amadeal in London the cj18a. as for low speed torque nine has loads I can't stall it even at very low speed because of the pulley gear 2 to 1 reduction max spindle speed is 2200rpm so no gears needed.i took the spring off the speed control handle and mounted it in a 3d printed control box.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yes the handle is a little loose with out the spring so what I did was put a piece of rubber with a slot through the opening which rubs against the handle and also keeps swarf out.
@@terrygriss4132 Sounds very clever :) I have some plans for the handle, but we'll see if it works as expectet. But there are some other projects first to finish... :o
Hi, yes these belts can slip when not properly under tension or when the belt is to small (not enough v rips) for the power to transmit. But they run smoother than a tooth belt and for my application I think this drive is working really well. I had once or twice a little bit of slippage at low rpm with a big drill. In this case I think it is better the belt slips than something else breaks :)
You have good eyes ;) The missing screw collided with the lathe casting, so I didn't install it. Later I changed to countersunk screws and could use all 4 of them without collision.
These come up in multiple power levels up to 1500W. Do you think it would be blasphemy to mount something like this on a smaller machine? How much torque does the 500W version have, compared to stock motor?
Hi, I think 1500W is absolutely overkill for a lathe as small as mine in the video. The 550W Motor I'm using seems strong enough for my application. Compared to the stock motor is has a much higher torque at low rpm. I never stalled it so far. The 750W version might be worth thinking about, especially when the lathe is a little bit bigger.
I wouldn't call it blasphemy, but rather just completely useless. The only thing you need higher power for is if you want to take a large depth of cut (DOC) in hard metals such as (hardened) high carbon or alloy steel. A 1500W motor would do suitably well for that. However in order to be able to take large DOCs in hard metals a lathe doesn't just need a lot more power, but also several other properties (much bigger, stronger and heavier lathe bed, bigger, and stronger spindle, proper spindle bearings, bigger and stronger carriage and if its used the crossfeed as well) which small lathes like these completely lack. Hence why putting anything over 1000W or probably even 800W on a lathe this size is utterly useless.
@@erichasu737 Bolting a mini lathe down to a concrete bed is definitely going to make quite an improvement in rigidity, about a factor of 3. Bolting it down to a thick (20-40 mm) steel base instead of concrete would also make a considerable improvement. There's a good video on RU-vid of someone who bolted his mini lathe onto a thick steel plate and measured the amount of flex in the lathe before and after, it's definitely worth watching.
Thanks! Good question. I've never tested if the motor gets warm. I has a fan and I don't think that heat is an issue here. I would use it for a milling machine as well, yes.
Just fitted mine, so easy. Mine isnt the same as this lathe though but all went in so easy. I dont have a gear box hi-lo but to change hi-lo i have to move one of the 2 belts. Works great but would rather have a potentiometer than the lever provided.
Nice to hear it works for you as well. There are ways of installing a potentiometer instead of the pedal switch. But this is electrically a bit dangerous.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yes i read that it was dangerous so i will see if anyone else comes up with a good solution. Meanwhile i will use the lever now i have taken the spring off.
Unfortunately I don't understand russian. How did you do the reverse button? On my controller I have to press the little "s" button for about 1 second to reverse. That is a bit annoying. Would be better if just one short press will reverse.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter На моем канале под видео про мотор есть ссылка на форум там в деталях все расписано. а встроенный переводчик в браузер гугл поможет с переводом!!!
I hate it when someone shows a motor modification but then never says where you got it. Looks like the bracket worked out well and an interesting way to run the lathe temporarily..
Hi and thanks for your comment. First I wanted to keep the tooth belt. But the pulley I purchased for the new motor didn't fit exactly to the weird uncommon profile they used on this machine from factory. So I decided to switch to poly v as I wanted to try that out and poly v belts usually run smoother than tooth belts. So far I don't regret that conversion. Off course, they are more likely to slip but I keep that as the weak point. Better than breaking gears :)
@@dussel07 Ja, ich kann es wirklich empfehlen. Das einzige, das etwas gewöhnungsbedürftig ist, ist der Pedalschalter als Ein- und Ausschalter. Ich habe das so implementiert, dass ich jetzt einen An-Aus-Hebel am Bettschlitten habe. Das ist extrem bequem und prakitsch und - wie ich finde - die beste Lösung die Maschine zu schalten. Allerdings ist das recht aufwendig umzusetzen. Du kannst es im einem Video von mir sehen. Es gibt noch die Möglichkeit, statt dem Pedalschalter ganz normal einen An- Aus-Schalter einzubauen und ein Potentiometer. Dazu gibt es im Internet auch Anleitungen. Natürlich kann man auch einfach den originalen Pedalschalter erstmal verwenden, habe ich auch gemacht :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I just ordered a 100mm spindle. I was debating the same. But there was a sale on 100mm chucks and I needed new chucks anyway, so it would be the same price for 2 80mm chucks as it was for a spindle and 2 chucks
As far as I can tell from 3 months of use 550W is plenty enough for what I am doing. I have never stalled the motor so far, only the belt drive slipped once.
