Very interesting. On a Porsche that I had years ago I had a set of Yokahama A008Ps that I carefully rotated frequently to equalize treadwear. I timed the point when the tread wore down to zero to the beginning of our dry season in San Diego and so I was able to drive the car for quite a while on slick tires. The handling was fantastic, above the already great handling of the tire and I had no problem. On the rare occasion when I did encounter water on the road I would just slow down and drive more carefully and so I never had an issue. However, when my wife found out that I was driving on slicks she made me go out and buy new tires😟
That was the 2018 Camry. Looked into it myself this year, but read all the negative reviews of how much molded plastic Toyota used this time around, making the interior look and feel so blah. An untrained eye will like all the curves in the console though.
True that on the average economy tyre it will grain performance with wear, but UHP road tyres with much softer compounds are susceptible to heat cycles. So if you push them get them hot you will change the compound over time and make it harder, losing dry performance with wear.
I really like tire videos. I also really like when you use sponsored content to make high quality educational content with connections. Great video, really hope to see a video in that testing facility. Also want a video in the factory if you ever get the chance- I would love to see the molding process and tooling
Glad you enjoyed it! Something often overlooked (that you pointed out quite accurately) is that sponsored content generally provides access to engineers and product managers that I typically wouldn't have the ability to speak with, especially not for long durations on a single project. It's great to be able to pick their brains for information, and ultimately we all learn from it (this is always my goal for sponsored content). With regards to the onsite testing, here's a link to a few videos: bit.ly/2LdI157. Under the section where it says "we partnered with Jason Fenske" there are three clickable video thumbnails. And I agree, it'd be very cool to see the molding process!
Engineering Explained there are videos showing the tire making process, although the ones I've seen kind of "leave you hanging," especially if you're an engineer or technical type. IIRC an episode of "How it's Made" deals with tire manufacturing. Unfortunately, again IIRC, it deals with retreads. It was plenty informative for that particular subject, and I'm sure many of your more inquisitive viewers would enjoy it. However, I think more would enjoy the process of producing a "virgin" car tire & the different options such as steel or corded, especially if done in your style of video, and even moreso if you had some company sponsorship. In the meantime, I suggest that anyone looking for the tire molding process to seek out the retreading video as the final molding is going to be nearly identical to that of a brand new tire.
The tire companies get pretty frigid when you ask to see the the magic behind the curtain :). It'd be rare to get to do footage on a modern tire company production floor. Great video.
Matthew Zaleski Yeah, I just remember How It's Made videos. This is the kinda channel that would be perfect for making a video on a non-proprietary process, like molding. I don't think they'll want to talk more than generalities about compound.
I really enjoyed this one! My work revolves pretty much entirely around tires. The insight you brought really helped me understand the inner works of a tire!
I had those Michelin Premiere A/S on my Accord before it was traded in and those tires are the best all season's I have used to date! It got me through 6-8 inches of snow with no issues and also with no compromise on safety!
My brother works for Michelin in Lexington, South Carolina and has done the very same test you did! Tires are extremely important and way more complex than most people realize.
If you wear a tire within say 1/2 years the compound won't change; anyways after 3 to 4 years the compound will start to degrade, getting worse with time. After 5 to 6 years the compound will have become harder and will provide less grip. TCS tested this and they found that a 6 year old tire is dangerous. This test was done with full thread depth and with different tire ages.
When I started diving I tried to buy budget tires over the years I noticed that some wear faster others came defective or became unfixable in some cases and needed to be replaced sooner. Then I started buying more expensive performance tires and noticed they last longer and performed better for a longer period of time and didn’t have any mayor issues for the life the tire. Lesson learned as with other things you buy you pay for what you get. Also Michelin is not the type of tire that I buy anymore.
Michelin tires can be great on some cars in certain environments, but an absolute mess on other cars in the same environment. When I was growing up Michelin tires got great ratings for tread life and mileage, but not so good in the rain. Over time they have gotten better in the rain.
Hmm... These designs for better wet performance when partially worn are exactly as I've expected. The reason they're not more widespread is because they do compromise dry and new tyre performance significantly unless you resort to expensive solutions to compensate, such as narrower but deeper sipes that impose more stress on the tyre mold and make damaging them and the tyre more likely, more expensive tread compounds that are stiff enough to not flex too much when new while still providing good grip, etc. Basically, trading off a bit of new tyre performance for more consistent performance over the entire usable lifespan of the tyre.
idk man, i was in between michelins and pirellis when i brought my tyres. after watching reviews online i decided to get the pirellis and i couldn't be happier. they wear good, the grip is still there and they are really quiet. i got about 30k miles out of them and they hould be good for at least 5k while still passing the mot.
Wow I thought you would 100% say worn tires are worse, being as you're sponsored by a tire company i thought you would tell everyone to get new tires. Good to see you don't sell out out and just say whatever your sponsors would be most happy with. Keeping it 100 with your viewers big respect
as always: Great video! But we need to consider: a new tire has more rubber to work with. That means a new tire gets warmed up faster, while a really worn tire can get problems to reach his working temperature at all (which was one reason when I crashed my Caterham . 4°C tarmac and worn semi slicks are no good combination :-) ) More rubber on a new tire means also a softer limit range. Maybe it won´t be as high as with a worn tire in the dry, but for most people with average driving skills a wider range would be better to be warned, that the car will reach it´s limits soon. Regards
I had Premier A/S tires on an old car of mine, they seemed really nice and I liked the idea of the tread expanding as the tire wears down. Sadly they don't make them in 235/40R19, so I guess I'm gonna go with the Primacy MXM4s when my current Continentals wear out.
I bought the Michelin premier AS for my girlfriend’s sonata and it improved the feel and handling of the car in the dry and wet immensely over the stock Kumhos. I’m going to be ordering Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3+ for my Infiniti G37 next week to replace my aging and slightly dry rotted Dunlop Sport Maxx AS and I’m expecting a vast improvement.
A coworker has the same car you do and did the same switch. The Dunlops were not as nice, even when new, as the those Michelin tires. Lots of G37 owners I talk to cannot figure out what Infiniti was thinking with that Dunlop tire choice, especially for rain driving.
I just bought Premier A/S last November and ran them through most of the Canadian winter. They had very good start/stopping traction in the snow (for all seasons) but understeered quite a bit when turning. Tread design probably affected this the most as they are designed for water not snow. No issues with wet traction or wear so far. Overall they are decently quiet and I am happy with them.
Some good insights on why some tires cost more than others. As far as driving on older tires, if they have no dry rot, you are probably OK on back roads below 50mph, but on the highway, watch out. Proved this recently with a set of 10-year-old Dunlop winter tires that look like new as I rarely drive the car on the highway. But at 60 mph had definitely developed a shimmy. Also, stay away from Chinese tires with unknown brand names to avoid balance issues in highway driving.
Great vid. In my dry weather driving (rear wheel drive grip) experience with tires, when the tire wears and the tread depth is reduced and more actual rubber is touching the ground grip is reduced when compared to a newer tire with deeper tread, I’ve always thought that maybe the compound is harder the more the tire wears but according to your video there should be more grip the “balder” the tire is. I’ve also thought that maybe the actual flex of the deeper tread allows the rubber to get a better hold on the rough asphalt surface, allows it to kind of dig in because there is more material to conform. I’d like to see a side by side grip comparison with a low tread performance tire and a brand new tire of the same make/model, I still feel like the new tire would provide more grip...
Andrew Malkin true. mine are 16 years old but the average driver doesn't drive a car hard enough to warrant worrying about them getting a bit harder. as long as they are structurally safe it makes little difference unless you are on a racing track or using motorcycle tyres which are more critical.
Well that was very informative and impressive. Impressive because we all know that hype creeps into such videos, but Jason, you managed to avoid that very well indeed and just deliver useful info. Thank you. Can you do the same for off road tyres too? A debate seems to crop up now and then in 4WD forums where one group believes wide tyres are best for offroad, while the other believe narrower tyres are the best. Now the debate is over grip in sand, mud and gravel and when the air pressure is reduced purposely to increase the area of the footprint and to absorb impacts more readily, and ofcourse, the flip side is fuel economy, wear and bitumen performance when the pressures are back to normal levels. It's a much more complicated scenario than for normal cars and understanding the basics will help many offroaders choose a tyre that is fit for purpose.
Wow what timing with this video because I was actually tire shopping at the moment. Now with all this new information I shall reconsider my previous choice in tire
What about heat cycling effecting the physical characteristics of the compound. Isn't it true that tires become "harder" over time, reducing wet and dry traction?
As a general trend, the newer your tyres, the better they are. The more worn a tyre is, the less effective it is, the less safe it is, the less it will resist punctures and the less it will resist aquaplaning and skidding. There are some things though, an old tyres may be slightly better for. 1. An old tyre, run at fairly high pressure, will have lower rolling resistance than a new one. That makes a small difference to fuel economy. 2. A worn tyre will build up far less heat at continuous high speed. That makes tyre failure of the tread separation type or the overheat and blow-out type, rather less likely. 3. A mostly worn tyre will have much lower slip angles than a new one, because it has less tread to distort. (Colin Chapman : "if it's not there, then it can't flex or break.") 4. If you're going to play with a car, and risk the chance of a flatspot because of a spin, or a brake lock-up, wouldn't you rather have that on a tyre that was about to be replaced, than one that you still wanted to do another 20 thousand miles on? 5. On a cold day, a newer tyre will grip much better than an old one. But on a hot summer afternoon, on a road with fast sweeping corners, in a car that is heavily loaded, a worn tyre generates less heat and gives off that heat much faster & easier. In most ways, a newer tyre is always better, but not in every way, not all the time.
I've got some Heidenau K66 Silica winter tires on my bike and they perform like a beast in every situation! from -10-30° C they can Perform great but with sunshine and dry roads the sweetspot is between 0-20°C. They can handle icy (not iceplates xD), slightly snowy roads or while raining under 6mm water on the street pretty impressive. They feel like sports tires at our todays temprature about 15°C.
Compounds does age, heat cycles accelerate the aging and most tires become harder with time, which also contribute to better hot/dry performance and worse cold/wet performance.
There can be a mistake at 1:20-1:40 - compound DOES change with wear (with time). Because rubber isn't 100% chemical inert - it changes, usually becomes firmer.
Thread pattern/depth changes by wear. But also compound changes by age (eg. for winter tires some additives to rubber may wear/vapor/press/whatever out), and also even compound might get adversely be affected by heat cycling (especially matters for tires used in both daily driving & trackdays). Michelin is often mentioned as providing more mileage in most classes of tires (at usually also proportionally higher price though), but there might be cases where no matter all the tries with smart tech to improve tire performance at higher wear, but cheap new non premium tire can outperform used premium one.
Had a set of Premier AS thrown into my Grandmother's Mercedes to replace the stock ContiProContacts. Night and day difference in rain & snow as well as being massively quieter & more comfortable to ride, but did suffer a 1MPG loss in fuel economy. Still overall they are an excellent tire.
Jason, While I appreciate the contents and your presentation in the video, I'd have to disagree with your premise that the tire compound's performance does not change over the course of the tire's life. While it is true that lower tread depth provides stiffer tread blocks which would perform better than full tread depth where there is more tread squirm, this higher performance claim would only be true if the age of the compound is the same -- ie. you're literally comparing a brand new tire vs a brand new tire that has been shaven down to having less tread.. In everyday situations, the tire compound's performance deteriorates over time as a result of heat cycles, UV damage, general drying out as the tire age, etc. Especially as a result of heat cycling, both the dry and wet performance of a street tire will drop significantly due to changes in the compound.
In my old sporty car i have tried several tyres to finally find the one GODLIKE for it. dimensions were R15 205' 55. I originally had goodyear and my god they were horrible. I was having excellent grip for 1-2 corners then they would overheat. then I tried Yokohama, they were consistent but I wasn't really satisfied with the amount of grip they provided. Michellin's were a bit worse but then I got some Pirelli Drago P5200, the grip was not only simply amazing grip but also consistent and only a bit worse than the Yokohama in the wet. I must say however that where I live the temperatures in the summer may peak to 45C during the day and 30+C in the night. There is little rain in the winter and autumn so I was focusing mainly on dry and hot weather conditions... I could do that because at the rate I was consuming tires at the time I needed new tyres every 6 months lol without even burning tyres, just from cornering
My experience has always been that new tyres have better dry weather (and definitely wet weather) grip than worn. Is it possible that the compound deteriorates over time due to kinetic and thermal stresses to be less effective?
Great explanation, you left out a discussion of changes to cross linking and structure as tires age/heat cycle, and a number of other fun things like shaved tires, but you hit the main points spot on. Great video
I used to work for a Tire cord company that supplied polyester cords to virtually all tire manufactures on the planet. Michelin always demanded the best performing cords with strict quality control. The quality demand by Michelin was quite difficult to meet in most times. So I tend to trust Michelin as a consumer. Some major tire companies (North American brand, sorry) were not really interested in the best quality cords. Instead they wanted cheaper versions. The other tire company that demanded quality cords were Hankook tire as well as Nexen. So I trust this company too. But when it comes to compound technology, Michelin is the best.
AH, I ain't worries about a little water, it is snow. Even a tire at 1/2 its life will decrease performance in snow. Then add a big torque monster engine and 255's on the driving wheels and you have a new contestant in the automotive Luge. Great video -- I like Engineering Explained !!!!
Street tires get hard when old/worn and grip goes down in the dry. It's much easier to break loose from a stop w/o the flexible tred rubber. Just like slicks, the rubber must flex to grip and that goes away when street tires are old and worn.
I can personally confirm that good tires, even on stock suspension, makes the biggest handling difference on a car. I drive a 1996 Volvo 850 with a few mods (BC coilovers, sway-bars, wheels/tires, intake, exhaust, etc) on track and autocross and the tires by far were the biggest improvement. Falken Azenis RT615K+ tires.
How timely this video is ...I just pointed out the wear bars on a friends of mines car suggesting the tire is worn and needs replacement..Now I have a better explanation more tho say to convince them to replace that tire.
fun, i have the Michelin Premier A/S tires on my car. it's good to know as they are about half worn they are still good for the summer. good tires. thank you for this video.
What about the degradation of compound performance with time? I think that some great tires get really bad with age, Pirelli Cinturato is an example, after two summer seasons the compound on my tires became terribly hard, lost the grip.
Good video Jason. In Australia here compound is near on ignored both at the consumers end and tyre shop. There is no such thing as a winter tire or sumer tire here, and the tyre manufacturer just goes and picks the best one to suit them, normally a hard compound to last long. For some unknown reason, tyre life in thousands of kilometres is a major reason for buying a certain tyre here. So you have brands bragging bout 80000 km life. This ofcourse is a winter trade off in grip. For example, the 17in bridgestone at dualers for my dads land rover discovery have that hard of a compound that in our cold weather of 5 degrees ,they nearly turn into slicks and become very unpredictable, almost like drivig on 2mm of tread in the rain. Ofcourse same applies for there purpose of off road when your on rocky ground when cold you end up doing burnouts everywhere. I believe they did this because the first batch for that size and load rating( the discoverys are a rather wieghty car at 2600kg full spec) was too soft in summer and lasted but 20000kms for a few early customers. I mean for average driving of 13000km to 20000kms a year making a 4 to 5 year life span on tyres really that bad that they do these silly decisions over here( cooper tires are also bad for this)
TL:DW Worn tires in the dry act like slicks, more surface area making contact in the same contact patch. This give more friction and better performance. Worn tires in the wet lose their ability to properly displace water, which allows the tread better contact to the pavement. The non-displaced water now has a bigger pooling effect making hydroplaning easier and decreasing friction. Thus less lateral grip and increased breaking distance.
there is absolutely a compound difference on the inner and outer part of the thread's on some tire's. the inner part's is often for stability etc and never ment to drive on. so they r hard and terrible to drive on. as soon as you hit this part of the tire you will see it. if you were it down on a side of the tire all around it will become a ring around the tire that is distinkt. on the last set i took down to this part it was covering the complete tire at about 2-2.5 mm thread left. the rest of the tire was a soft compound so it needed this to stay gridet.
On the topic of tires I would truly like to know how to know if a tire is too wide for your car. or at least how an auto manufacturer would know this? if you was modifying a car is wider always better? I would really like to know in depth about tire width!
What about heat cycling and age? Those most certainly should be part of the compound of the equation, as the compound actually changes depending on number of thermal cycles and age.
No doubt that Michelin are one the best if not the best. Shockingly, some specific sizes are available in single edition or one option only and quite expensive ($1250+) if you need to buy a full set at once!
Michelin tires are the best but in India there a problem while in braking the rubber materials of the tires comes off when u launch the car tire trades also comes of about 1inch to 2 inch. As compared to other tires average life of them is almost 20000km as per company recommended height of trades. If you read this hope if you tell this problem to them and thank for the video keep making it. I like it
Wear and age can go hand in hand tho. As the tire ages the rubber gets harder and less sticky... so at the end of the day dry grip pretty much stays the same no? I mean it does depend on how much you drive I guess
Only problem is that the Michelin Premier LTX tires only have 8/32" of tread when new. These tires have a tread warranty of 60,000 miles, but Ive been replacing them on Equinoxs with 30,000 or less. I had a Michelin rep recommend we do not sell the premier ltx as a replacement tire; even though the vehicle was sold with these tires from the factory. Sure, they might handle better when worn, but they better because they wear out damn near instantly
The only problem is that I buy 3 sets of other tyres from the price of the Michelins, so I hawe much more km-s covered for the same price even if I change them before they wear out and lose their properties.
Can you make a benchmark with light rims vs normal aluminum vs non-aluminum rims to save fuel? is it worth to buy special light rims to save fuel? Also how much a tire must weight to improve performance?
Jaime7188 Having driven on both, the Dunlop Direzza D1 Star Spec was better but the Goodyear F1 GD-D3 is probably the best all round wet tire I have ever used. Extreme summer tires are nice and all but they do about a tenth of the mileage.
The compound may not change much if you wear them down in a short period of time. But it may take years to wear your tires, and in this instance the compound changes at least as much as the rubber looses its softeners. And with that often lots of Grip.
Disappointed by Michelin. Through their website I chatted with a rep regarding which Pilot Sport 4S tires would fit the factory wheels of my 2016 Forester XT. I was advised that the correct size tires would not be available for a couple months, so I waited. When the tires arrived I e-mailed Michelin to ask about the recommended air pressure. I was told that I should not run Pilot Sport 4S tires on my Forester, and should choose an appropriate all season tire. FU Michelin! I wanted the best ultra high performance summer tires for a resson.
I buy new tires (Michelin's made in France) and then take them to specialized tire shops to have additional SIPES cut into each new tire. Well worth the additional $20 per tire to protect the life of my family. les schwab offers this service nationally in the USA.
I have an issue with this video, Jason. You mention that dry grip gets better as a tire wears. This might be true to a point, but I bought a set of tires years ago and wore them down to the wear bars. Once they were at the wear bars, dry traction plummeted. They went from holding grip at full acceleration when half worn, to just spinning entirely through 1st gear when at the wear bars. I feel like you neglected to mention that there IS a point where dry grip gets worse as the tire wears. I wore these tires from brand new to the wear bars in a little under 2 years so dry rot should not have been a factor.
Sneaky dual layer tread compound placed on the tire? Nice down to the wear bars and then hard as heck to entice you to get new tires and also avoid as much problem as possible if your car is subject to inspection.
Engineering Explained: Please do a video on "Why do car tires need to match, FWD, RWD, AWD, 4X4" explain the consquences and how tire tread/wear can make a difference on your gears.
I wouldn't say dry performance increases as tyres wear. Quite the opposite. Especially when using ultra high performance tyres & tracking them frequently.. Graining/blistering affects the compound in a irreversible way. The tyres have limited heat cycles as well. The best laptimes (which means highest dry grip) come when you have fresh tyres.
It depends entirely on what you are doing. On dry pavement, new tires won't perform as well as worn in tires due to the flexibility of the taller tread, but on wet pavement the taller tread blocks of the new tires will be far less likely to hydroplane due to the larger amount of space for the water to travel as the tire travels through the water. This will pretty much hold true until you get past the wear bars and the tread is completely gone, leaving no tread compound left to grip the pavement.
Of course, if you heat cycle the tires enough, they get hard, and will also lose their grip. Shaving the tread of the tires pretty much ensures the best dry traction over the life of the tire, with not enough "time" to heat cycle the tires enough to mess up the compound before the tread is completely gone. Not recommended for a daily driver, obviously. :D
Dear Friend... I just had almost a fatal accident while running on Michellin Premier LTX - I also thought that the old tire will give me grip... but its completely failed in light rain. and at approximately 80-90 Km/h... its failed. I will take it up with michellin..
I bought a set of michelin tires with these funny sype for my honda. Loudest set of tires on the highway I had ever experienced. I had to wear earplugs. Great idea, but painful on the ear.
Tire compound does change as the tires goes through heat cycles. Depending on the tire that can affect dry traction to a noticeable degree. Proper heat cycling (esp. for racing tires) can affect tire life as well. Michelin should have told you that or maybe they didn't want you bringing that up. Oh well.
With regards to the linked video, I really feel that it should have been double blind. You should have carried out the brake test not knowing whether it was Michelin's or a competitor. Anyway, great video as ever.
They actually usually do it that way, and I’ve participated in demonstrations with them exactly like that. In fact, that exact braking test but with no labels, and groups of about 20 people where you can compare results with each other (we all got the same results). The only reason this one was labeled is because they wanted labels on the sides of the car for the video.
Engineering Explained Thanks Jason, I didn't realise that. Keep up the fantastic work, I love your channel and the technical depth you go into, really appreciate it.
Hey Jason, wouldn't the degradation of the tire compound of a worn tire effect the grip quite alot and offset any gains to be had through the increased surface area? Most guys I know that go racing shave their tire to get better lap times, but after a certain amount of heat cycles they either scrap the tires or sell them for cheap. Can you elaborate on this?
Last time I made an enquiry to Michelin their customer service guy didn't know what rotational tires were. I tried to explain how rotational tires were either left or right handed, but he refused to believe it. I bought Continentals in the end.
True that. I recently tried a 8 years old set of budget tires and they got so tough that they will allow even Fabia 1.2HTP to do burnouts on any surface.
hmm.. this might be the reason why my DSC keeps blinking on bumpy / wet road whenever i push the throttle. the tires were going to be 5 years soon. I know my suspension isn't the problem since they were all rebuilt and aligned properly
You can also make the argument that a tire over time will dry out and will offer substantially less grip in the dry. Thus making a worn tire (old) possibly worse in all cases.
Very informative video! But is it not true that the compound grip changes over the age of the tires, because of the effect of UV Ray's and rubber losing it's natural oils? This is a popular belief in Pakistan so I hope you will be able to explain it. Thanks.
Firstly, what you say about tread depth it correct - this is why ultra-performance DOT tires will have very large tread blocks, and perhaps even :slick" portions of tread. This is also why in some race classes that require DOT tires, people will sometimes do what is called "race-shaving" to cut down the tread on new tires. Yes, this decreases the service life of the tire - but when people will spend money for faster lap times or a competitive advantage, this makes sense. But actually not true about the compound. The compound grip does degrade over use due to _heat cycles_ . This is a well know phenomena in racing. For example, as you say racing slicks have no tread, so the grip level should remain constant over the life of the tire according to your claim. And this is just not true. Even though the racing slick may still have life in the tire, your lap times will increase as the tire ages and the compound grip decreases. Lap times will again decrease after putting on fresh tires. This is why tire management strategies are so crucial in racing as you will need to decide when to use fresh tires for best lap times and when to tolerate worse lap times with older tires. And this is why some racing classes will control tire use in order to keep costs down. Someone with a lot of money to spend on always using fresh tires will have an advantage over someone who has to use the full service life of the tire because they can't afford to always use fresh tires. So what you have (in dry conditions) is a rate relationship between the increasing grip as the tread wears down and decreasing grip as the tire compound ages. But the "winner" in that race is actually the grip lost due to compound ageing over grip improvement due to shallower tread depth. So in racing DOT spec classes, there will still be better lap ties with fresh tires over old tires - meaning even on the street in the dry, new tires will have better grip over old. (Now, this is assuming at least moderate level performance tires, it may be that with very fine tread and tread blocks tread wear grip improves faster because there is so much grip lost to begin with, I don't know. But then, people running those tires probably don't care about grip anyway, so the point would be moot.)
Also to note, while not the exact topic of the video as regards tire ageing, but related to tires and grip is sidewall height. The effect is much like that of the tread blocks themselves. Taller sidewalls allow for more tire flex under cornering which the pulls a portion of the tire up from the pavement reducing effective contact patch size and thus resulting in lost grip. This is why performance tires will have shorter side walls. Hence the plus 1 / minus 1 theory to improving tire performance. Go to the next larger diameter wheel and go down in tire aspect ratio to reduce sidewall height.
Shouldn't the compound degratade on a worn tire due to the cycles of heating and cooling? and How that degradation of the compound will affect the overall grip of the tire in wet and cold surface?
Why no one makes long lasting tires anymore? All I can find is ultra high performance for my car....I drive a land yatch. I'd like a comfortable, long lasting tire. Any suggestions?
Jason, are you seperating wear from age when describing the compound? Since a manufacturer is a sponsor, I challenge you now to show performance of the compound with age. We are not all racers that change the rubber after every drive.
