NICHE REAR DIFFERENCIAL INSTALL HOW TO DIY YAMAHA RHINO/HISUN 450/500/660/700 

@travisleiske204 right on thanks. Your CF moto is a totally different machine though and probably a heck of a lot more reliable and better built. Lol

@chevyboy2066 if you go in the description of the video I have the link for it. If you are in the USA click on the 🇺🇸 or the 🇨🇦if you are there. The one I used was for a Rhino 660 but can be used on a Hisun 700.

@simmssg it’s just a locked “final drive” everybody just calls them a Diff including myself. Nobody makes a true differential for these.

Thanx, I figured that was the case, any idea what i should be looking for? I’m will to make/ change the half shafts or whatever. I just don’t know what they call a true diff for side by sides

@simmssg the closest thing you could buy would be a rear diff for a 2011 Hisun 800 that has turf mode where you can unlock one wheel. You would have to get custom shafts made up. Could it be done? Yes with a lot of mods but is it worth it? I highly doubt it.

Thanx a bunch I’ll look into it

@tyrellgatling5666 no idea I don’t have one of those.

@peterbirgersson7 yes yours is a better brake system than mine and I may upgrade to that style later.

@MrBwet84 thanks. I haven’t had to replace thr rear axles yet despite my crazy loads of firewood 😆 but I broke the front left outer cv joint. I bought all 4 from a place on Amazon called “Auto Shack”. They were for the 660 Rhino but fit mine perfectly and I have about 850km’s (550 miles) on them now with no issues at all. They are not as beefy as the Hisun axles so they are lighter and don’t rob as much power. This differential has a magnetic drain plug plus the Speed sensor of the Chinese clones screws right in and speedo works great. You just need to drill the one hole. Mine had two different sized bolts for some reason maybe yours is different just check it first.

@@Indeewoods good deal!! If I remember correctly, when I took my diff out to replace the bearing, it also had one bolt bigger than the other.

@MrBwet84 did yours have the rubber dampner piece between the driveshaft and the pinion? If not you should order one up from Yamaha (for the Rhino 660) and it fits right in and really tightened the drive shaft up plus no clicking/clunking noise anymore.

@@Indeewoods that I don't know for sure. It's been at least 4 years since I had it apart. But I will definitely get one when I swap the diff, along with cleaning up and greasing the brakes. Just need to find time to do it all. Did you end up getting a OEM Yamaha wet clutch? I saw the couple vids of the Amazon one not working out. I need to get into that as well as cleaning/repairing the other clutches. It does work as is, but needs major TLC.

@MrBwent84 I put the Amazon (Vevor) wet clutch in with slugs and left 4 rollers out,shimmed the cam plate (for more low end gearing),and used the one way bearing it came with. It worked really good on the low end but reved to high for trail riding so I pulled it apart and noticed the one way bearing (that was already making noise) had gouged up the bearing surface of the wet clutch. So I pulled apart again,put the slugs in my original wet clutched,used the Vevor wet clutch drum because it has longer splines for more shims and another new Vevor one way clutch bearing ( they sent me two) and used the stock 18 gram weights. Stock belt. That’s what’s been in it for about 750km’s/500 miles) The one way bearing was making a clunk and not working like it should it kicks out and free wheels coming down hills. The clunk did go away though. If money was no issue I’d buy the Yamaha drum,a Yamaha clutch and the wet clutch shoes from Yamaha and install them on my stock wet clutch drum ( splines different than the Rhino apparently). My plan now is to give the Vevor wet clutch a shot but with a new Yamaha one way bearing which is soaking in oil with the wet clutch as we speak. I’ll use the Vevor wet clutch drum as well and see what happens. I like the fact the Vevor drum has longer splines and that the wet clutch is balanced vs nothing on the stock wet clutch and I think the springs on the Vevor clutch are softer than the stock Hisun springs so quicker engagement. The old thinkng was to put stiffer wet clutch springs to raise rpm but it never worked good and was harder on the wet clutch shoes. I think back in 2008 Hisun engineers might have copied the stiffer EPI wet clutch springs. I’ll know more tomorrow when I dive into the wet clutch again. I’ll also be installing my OEM Yamaha Rhino 700 belt. My stock rollers had flat spots in them so I orderd Yamaha 660 weights from Yamaha but they are 18 grams as well ( I thought they were 16) so now I’ll probably by aftermarker 16 gram rollers, slippery washers for the secondary spring,and the one piece cam plate sliders. I’ll make a video of my findings. I have a lot of content I just need to edit. Sorry for long winded post.