Collimation in nightvision is often poorly understood, so we decided to make a quick and hopefully educational video regarding the subject. Let us know if you enjoyed it nightsolutions.ca
Thank you so much for the great video! I had a pair of Katana's that always drove me insane because the angular differential (maybe around 5 degrees low?!?) between each tube was so far off that it couldn't be culminated correctly! After watching your video I realized that shimming the tube slightly in the front with a few thin strips of electrical tape (needed 3 strips!) over a portion of .25 inches by .5 inches and I now have dead on culmination! I am no professional builder but I do enjoy learning to do things myself and you helped me greatly!
This is the most useful video about NV I've seen so far. I have some questions: Why is P45 more expensive, when chemically it's a substitution of P43 yttrium oxysulphide with gadolinium? Why is it called WP? When I discovered the CIE coordinates for P45 and converted them to half luma hexadecimal, I get the web color name Moonstone. Not a bad name. Which is the least flawed binocular housing? How does the high tech system of manufacturing tubes result in such a quantity of non-optimal units? Are the lower grades nerfed? Wouldn't using a slightly slower phosphor increase the low light performance by effectively increasing the exposure time?
I have an agm pvs14. The tube seems really nice, but it has image shift with my other eye bad. I tried to take it apart and see if putting it back together would change anything. It didn't do anything. I think my lenses are not adjustable. Is it usually the front or the rear that is able to be adjusted for image shift? I may try new lenses if I may be able to take care of it myself. Im glad I found your channel. Im going to look at some of your other videos. This thing has bothered me since I got it. It is find when I am away from all civilization, but becomes a headache when there are lights in the distance.
AGM lenses are made by Optronics, some of them do not have an offset and some of them do. Thus I am not sure if the offset is from accidental misalignment during assembly or if the non offset is from misalignment. On a normal eyepiece you can adjust collimation by rotating it. It has nothing to do with the objective lens.
I'm trying to better understand so collimation with the pano bridge would be worse because they point or how they articulate? Where can you get this service?
Would you say the Katana body is one of the poorer choices of dual tube body's then? Looked like it flexed the most when you put pressure on the pod and you mentioned the hinge was shorter which made alignment poorer.
Would it be more beneficial to look for a company to do this? I recently got a second PVS-14 and picked up a TNV PBM-A and plan to run both 14’s on the powered bridge.
Pirates did it by wearing a patch over one eye during the day so that whenever they went below deck during the day or when night rolled around they just swap the patch over to the other eye and they had a fully dialated eye that was as close to night vision that a stock human being could get, you kinda had to trade depth perception for it though.
Amazing. You see youtube videos of guys assembling BNVDs at home and they make it seem too easy. None I have seen explain these key details, likely resulting in a bunch of DIY'rs unhappy they dropped a shit ton of money on individual pieces only to need a professional to finish the job. OR even worse, they do shitty buiilds for others and charge close to full price....
Being able to drop some parts together and have a NVG power up to produce an image is very easy. That is why there are so many low level builders on Facebook and Instagram selling untested, unpurged, and uncollimated units that have greasy fingerprints on the lenses inside.
