That was about the best video I've ever seen on the Nikki carburetor and I've watched a bunch of them thanks for being so patient and taking yourvtime showing us
Thank you for this video. It is the most thorough and comprehensive I have watched. It is the reason I was able to rebuild my carb after many previous attempts. One tip for everyone, a little petroleum jelly will help hold the one piece gasket in place.
Petroleum jelly is often used on aircraft to lube fuel system packings because it dissolves with no harm to the system. That's a VERY good idea for these floppy Nikki seals.
Thank you so much sir! My carb got varnish build up and I've been cleaning it, usually I blow it out with an air compressor, went to blow it out and the main jet blew right out. You confirmed what it was as I've never seen a main jet at the bottom before, didn't know what replacement part to order but you said the main jet so thank you so much! :) :) :)
When you vacuum test that carburetor and it won't hold vacuum it is usually the small fuel inlet O-ring that is the problem. The one you took out was clearly damaged and would not let it hold vacuum even if the needle was in good shape. The big rubber bowl seal is usually good so I bought a bag of 100 of just that little fuel inlet O-ring. Thanks for the link to the jet O-rings. Great video.
Would have liked to have seen the carb body galleries where the welsh plug and idle mixture needle is. Usually the needle mixture is sealed but they also cause problems with dirt clogging these areas.
That's the problem i'm having someone got to the carb before I did,the machine was running bad when I took the carb apart the main jet was gone there was no little o-ring around that little thing,if I had watched this before I took it apart it would of sure helped me see a lot was missing,anyway I'm buying a new one hope all the parts are in it,Thanks for the show.
cotton123ful same problem I'm having with my neighbor's a buddy of his went through lost jet now the motor loads up and dies under load did replacing the jet solve your problem I want this tractor out of my shed
You can replace the anti backfire solenoid with a plug B&S offers, those solenoids are expensive, or you can cut the tip off the thing BUT you will need to add a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line
Numa Newbern The fuel solenoid doesn’t stop the carb from flooding. So if you disable the solenoid there’s no need to add a fuel shut off. The needle and seat are what allow fuel into the carb
Mechanics wanting a less expensive version of that cool Stens-style thumb pump can grab a cheap blood pressure cuff ("manual aneroid sphygmomanometer") for 20 bucks or less. It's a little more awkward but does the job nicely.
so this could be avoided by turning off the gas after each use? also sounds like I should keep one of these gaskets kits and needles in on hand? check the oil and smell it for any gas before each use as well? thank you for your time.
It's cheaper just to buy a new carburetor. I had a nikki carburetor on my lt1000 I took it apart to clean it and the gasket expanded and I couldn't get it back together. I went to get a rebuild kit and the kit was 50 dollars. I got a whole brand new nikki carburetor for 20 dollars.
You have a video of the main jet o ring reinstall into the plastic pickup tube housing? You said it comes out from the bottom. Other styles of this carb drop in from the top side?
Can you please tell me the name of the metal vacuum pressure thumb pump ??? Also, can you tell me the space between top of float and roof of plastic float holder ???? Thanks for you time Sir. VF
When you reattach the float and put the pin in to hold it, the float looks like it is on the mower and the bowl fills up with gas, the float will hit the top of the carburetor before shutting off the flow of gas 8:56 . Is this style carburetor SUPPOSED to have the float riding that high? Most other carburetors are supposed to have the float parallel to the carburetor when the float valve seats.
Does the needle have a spring inside itself ??? Or is the needle just one piece ??? Also I noticed that the float is not parallel with the roof of the plastic holder you put together ????? Thanks for the show Sir. VF
I love this video. It's exactly what I need. I'm looking forward to trying to rebuild my carb now that I've got an idea of what I have to do. I've already ordered the Stens pressure tester and the parts. However, I'm not super confident I'll get it right, so, my Plan B is to buy a new carb. However, the trouble I'm having is working out what part number I need. The only numbers on the body of the carby is "209", which doesn't seem to be enough numbers for a part number. Do you happen to know the correct part number for the entire carby and where I might be able to buy one? Any help appreciated.
@Gary Price. I was rebuilding the exact carb in vid other day. I have another carb that I am going to get to soon. I'm a little confused unless this is another ver of carb. Meaning my carb I will be working on. It looks the same except where main gas hose hooks up. Stead of on side this one is a 90 degree or so. Inside the carb is big spring that sits on top and goes over main jet unlike my other. Also the big bowl gasket is just a little differ. Looks like one in vid just differs some. Also the O ring that goes over plastic nub and sits down in carb. This one has none unless someone robbed it. So I do not know if this has one? Numbers on carb are Nikki 696353 GO27O1 1927 B. What can you tell me about this carb and what part number is it? I need to find the O rings and or that gasket for it and main jet?
Well ... I was told that my main jet was clogged. As my engine stalled out wen PTO WAS ENGAGED... So I took my carb off and well Lost the main jet... NO CLUE IT WAS EVEN THERE. TO BEGIN WITH. IT RAN BUT WORSE THE EVER. ONLY SLOWLY SPEEDS UP. BUT THEN FLOODS OUT BLAK SMOKE TERRIBLE. BUT. STILL NOT FIXED. LOW COMPRESSION. BAD GEAD GASKET. COMMON ON 19.5 intek Briggs. Single So good luck people. Only 150 hrs. Wow. Pos design. In husky zero turn. Mower. But they put it lots. Of stuff. Only 150 hours.... WOW THAT MADE ME PISSY. HAVE A GOOD DAY EVERYONE!! Thanks for this video. Now she ROCKS. JUST A PAIN IN THE BUTT TO FIX A LOW HR MOTOR I THOUGH.
Gary, Thank you for the very informative and well demonstrated video. I have that carb on my Craftsman LT1000 18hp. I started it up to cut the grass and It ran as usual for about 40 ft and quit. I checked fuel and wondered where all the fuel had gone after I topped it off after mowing a few days ago. I put more fuel in the tank but it wouldn’t turn over at all. To my surprise, the tank had emptied into the cylinder and must have vapor locked. I hope the three parts you mentioned are all I need to go ahead and rebuild the carb while I have it apart. Thanks again for the video. If I have trouble getting the parts and decide to buy a rebuilt carb, which one would recommend?
You can remove the emulsion tube. Reach into the carb throat with a stiff plastic pry tool (or very carefully with a screwdriver) Place the screwdriver tip between the top of the emulsion tube and the top of the carb throat, and pry gently. It is the only way to clean out the top "jets" of the emulsion tube. Take note of the depth (gap between top of tube and carb throat) of the emulsion tube and when you press it back in press firmly and make sure it seats with the same clearance from the top of the carb throat.
Joesph I haven't run across that one yet. I would get the manual and go from there for parts. Free manual here ... www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html
Good video, but, you should never ever use tip cleaners, they are like small files and the carb fittings you are using them on are soft brass, you will minutely alter the size of them.
Try Amazon for the thumb pump....www.amazon.com/MOTOALL-Carburetor-Detector-Tillotson-Replaces/dp/B08Q775F4Q/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=carburetor+pressure+tester&qid=1625844588&sr=8-3
