Yep you are right and I don't always have it on as I'm just use to shooting without and making sure the setting are right for the shot but it will be interesting to try and see if I can push the settings using this mode 👍🏻 I also don't always like it on when using video as I'm not a fan of the background moving effect so will be interesting to see if the focus bit resolves this issue.
That's a fine line from taking it from a 30 mins video to 2 hour video with the number of features. Sorry it didn't quite cover everything you needed but maybe I should do some more videos broken down into sections which are more in-depth 👍
Great info. Can you tell us how to set the camera to "Back focus" I did that to my D600 but that was a long tie ago. I do not remember the steps. Thanks for your help.
Here you go: Set (a1) AF-C priority selection to Release Set (a6) AF activation to AF-On Only Set (f2) Custom Controls (shooting) - AE-L/AF-L button to AF-ON Set Continues AF mode to AF-C rather than AF-S
Awesome video! Thank you, it helped a lot! Btw, I’m experiencing an issue with Zf. No matter what lenses I use, if I use a manual mode, photos taken look a half to a full stop brighter. I don’t see this problem only when I’m taking photos in auto mode. This is just my camera, or am I missing something?
Glad it helped. It could be a number of problems - expose compensation dial set to something other than zero. Live view set to (d9 I think) viewable picture rather than real exposure. D-light set but only shooting RAW. (D light only effects JPGs) They are the most common off the top of my head. Hope that helps 👍
Thank you so so much!! You were right! I was shooting RAW, and D-light was on! So I turned it off and it fixed the problem!! Appreciate your help and quick response so much!
Nice useful video. I have a Fuji XT5 and recently purchased this, (no, I’m not made of money, a well deserved 18 year pension came through). I’ve always wanted a full frame camera and want to test it out in low light street photography in London. Can you provide any thoughts on comparison? I’m feeling the purchase was a bit extravagant it I’m happy with the photos I’ve taken thus far.
The ISO sensitivity menu has an option to set ISO in 'C' mode (but no one would ever set it from there as it's a pain to get to) and then there is the options to setup ISO for when it's in auto-iso mode.
Thanks for the great vid ;) I used to love being able to skip photos 10 at a time by turning the front dial but it doesnt seem to do it anymore, do you know if there is a work around ? Thanks
Hi Terry D9 is still the same. Nikon just called something else to confuse me. But No Exposure Delay Mode option. I used that all the time on my other camera's.
Glad you found the option 👍🏻 From what I understand the Exposure Delay Mode was only on the old style 'D' series cameras as they have a physical mirror which moves and on the Z range that is not the case; hence not needing to wait after the mirror has moved. You can however use self-timer on the shot after you press the shutter release to wait for general camera movement. Hope that helps 😁
Thanks. Yes I really only used it to negate and movement from touching the shutter button. The Self Timer option will work just fine. Thanks for the help. @@TerryLivesey
Ah yeah I should have explained that better and had to clarify somewhere else on here. The VR can be set from the 'i' menu so I have it off by default as I'm normally using tripod etc and it's not required but I can turn it on quickly from the 'i' menu when I need it. So setting the VR focus point means that it is set ready for use when I enable VR (as I don't want to have to go through the menus to find it). Hope that explains it better and thanks for reaching out and asking the question 👍🏻
Hi Terry. I cant find answers to my dilemma. I use "Apply settings to live view" D9 and "Exposure Delay Mode"D4 all the time in my Z6II. Both these options seem to be missing from the Zf?
Another fellow here on YT tested VR sport versus VR normal and found the sport (Spt) to be superior for video with less jerkyness. Have you tested the differrences between the two VR settings for video? Thanks.
The shutter speed is already setup to the back dial, you just need to set the top shutter speed dial to 'step' 👍🏻 The ISO was discussed in the video and I change the front function button from 'WB' to 'ISO' and this allows me to turn the back dial into ISO when the ISO dial is set to 'C'. Hope that helps 👍🏻
The self timer menu has '2s,5s,10s,20s' and Number of shots, in it but you can set the dial to either bulb or time (not had time before but I like it - it means you have to press the shutter button again to stop it - I use the smartphone remote app so I don't knock it). Hope that helps 👍🏻
Fair point 👍🏻 and well pointed out 😁 Normally it wouldn't matter but as I use the jpeg as a backup only, it gives me the wider gamut if I have to use them. I should have explained my reasoning a bit more in the video. I think I'm just paranoid with the amount of backups I keep but if I'm make the effort to do a weekend away doing landscapes and I loose them I think I would cry 😭🤣
@@TerryLivesey most of the image options are for jpeg. I think only Long Exposure NR applies to RAWs. I don't understand why that is not explicitly pointed in the user manual
@@TerryLivesey I own a Z camera for years and I still don't know which affects what. That's why many don't understand why the images look normal on the lcd and much darker on the computer. Active D-Ligting is one reason
Why would you have link vr to focus point on, if you turn the vr off anyway? Not the only thing I spotted. Think things through before you make educational videos or they come down to a bad comedy.
Fair point but I have it on so that when I select it from the 'i' menu (which you will see I set it up later on) I don't want the VR on by default as I use a tripod but if I need to turn it on, I don't have to go search through the menus to find the focus bit on as well. Hope that explains it for you 👍
