As an old racer and then race prep tuner, I can vouch for Dave's knowledge and advice just from watching his videos. I recommend all younger and less experienced sport riders follow his recommendations. His patience with the video medium and detail level far exceed what I would be able or willing to do.
@@boostleakboys4387 Thanks Capt. Obvious! Note my use of the word 'willing'. I have no interest in being a content creator. As for your comment, I said as much in my comment so your contribution is zero. Thanks for playing.
Dave, I appreciate your knowledge and skill in training us with straight forward, no BS information. Even after 30 years of riding, I’m still in wonder of riding and thankful guys like yourself are accessible and willing to share your knowledge. Brilliant!
Thank you for another really great video! Trying to learn how to ride bike on track and fix various things on a budget. Really fun learning and improving, and your videos are the best and most thorough, explaining things others may take for granted like fluid levels, and showing different types of calipers. Cheers!
Dave, you are the main man, Your approach to any problem is flawless. I don’t care about the manuals. You always think about what you,’re doing, and that helps you avoid the major fuckups. The way you do it, you always have a retreat. Top guy, and shoutout to the invisible Dave as well!
Dave Moss Tuning So true, and explaining why or why not, then if and if not, you’re helping so many think a little more about what they encounter on the way.
Dave love your channel giving me bike fever again, just give you how long been riding my first Street bike H2 750. Really enjoyed watching your videos I was like you onçe meticulous. That's insane having pads like that.
It's good to use the back of pads to push the pistons witch is much easy one time then just put the pads in right after..enjoying your program and tips👌🇻🇨💯👍
Thanks Dave for sharing those interesting facts and maintenance advises , i recently got a low milage bike and the previous owner did a powder coating to the wheels that damaged the front wheel hub and i realized that after i got the bike , the bearing are not snug in the hub, i didn't want to get a new wheel and was thinking of fixing the one i have, one interesting solution that i didn't try yet is to use loctite 609 (green) for the bearing to make it fit into the hub, i'm planning to try that but was looking for some advises from you as i didn't find many people sharing their experience with such problem.
My grandfather had two pieces of wood,,, I think from The Ark, as the wood looked HELLA OLD! But he put the two pieces of wood they may have been wrapped in leather as the wood was SMOOTH., Aside each of the pistons lengthwise THEN- had a wedge block he used between the two pieces of wood.. and that applied pretty uniform & safe pressure to set the pistons back
It takes a while for brake fluid to actually eat through the paint. I'm sure that if it has been wiped off with a wet rag right after that scene was complete, there will be absolutely NO damage. In my experience, I have gone through at least 10 liters of brake fluid on various cars and bikes and of course, had spills at times. Not once was the paint damaged.
@@VasyaIvanovichPupkin True statement. Brake fluid attacks paint over time, and damage occurs when you don't see the drip and it gets time to bite into the paint. Wipe ups always prevent damage if you get it all. I do think it's better to lay down a few disposable shop towels to catch the drips though.
Hope you have a video comprehensive as this do fluid removal / change ….this was so much easier to follow for me ..maybe because I always do my own car brakes …..but am guilty of Basically never changing brake fluid ,most I’d do is during bleeding running old fluid through till new ( or looks mostly new ) fluid bleeds..
I did a quick search and did not find a video on bleeding brakes 101 - only on an upside down rear caliper. That will be rectified in the next 6 weeks when I return from New Zealand.
Very nice video and thank you for commenting on the previous post about pad deposits on the rotor. I have a question that no one has been able to answer about those Brembo monoblocks. I had some trouble with a GSXR master cylinder 2 years ago and while troubleshooting it I cleaned and replace o-rings in the calipers. During this process I found out that the inlet hose and the bleed screw are not separated internally. Both holes go into the same cavity. Because of this, while bleeding the fluid, the new fluid simply travels down the hose, into the first cavity and then out the bleed screw. It does not travel around the pistons and therefore the old fluid around the pistons does not get flushed. The only way to really bleed these calipers effectively (which, to me, is defined by saying at least 90-95% of the old fluid gets pushed out) is to pull the pistons and drain the calipers each time. What am I missing? This just seems like a really ineffective design.
You are not missing anything. Your observations show how the flow path works and these brakes are designed to encourage frequent cleaning as they are "race" type calipers that get a lot of attention as per several of the old On The Throttle brake cleaning videos. It can seem odd, but knowing what you have and how best to service it is by far more important.
T.J. Houchin Or you could put a hose on the bleeder valve open it then push the pistons in thus pushing all the old fluid out then pump the brake lever to fill the caliper with new fluid do this several times and you flushed it without having to disassemble your calipers........hope this works for you
Thanks for all the videos :-) The first calipers looks like mine gsxr 1000 k3 calipers, and they have spring-plates on them that you might be missing on yours. I dont know if they make any difference, could be worth checking out in any case.
A lot of grit gets trapped in the array of holes in the rotors. What I do is spray the outer surface all the way around first, with a paper towel behind. This is better than using an airline which can send debris everywhere. Then I clean both surfaces, poke every damned hole, and wipe the surfaces again. It’s laborious and time consuming, but grit is as unwelcome as grease on brake pads. I also avoid cross contamination by changing my gloves regularly and after each filthy stage. Another trick with the pins is to spin them in a drill (wrapped in tape to protect them from the chuck jaws) and clean the dirty/rusty/uneven surfaces using 400 grit taped onto a 1.5” wide x 6” long piece of thin flat plywood. This gives you light annular effect around the diameter - which we don’t want. So then I wank the buggers with 800 grit until the annular marks are removed, to create the desired longitudinal lines instead. I even finish off with 1600 grit to really polish them beyond smooth. This has the effect of preserving their useful life by creating a surface that’s far less likely to attract moisture, so less likely to corrode. Finally, I sometimes find that swapping pins around offers different areas of the pin surface to the part of the pad backing plate that wears the pins, thus effectively starting again with a similar situation as when the pins were new. When needs must, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as returning brakes to like new operability without spending any money, particularly useful when working on older bikes.
19:22 those original pads are mismatch between left and right. Someone wasn't paying attention when fitting the leading edge with direction of the rotation. Or is this just the OCD in me? But the mechanical knowledge of rotation and attack of the pad should have the longer section on the pad to the leading edge. This will result in uneven braking between the left and right side of the single disc that can heat the disc uneven also and warping the disc. It can also result in uneven wear of the pads and loss of braking power.
Is it really all water in the rubber thingy? That's amazing! I would have thought it'd be from the brake fluid sloshing around in the reservoir, but that totally makes sense!
Sebastian Cichy ---> An efficient and simple way to get caliper pistons clean is to make a wood block about a half inch thick by about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide. These dimensions worked well for my Brembo M50's, however not all calipers are created equal. So you may have to modify yours a tad to fit your application. Once you have your wood block ready, place it between the caliper pistons. Now pump in some brake fluid to move the pistons out so they bite the wood block. The pistons now have good extension and will not fall out. So... now you have to clean the dirt off the pistons. A toothbrush is a great cleaning tool, but a better way (and gets 100% of the dirt'n grime) to clean your pistons, is to use shoe laces. I like to use white shoelaces so I can see the dirt being removed. Spray some brake cleaner to a section of your shoelace. Using the end of the shoelace, push it into the caliper and thread around the piston and back out. Now slide the shoelace back and fourth on the piston side. If you cross-over the lace, as you are sliding it, you will get 100% coverage. You may need to use a few different sections of shoelace before your piston is perfectly clean. Cheers!!!
@@Ducati_Dude how have i not see your comment a year prior... that sounds like an awesome and easy method while the caliper is still attached to the bike, kudos man
to much force to push those pistons in..that means they need to be taken out and cleaned...clean the seals too!if you push the pistons in with debris on them.they will bite and destroy your seals...pistons are meant to go out with time along with the wearing out of the pads...dont push them in when you change pads!!!!clean them first!!
Not quite, they can be tough anyway because of the fluid, but it would make sense to clean them first for the reasons you state, no need the rebuild the caliper just to do that. A bit of soapy water and a toothbrush will clean them enough to reduce the risk of causing damage, it is rare though, I bet they had no issues, at least for some time.
I generally use the asphalt or concrete surface and do 30 seconds of a figure 8 pattern. A wheel can rip through pad material. If using san paper, use 400 grit. If you are sandblasting, soda blast works wonderfully.
Rotors? I've called them discs for the last forty five years working on bikes, mind you I don't know about triple trees, fenders, swing arm and all the other American speech.Lol
Why didn't you just use the old pads to separate the pistons ? Also why didn't you clean the calipers and pistons before pushing them in ?. Iv also met wizards on the tools for major race teams use copper grease on the back of pads to help with heat ?. Keep the vids coming
For me, I clean the pins and look at them for deformation. I do not use grease as I keep the calipers clean and do not want grease anywhere near my brakes.
When was the last time you cleaned your calipers with a toothbrush and soapy water to check all 4 pistons moved evenly? If it has been a while, be very thorough with that task and use the video we provide.
It can be what you want it to be honestly. I keep all the components in place to minimize pad chatter and having no lubricant for the pad ears makes me feel safer on the track at 100% commitment during races and practices.
Hi Dave, First of all, nice Videos . They helped me a lot. Ive got a question. Last Time i changed the pads and pressed back the pistons, One piston leaked some fluid. Cleaned it with breakcleaner. Built all togehter and Made a testride on the Track. All fine. But my stomach says me to replace the seals in the caliper. Is it worth it ? Dear greetings from Germany
Brake cleaner dries out and cracks seals over time hence the suggestion to use a toothbrush and soapy water to clean the calipers. Yes, it is absolutely worth changing the o-ring seals out if one was leaking. Always follow your instincts!
Before you open the caliper, clamp the brake line with a brake line clamp (very cheap) and open the bleed port and place a hose on the nipple to control where the contaminated fluid goes (into a drip pan of course) .... THEN open your caliper. Doing this pushes all the dirty fluid OUT of the system. If you do it the way shown in this video, your pushing contaminated fluid back to the reservoir. The main cause of caliper failure is contamination. NEVER PUSH OLD FLUID BACK INTO THE SYSTEM. Always out!
Pinch off a steel braided brake line?! Yeah that’s a good way to cause permanent damage to the line. If your fluid is already contaminated you should perform a fluid flush
Hi Dave, what is your suggestion when putting new rotors in, out of the box? I just replaced mine and cleaned them with brake cleaner. Also my pads are new but they have done one trackday with the old rotors. What is the best way to make them work together? Is the pad now formed to the old rotor, even after a session?
I follow the manufacturers suggestions to the letter. If you do not have those, email them and acquire them. General rule of thumb if you have no information is 30mph to a stop with constant 50% pressure, repeat 20 times so you get pad material on the rotor. On track session light prolonged braking in normal braking zones (essentially drag the brakes). Next session more pressure, shorter duration. Third session 80% to start, 90% from half way through to end. Last session, regular pace, normal braking skills in brakes on and off areas.
Stainless lines are an improvement over stock when the rubber lines age after 3 or 4 years (if the motorcycle is stored outside with no cover). They also provide better control/feel than stock lines that are getting old. For the track, they make a big difference.
@@catalystreactionsbw Really appreciate that Dave, I have an older bike, if I'm going to package up a job for my mechanic, may as well change the lines for stainless while he's there, top man.
Maybe stupid remark. When talking about „stainless“ steal the German MOT allows only A4-80 stainless steal (not the cheap A2-70) or titanium at the braking system (including calliper fixing bolts), because A2-70 is not „flexible“. It will break instead of bend. Same thing with bolts at the suspension system. Which makes sense to me.
Why is it that when I see DIY of car videos they pinch off the brake line as to not push fluid back into the master cylinder, yet It is ok to do it for bikes? I'm confused.
Great question. This is normally don when you remove the line from the caliper to clean it or disassemble it. With bikes there is such a small amount of fluid lost in a very short line (comparatively), there's no reason to pinch the line. That's my 2 cents.
That paper towel method is messy. I use cheap syringes from ebay to take out excess fluid. I have a few in case I overfill engine oil or coolant too. (Obviously label them so you don't mix up)
I personally have never greased any backing plate. As I clean my brakes comparatively fanatically, I don't worry about it and my conscious mind rests easy that there is no grease turning to liquid while racing. As with all things, these are personal choices and I have no problem if you do or do not do that.
Dave Moss Tuning ---> Did a brake service recently on a set of Brembo M50's. The new pads were squealing something fierce... so I pulled the calipers/pads back off and applied a bit of high-heat Copper Anti-Seize grease on the pad sliders... Sqealing gone... ✔
Dave Moss Tuning just a hint. No copper grease as soon as your bike has got an ABS-system. Take ceramic grease. In case od spilling off (maybe caused be too extensive use) it will not infect your ABS regulation.
That the pistons have stiction or drag between themselves and the dust/oil seals just like forks. Using a toothbrush and soapy water can help "lube" those seals and ease the piston movement. In addition the soapy resideu will collect brake dust and help reduce corrosion.
That’s a lot of water for brakes on a motorcycle. Especially a bike that is tracked. Have you ever experienced brake fade on a Motorcycle due to the fluid boiling before? It’s scary. It’ll boil far sooner if the fluid is contaminated with water
That's a very dirty caliper😂😂😂 am I crazy that I clean my calipers almost every month and blow them with pressured air every sunday? 😂😂😂 Hmmmm, if I see good there is a sweet yoshimura race rotor on the bike👌nice. But nasty calipers 😂😂😂😂
@@catalystreactionsbw I don't need to use any, as my breathing is fine when I'm on camera. I have lots of footage on my channel. I guess the one time I do breath heavy i when I got hit by a car..But you breath heavy cracking a fairing bolt loose. Do you have a deviated septum?
