As many have pointed out the distributor shaft must point "straight up and down" with the motor at TDC. The best way to know is to put it at top dead center (you can do this by watching the valves move, the timing marks in the harmonic balancer area will show it, you can put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to check). When you are certain that it is at TDC you line up the distributor rotor to so that it is pointing at #1 intake plug, if the rotor is pointing at the #1 contact on the cap the distributor is either right or 180 out. Yes it is a interference and this motor likely needs new valves and potentially new pistons, it is just a spare and I don't need it for anything right now as the motor in my 2wd is good (just replaced the timing parts 2 days ago and it runs great).
First of all, well done for having a go. Good onya mate. If I may, could offer some advice about removing any sort of timing gears/sprockets, particularly if they are bronze? The reason the gears felt "tight" was that they were being levered from one side only. If you must use levers (please don't ever use the carpenter's hammer again) prise from the inside of the gear from two sides 180 apart. Best practice, use a two or three legged puller designed for the job. Also when using pullers protect your snout thread with a small plate or the head of the bolt. Keep trying and just keep giving it a go.
Friendly tip of advice, you can put the oil pump and dizzy gear at the same time , all you have to do is make sure the half moon is facing the right direction. And if my old boss saw me beating in the worm gear and that harmonic balancer I'd be out of a job. If those dont like coming on or off you're supposed to hit the inside of the worm gear with some sort of sandpaper (pref 600grit, get it wet in oil first) and scrub around in there a bit and itll SLIDE ON BY HAND. harmonic balancers and worm gears are hard to get off but should never need any force like you did. Dont hit the pulley either, that's mass rotational force and it helps to balance the crankshaft so it doesnt eat the journal bearings or rod bearings. I have the same engine and the timing process is somewhat on point, besides the fact you took them out and tightened them so profusely- you get inch pound 1/4 torque wrenches and tackle that like so. Those didnt even need to be as tight as you got them. As long as their is some loctite on there it's not going anywhere. Same with the headstuds. They wont back out using high temp loctite. If you're going to take apart that engine, you best know all the little things like that or you be ripping it apart in 10k miles. Also your chevy leaking reference makes me cry cause that block was covered in sludge and your valve cover gasket was leaking so bad there was oil residue by where the spark plug ports are at. I'm gonna make a video about this here soon. 92k views? 92 thousand people know how to do this wrong. Oh god.
@@Trasher_Garage soon enough hopefully😂 but try to keep stress off of that crank. I'll try and tag you in my comment section when I get this all thrown together. .
No sure how the engine ended being that it take a bit for the oil to get to the oil pump , but when putting the oil pump make sure you have oil in it. Also, you're the only one I've seen that show how to put the oil pump/distributor shaft live. Most videos I've seen the edited that part and show only when everything is installed, which defies the whole purpose of an instructional video. In addition, one does not have to worry about the rotor lining up since this is the only way of doing it; meaning that if you have everything else set, timing marks etc, the distributor point to number one upon installation. Its the reverse process on most common timing sets with distributors. On these ones you set the distributor by setting the oil pump shaft first not the other way around.
that engine stand does rotate 360⁰ my friend that's the purpose of having one and great job this engines are great replace oil pump every 50k miles and don't turbo no hard take off that will kill your crankshaft
The shaft in the timing cover drives the distributor and oil pump, it drives off the worm gear. There are alignment marks on the oil pump and the shaft. if they aren't set right, its near impossible to get the distributor set correctly. I found this out the hard way.
Cuz when you installed that timing chain set you didn't tighten that top gear to specifications cuz if you did it wouldn't have done it or either it kicked back and shared that pin off on that camshaft
Trust me this is an interference engine.. I should know I was told it was not put everything back together after a blown head gasket and bent a couple valves... My problem is there were no markings on my chain so we just lined the marks on the cam and crank.. But how do you know if the valves are in the right position... thanks you did a great job...
You can get a timing chain that has markings on it, or line up the old one with the new one and mark with a paint pen. You can slowly rotate the engine with the valve cover off and just make sure they open and close at the right time.
I wish you showed how to remove the timing cover and the timing cover gasket in the front.... mine is STUCK and im worried to break something. I got the pulley off. But how to i get the gasket under the pulley off?
I have the same motor and I had to change the timing chain. I lined up the marks perfect and spun the motor over a few times and the marks didn't line back up at all. Is this normal????
Yes it is normal but if you keep turning it over, eventually it will line back up to your marks. I want to say it might have been 32 revolutions on the crankshaft but it finally did line backup
Can you please tell me if you know about replacing distributor for 1986 Nissan 720 2.4 twin spark carburated engine. I ordered the distributor for 1986 but it did NOT work. It appears my truck is actually fitted WITH a 1984 distributor, can you please offer any advice you have. The current distributor is rusted on the interior. I replaced the distributor cap, spark plugs and it still not running, Now going to try to replace the distributor and see if it will get it to run again.
If you order a 1986 distributor, most shops will ship a 4 plug wire distributor. You need an 8 plug which some parts shops may have listed as an 84. The split model year in 1986 between 720 and hardbody confuses most parts store catalogs.
I was interested in the cam being pushed forward causing the upper and lower to be out of time...but that part was left out I believe, of what the actual problem was and how it was fixed
Oh the actual problem was the bolt holding the cam sprocket on came loose and backed out a little bit causing the cam sprocket to actually slip a little so then everything was just free spinning.
You should go to wall mart and get some cheap brake cleaner. You are scarring me with the possible grit contamination. Other than that great video. You have inspired me to make a vid of my current project which is an 83 720 short cab 4x4 . I have an 84 z24 engine that I got at a scrap yard a few years ago with 147 k. The truck is Black with a sunroof. Going to go ahead and do timing chain , head and pan gasket set while I have it out. Never in a billion years would I have owned a black truck. Well she smells like whoever blew the engine also puked their guts out in it the same night. I am completely striping it to the steel all around inside. Thanks for that thread chaser tip. That with a little lube ought to make those bolts slide right in. j
Hey I'm doing a head gasket change on my z24. Now that I am putting the chain a sprocket back on I do not have enough slack. So I was wondering if you had any tricks to loosen the tension without have to take the timing cover off to get to the tensioner. Plz help I don't wanna take the front of the motor apart.
@@Captain720 that is not what I wanted to hear. Imma give a try any way. Will I need I special tool to pull off the harmonic balancer pully off? Thanx for your help.
I'm sorry I hate being the bearer of bad news. I usually take the balancer off with a 27 mm socket and have never had a problem. Just slowly gently tap all the way around. Many will say the tool is better because it can't damage anything, I just go slow and use the 27mm socket. I personally prefer to put OSK timing parts in there as I like the kit but I have another viewer who says the AutoZone kit comes with metal guides and marked links at half the price but I can only recommend OSK from personal experience. Don't forget you will need a new oil pan gasket for the front section. Good luck! Personally I always replace the lower radiator hose while I'm in there for insurance and take the grill off so I don't have to lean down so far.
Do you mean where did I purchase the cam gear/sprocket and the bottom gear/sprocket? bought the timing parts kit at a local auto parts store, I would recommend trying to get a true JDM one instead of the made in Taiwan ones as the JDM ones are higher quality and have bright links, but the cost $60 more.
you are sadly mistaken on the z24 being an none interference motor they are....also when setting the oil pump/distributor you have to make sure the piston of the number 1 cylinder is at tdc (compression stroke)... imo i would have taken the head off to inspect for damage
you learn by doing,thats not in the book,soak all chains in rear end lube, overnight,lay the chain on a throw away towel for 1 hour,the lube will coat chain parts from inside,and viscosity will hold for weeks to keep startup heat from stretching new or used chain,stretch is the enemy,cam timing is everything,adjusting it hydraulically means squat,ignition timing timing lights are worthless if the cam timing moves,gears are supreme buy some head designs allow only what you see,use the correct lubes it matters
Soaking the chain makes perfect sense but not necessarily required the Hanes manual and many other manuals for this truck never say to soak the chain I've done the timing chain kit on my z22 and it's lasted as a daily driver for awhile
I will see what I can do for you man! I might be able to get a hold of a junk head soon, which I will be able to replace the valves on. Also I would recommend logging onto ratsun.net and starting a build thread, the guys are super helpful and we would love to see your rig!
Thread lock is a option and stupid to use and not recommended for a engine if you ever need to change a part. And these engines are a just send it boost eater engine. Dosn't take a rocket scientist to fix. Its what i call a engine for starters
Google a photo of the timing cover and look at all the bolt holes in it then compare it to the bolts you have removed. Then check the bolts from oil pan and cylinder head. After that TAP it Gently with a small hammer.
@@Captain720 no my front main seal on the timing cover.do i need a puller for the harmonic balancer to come off.and can i remove the seal without taking off the timing cover.
