Nissan CVT p0845 repair. See description for where buy parts. 

This is one of the best videos on Valve body Replacement, if not the best one! Well done!

I can not tell you how much I appreciate this video. Thank you so much sir!

Thank you. I've been searching for a step by step video. I appreciate you taking your time to explain everything. I need to replace my control solenoid. Now I know what to do.

Pay attention where he puts the Allen wrench, THAT IS THE KEY OF GETTING IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. And I wanna say thanks for this video it was a big help.

Short and sweet definitely the best video on the subject thanks from New York. 👍🏻

The best video I've watched on this subject this issue thus far. Well explanatory on step by step move to get it done. Good job

definately best one i've found thanks. Son and i doing same on 06' maxima; after 2-6 weeks of waiting for a new(supposedly) valve body off Amazon. Great directions.

He needs to be an honorary you tube instructor. His attention to detail. His even keel manner to which he instructs. He reminds me of Wilson from home improvement. A plethora of knowledge. Inspires a person to learn.

Great video, easy to understand and follow. Well done!!! You should be on motor trend!🥇

perfect! you are perfect! nobody on you tube has the quality of how to explain things! two thumbs way up for you my friend!!🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎

Man thank u for the video. Very informative and really broke it down without being annoying and saying useless things.

The Allen wrench tip ! Didn’t know and haven’t seen that tip before....had valve body out twice trying to figure why it wasn’t shifting...then I found your video... 3rd times a charm ,A huge THANK YOU !

VERY thorough, and easy to understand. A+

I just picked up a 2012 Nissan Altima 3.5 with the solenoid A code p0746 instead of buying just the solenoid I ordered a new valve body and will be replacing it in a week this video was helpful thank you so much

I watched more then 20 video about stepper motor this is Excellent video with specific information. You are the best...

Thank you so much for this video. Very clear and easy to understand. Great job, thank you

Love the video. This really help me out. Now all I gotta do is get my money together and fixed my late wife's car 💪🤦‍♂️😪🤗

Great Video. Thanks again for helping me out. You do a great job explaining and showing everything.

Replaced 8 parts on the valve body and needed help with understanding a few bolts and this video helped with that thanks

found this vid after finding a loose cylinder ring during reassembly. hoping it’s the shift rod bushing you mentioned. thanks for the detailed video!!

Worked on a 2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0 same valve body. This video helped a lot thank you!

Fantastic video and personality! Need to get you some ramps instead of stands though. Excellent video, you obviously know what your doing!

BLOODY AWESOME VIDEO, you saved my butt. Thank you, I could hug you.

I got a p0850 or p0845 similar codes… I replaced the valve body and it worked.

Video was fantastic! Great details on how to do it.

Great job on the video, your voice is perfect for this

Bro thank you so much god bless you , you save me a lot money with you’re tutorial

Thanks your car guy Managed to swap the solenoids with salvage one's but didn't work, code still on hoping to get a new ones instead of wreck yard and try to see. With Nissan sentra 2008, you have to unbolt every bolt on the valve body to drop it, just note it if you are trying on this car.

Thanks for this video. Simple + Straight forward + I tried it out and was indeed a Solution

I ended up with two of these Nissans. A 14 Altima and a 18 Rogue. So far no issues. I’m going to have my fluid changed every 50k and Hope for the best.

thank you very much. was looking everywhere for a simple video for nissan rogue and this is basically the same. U da man!

Gr8 vid, I am one of the lucky ones, I don’t have a CVT. I have a older 2001 Nissan Maxima, 203k miles It did have P0744 code. And shifting and driving. Badly, almost impossible to drive. Drained fluid, it came out black/brown, no metallic tint or metal shavings. About 1gal came out. I added a little over qts of ATF (valvoline max life synthetic ATF and 1 bottle of Lucus transmission fix). I also cleared the code Drove it 70 miles and the code came back but it was driving a lot better. Continued to drive it 300 miles later it was say 70% better, Shifting from 1->2 had some issues but all other shifts were smooth and mostly on time. 600 miles later it was even better 900 miles later it was almost back to normal. I cleared the code , and saw it was a little over full of ATF, so I pumped out some ATF to bring to right level. Check engine light hasn’t come back And it’s shifting consistently now, though the 1->2 shift sometimes happens a little over 3000 rpm. Only time will tell if this has resolved the issue. It is what it is, it’s old (19), high mileage car(203k) Living on lift support , runs smoothly now and shifting ok now as well. It leaks oil from rear mail seal that is tool costly to repair. It’s now my son’s first car. Hopefully he will get some years out of it. Maybe another 30-50k miles AT-205 and high mileage oil seem to help. I may drain ATF again sooner to get out more of the old fluid. A drain only gets out maybe 45% of ATF .

Thank you so much I try to insert the stepper motor arm and missed 4 time thank you

Great informative video. Thank you for your time and energy.

Thanks for the video you help me so much and save me lots of money thanks again

Thank you I love you for making this video having problems with my versa

Here is my experience: I purchased a 2015 Nissan Murano new in July 2015. We had transmission issues starting week 1! Hesitation and then over acceleration were addressed with multiple software tweaks but never corrected the issue. My CVT transmission failed and was replaced under warranty by Nissan in June 2019 at 52,000 miles. Today 11-29-21, at 62,100 miles, my transmission failed again due to the transmission oil/cooler/radiator assembly failing to cause the cooling fluid and the transmission fluid to mix, resulting in having to replace the Transmission, Radiator, and associated assemblies for a cost to me of approximately $6,700! Based on my research, this is a known issue with Nissan CVTs but was only partially addressed in the Class Action lawsuit because individual owners had to personally sue Nissan and their vehicle models and years were the only ones included in the extended warranty. How a judge does not include all Nissan vehicles with the CVT is beyond me especially when my dealership was replacing three a week when my 2015 Murano's CVT was replaced. All my service was completed at the dealership and we never prevent any work from being done when required. The only upside is Nissan is paying for 80% of the repair but I am still paying out of pocket on something I believe should be fully covered. If I had an Altima with the same issue it would be covered under the class action suit extended warranty coverage but the same CVT with known issues in another Nissan model is not covered!

Great Job 👏 Very great teacher!

Nice video thanks for making it

Allan wrench reinstall OMG life saver, much love

Subbed as well because unlike some RU-vid mechanics you actually do the work.

You have a subscriber for life!

P0845 is a circuit code though, not a performance code. I have fixed these by changing the wiring harness bolted to the valve body for the solenoids. The wire was broken right where it went to the solenoid connector and if you pull it slightly it will come apart because its just held there by the insulation. Never listen to anything nissan says about CVT's. Their fix for everything is to replace the cvt.

I'm about to start this nightmare I'll let you know how it goes thank you for the

Great video!

Great video

Great and amazing tutorial !

very helpful man I really appreciate this

Very Good Video. Thanks so much.

great video

Thanks for the video. I just did this job on my sisters 2007 Nissan, would not have done it if it was not for your video. Like I said before, I got the same codes and the transmission went into limp mode, Took it to a shop and they could not figure it out and sent us to a transmission shop, they too did not know what the problem was as they are new to CVT, but curiously the shop I had just come from sent me to them with a paper copy of the Nissan bulletin stating that the Valve body should be replaced with those codes and symptoms. But the Trans shop said they think it is an electrical issue not a transmission issue after keeping it overnight and said we should take it to an electrical shop. So I said FK it, Studied the service bulletin and found your video and decided to try it out. The refurbished assembly I found on ebay was like $150 and it already had all the parts, Rods/spring/sensor etc so I did not have to move anything from the old CVT assembly to the new one. Your video saved me from screwing things up primary with the info on what bolts to remove to get the unit out (I would have been pulling all kinds of bolts out and made a mess) and how to use the Allen wrench to hold the rod in position while installing. The 2 most helpful points. I also did not need to remove the electrical bracket at all. My fluid looked like motor oil and stunk the whole garage up, it was pretty burnt (luckily it looks like no damage to the rest of the CVT). Got that all put back in no problem. But to keep this problem from coming back in the future I also installed an external cooler (small radiator) to keep the fluid temp from going into meltdown again. I have been driving the car around town the last couple days to see if any issues come up before taking it on the longer commute to work (leaks/error codes - check engine light/ trans acting weird etc). error codes were erased and no code has returned as of yet and the trans seems to be functioning like a new car at this point. A day of work and maybe $300 total in parts and fluid. I can not imagine what a shop would have charged me to do the same job including parts considering I also installed a new block cooler with bypass to the new external cooler. I will start driving it to work tonight and report back in a week or two. Thanks again for the video and the replies to some of my questions, you were a huge help.

Good video good information

Thanks for the good straight forward advice. I own a mechanic shop and this is a lot simpler than I thought it might me. You gave me the courage to NOT send this out to my rebuilder.

Thanks very detailed.. right on

Is the spring connected to the stepper motor supposed to be stiff? Mine wasn't and the p1778 code returned.

I would like to see the all prosses, that's the interesting part

So sisters 2007 started acting up coming home from a couple hundred mile trip. Loud whine, speedometer stopped working and car was running in a lower gear and would not upshift. Took to a basic repair shop and they gave us a print out of that bulletin after doing basic diagnostics, told us codes were transmission related, We do have 2 of the codes listed. 840 and 845. They recommended a local transmission shop. We drove it to that shop (the car now running normally, weird) I have had it on short trips in town and it runs fine, but have not had it on the hwy, I thought it might be a PCM issue. The trans shop kept it for a day and told us they do not think it is the transmission but rather an electrical issue and recommended taking it to an electrical shop. What? They did admit they are new to CVT and do not quite understand them yet. But if the first shop found the bulletin saying if you have those codes then a valve body replacement is needed, why would a transmission shop ignore that and think it is not the valve body and think it is electrical issue? Do you think the shop is wrong? I did not notice the bulletin in our paperwork till after going back through it after watching your video. I offered the paperwork at the time to the trans shop but they did not seem to want it, just wrote down the codes. I plan on heading back over to the transmission shop later this week and ask them why they believe the issue is electrical and not a valve body issue. But just curious what you think. I will be looking for a different trans shop or maybe even the dealer. I am not really set up to do it myself being at an apartment complex. Also, is it common for the transmission to act up and then act normal with valve body issues?

Thank you for posting this video it’s great information. I have a question. I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra 2.0 cut transmission. While driving on the freeway it lost power it went from 60 mph to 40 mph, I made home but I notice that the vehicle wasn’t moving forward only backward, I put a scanner and read code P1777 and code P0845, I changed the stepper motor and after I changed the car now move for forward but not backward and here and then while driving it makes some sort of pull abd feel like it want to get stuck, so what do think my mechanic did wrong when he changed the stepper motor? I scanned again abd keep reading the same codes. Help please. Thank you

I just wanted to say thank you for saving me $3000. This is the single most helpful video I have found on this topic. Nissan quoted me $3000 to replaced the transmission and the techs said that the valve body couldn’t be replaced. I bought a valve body at a junk yard for $50 and now my car is fixed! If I could I would buy you a beer man 👍🏻👍🏻 I would also add one thing, while removing the bolts on the valve body number them with a sharpie so you know which bolts go where. Saved me a lot of headache

On the valve body can you point to me which one is the line pressure solenoid please.. I have my valve body out but don't know which one I'm taking out. They all look like same

Thanks really good video thanks

I replaced the valve body inside the 2010 Sentra and the transmission speed sensor at the front of the engine. Do I need to have it reprogrammed to the tcm on that year model? Or should it move because it still will not move.

Do I have to reprogram the transmission afterwards or is it just “plug and play” because I reaplaced and the code clears then comes back(p1778 and p1777).

that amazing how electrical wire inside oil pan

Excellent!! Thanks

nice video

Ok he only drove about 40 mph if we drive at full speed will the rpm gauge get to where it suppose to be

Thank you 🙏

Before tearing apart your trans change the fluid first, if problem still exists recycle the new fluid after you fix the problem.

What scanners will read the nissan transmission codes ? Nissan website says parts are discontinued...where can we find them and verify fit with vin # ? Great vid.

Great video! does anyone know the torque specs?

I got a p0744 on my nissan juke and im going to be doing this to see if itbqill get rid of the code

So newer models like a 2012 you have to reprogram it at the dealership?

Do you know which solenoid is the pressure control solenoid b? Code can you I replace one I thought was it but it didn’t work.

Do you know if i replace my transmission if i need the dealership to reprogram it? I have this same code remaining after i replaced the valve body with your video.

Is this a JF011E VALVE BODY my jeep patriot one looks similar but I could be wrong

Just ordered valve body got it today about to change just wondering if I need to program anything if I’m only changing the valve body

Sir one question if I change valve and the valve number is different is it ok

Like did you have to kind of knock it down back over it??

Great video I just ordered my valve body for my Nissan quest Did you have to program the new valve body? I’ve been told to install new valve body but reuse old wiring harness

Great video! I have a 2007 nissan altima giving me the same code along with P0744. I had a similar problem a couple years ago with code P1777 and I just replaced the stepper motor. This time I decided to replace the whole valve body as in the video but It still gives me the same codes along with P0778 and P0745 so I am not sure what is going on. I replaced only 7 quarts since that is approximately what I collected when draining. I read on multiple sites that the TCM might need to be recalibrated or something like that since I replaced the entire part. Could that be the case?

So the question is i can i replace a single oil pressure one with a dual oil pressure version

Great Video! Is there any reprogramming involved in replacing the valve body?

Thanks alot

Whats the torque on the bolts?

Had a code for step motor and torque converter , changed fluid n stepper motor and wouldn’t go into reverse after . hopefully replacing this will help going to get new fluid even though i just replaced it and maybe add a cooler as i drive quite alot 🤞🏾the original has 1 oil pressure sensor im hoping i can replace with dual oil pressure as it doesnt need to be reprogrammed

I have an 08 Rogue with code P0845 and drives likes it’s in limp mode. Check engine light is on. We put a rebuilt valve body in it. The check engine light went off and it went back to driving with full power, for about 150 miles. Then check engine light came back on and it was throwing a code that the torque converter was not locking up. Put another valve body in it. Check engine light back on, driving in limp mode and it’s throwing the P0845 code again. Did we get 2 bad valve bodies in a row? The local transmission shops here aren’t helpful. They don’t told me it’s a junk transmission and they don’t work on them.

i replaced my valve body in my 2010 rogue and its still not shifting out of first reverse works great but just wont shift

very good video for me, is it necessary to re-programm the transmission Modul or can you just "plug and play"?

What did you do with the pan gasket? Did you buy a new rubber gasket or did you use a tube of product, or both?

Another question for everyone here. In researching for my 06' Maxima; I found that there were 3 different models by a "serial/part #)?? I think they were Marked T1, T5 & T7. I first saw it on Rock Auto for like $900; then i saw same thing on ebay for $133-250(But you can't trust anything on ebay anymore, & some feedback said stuff was bad" and pretty much saw same thing on Amazon for

Was this done on a 2.5 Altima or a 3.5 I’m trying to figure out if it’s the same process for both I have a 3.5 I’m planning on removing the valve body

Hello sir I really appreciate this video one question is this valve body same as a 2010 Nissan Altima?? Let me know asap please and Thankyou.🙏🏿

I have a code on my 2016 Nissan Altima, P0841 transmission fluid pressure sensor/Switch circuit A range performance.Do you know if the valve bodies are the same or similar,and maybe I can change the sensor. Hoping that a new sensor will help as opposed to getting a new transmission. Any advice or opinions? Great video and very informative

Thank you so much your video is very help full to me and save me money how maney qr of oil pleas 8 or 6

Great video, but you skipped the most important part. How do do place the shift rod back into place

Thank you for your excellent video. Very well done. I have a 2007 Altima 2.5 with 200K miles. Giving codes P0745, P0840, P0845 every time it is started. I can clear the codes, turn the car off and restart it and these three codes come back every time without ever driving the car. It is always all three codes. They always come on after I restart the car. CVT fluid has been changed recently. Would a new valve body fix these problems? I will probably add an external cooler as well if I can get rid of the codes.

is this the same as 2013 nissan altima 2.5 L? getting a p0776code.

Would a dual solenoid valve body work on a 08 2.0 Nissan Sentra

My husband went and got the car he was driving 80 and 85 the rpm didn't get any higher than 3 when he slowed down it went down between 1 and 2 no problem when he was driving so is this good