Recently finished this job and yes it sucks. (2013 Max) Jack the car high enough to fit your entire body underneath it. Look forward to removing the passenger side axle and belt tensioner before attempting to remove the pump for space reasons. Do not remove the front or rear brackets, it's not worth the trouble and I was able to slide the pump out. Remove the high pressure line before un-bolting the pump from the brackets.
Exactly what I did and got pump out in 10 mins...but can't get bolts to line up with holes now. I might have bent the bracket pushing pump out...idk...at a loss
@@Nking300 I have a 13'. Tensioner was 13mm. Bolts attaching bracket to pump were 12mm. I think the large screw in the middle of inside bracket was 15mm but I didn't touch that one to get it out.
I'm working on a 2013 maxima. I removed the tensioner pulley and all the bolts that held pump to bracket. I removed one bolt from the outside bracket at the tip of the long end that has a built in spacer. I was able to get the pump right out without removing anymore bolts from bracket and leaving both brackets still attached. Took me like 10 mins to get the pump out...I've been trying to get it back in for 3 hours now. The one bolt I removed from tip of bracket now doesn't line up with hole. Wondering if I bent that outside bracket with my super-human man strength somehow when pulling pump out. So stumped. Hardest PS pump I've changed yet.
There is one thing hear on RU-vid I could not find the location of the power steering pump switch on a 2010 Nissan maxima u remove the wheel and it's right there under the power steering pump just wanted too post for other guys
Yeah. The bolt goes through a sleeve pressed into the block mould. Put a lever between the bracket and the pump and push the lever toward the gearbox. That will force the sleeve back allowing the bracket to come away. And yes, not a great job to do.....perseverance is the key.
1:13 ese sorpote sabes si lo trae el Nissan Altima 2008 3.5se lo que pasa es que dice mi mecánica que se le tiró una pieza que va atrás de la bomba que hace que salga la bomba para afuera y como no sale por eso rompe la banda.
1:13 Do you know if that straw comes with the Nissan Altima 2008?My Nissan Altima is a 2008 3.5 se, It's just that my band is breaking, the mechanic says it's because the breaket is missing, is that it?
@@JoseGonzalez-ed3mz if the front bracket is missing off the power steering pump then yes the drive belt will get damaged. This reply is assuming I'm understanding the translation properly. It hasn't translated it very well.
🤣 thanks but I'm using Google translate I don't speak English very well, but if it seems that the one on the front is missing, do you know how I can buy it if it has a name in the store?
@@JoseGonzalez-ed3mz in Australia I'd need to go to a Nissan Franchise Dealer to get that bracket or an Auto Wrecker/Recycler for a secondhand one. You're speaking Spanish, so what country are you from?
So did you ever remove the two top bolts holding the front bracket on? I have my old pump off. I can fit the back two fasteners in but can't seem to get the three bolts into the front threaded holes. I was tempted to remove the front bracket like you suggested, but I think it would be a completely blind reinstallation. Would appreciate any help. Thanks for the great video.
Hi Doug. Yes take the front bracket off to get it out. You can fit the front bracket to the pump before installing as there is more room once the adjustable slide in the Engine Block is pushed back. Pushing this right back can be finished off once the pump is out. Go through the video again. I talk about this slide or sleeve as the main cause of difficulty in removing the pump. Hope this helps.
@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 Hey James, thanks for the incredibly fast reply, especially more than 3 years after you made this video!! So I never removed the bolt in the top back bracket, so the back bracket is still in place. So is the front bracket. I simply bent the sheet metal cable holder below the pump out of the way and the pump slid out. I can get the pump back up in place and the back two screws in as I mentioned, but the fronts are next to impossible without losing a pint of blood. So with the back bracket still in place, if I remove the front bracket, install it on to the pump, then slide the pump back in to place, install the back two screws loosely, then I would install the two top front bracket screws. Is that what you would suggest? Can you get a tool in and access those two top front screws even with the pulley installed? Thanks again.
@@dougjohnson504 yeah that's what I'm suggesting Doug as that's what I did. No special tools needed, it's just fiddly and slow. It's one of those 'patience and perseverance' projects. You come out the other side a changed person, no word of exaggeration here. All the best with it.
@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 James you saved the day!! I am no doubt a changed person, but I'm a changed person with an installed PS pump! A couple of observations: 1) if you keep the back bracket on (i.e. you leave the top bolt in place like I did), make sure you put the back bracket bolts in last. The reason is that bracket is only being held by the one bolt and can rotate (which mine did). When I tried installing with the back bolts installed first, the front bolts didn't line up. I simply took a long extension and hammer and tapped the bracket until it lined up with the back threaded holes; 2) those two bolts on the top that hold the bracket are tough to access, but not impossible. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there but a ratcheting end wrench does the trick, albeit very slowly; 3) install the belt tensioner before you install the pump if you are replacing it too. I did not and the upper bolt is nearly inaccessible thru the PS pulley; and 4) taking of the torsion strut off does make access to the top right front bracket bolt much easier. Use a 1/4" ratchet and you can turn it in. You have to remove a lot of other hardware to get it out but it did help. I'm off to install the rack and pinion, etc... but wanted to say thanks, I really appreciate the help.
No. Just clean it out. Ideally I flush a couple of litres of Power Steering Fluid through the system before removal but only it the fluid is really black.
Sure does Buddy. And that's what has developed my patience over the years, among other things, and made me into the person I am today. It's in the trials we are made strong...
I used a long extension (approximately 460 mm long) with a uni type angle connector between the extension and the socket. It will allow you to operate the 3/8 ratchet from the gearbox side freely without anything getting in the way.
@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 Thanks so much that's very helpful. I have several sizes of extensions and I have a uni adapter but I can't seem to get the proper angle to remove the bolt. What do you mean by the gearbox side? I appreciate your help, this is day two that I have been working on this bolt and I am stuck.
@@andyschreiber9530 Hi Andy. I just mean come at the bolt with the long extension from the gearbox side. Its awhile since I done this job and it's the only one I've done so can't remember the precisely what I did and the exact angle.
@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 That worked thanks! Do you remember if there was a trick to getting the back bracket out after the bolts are removed? This thing is a pain in the ...
James Dol Automotive & Diagnostics thinking of changing out mine already flushed fluid and put fresh fluid in but it feels like older Bmw steering heavy lol 😂
There's a sleeve in rear bracket that you need to hit back using a quality sizeable punch. Much like you'll see on most Alternator bracket designs to ensure a tight fit. This is all that stops the pump from coming out. It's fiddly but can be done. You can remove the bolt but again, it's fiddly. Patience and perseverance. Make sure the area is well lite so you can see clearly. I also use an LED mining light on my head. It's a shitty job no doubt about it.
