Those screw heads that look like Phillip’s heads are actually JIS heads. You can tell because of the small dot next to the cross. Japan uses JIS because they are engineered not to cam out or strip when torque is applied. If you use a JIS bit you’ll save yourself a headache because a Phillip’s will strip the snot out of them (ask me how I know). If you ever run across them on an engine that you actually want to put back together, bite the urge to use a #2 phillips and get a $3 JIS bit from amazon, you’ll save your screws and your hair that way.
It occurred to me this morning to see if I should replace the oil pump when I do the timing chain on a high miles vq40. That thing looks damn near atom bomb proof.
Great video. Just what I was looking for. I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap. Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term. What do you think about this idea? If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and 1800 to 3300 rpm. I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts. Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.
I just got done dealing with the issue you described. It ended in a spun bearing. Had to do a total rebuild including replacing a rod and grinding down the crank.
@@unskilledmechanic9601 thank ya. So if I caught it early can I maybe get away with removing/replacing bearings, inspecting and measuring crank journals, and increasing size of any bearings that require it? I'd also hand sand the crank journals to smooth any spots that may have some damage from old bearings. I don't want to take the motor out presently.
I don’t think you’re going to be able to do any of that without pulling the motor. Even if you could I don’t think I would. I think rod bearing clearances were 0.0008-.0014. If the cranks got visible damage I’d think it would be out of tolerance.
@@unskilledmechanic9601 from what I've seen online most vehicles can have the mains and rod bearings changed in the car. There's a way to roll the mains around using a machine screw of appropriate size through the oil hole. And then using light and fine sand paper, with wide shoestrings the crank can be sanded where needed. I doubt it will have visible damage. Or shouldn't since it wasn't operated much after it started.
@@thesetruths1404 accessing the main bearings and rod bearings requires dropping the lower half of the motor. Not possible on my truck. Maybe there will be enough room on your pathfinder. Good luck.
@@HVASEA Thanks! Both those gaskets were intact. We actually reused the gaskets they were in such good shape. Don't think that was my issue. We couldn't actually find anything wrong other than the spun bearing.
