No.1 Training Method of Pro Climbers

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Training Boards seem to continually be gaining popularity among the masses. Helped along by the catalyst of modern commercial boards like Kilter, Moon and Tension. And of course the #instagram phenomenon of posting your hard board climbs, #beta #flex. However board climbing has a longer history and has been used as the go-to training method for developing superhuman strength. Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon, a pair of the strongest climbers of their time, can be seen training on the original moonboard in one of the first ever bouldering movies (The Real Thing). And to this day the strongest climbers in the world use board climbing to reach the upper echelons of climbing performance. Board climbing might just be the best form of strength training for climbing? However, board climbing is intense and not something you can just add to your training from day one. It requires care and consideration to get the most out of this method and avoid injury. So in today's episode of Fundamentals we cover some basic principles you need to know for board climbing. We also give you two training sessions that are excellent for developing your strength and power; project session and tension session.
Project Session;
2-3 Limit Projects, 20 mins each.
3-5 mins rest between attempts
3 Levels to this session; Limit Moves, Limit Links & Limit Boulders.
Tension Session;
4 well know problems
Keep a foot in contact with a foothold at all times - no cutting loose! Have up to 5 attempts on each boulder taking 1-2 mins rest in between where needed.
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
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Опубликовано:

5 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 19

@kajesimpson126 2 года назад

This definitely needs a part 2. Maybe even a part 3

@codyheiner3636 2 года назад

I like the point about getting a baseline for your current body condition by climbing a well-known climb to start the session. I have been doing the same thing as well by warming up with some easy bodyweight hangs on a good edge - if it feels super easy and like I could hang forever, I know my body is well rested and strong, whereas if I feel a little soreness in the fingers or fatigue, I know I shouldn't expect 100% performance from myself that day.

@RemusKnowles 2 года назад

Jen: don't focus on grades me: thank god, as I can't get up Jen's 6Bs on the board at Lattice 😅

@RealWorldClimbing 2 года назад

Loving board climbing (moon) and it takes some getting used to. I especially like that they have to-do lists where can save warm-ups, projects, and any other categories.

@jMelo215 Год назад

Need a part 2!

@hydra66 2 года назад

I cant hold on the board for the start moves - this is to work on for the far future

@sentfromdaniel Год назад

The big angle board training made me pull a tendon in my right ring finger. Didn’t realize the girl set it to a v5 when she said to give it a go. It felt good until I tried the third move and dropped. Then she said v5! 😂 I only started climbing in spring and made it a rule to never try anything above a v3-4 on vertical angles. Finger is about healed and gonna stick to lead climbing basics. Get comfortable with clipping and start leading more 9’s and 10’s

@bsmonkey6036 2 года назад

Does anyone have a recommemdation for wooden holds? Not any hogh end stuff just hold i can put up on my home wall to have some fun with. The wall is about 50° (i know, pretty steep but its okay). Ive thought about making wooden holds myself but it seems to be quite difficult. So if u have any hold sets to recommend or websites to visit for wooden holds reply here. Thank you in advance I know its not rly about grades bit just for your orientation im about a V6 climber 😁

@rogeryat8726 2 года назад

Try to search wooden enginer on your country and request some hold its totally cheap and good for learning if u want to create some hold

@rockiesbouldering 2 года назад

Tension makes great holds, as does Beastmaker in the UK. But if you are climbing v6 consider changing the wall angle so you can use smaller holds.

@maximebarber3780 2 года назад

Euroholds

@richardhorst6810 2 года назад

Metolius has awesome wooden holds.

@Domje 2 года назад

Taylormadeholds or Silly goat

@maximebarber3780 2 года назад

My gym does not have any boards 😭

@Blindmin 5 месяцев назад

linus climbing tips

@jobobminer8843 2 года назад

I wish you had explained what the Boards are a bit more. You talked a lot about how to effectively board climb but didn't really mention what exactly a board is.

@LatticeTraining 2 года назад

Some commercial examples of boards are Moonboard, Kilter board and Tension board. Here we are training on a custom build (Moonboard in the background), often called a woody because of the wood holds or wood construction that people use at home. Though you may see some boards called a spray wall or splatter board when the have a large mix of holds in seemingly random arrangement. Boards are typically flat overhangs (30-60 degrees) with a large range of holds but no defined or set problems. The problems are made up later by those that climb on the board. Leaving lots of room for imaginative setting, or space to set in styles that target weaknesses or strengths.