No 9mm!!! Reload your own! Intro to 9mm Reloading. 

Hey new reloaders, some more tips from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is almost everything I know on the subject. If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice. If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of 1.5 hours for a hundred rounds for a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes cleaning, drying, set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them. Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. Notice all the lights Larkin has here. And a solid looking bench. Nice. ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals. There is a case length specification, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length. Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case and can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that. Clean up your equipment, dies, scale, caliper and bench when done. Then toss out the trash. Some of us deprime before cleaning, it gives a clean primer pocket. ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry. Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round. Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money) NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured. ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both. Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out. Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin') Many powder manufacturers list their loads online. Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem. Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes. Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefor crimp may vary. This can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets. A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out. 380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently. 38 special can be reloaded with 357 magnum dies.

You might want to edit. You are going to confuse new reloaders by telling them that C.O.A.L stands for case overall length. There is a difference in case and cartridge.

This video makes me smile. I have a handful of cases where I forgot to seat the primer. I have loaded about 11k 9mm cartridges in the last 7 months or so. I load for my sons and myself but prefer 45acp as my primary carry option. Yea, when it comes to pistol you have it under control. Wear those safety glasses when you are doing the primer pick up. I run a Dillon along with 3 additional presses , but like loading for rifle best. I enjoyed your video and wish you the best with your channel!

If one is new to reloading, start on a single-stage first. Not only will it save on costs, it will teach one how to reload using the proper steps.After getting the basics down, then decide if a progressive press is right for you. Finally, NEVER be in a hurry, with any style of press, get a rhythm and a pace that allows constant monitoring of your work. Remember: this is supposed to be fun!

Great demonstration of the progressive setup.

I haven't seen small pistol primers on a shelf for about a year now.

Thanks for posting. I load 9mm on an old Dillon 650 with a case feeder, and it is nearly like having an ammo factory in the garage. I enjoy the reloading process, maybe as much as shooting .

Kinda hard to reload anything when you can find/buy primers..

always wanted to learn this wish I could do it in person with someone

Good video. You should have a go no go gauge for all automatics it will save a lot of headaches.thanks

Damn, Real Bullets!

Great video and just subbed 👍🏻

I have been reloading for years and I definitely would not recommend to someone just starting out to go with a progressive press. To much going on at once. The LEE turret press would be perfect because you can use it as a single stage press also just by removing the indexing rod. Then once the new reloader feels comfortable they can go back to the indexing turret.

C.O.L. or C.O.A.L. means the same thing: cartridge over all length. Your load data source must give you a C.O.L. or C.O.A.L. and you must hold that value within +/- .005. or as close as you can. Too much, and the bullet ogive will be jammed in the lands start ramp in the chamber. Too little and the bullet base will use too much case volume and the max chamber pressure will be too high. This is particularly important in straight wall case pistol rounds like 9mm, 40 cal, or 45ACP.

Good video I know it takes a lot of time and effort to make these videos. Thanks for posting. I noticed you do not remove primers before tumbling. Do you have any problem with moisture retained in the primer pocket/case? I dry tumble just because it seems to be a lot fewer steps. Do you add any case lube before running them through the press. On my Dillons (550 & 650), things seem to run smoother in the sizing die at the stage that flares the case if there is a tiny bit of lube.

Good advice about no distractions during the reloading process. Do you run into many 380 cases? They will mess up your Rhythm on a progressive. Stopping to remove one of those devils spawn 380’s sucks.

I have been reloading for 40 years, there are NO primers for sale anywhere, powder is really hard to find, and a lot of bullets (the popular ones for sure) are also hard to find. Even re-loading equipment, dies, etc are in short supply, some places like Midway USA have a notification when they are back in stock. I am on a primer waiting list at my local gun store, last week I was informed they got 1,300 primers in and I could buy 100 after a 9 month wait. My dealer does not gouge, only charging $5 per box of 100. I cast lead for my handguns, so bullets are not a problem.

Looking to get in to reloading, both pistol (9, 40, and 10) and rifle (5.56, 270, various .30s, and 350) cases. For rifle, I am thinking of doing two press set-up assembly. First would be a single stage to decap, then tumble, then back to the single stage to neck size, following with a trimmer. Changing neck sizing dies to match caliber. Second press would be a progressive set up to prime, charge, seat bullet, and crimp neck. Changing the turret with dedicated dies mounted for each particular caliber. Buying a new caliber components and turret set up each year until I have what I need to load for the rifles I have. Would Lee's loadmaster progressive be acceptable for a budget minded, able to grow set-up?

You might not want to load bullet with no powder. That’s a good way to get a squib if you get sidetracked and forget about that round.

in case anyone doesn't know, all brass has some lead it in so not a great idea to eat while playing with brass, just fyi

You should lube your cases, yes, even pistol ones. Everything will become suddenly much smoother without case stucking in the sizing die :)

I only had 1000 small pistol primers. I loaded nothing but hollow points

Who uses vihtavuori n350 slow handgun powder ? 9mm reloading . 115 gr FMJ-RN , 5.7 gr load , AOL 1.140 , PCC 16" barrel . what the velocity there no data out there .. i would guess about 1350 FPS

NAING LIN Aung 1978 9mm Reloading in BlazeR❤

What about checking your case lengths, trimming and deburring your scrap brass?

Hodgkins manual? Never heard of it.

How often are you checking to ensure the charge weight is still the same?

what is a good manual reload press for a person that is just starting ?

My question is how did you get it to cycle rounds i loaded 2 and they would not cycle, i measured the powder.

Hello, appreciate your efforts, but I quickly noticed that one very important factor was not mentioned in your video.. and I have seen so many 'teach to reload' pistol ammo clips that omit/overlook the same thing. Check the case length and trim as needed. 9mm/45ACP and many other pistol cartridges head space on the case mouth. The case length is critical to correct functioning of the ammo. For 9mm, proper case length is .744 to .754 inches. This needs to be checked AFTER the sizing operation, prior to any other operation. Cases too short should be discarded (does not happen often). Cases too long need to be trimmed. Personally, I trim every 9mm/45ACP case that I reload. The case length is also critical to a proper crimp. Uniform case length allows uniform crimping, which enhances accuracy. Yes, a crimp set for a .744 case, when used on a .754 case will dramatically affect things, turning a light crimp setting into a heavy crimp on the longer cases. Also.. when you showed adjusting the die for bullet seating. Why did you pull the die out of the press, instead of using the adjustment knob on the die? The knob is obviously there to allow for easy, very fine seating depth adjustment. IMHO, a progressive press is great when you are using new factory brass that is LIKELY already of proper case length (but you still should check anyway). But when you have to check the case length, and often trim, the progressive kinda becomes a little redundant because the check/trim means that you can't just load a shell into the progressive and run it thru. Pain in the A$$ for some people to interrupt the process by sizing the shell, pulling it from the press, measure/trim/chamfer/deburr, then stick it back in the press to finish. BUT, for 9mm, cases that are not the correct length, could lead to a not safe ammo condition. One might be better served to have a single stage press to use for sizing/decapping. Then check the case length and trim as needed. After the case is properly prepped for headspace, now use the progressive to finish the process.

How did you dry the brass, after it was washed/tumbled ?

Good luck finding primers

What press are you using

What reloader was u using ?

wow never hear of range letting you pickup brass. maybe your own but thats about it. they sell this stuff and never give it away free.

Do you have any 243 brass you don’t need?

no first step is to pay waaay to much for primers

The crimp die was not causing the cases to get stuck, in my opinion it's the resizing die. The cases where fired from a Glock. It's known as the Glock bulge. Recommend using a Lee Bulge Buster for nine millimeter. Just an opinion

Hit estate sales for the primers. Old guys retire and get into guns and reloading. I found 2000 today! Patience dudes, it will rain primers next year.

భుశుండికా భద్రత మరియు ఆత్మవిశ్వాసం కోసం పెట్టుబడి। 🍬 -

seems more trouble than its worth lol ....the way I see it you have to PAY to PLAY

Wow you like using your mouth, I mean Over explaining