I wish I'd become a HVAC tech as a young man. Took classes at age 50 and got hired but ended up changing fancoil air filters at a huge office complex. Still, it was enjoyable work and had its challenges, working above suspended ceilings with whiny office dwellers below! Best job of my life.
Nice work Sir. I enjoy watching these HVAC service call videos. The reason why some label the colours "W" for white etc is because there are some people that are colour blind. So they don't cross the wires. I used to work alongside my supervisor for many years who was colour blind and I had to do all the wiring work for him so he doesn't blow the thing up hahahaha !! By the way, those wall anchors you use are the only type I use. In Australia here, we refer to them as Wall Mates..
Hello Ted, thanks for showing us the Jack of All Sprays, I've been using it since Oct. 2019. I see why you use it. Thanks for the info and making the videos.
Another trick I found if the whole wall is cold/hot (where we rent the thermostat backs against a bathroom that is right at the furnace, it's always hot/cold even with the vent blocked off) I took some of those foam outlet/lightswitch cover insulator pads and put them behind the thermostat. Just cut them to size, notch for the wire and screws, loosen the screw, and slip them in then re-tighten. No need to unhook any wires even.
In my small tool pouch I call my “thermostat install bag” I have some 1 ¼” and some 1 ¾” drywall screws when the small screws won’t reach.. I also carry the “good” anchors like Ted’s
Did you try a battery change with known good new batteries, i have been on call outs when only the battery's needed changing, those latching relays in the unit need a voltage of three volts to trip the latching relay to the reverse contacts?
I don't understand why they never want any preventive maintenance. Coolant lines develop leaks, coils get dirty and capacitors get weak. All these things can just burn out a compressor or fan before their time.
He wasted a Thermostat. I saw that too. The yellow cool wire was loose. He did not need to replace the thermostat. Waste of time and money. Bad troubleshooting skill.
Those stickers are there in case you don't have a standard 5 wire with the colors that you need. For example I just did a house with an old Silk sheathed three wire and two separate single wires both White going back to the furnace in that case it's how you identify which one is what wire for what circuit it does. It's mainly for old homes that have had their systems not properly updated and just added onto over the years.
You should have taken the blue out and put in the common. Batteries are just another failure point. Also a thermostat with no power tells you a lot; overflow or blown breaker. I would never put a customer on batteries if there is a C wire.
Never walk across a homeowners nice lawn! You walked around your truck as to go out of your way to do so. It’s worse than walking into the home with muddy boots. Courtesy and respect.
So exactly how would you suggest I get from the unit to the truck and back etc ? You can NOT avoid walking on SOME grass in that yard.... Are you saying walk on the yard only when needed and to minimize the amount of steps I take on the grass as much as possible or what ?
Set "387" to "2" you don't need 5 minutes of delay, no sense in it when 2 is plenty.... Also, (ALWAYS) set 340 to "0", they have a 3* droop setting built in to them for heat kit on operation, not "DROOP" is needed, should (ALWAYS) be set to "COMFORT" or "0". Normal non programmed setup is as follows for simple manual on/off operation... (ALWAYS) hook up common, if not enough wires, hook "G/FAN" to "Y" inside air handler/furnace. This is the way i (ALWAYS) set mine up when installing for dependable system longevity. 120 = 0 NO PROGRAM SCHEDULE 125 = 0 TEMP INDICATION "0" FAHRENHEIT "1" = CELSIUS 200 = 2 HEAT PUMP 205 = 7 AIR TO AIR HEAT PUMP 218 = 0 O/B FOR REVERSING VALVE SETTING "0" FOR COOL, "1" FOR HEAT. 220 = 1 COOL STAGES = 1 221 = 1 HEAT STAGES = 1....AUTOMATICALLY HAS EMERGENCY HEAT ADDED INTO SELECTION OF "1" 300 = 0 MANUAL CONTROL BY USER OF HEAT/COOL/AUX/OFF 340 = 0 HAS AUTOMATIC 3* OFFSET BUILT INTO TEMP SETTING FOR HK 365 = 3 COMPRESSOR CYCLE RATE 375 = 9 HEAT KIT CYCLE RATE 387 = 2 TIME DELAY, 5MIN NOT NEEDED TOO LONG SO SET TO "2" 430 = 50 LOWEST THERMOSTAT SET POINT 431 = 90 HIGHEST THERMOSTAT SET POINT 435 = 0 NO KEYPAD/THERMOSTAT LOCK CODE 702 = 0 NO AIR FILTER REMINDER 1400 = 0 TOUCH + - TO LIGHT UP THERMOSTAT 1410 = 12 CLOCK SETTING 12HR OR 24HR MILITARY TYPE 1415 = DEPENDS TIME OF YEAR, 0 DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME OFF, 1 DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME ON 1420 = 0 TEMPERATURE OFFSET forwardthinking.honeywellhome.com/related_links/thermostats/tseries/Lyric_T6_Pro_Wi-Fi_Installation_Instruction_-_33-00181.pdf
My unit work fine until it reach the set temp. Then the compressor cut off and nothing but the inside fan run. I have a 2 months old Honeywell programmable thermostat. I keep it on hold. My a/c unit is 27 years old. I called Premier Heating and Air. He said the unit was 30 years old and he could not find the problem. I was going to let them install a new system this Saturday for $5,100. Then i saw this video and I cancel the deal. I will upload a video if I fix the problem.
I hate how there's always so little slack in the thermostat wires. I've had to slot the wall a few inches higher mount the thermostat higher up (still covering the whole slot) just to get some slack for connections.
I love and use those anchors too, but upgraded to the metal version. The metal version will act as a wood screw if you hit a stud. The plastic ones will destroy the drywall and ruin your location if you hit a stud.
Anti DIY HVAC because occasionally you think that you’re in the clear using one of the plastic anchors but you hit wood, the anchor stops driving forward but continues to turn and destroys the drywall. Don’t ask me how I know :-) When this occasionally happens, the metal version of this anchor will keep moving forward and drive into the stud without destroying the drywall.
@@jskidpatrol mark your locations, then push your t stat screwdriver into the wall. You'll know whether there's a stud or not. That way, you won't be trying to force an insert that isn't supposed to go into wood.
I have the same style Honeywell, except with the WiFi capability. Personally, I like them, easy to install (when you have the right amount of wiring). What don’t you like about them? Maybe you’ve ran across a situation I haven’t thought about.
Why not use the wire instead of batterys still? If program is not being used now it could in the future though. That is just limiting stuff for no reason it seems
Usually when you have batteries you don’t really want to hook up the common power wire. The batteries start to go bad. The thermostat continues to power up on the 24v power. The thermostat will never display the low battery symbol. So the customer will never think to change them. The batteries will start to leak the acid over the years and mess up the circuit board in the thermostat. T-stat warranty will be voided due to the obvious corrosion in the thermostat. On every maintenance we always replaced the batteries in the customers thermostat. We buy big packs of Duracell of energizer. Your talking cents per battery. It’s not worth a call back so customer gets new batteries. Plus it’s called a maintenance that we are performing.
Absolutely...poor installation, be having to replace the batteries all the time. I inspect mine twice a year like you do smoke alarms...but when the batteries get low all kinds of wackyness
So the older (but not really old) Honeywell Thermostat was bad! Cheap junk? Then you replaced it with another Honeywell from your truck. So it seems that Honeywell thermostats break in a few years just like all other brands of thermostats. Right? Be careful when you trash other brands of thermostats - 'cause they all break sooner or later. Right?
The instructions in the consumer DIY thermostats tell them to put the stickers on when changing over the wires to the new stat. They do what they're told even if it's not necessary, haha.
Seeing how there are labels on the thermostat wires at the thermostat, I'd say that the thermostat you removed was installed by the homeowner. Really hope a "professional" didn't use those.
Ok, I am just curious, (as a homeowner with the same t-stat), what exactly is wrong/bad about that thermostat? Is it just a preference thing or are there inherent problems with it? Thanks
Real techs pull stat off wall and ohm y to rc on the pins when calling, no? Also at furnace y to c, was zero. Should have proved a no voltage reading with a voltage reading. (r to c), your a good egg, Charlie Brown, I'm just a dick like that lol
