I like that you always take a few extra minutes to make a job neat and complete. At this point I’ve probably watched the majority of your videos, best part is the knowledge I’ve gained in addition to the enjoyment watching and listening to you. I’d not seen the Schrader bits like you used. I’ve already ordered one while this video was running, thanks Ted! This is the only HVAC channel that analyzes chalk art too. 😊
I like to take my sharpie and write the value of the capacitor on the inside of the electrical compartment. I am retiring soon, so it is for the benefit of the next tech.
Bob Gallo glad you do that. I’m 24 and I do it for the pm guys that are newbies so they don’t have to take it out and look at what it is. Wish everybody left notes lol
in the last ~2 days, I think I have seen ~10 of your videos. They are addictive. Especially watching an honest professional. I had put American Standard Units last year at my house to replace the JUNK Lennox. I have 1 more Lennox unit, this is a heat pump...I was debating getting a Goodman because they are made right here in Texas, but after watching videos on all the issues. I think I will go to Trane or American Standard. I believe they are both owned by Trane.
Seems odd that you would just use value of old capacitor. They could have replaced with wrong value in past. Don't you have a better source for cap values?
@@arlynsmith9196 I believe you are correct. never seen a goodman with an aftermarket titan capacitor. the date code said 2015. could have added to how quick it failed, along with the other issues.
@@robertl.fallin7062 Everything they spec for these machines is to fit goodman cheap specs...yes Copeland scroll,but spec'd for Goodman pricing, so cheaper quality than say, a Trane. (From what I understand-- could be very wrong. just saying , lol)
Wow almost a 20 degree split but that Goodman was made about 2007 and they're nothing but leakers condenser coil is nothing but junk and the evaporator coil leaks too have a great day sir
That Goodman unit appears to be a GSC130241AB condenser and the outdoor motor looks original. That should be a factory 35/5 mfd capacitor, not 35/7.5. A prior tech must have installed the wrong capacitor😮. Always check motor nameplate if suspicious; you usually catch everything 😊! 7.5 mfd is very rare on a Goodman unit, but somewhat common on Nordyne & Carrier products.
Man I have so much trouble charging when it is cooler out. My numbers are always crazy and I don't have the experience yet to really rely on. Usually ends up with me calling a senior 100 times a week to see what they think.
Suggest you throw the old capacitor brackets in an old box of use brackets in case you have a customer that needs one same thing with your old Freon cap style Sofas in a little container for used Freon cap covers you always have something to use down the road or give to a customer if you need
You should have tested it before you put the cover on and straighten up the wires so at least it could be cooling off the house and you know the units working fine while you straighten it up as a good Tech?
Of course when you say "the last one in there" and it's a Goodman. Chances are that would be the factory guy during manufacturing 😂. They come like that! Lol
The SC77 you use in this video is no longer available, is there a substitute to this meter, I work on major home appliances and it would be nice to have a meter that would check capacitance
I find it odd you just guessed how much refrigerant to add because you deemed it "not worth it" to calculate the correct amount, because the "tone" of what they told you. With the new Fieldpeice or Testo gauges it's arguably easier just to do it correctly. The worst kind of HVAC guys are the ones that just "Tops it off"
I wish you worked up in Asheville NC! I’m buying a house and need a new gas furnace and coil, as the house has ceiling cable heat or radiant ceiling heat
I really like your videos. But the customer doesn’t pay to have there charge r-22 Guest at. When it’s 90 degrees out. I super heat or sub cool everything every time. Sometimes mismatch equipment doesn’t cooperate too well and I’ve had to guess but I always tried to superheater sub cool first. No disrespect you do awesome work just my opinion.
Wouldn’t you want to do a full system diagnostic and check subcool and superheat along with the pressures to ensure your refrigerant charge is correct and that there isn’t a further issue. Especially if your charging the customer a diagnostic fee. I would think we would want to give the customer options to get the system back as close as possible to manufactures specifications.
Why do all of that to a machine you know has a leak ?? Bring it to spec. for how long ? You do realize the system is losing R22 at all times right ? So how long would the charge stay exactly the same ??
I'm a new technician received my E.P.A and R-410a license last month any tips you could possible pass on would be great as far as how to stay fresh after you leave school.
Watch this channel he has lots of good content. Also check out Steven Lav's channel too. Reddit has some good stuff on it too, but you'll have to weed out all the trash. (r/hvac)
NO I would never use any silly thing such as "leak seal" .... especially not on a unit that feed upstairs and/or has lines inside the wall. You would never be able to flush all that "glue" out when it is time to replace the system..... and I just checked the vales to make sure they were tight with a Klein 8 in 1.
Lennox units are expensive, there parts are too but are good units. All major brands have a 10 year parts/compressor warranty if registered properly online. In my 30+ years, I've seen every brand have a pre-mature catastrophic failure and every brand last for 20 years, it's a roll of the dice. I would be more concerned that the unit is installed properly, duct is properly sized and unit is properly sized.
R22 leaks are not worth looking for. If it is a valve maybe but what do you suggest when they pay money for a leak test and find out it is a coil leaking ? What would your next course of action be ?
@@TedCookHVAC no i was just wondering, i work in the automotive field so its a different ball game. I wasn't second guessing anyone or nit picking them I was actually genuinely curious
Anti DIY HVAC I think I my point was the filter was pretty dirty which could lead you to believe the system was undercharged. Without determining superheat/sub cooling you have an incomplete picture. But you’ve been doing this much longer than me so I will defer to tour methods.
Scales ?? What good would that be in this case ?? I guess I could recover all the refrigerant, weigh in the factory charge, then add 0.6 oz. per foot of liquid line above 15 ft. ?? All for a unit that is leaking anyway ? No scales needed for a gas-n-go on a leaking R22 unit.
Anti DIY HVAC All you need the scale for is so you how much to charge them! I’m assuming everybody treats a a gas-n-go the same. You subtract the tanks weight when you finish from the weight when you start and bill them by the pound. Nobody customer wants to pay another hours labor to critically charge a leaker. They’ll save that hundred for Freon the next time they call. He’s not cheating the customer, he is doing them a favor! And yes I know it’s refrigerant and Freon is a brand name.
R22 ? It's been banned here for years and if you still had a R22 system the authorities would force you to switch over at great expense to a new politically correct gas .
They just stopped producing virgin R22, you can still run the unit till it dies and buy recycled R22. You can also recover the R22 and charge it with R407c or one of the other substitutes.
