No Crank No Start! Toyota Camry 

I've manged to get my wife to do it when I am watching the videos. Best regards from the south of Great Britain.

Yep I'm starting to do the Doodle Le Doo's too.

I’m not going to admit to any of that.

Gravity has taken over as well.

@@lechatbotte. we need a T shirt with gravity and a picture of a falling 10mm socket

If they're annoying to you, try driving a lowered JDM car. Shit drives my insane

I like the fact that I have really bright LED lights. When people drive towards me with high beams on, I just turn mine on since I know mine are brighter and more blinding. Is even more funny when they turn theirs off and then flash for me to turn mine off.

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Nothing that a huge led bar can't fix.

From someone in a 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GT that is consistently blinded by low beams on cars without LED or HID lights, please do as this commenter suggests, some of us cannot see for almost a minute after passing you with your brights on.

LoL yah day time driving lites front not that tiny rear end, ah but THOSE people have to come to a full stop to turn and/or signal after turning or LANE change then drive 18 miles with signal on. maybe just distracted driving.

We have the same here...In the daytime you are allowed to run DRL's only and no light on the back. A lot of french cars, you have to turn on the light when you start it, and you can not leave the switch on because the headlamps and whatnot will not turn off, with the ignition...What it will do, is bong at you relentlessly until you turn off the light, manually before exiting. Result....A lot of people in french cars, will drive with their puny LED DRL's in the front and NO light in the back. Have had a few close calls with slow moving vehicles with no rear light on... Only advantage is that i get to test my high beams and horn thoroughly when it happens. :)

@@JohnDoe-bd5sz My 2018 Ford (EU Version) also is not easy at the lights. Let me explain: Light switch: Auto (turns on and off (almost) as expected including fancy stuff: headlight beams following bends (i like) and automatic high beams (i hate, because half the time those engange even so there is oncoming traffic). Switch at low beams always on position, there is no fancy stuff. When I turn the ignition off, all lights get switched off automatically, but the car still keeps beeping at me. Why does it not beep at me, when the light switch is at "0" !? Sorry for the rant. It made me go back to an older car with less brainboxes. Now I can forget to turn the light on and off all by myself :D

There’s a reason the cluster dims it’s telling you your headlights are on and you gotta turn up the dash lights. My car got DRL and then it flicks to the main headlights when it’s dark I keep it on auto so I don’t have too remember to turn them on. There’s a sensor in the dash that detects the sunlight and automatically flicks between the two so even during the day the lights are on. Also got parking light selection that just turns on the parking lights so you don’t sit there shinning the headlights blinding cars that might be coming down the road.

@@florian7492 yeah, the GM vehicles i have driven over the past 20+ years have all had a function that if you left it on "lights on" it would just turn off the lights with the ignition and not beep at me at all. last 2 cars have had auto light so i just leave them on auto. The french cars i mention that are from before 2015, usually dont have any light sensor, so no autolight. As said, have had a few near misses, where someone drove on an unlit road at 50 miles per hour and i met them in a slight bend, so i saw them pretty late....And they were doing well below the speed limit as well...Which is understandable when driving with only LED DRL on. Why they did not think.."Hmm, i seem to be unable to see very far, maybe i should turn on the headlamps on the car".. Once i met such a vehicle in the pitch black winter mornint, and braked hard...After that i flashed them a few times, but they did not seem to react. I ended up just dropping back a bit, hit them with the high beam to illuminate them for other motorists and put on my hazard flashers as well. Still took them a good 30 seconds before they apparantly realised why the "id1ot" behind them lit them up, and turned on the hazard flashers. Sadly this is not something the police prioritize here, in my opinion they should get their rear lamps coded to be on all the time, if they are this poor at remembering to put them on. I guess this problem is also the reason the EU mandated that all cars sold after a certain date back in 2015, was required to have auto-light.

Percussion troubleshooting.

Well that what you told the police it was for! 😉

I was stuck somewhere years ago and had to use the only thing in my trunk..... a golf club!

Why not install some sort of electric-driven "hammer" directly on the starter? :D Some old solenoid will be fine. #makeitcomplicated

there’s a difference between testing a component and being too tight to buy a new one 🤣🤣🤣

Ahhh. The old replace the starter starter job for our younger selves. Mine was a 68 mercury Monterey in late 70’s. Lol OMG I loved that car

Parts departments used to carry solenoid contacts as well as bushings/bearings and brushes for their starters. The contacts cost a lot more than 2/3 of a penny!

What is that an English Penny or an American penny have a good night

Yea its a toyota look were the start is located

Yea if u can't see at night without ur highbeams on then u shouldn't be on the road at night. A lot of the time it happens, itll be a little old lady or man sitting right up against the steering wheel. U know damn well they probably should quit driving.

@@davidtryon1205 or we could go back to high beams requiring a pull back on the turn signal lever, since having it flop forward and stay there means randomly as the turn signal gets used it can flop into that forward position, leaving it sitting in the high beam position so that when it gets dark, the high beams are on already and the operator has no clue...except for that little blue light that they've learned to ignore. But then there's the people running around with the auto headlights switched off because they think it'll drain their battery, so at night their fancy gadget filled dash lights up like it's daytime and the DRL's are working and they THINK their headlights are on so they run around with no taillights and they are SO much fun to come up on around a curve, since they can't see with the DRL's since they're so dim and they are driving 20 under the limit. These cars with DRL's and fancy lit up dashboards should be able to tell how light it is outside and dim accordingly if it's not daylight. Then without the speedometer and trip computer glaring them in the face, they'll be able to see out the windshield to realize their lights are NOT on.

In the UK this is covered in Highway Code Rule 114 and is generally observed. I drive on a lot of rural country roads and only encounter continuous highbeams from oncoming cars a couple of times a year although occasionally some drivers are a bit slow at turning then off.

@@davidtryon1205 In town/urban areas high beams don't have much utility. In rural areas, it really can help avoid tagging kamikaze deer waiting to leap out and trash your truck. Naturally you'll want to switch to low if oncoming traffic appears before you.

Trust me, they know what they're doing. They just don't care.

Same here Tim, also in Dallas (up near Plano) and wish there were a shop with a local Ray. Or more likely, there is at least one, but finding it (or them) is proving... challenging.

Well, it’s just a 22 hr, 1160 mile drive to Sarasota and then back. You’re in and out in no time 😂

@@oswaldpeter Cool! My Check Engine light hasn't been on THAT long, so I'm sure it'll last for the drive, so Ray can see it for himself. Oh, and work on crusting up the battery terminals. I don't want to miss out on the complimentary clean, shine and tightening!

Look up Jeff at Joe's Auto Repair in Garland. He's freaking awesome. Spends more on diagnostic equipment than most dealers. LOVE THE GUY!

Ray and Eric O are thee best mechanics on RU-vid in my opinion

Hooters gto's 442 hemmings man knows where the days I remember them well lots of fun wish I had them old cars have a good night

Had a '68 Cougar with it mounted above the fender well, easy to arc with a screwdriver when the solenoid gave out. Sure miss those days...except for adjusting the points.

I think you still can, but if you pull the starter, you should strip it down and clean the inside of the starter and change the brushes at the same time. You get dust build up from the brushes as they wear down overtime that can cause other issues later, because the components tend to get heavily coated with the stuff. Last one I did was about 6 years ago and it’s still going. Also did someone else’s near the same time because they were looking to get rid of the car because of it and that is still going also. But if it is being done in a workshop though as per se, it’s probably more cost effective to get it exchanged with a refurbished or new starter motor to offset the labor costs + you get the warranty from the supplier.

@@thefireman2854 I had a screwdriver in my 81 bronco for just that reason. I was in high school and between paychecks so I had to make do! 🤣

my uncle used to tune a model A by turning crank to #1 TDC and aligning 10 penny nail rotor to wires on cap that went to #1 amazing now just replace the car

They also sold rebuild kits for alternators and starters. It had new bearings, bushings, brushes, etc. You could also buy diode trios and rectifier bridges.

They forget to dim them because they’re too busy looking at their damn phones.

With everything made of plastic on today's automobiles, it's very hard to hit ground with the other end of the wrench. He technically did not remove it first, since there was no second. However, I totally agree with you on proper procedures.

That’s a great idea. Maybe hashtag it or similar

That is my general practice too.

Same here, negative off before any real work starts.

My father was an aircraft mechanic in the RAF in England in about 1940s then he immigrated to the United States hey have a good evening and thanks for bringing back good memories

well considered, I'll add that to the mental database

I remember it was from the ground connected from your battery do you fender do you fender was loose and bouncing up and down and help me if I'm wrong but I remember when you had curly hair bye

@@michaelpressman7203 Have you figured it out yet?

How is that knowledge not a part of your driving school classes. ?

@@JohnDoe-bd5sz There are no driving school classes required. You need only pass a written test, and then a day time driving test.

@@williameldridge9382 Holy moly, that sounds pretty dangerous. In my country the minimum requirement to get a drivers license is as follows. 29 theory lessons each 45 minutes long 24 driving lessons Pass a first aid training program The 24 driving lessons are atleast 4 hours on a small closed plot, where you learn to maneuver the car, then atleast 5 hours on a closed track followed by 15 driving lessons of 1 hour, conducted in a special car, where the student is in the drivers seat, and the driving instructor sits in the front passenger seat, the driving instructor has an identical set of pedals so they can brake, or operate the clutch (Education must be conducted in a car with manual gears...I assume this will change when electric cars are more prevalent) All of the above has to take place over at timeperiod of atleast 14 days....No speedy weekend course, you need time to learn and what you learn must have time to soak in. When all of that is done, you are allowed to take a written test and then a driving test, both of which you must pass to get the drivers license.

Problem with that is all the various computers will not like being deprived of power so it might not start even if it turns over.

About 50 years ago, in California, CHP would set up vehicle inspection check points on random roads. I got a fix-it ticket for headlight adjustment. I had to go to a licensed adjustment station to get them aimed correctly. That vehicle gave me the best night vision of any I've owned. Most blinding low beams just need to be aimed properly.

@@VashthStampeede Or it might be that the car is loaded differently (all weight in the back), and they don't know how to set the light height in the car. It's a switch next to the main light switch with usually 4 positions.

@@csgergo80 American cars do not come with those switches.

@@Terror1Void That explains why the high beams were on. You can't do that in Europe, you have to put it on manually, or in the latest cars, leave it to the computer. It's very reliable in mine on auto.

The blue-headlight craze that manufacturers all seem to be onboard with.. I don't know if it's because they're LED/xeon or whatever.. seems to be attributing to that. I miss ordinary incandescent.

The good old days!

Derek's batteries are only as good as his brakes.

My stainless steel wedding ring has JUST THAT scorch mark in it for that exact reason.... Smoked it so fast that I had a 2nd degree burn all the way around my finger .... Needless to say I don't wear one now... One other reason to not wear a completely closed one is if you snatch your hand back quick for some reason and it snags, or you slip and fall and reach out to grab something and it snags, it'll deglove your finger in a hurry! At the least cut it in one spot so it'll open up and spread, but the new rubber ones are the trick if one in our industry MUST wear one!

It's always something. Like with the 90's and 2000's Grand Am's and Prix's, the water pump was underneath the engine and buried in a corner so it wasn't even accessible by going under the vehicle. You were required to remove the entire engine to access it according the repair manual. most shops would partially lift one side of the motor to access to reduce work and labor time. Add on to that fact that they were notorious for failing and it was a nightmare. Each vehicle has to give up something for the design to work, there's always gonna be one part that's insanely difficult to access.

Just keep watching the back-library, there's quite a few of those in there!

Getting more rare isn’t it?

I find at least 50% of people I show that to were unaware you can press the button without the pedal because the screen says "press pedal to start" and no one at the dealer ever showed them

Just as impressive is that he went and verified the failed component instead of just replacing a bunch of stuff and hoping. He's a solid mechanic, and I hope people watching pick up his good habits.

Solenoids are now $25+ :D ... I know... Have 3 OBS Fords :D

Could Camels be used as an acceptable substitution?

@@wayneessar7489 That would be correct procedure yes

@@Uncle-Duncan-Shack 😂🙏

He didn't the first time. Having done it five minutes earlier, the second time he knew the spanner could only touch the plastic box. No point disconnecting the negative lead again. It would just risk damaging it for nothing.

Lately I don't see dislikes shown. I think RU-vid stopped their display.

Some Toyotas have the starter under the intake manifold

Can't see much wrong with your system Joe. Low cost, recycles another item and systematic.

Yeah, I wouldn't have blown the freshly made dust around. I'm stupid enough already, so I'm a little paranoid about heavy metals.

Yeah, could turn one into a Leftist Liberal Dem.

@@grassroot011 Reps and libs are on opposite sides of the same downy coin.

@@nodriveknowitall702 facts

Japanese and Korean cars in general don't use them. I think it's superstition.

@@Scrubworks odd numbers are bad m'kay

@@Gruxxan I think it's specifically 13, the unlucky number. Lots of 17mm bolts on Japanese cars. No 18mm though, that's the preserve of European cars.

@@Gruxxan what about all the 17 and 19s?

Really?

Not made in Japan.

I can't argue against your opinion. I'm not a pro mechanic, but I've ended up with 2 lifts and a truck load (or two) of tools.

I was a pro mechanic and it has always been that way. While working with a lift is a whole lot easier. I like others have been managing with Jack's and ramps for years. You still need a lot of tools though, but not having power tools is slower.

I don't think you need a lift for most jobs (maybe none) but having a good tool collection including power tools makes all the difference. The key is to be safe, know how to diagnose your car, and have a service/repair manual if you're not sure what to do. Of course, if you have power tools and a lift the better but not necessary. You should try getting a OBDII scanner and learn to work with computer codes to troubleshoot your car.

@@MrSupernova111 I don't work professionally anymore so no need for power tools. Power tools only speed up the process nothing more and in the wrong hands will strip over tighten and snap bolts. Better to use a torque rench and hand tools.

@@thewizzard3150 . I'm not proposing to tighten fasteners with power tools but some power tools today come with auto stop feature when the fastener reaches certain torque. The idea of using a power tool is to make the job easier on the person and possibly prevent injury due to overexertion. In fact, the one thing I dislike about this channel is that the guy doesn't use torque wrenches which is a disgrace to his profession regardless of how much experience he has. His gut isn't an accurate measure of torque.

actually dealers and manufactures want you to replace the whole car. BTW had a recall done at dealer I'll be taking them to court worst experience ever.

Good info. Thx

Best too just change the whole unit why’ll you are there right

Usually what actually fails in them is the 1/2 inch square copper contact plates from arcing during use. The parts themselves that fail CAN be cleaned by a back yard mech with patience and time, but the smart thing is to replace the whole unit as you can't buy just the solenoid. Unless it's an OBS Ford with a fender mounted solenoid that is....

As a DIYer, I've replaced the starter contacts on these Denso starters on several of my Toyotas over the years. Not really on option for a shop due to time and warranty issues, but a great solution for DIY.

Ahh yes, the 'driving with DRLs on' idiots. There's never a cop around when you need one, and if all they did was stop vehicles with equipment malfunctions, they wouldn't get anything else done. I see an average of 5 cars driving around with either one headlight out, tail light out or brake lights that don't work.

@@jameswalker6024 In 1996 I bought a brand new Hyundai Accent (all I could afford at the time). When you dropped the e-brake, the tail lights came on by default. I have no idea why that didn't become standard practice across the industry. I'm not sure if Hyundai kept that logic going, as I haven't kept track of makes/models bombing around after dark with no tails on....

Harbor Freight ? maybe.

Does it matter? Either way, it's still a core.

I’m sure it came from the snap on truck, they sell a similar one for plumbing at Ferguson

I bought mine from Autozone, a car parts dealer in the U.S. I'm sure they're available in other car parts stores. Of course you can always order from Amazon.

note: a friend would when checking oil level, ok no one does that, would let oil from dip stick ,what is that? drop on terminals his looked new 5 years old. just saying.

He did, is was in the spray bottle

@@jhonditch4269 Lubrication and protectant is where you find it. Just look around and it will be within reach somewhere.

Dielectric grease goes around/on top of connections, keep that in mind. It does **not** conduct electricity. Can make sense if you live in a corrosive environment (sea water). I never use it and my contacts looks just fine.

@@slydog4535 The "battery terminal protectant spray" is NOT dielectric grease, it's an anti corrosion chemical compound Chemical Composition/Ingredients Petroleum gases, liquefied, sweetened Naphtha, petroleum, hydrotreated light Hexane, 3-methyl- Heptane Petrolatum Hexane, 2-methyl- Hexane, 2-methyl- Methyl cyclohexane Solvent-refined heavy paraffinic distillate Xylene (mixed isomers) Ethylbenzene Hexane