@@buildshow European windows are not tested to US air and water standards as wind and water are much more extreme than Europe. Architects typically are clueless on envelope sealing and air and water tightness. Steve relies on tapes that seem positive on the application, but will eventually fail in adhesion vs stepping water control.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 They could encase it with architectural sheet metal methods, the RU-vid channel "architectural sheet metal 101" is a pretty decent resource for learning to fold. Really though the tape should last a while if not punctured, it's not exposed to UV rays, and Steve said the weather is pretty good where that house is.
This is pure holy grail of knowledge. Matt, please take a note and do NOT forget to make part 2 to show us all the details regarding sealing and overall finishing and water proofing. Thank you and Steve.
I read the entire Ryan's ru-vid.comUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
I really hope there is a part two to this. I’d love to see the process of how the exterior trim is applied and sealed to the window especially along the bottom.
In Germany all our windows open, so we can install just the frame without heavy glass. We then level the bottom on some shims, hold the sides plumb and fix the window in position with the designated full thread screws from the inside of the frame. Foam, tape and done.
I had a contractor installing these windows up here in CO . Seeing that gap between the frame and window made me do a double take 😳Knowing Matt and Steve approve of these clips, etc made me sleep better at night! 😀
Here in the UK, it’s common practice, with timber framed walls and that style of window, to wrap the membrane inside the window opening and staple it around the inner edge of wall to protect the timber window surround from any water intrusion.
That's no different than how it's framed in the USA, in this case instead of house wrap they're using ZIP sheathing which is OSB (plywood made from wood chips) that's coated with a weather barrier on it so it's integral to the sheathing. Even when wrapping to the inside that doesn't really protect the wood as you usually cut diagonally from the corners so it's always unprotected there and that's also generally where windows will leak water. The stretch tape on the bottom will adhere directly to the wood so there's no gaps where water can flow underneath it and I think they said they were going to be adding additional flashing shingled on top of the zip tape so it's way more protected than the traditional fold of house wrap stapled to the inside.
The reason why there are very little standard sized windows in Europe is that most of new windows are installed in old buildings and they don't have uniform window openings. Many buildings are over 130 years old. Additionally nearly all new windows have roll up binders built in.
Nice to hear some common sense about the importance of eave overhangs. Frustratingly, where I live in Australia, our new pending energy code is discouraging eaves and encouraging dark colored walls. You need to come down here and explain a few things to our rule makers.
I just finished my UPVC window and door installs. You can use Tilt and Turn profiles as doors. I have one for the laundry but people use them on their balcony. I chose Aluplast
I've had so many lawsuits where the no flange windows installed over wood frame has caused water intrusion. Very interesting to see a no flange system!
I live in Europe as a native Californian and it amazes me how temporary our homes in the US are vs in Europe or in fact most other countries. Europeans tell me stories of when they visited the US and being a soar using cardboard (Sheetrock) for almost everything. They also are confused by our measurements 2”x4” isn’t really that size. Lol
I wish I had this video this spring when I installed the windows in my first house build. I couldn’t find a good installation guide, and had to figure it out on my own. And as someone who isn’t a carpenter I can say that the installation is really simple once you know what you’re doing.
I really want to see the flashing detail in the outside. How do you span the gap? Do you flash directly to the window, across the foam, and on to the wood? I did some with liquid flashing this way, but I want to see you guys do it
How do you handle the outside of the window in terms of your cladding? I’m used to flanged windows where you just but your cladding up to the window. I’m trying to wrap my head around that detail.
Videos like this one feel like they are cut a bit short, e.g. the taping that was discussed at the end but not shown. Posting a follow-up video to each of these that's not a production video but hits on these details would be nice. One option in RU-vid is to publish a public video but not syndicate it out to your subscribers on the subs feed or via notifications (if you'd like to keep the "production" videos be the ones featured there), so you could then link to that longer video at the end of the "main" one.
Hey Matt, Thanks for all amazing tips and content overall. This is coming from South Florida region and here it is primarily a concrete block construction, do you have ability to show how to build airtight homes and best insulation practices for that type of construction?
Interesting, my 120 yr old house had new windows installed in 1978: they're all wood, flips open for cleaning and airing, and are relatively energy efficient as they have doble glass filled with argon gass in the vacuum. Still better than any modern US made windows?? (I live in Norway).
This is so super super helpful. In continental Europe, most windows are 'in-betweenies' without any flashing. They mainly rely on caulking to prevent water seep in between the window frame and the wall. These inevitably get some moisture or water seepage in bottom corners during windy rains. Any tips on how to prevent such seepages from bottom corners without removing the windows entirely and reinstall over tape flashing?
Essve level screw at the bottom and adjufix on the sides, for wooden frames in norway/scandinavia😅 Just remeber to wedge too, if not you are depending on the trim to keep the frame square and in place ..
Would love to find out more about the pluses and minuses of installing windows in the middle of walls vs. the outside or inside. Is there an existing video you can point me to, or is a new video forthcoming on this subject? I'm in the process of installing "European windows" on my house (I live in Europe and we don't call them that here), and since I'm trying to get my house as close to passive house standards as possible, I'd love to make sure my new windows are installed at the right depth from the exterior wall surface. Thanks in advance!
Steve is my kind of architect, blue jeans, tee shirt, and red converse. 👍 It’s a real shame we still don’t have good window manufacturers here in the US. If we had the courage and knowledge to change our standards to higher performance products like these windows I’ve got to believe the price point would come down for better products like this. We could save enough energy to fly John Kerry to DeVoss.
Agreed, everyone is so dam keen on getting Passive Houses and such built - just imagine if we made the 1.3 million homes built in America just 20%or 25% better.....
It would really be nice to see a follow-up video showing the sealing and finishing around the edges (I know others have asked for that). Based on this video indicating that the windows will be flush with the exterior sheathing, I cannot see how they can be sealed and finished nicely.
Aluminum frame and triple glazed glass and pretty big window , i bet that was heavy I did work with windows in Europe , but always installed it in a brick walls and really thick ones but with these wooden frame houses it looks harder just becose of the water isolation. in here the biggiest pain was always a older house that had like these double windows and really thick walls , so you cut into the huge wooden frame of the window then use crowbar to break it out in the end the result is very nice becose you have that huge inside parapet that you can use for flowers or even sit there and talk with neibour if you are at ground level :D
Maybe ok for use in contemporary homes where the fenestration doesn't matter so much, but really large expanses of glass doesn't work well with traditional architecture.
Just because on that example they use modern style windows, doesn‘t mean you don‘t get those in traditional style. E.g. you can order them with lattice, integrated or added on top of the glas. You get also wood windows with triple glas - cheaper and with better insulation values then the on in the video.
Great video as usual. I remember you used some two pane and triple pane windows in your own house based on location. What is the typical amount of time you spend with your clients discussing windows. Loved the tip on taping the inside metal brackets. With any luck my builder will have that quality of detail when I build in 2025 unless you move to OH and will gladly hire you.
Especially the shutter blinds, those are absolutely awesome. Even if I have to install them myself going to have those. I think I read U.S. doesnt use them because of fire and EU uses a lot more cement than our wood frames. Going to Denver just to look at some I think the store sells.
@@wagonwheeldc As a German i think it is worth it. the different mounting methods, the positiv and negativ impact on insulation, fire saftey, automation,... I think there is a lot to talk about. But it might not be easy for an American in America to get someone to talk about all of this.
Great video, I'll be installing these windows for the first time very soon. Wish I could get that Zip tape, I'm in Argentina and the best I can do is gaffer tape :(
I’m doing a similar install with flangeless windows, but I’m recessing them so the frames will be flush with my interior drywall. My installer is recommending stainless steel sill pans on all 20+ windows which seems like overkill to me and very costly. The windows sit on the back dam and I’ll slope the sills in front just like Steve said he was going to do. I also have large eaves ranging from 2’ to 5’. Should I overrule the window guy?
You made a comment about tape on the inside. What would you suggest or what have you used. As a note love your channel. Thank you both of you. I have just got through installing my. EAS windows and doors. I've got it covered outside, but I did not think about the inside.
As a European with a background in construction I love this channel for two main resons: 1. Seeing Matt and his colleagues nerd out about European style windows and insulation, both of which are the standard for decades around here (Germany). 2. Learning new things about American style wood construction and how to proof it against the elements. Here we mostly build with brick and mortar or concrete elements which has it advantages but also a lot things that can go wrong if done incorrectly. But wood construction seems to be on the rise here as well in recent years, even if it's not US style most of the times.
The windows used in the US (even the high end ones) are like something from the 1800's in comparison to the European tilt turn windows. They are pricey but you get what you pay for. I have used several US made brands including Anderson (horrible) and Hurd and Pella (much better) but even the Hurd and Pella is not even in the same league as the European windows. I am now changing 8 windows and will change the rest as $$ allows
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Agreed. One of my coworkers got quotes for triple pane all wood windows from Fenstur Windows and they were amazingly affordable. They were cost competitive to American windows and cheaper in some cases. All for a much better window. I really don't see a reason to use American style windows anymore.
@@BenWolkWeiss Fenstur are Canadian though. Although they are of great quality they are still 15-20% more expensive than equivalent or even slightly better European made from Italy or Spain. In Italy and Spain, and I would add central Europe, they produce some of the best wood & alu clad windows in the world. Also Fenstur at the moment has a very long lead time of over 6 months. From Europe you get wood and aluminum at 3 months lead time and ePVC in less than 8 weeks.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I second that. I normally get quotes for ePVC, Alu and Wood Alu Clad, with shipping included which are 20% less expensive than domestic windows.
Nice! But how would you have finished the outside if you weren't doing a "barrier" method? Three sided tap with none at the bottom and backeerod with caulk on the inside?
Would be interesting to see how a pocket install is detailed on the outside. These are some of the hardest things to get right. Is there a video you did or recommend?
Some US window makers have adopted those European style models. So you can get American made "European" windows. They only import the mechanical components, frame and glass are US made. And yes it is very DIY friendly.
1:03 - Are you sure in Europe if you said, "I want a window that's four feet, three and one eighth" they wouldn't just sneer at you and tell you to learn the metric system? 🙃
I actually like the idea of flangless windows as it allows a more ideal depth setting for different rain screen and sheathing options. I'm a fan of the liquid flash VS the tapes because I just have doubts about the adhesive of the tapes lasting 30 or 40 years do it lifts up. On the other hand, who knows if the liquid stuff won't stiffen and crack in the same time? Hard to engineer for multi-generational like Matt is supporting.
Did he say glass is cheap but frames are expensive? I've always been told if I wanted a big opening it's cheaper if it was broken up with multiple smaller windows which would make it have many more frames.
In America you have of the shelf windows in standard sizes. That means 3 of those standard sized windows are cheaper then the custom build one. That was also explained in the video. In Europe manufacturing is more aligned for custom sized (many old houses and hard to resize the window size) basically there is no standard size for windows. Now cost of production between most common size windows and custom size is not different. only cost of material. As long as you stay below the maximum size for a glass pane, glass is cheap. if you want a 20 foot by 10 foot pane it will become VERY expensive. and the frame is more complex meaning more expensive to produce. Meaning what you remember is true for America, not for Europe.
I live in a desert environment. My current house is solid brick construction, i.e., no wood or cinder blocks and unfortunately no insulation. Exterior stucco is applied directly to the bricks and interior plaster is applied onto a leveling layer of cement. There are no exterior moldings just stucco returns; likewise, there are no interior moldings, just plaster returns. The windows are mounted in the middle of the wall cavity. I have Anderson 100 windows with weep holes at the bottom and windows are caulked on all 4 sides. I am considering European style windows in a similarly constructed house that I am remodeling (including 2" of exterior insulation). Your video was very enlightening, but I was confused by the barrier system that you explained. It seemed like you were doing a combination of water management and barrier systems since you were setting the window on a raised cavity to allow water to escape under the window. For my type of construction, is it advisable to still use a permeable perimeter seal on both the interior and exterior if it is partially or completely covered with the stucco and plaster returns?
Anybody know what US windows have the hangers option? I can't even find them for sale?? I am now trying to find any other window that can use these hangers because I am doing a replacement into brick. Help please.
Matt, love the video! We’re in the middle of selecting windows and sliders for our custom build, how do these compare in price with say an aluminum/wood clad product?
First time I seen those windows were in 2012 when I visited Switzerland. I wish I had in on my house when I first saw it. Happy to see Matt introducing these to Americans.
@buildshow Would there be a benefit to securing the mounting clips facing the outside of the window frame for a mid-frame install? If I build using ICF @FoxBlocks 8" core, I'll have a 14" deep frame (with exterior furring).
How do you flash this window with vertical metal siding? Just normal J-Channels on top and sides, wider flashing under the window? This window is usually installed recessed about 10cm/4inches with wooden cladding where im from.
Do you guys have to install fire cavity closers or barriers around windows and between floors? The UK has gone crazy with this any cavity needs fire closets so even the air space behind cladding/sidings is considered a cavity so you have the confusing state where you have to ventilate the space to prevent condensation but also prevent fire spread! What are you thoughts on it?
We have similar requirements in the US, it's typically known as "fire blocking" here. It's required between floors and no more than 10 feet vertically within certain wall types. A lot of times this blocking serves a dual purpose as both shear/fire blocking and is installed at 8ft on center to allow for edge nailing of the sheathing. Hope this answers your question!
I am curious, why does the tape go over the vertical rain screen furring strips on the side of the rough opening? I would have assumed you would install the furring strips after with the zip being the WRB. Is the window flush with the furring strips or the sheathing?
in the minute 16:01 you see the aluminium frame composed of the outer frame and the inner frame(of closest to the glass. We have these type of windows , we have draught entering the house through this gap. terrible thing anyone got an idea about how to solve it?
