never seen any proper carpenter while i have been working as a chippy for 4 years now. in victoria, unfortunately i didn't really have a good chance to learn proper way. thank you for the video, gives me right way to build a house with professionalism.
hi james, thanks for your knowledge base.. im installing a gjames louvered aluminium 050 series window into an external bathroom wall. its not in the shower enclosure but right next to the shower curtain.. should i remove the window reveal ? (which is primed pine). different posts say yes, some say waterproof over reveal then tile. On my window i only have a 25 mm aluminium return on the window frame then the pvc handle so the tiles would be very close to the handle. I can understand removing reveal if its mdf or other board. if i remove the reveal ill have more wiggle room for tiles. Thanks for any advice.
I've seen some building sites that suggest not to cut and fold the sarking back in and around the window framing due to possible water movement down the face of the wall membrance then along the sarking attached to the window frame. Do you have any comment or is there a specific benefit in folding in the sarking that outweighs any possible moisture movement down the face as described.
What if you have put up the new cladding first and are taking the old windows out for new afterwards, does it matter? How would you get the flashing in?
Excellent video. I have spent 2 hours looking at annoying videos that gloss over the details, this is the only one that gives all necessary detail and explanations.
Hey mate, thanks for watching! Yeah I used the stapler on a few other windows in the window episode of 'The Dirt Road Home', probably should have shown it here as well. BTW my wife is Dutch 😁👍
Thanks for the video, great detail! Question: I'm putting some fixed pane windows into a space between two large concrete pillars (300x300). I plan to frame out underneath the windows and above (Sill and Lintel) but I don't have enough space for any studs either side of the window (about 10mm of space only). Would it be fine to use some masonry screws to attach the reveal into the concrete pillars? The windows I'm using are 1200h x 2100w fixed pane Trend windows with 100mm reveals.
@@7yle Yes that would work just make sure you can flash or seal against the concrete. 40*40 aluminum angle on the exterior frame with a polyurethane sealer will help. I'll see if I can find an example for you.
I just realised why my new window fills up with water when it rains the builder didn’t flash around the windows 🤔 I’ll have to get my new builder to reinstall them……not happy.
Thanks for the great video. I have a question about steel frame and windows without a reveal do you screw the flashing just beyond where the window frames will meet the steel frame it is going into a shed home with steel frame and timber frame is only for the wall cladding on the inside appreciate any help thanks
Hi James What window brand/profile have you used for the bathroom and can you use that in the rest of the house if you don't plan to have timber reveals and architraves. Plan to square set the gyprock around the timber and everywhere. Thanks
Great video, whats with the everythink? Hate it when ppl say that, just like the Americans saying soder instead of solder hahahha. in saying that ill still watch your videos and give then the thumbs up.
Do you screw down your sill reveal also? Some installers do, some dont and just fix into jams as you have done. What is your reasoning for fixing the sill or not, there doesn't seem to be any clear info on this that I can find ? Also thanks very much for your channel and videos, they are awesome and have helped me out heaps and have enjoyed watching your build. Cheers.
Hey mate, I don't screw or nail the sill, generally the timber reveals will all be pinned back with the architraves to the studs during the fit off stages.
G'day James , can i ask the frame for the bathroom window, is that built for a very snug fit ? Or with the same gap as the first window ? Complete Beginner here . Thank you
Hi Chris, it can be a little tighter as the outside flanges need to be fixed into the studs. Main thing is to ensure 10mm clearance on the head to allow for deflection in any structural timber above the window. Hope that helps.
@@OurBuild I purchased aluminium windows with reveals but they only attached flashing to the bottom of the window. Do I need to remove the staples between the window and the reveal, and place the snakeskin in between or can I attach it to the aluminium frame directly? Thank you 😊
@@stephanekhaida7951 It works well if you place it straight over the aluminium. no need to nail or staple it into the window frame, it can be just nailed on the wall framing beside the windows.
I'd recommend creating a 'sub sill' under the new window reveal before you install it. You can use a roll of light weight aluminum flashing which is sold in most hardware stores next to the plastic rolls. Make sure it is wider than the timber reveal so it can fold up behind the archives on the inside and down over the brick work on the outside. For the sides you can silicone and pop rivet a 20mm x 20mm aluminum angle against the window and bricks. Good luck with it 👍
It was the point about where the edge of the reveal should sit that of most importance to me. Doing everything on your own affects the method you use. So now I can use that as a standard.
Hey mate, nice video! I have 3 questions. Do you have to specify the thickness of your cladding when you order the windows so they make them to suit? Is the process the same when using colourbond cladding? And I imagine the process for doors is the same but how is the bottom of the door sealed where it meets the concrete slab? Thanks mate.
Hey James I noticed you don’t have any screws in top and bottom reveals I have a 1800 x 600 window so only pack bottom reveal and and extra screws for the length is this correct I see some videos they put screws in bottom and top 🤔
Hey thanks for the great video. Can I ask if removing aluminium window to replace the reveals, which are warped and cracked is a DIY job or should I call in a professional. I'm mostly concerned with the flashings - brick cladding. Cheers
Thanks George. It would really depend on how confident you are with DIY, generally speaking windows in brick are quite easy to remove. Usually the sill bricks have a flashing that is attached to the bottom of the window, you would need to cut this to remove the window, then it would be a mater of making sure the new window was re flashed at the base when installed.
Great explanation thank you. My only objection is you install flashing on top of wall Sarking for top of bathroom window which I suppose it should go underneath of sarking ! Isn’t this right?
Not really because it's high up under a protected eave, and its really a seal between the weather boards and the edge of the window. If it was an exposed wall with a meter or so above it then yes under for added protection from driving rain.
Hi James. Great video! Very helpful. A couple of questions, please: 1. Is the external sarking ever fixed to the studwork, or is it just left loose? 2. I'm planning to remove one of these windows and build in the opening, and am interested in whether the window should be pulled out from the outside or should it be removed from the inside? The external cladding is fibre cement sheeting, and I was hoping to not remove or damage the existing cladding. 3. Are you planning a video on how to remove one of these windows from an existing house?
How come you don't tape the flashings? Have seen a lot of vids where the builder goes nuts with taping and waterproofing. Why don't we do that here in Aust?
Would depend on the wrap, and type of window/ exterior finish. Ideally if flashed correctly water would not penetrate to the frame, but if you wanted extra peace of mind then you could flash the sill timber as well.
Hey mate I reckon a 600, 1200 and 1800mm are great lengths for windows and doors. You can pick up 2400 or 2700 aluminum straight edges that you can strap a level to for framing if you need longer.
Great vid. Could you use a pair of wooden wedges similar to doing a door jamb or is it better to use those flat plastic packers? I'm guessing it's better with those flat plastic packers. Just thought I'd ask. Cheers for the tips. Keep them coming 👍
Thank you, your right I didn't mention the head, at the 4 min mark I discuss the frame being 10mm wider around each side of the window, but I should have been more specific at the head as you don't want any beam deflection to impact your window. Thanks for pointing that out 👍
That’s great that you explained the difference between a window with and without a timber reveal I’m a first year apprentice and I’m renovating my parents place and have been looking for a video to explain this, thanks
