Thank you so much for posting this video. I was able to change out the belt in about 30 min. I did not unbolt the engine however. I remove the bolt in the end of the engine shaft and the whole assembly easily slid off the shaft for easy belt removal and installation. I did remove the mower deck for easier access to the underside of the tractor. Thanks again, excellent video!
Sometime the pulleys are froze on there. If you remove the bolts you can slide the engine around and install the belt. Then slide the motor back and install the bolts. My pulley was stuck on tight
I just pulled the crankshaft pulley on my 2012 Cub Cadet LTX 1042KW, I used a Husky Strap Wrench to hold the pulley and a ½" IR Pneumatic Impact gun with a 16mm impact standard 6pt. socket, it was piece of cake. The outer and inner pulleys dropped out easy and installed easy with the same set-up. That Husky 1" - 8" strap wrench purchased at Home Depot has a life-time gurantee and fit the pulley perfect and held it tight so as I reinstalled the pulleys to the crank shaft, the Kawasaki Crankshaft didn't rotate as I tighened up the 16mm bolt.
I'm impressed you got that completed without removing the deck! This is also the first time I've seen anyone unbolting the engine on video to slide it around to make room. Great video. You have a new sub!
I'm glad to see other people using a bungee cord to hold the blade engagement lever from popping out, I thought I was the only one with that problem. Good video thanks for your effort, and by the way, for the viewers, the bungee cord can be seen during his test drive at the end.
I have jack stands but it's good to know that paint cans will work in a pinch. Got the belt half off then I saw those frickin' tabs on the engine mount. I was about to grind them off when I decided to consult the University of RU-vid. Removing the engine bolts is probably the best bet. I wouldn't want to deal with wheel pullers and woodruff keys and all that. Thanks so much for the help and by the way- Great tunes!
I guess yours is not a hydrostatic cub cadet 42 inch deck mine is a 2016 kohler 22 hp hydrostatic V twin I also found I had a oil like in the OHV covers so had to use gasket sealer and remove them and reseal them . Odd they do not make a cork gasket for them but gasket sealler worked . So looks much different in the front and has a fan in the back . I just replaced the deck belt , spindles and pulleys and drive belt looked ok but guess not it shredded 2 months later I could have caught a stick up in th belt that destroyed it . I have just over 3 acres and have always owned 2 mowers sold my troy built and bought a 46 inch hydrostatic V twin cub cadet this year . Troy built only had 2 deck wheels and my whole front yard is a hill so back to 4 deck wheels . I love you tube shows me how to work on my mowers since here we only have 2 mower repair shops and they charge 94 dollars per hour and 60 dollars to pick up mower and bring it back , SUCKS SOMETIMES TO LIVE IN VIRGINIA HILLS , my choice but comes with a learning curve
I just now got finished doing all 3 belts. I was able to do it without taking the engine loose but i did take the deck out from underneath and also removed the battery like you showed. ... made things alot easier. I wonder if removing the engine bolts would've been better 🤔. ... hopefully I won't have to do this again anytime soon. Thank you for your video
Haha the 2 pulleys are connected by the shaft. (1 piece) heat the bolt with a torch to melt the red locktite remove the bolt and the 2 pulleys fall free. Elapsed time 10 minutes.
@@Cure_E_Osity 20-30 seconds or so, There's flat spots on the shaft between the 2 pulleys that you can fit a pipe or Ford wrench on to keep the motor from spinning. then just crank on the bolt with a breaker bar and off it comes. If you have a tap and die set, clean the bolt and receiver threads before reassembly. If not a green pad/wire brush to the bolt threads will suffice. Upon reassemble add "BLUE" Loctite to the threads and crank it down supa tight. While you're underneath, check the drive belt tensioner pulley spring. It has a tendency to break on one end. I've replaced it twice in 6 years.
@@kenbred46 thanks man, it went off without a hitch. A task that would have been difficult without the support of the RU-vid community but a very serviceable and reliable machine!
@@kingdeadlego may be. My 2 are 2009 models. They have a tendency to bust all apart if the drive belt breaks. It’s only plastic but does help The hydro cool
With the belt size you have to watch because there’s two different variants of the mower and they both use different size belts. I would say to Look up your belt via your serial number on an online parts dealer and then take the part number of the belt to cross reference it to another belt that is available to you
so much for design . cub cadet replacement for drive and deck belts are overly intense . guess it made that way for the dealers sake....................
I found the same problem. The agent finally transferred me to an actual tech. He knew what I was talking about. He looked it up and told me they had 2 sizes that year and model. It went by serial number. Then I discovered why. The 2 pulleys ( stable and idler) had two different size pulleys. I ordered the other size and the problem is gone.
IMHO, this video shows the difficulty of changing the belt and a little bit of how to do the job. Used pronouns way too often and didn't adequately point out and name the pulleys being moved and didn't show well enough the removal of the belt nor the installation of the belt.
