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Couple months ago i had the same issue with a different bike, turn out that the guy had change his points and he forgot a tiny plastic washer between the wire from the points to the condensor. The bike come to me with also no spark
Hey! You basically found the problem without even knowing it.. The one section of the stator where the copper windings go around the core that bolts to the stator plate is likely your problem.. The copper windings likely have shorted to the core that bolts to the stator plate.. You can test this by removing that section from the stator plate and test with you meter. Ground one lead of your meter to the core and the other lead to the wire that connects to the copper windings.. If you get a beep or a short with that test then you know that the copper windings have shorted to the core.. Hopefully that makes sense.. Theres two stator sections.. One is for charging and one is for ignition.. The one closer to the front of the bike as your facing it is for ignition.. One towards the back is for charging.. You can also do a resistance test and see what you get.. But my bet is the the windings have shorted to the core.. Good luck! You vids have come along ways.. Nice job!
Is this a common failure? I would have never thought of that. Could you unwind it and put a new insulator on it and rewind it? If parts are unavailable or just for testing purposes?
When you replaced the coil and kicking it over and not getting a spark, I was thinking it has to be the ground. Well done for checking and spotting the problem. Electrics are difficult on vehicles and hard to diagnose. I know it lowers your belief in the bike, but hang on in there and you will have a good bike at the end.
You're a machine man. Nothing like wrenching on a machine in the freezing. Everything hurts way more when you bang your hand on something. This is dedication!
Looks like the whole of the points are grounding out.Should be some form of insulating plastic washer/cap where the single wire connects to the points.I would also replace the points and condenser .
You are nearly there. Don't give up on it! The wire going around the core have some very thin insulator, otherwise you end up with is a coil with just one turn of wire. Enameled wire if I recall correctly. My best bet is that the insulator is worn down, and shorting the circuit. I only have experience in the area from brushless motors. The concept is the same, only in reverse. Rewiring brushless motors is not hard, it shouldn't be any different here. Certainly saves a lot of money and is a nice skill to have. Another concern I had watching this, is how wet it's inside the flywheel area.
We work on old hit&mis motors and old Maytag motors and on most of them you have to isolate the points and stator from the frame we use gaskit material and small neopreme washers or in cases have used faucet washers just anything to isolate them from the frame
You could be nearly there with solving the issue. Check the windings on the source coil are not shorting to earth (ground). Also points have small fibre insulation that the moving part of the points run on. If these wear they can short. You didn't need to take the top end off to pull the fly wheel. Impact gun to remove the nut and stop the fly wheel from moving using a spanner on the puller. Good luck.
Instead of removing the jug and bracing the connecting rod you can pop out the plug and jam rope or paracord down inside. It will stop the piston without damage.
I used to push rope in the cylinder through the spark plug hole to stop the piston keep the piston above the ports it worked fine. Saves taken off the head. 👍🦦
Heres tip to remove next fly wheel without removing head. 3 word visegrip chain wrench. Would lock around fly wheel so can put up against peg to hold it. I've done it lots of times.
@Ram The Man Or you could just do it anyway. It’s not like building officials are hiding in the bushes. You could even build a “mobile” wood stove that you partially disassemble and store away when not in use. Have the chimney go through a window or doorway. Just make sure the combustibles are stored outside.
You have thought me so many things about working on machines that I thought I’d never need but now that I’m starting to work on my own I need most of what you explain. And I also enjoy learning which I didn’t even know was possible.
this bike was my first true love had a 77, i hope you can restore that old girl she could be a museum piece, just saying but when i was a kid i had to replace the points all the time sanding them would prolong but not for long i remember every time i went mudding with it i would have this problem also be sure they are set the correct distance apart upon opening good luck buddy fingers crossed for ya
Try taking the points off the stator and testing them with your meter. As someone else said the hinged part should be isolated from the fixed part. So one led to the body and the other to the wire points open you should have no continuity and if you do the nylon isolater must be buggered. 👍 Keep going bud wish I had your enthusiasm to get out and do some of my own projects!
Sometimes you just have to walk away from it for awhile. Good job. I would have blew an o ring after the new coil didn't work, filled the tank with tanerite, and sent it to the moon. Great patience man. God bless
Hey bud, they sell a Mr. Heater for a propane tank. Works great with a fan behind it. We got a two face heater and it heats up our 2 car garage wonderful. Very well worth the investment
The points are self isolating if you remove wire from points and check the points without anything hooked up if it don't disconnect it the shaft on the points shorting
I ran into the same problem on a boat motor with points. The condenser wire was grounding out to the body of the distributor. Who ever replaced the points and condenser pinched the wire shorting out both of them. So I replaced with new points and condenser and the boat fired right up.
I had a similar situation where the previous owner totally submerged the vehicle while it was running. Energy electrical component was shorted out. Sometimes you just have to throw a bunch of parts at it. Replace the points and coil and stater. Good luck bro. Love your content.
Check world of powersports the diagram shows a cdi hooked in the main wiring harness. They also sell new lead wires for the stator. Just a thought is all. The diagrams are very easy to read there. Hope that helps.
Hmm, I am having the same problem. Thanks to your hard work I now have an understanding of where to begin. The pulley puller is now my challenge. Charles
If your condenser is shorted out, you would have constant continuity. Disconnect the condenser and see if the problem goes away and then replace it if it does.
As others have posted it appears the ignition stator coil is "shorting" to ground, have you considered maybe the stator coils are "wet" within the windings which is causing the problem (from your earlier vids you suspected the generator had been full of water) which you might be able to solve by taking the stator assembly off and putting in a low temp. oven (I wouldn't go hotter than 50 C° for fear of melting insulation) for a few hours to drive any moisture from the stator assembly and try that as a cheap way of maybe solving the problem.
I had this exact same problem a couple years ago on a dt 100 and I was working on it for whole year trying to figure out the problem, I bought new points and a new coil. It turned out that my brand new coil that I bought was bad.
One thing you can try- put your voltage tester in the coil where the spark plug plugs in and see if you get a reading when you kick it over. I believe it should read dc volts not ac but im not 100% sure
Check the voltage on the coil.. i had a 91 blaster and i was getting no spark even though I went through 3 coils. Then I bought a good coil that went with the specs and it got spark
Yeah man, had exactly the same issue on my ts 400, resoldered all the wires, no spark, new coil no spark, the cap was faulty, replaced that no spark, the plug was also faulty, replaced that no spark, then just replaced the lead wires completely resoldered again, then got spark. Persistence bro good luck!
It sounds like your kill switch is on. That switch kills it at the coil. That’s what the ground wire is for on the coil to shut the motor down. When kill switch is open it shuts off motor. When it’s closed it runs. Try a jumping wire in that connector. Then check spark?
Your points are grounded where they pivot thats what is grounding the whole system pull them apart at the pivot and youll find the broken worn peace of astic replace the points
I know this is an older video, but what I do what I need to stop the flywheel from turning I feed a length of a rope through the spark plug hole, which blocks the piston from coming up. When you’re done, simply pull the rope back out, usually easier than taking the whole cylinder off.
you could take the spark plug out and put some rope down the hole to stop the engine from turning to get the flywheel nut loose would save the time taking the top end apart
@@RealDadOfAmerica i left mustie1 a message on his last video to see if he remembers. I know it was a old pull start he was working on but cant remember which one.
You HAD spark at the coil, i would think THATS where ur problem is..try putting rubber washers (isolators) n see what happens..also- get a MANUAL !!! LOL.. u cant lose when u have a manual ! 😃👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
When you were turning the engine with the drill @10:24 it did make a nice healthy blue spark...don't knoiw how you had it configured to do that but it did spark for a couple turns...
I would change the mag coil if you can use the lighting coil as a mag coil new points and condenser any points I’ve seen have some sort of isolator between case attachment and point itself
Remove the copper winding that runs lights and wiring off stator don’t disconnect wires but let it hang outside flywheel on floor so it can’t earth leave winding for ignition and points run the black wire from stator directly to coil do not use the wiring harness leave the harness unplugged if you still don’t get spark replace points and condenser check engine bolts haven’t corroded that bad causing bad grounding between the engine and frame
You could use a rope turn the flywheel till piston in down put the rope down sparkplug hole till you get a good amount of rope in there then put your tool on flywheel bolt when it lose turn flywheel back and pull your rope out
Joe I've been watching your channel since day 1,love the content and appreciate the effort in making each one,but please take the advice of a fan and fellow bike guy,plz just go to a pawn shop and invest in a kerosene shop heater and use the work bench.you will get sick doing things in the freezer. Also working in the cold burns you out on this stuff,because things don't work as well at negative 30.you are young and your knees and back feel fine now but its kinda like not running a engine without oil ,its doing damage breh
Are the cardboard washers intact the stator and ponts should have these little cardboard or fiberglass washers if they are bad or gone you will ground out
I would be checking that pile of wires and all of the wires that run next to the frame and also check the junction box wires by the air box, there has to be a wire touching the frame somewhere. I would also change the condenser and change the coil again.
if u just want to fire it up u can rig a 12v battery and a car or truck coil up to it and it will have spark as long as the points open and close i have done this meny times, also check the isolator shims
Take the g clip off of the movable arm of the contact points and check for wear where the insulation is. Check for anything that might be conducting electricity to the contact where it's not supposed to or just replace the points. Electrolytic condensers/capacitors do go bad even when sitting on shelves. Shelf life is usually about 20 years. The electrolyte dries up and the caps short out.
After you get this bike figured out, it would be really cool to watch you do a build series on a 1998 350 warrior and put a 2005 350 raptor engine in it, all you gotta do is get a stator from a warrior engine. You can find a 98 or so warrior with no engine for really cheap, it would be cool to see you build one. I miss my 98 Warrior, I wish I wouldn't have ever got rid of it a long time ago but I had to cause I was in a bad car wreck and I had to sell it to pay bills. But it's all good lol, gotta do what I gotta do I guess lol. Hope you are havin a great and blessed day. Hope you are stayin warm up there. It's cold here in northern Indiana.
Bubba Louie always use a new spark plug when checking for spark how do you know that old plug is any good could be a bad plug it's just a good practice to always use a new plug
