It's forbidden cotton candy time! The insulation goes in this episode and I'm ready to start lining the wall with drywall Crankiepad Renovation Vlog: Episode 125 #homerenovation #newzealand #homeimprovement #building
It used to be a tradition in the USA. I haven’t seen it for a long time now. No more drinking on the job and they try to keep it professional. I love opening old walls and finding 50-100 year old beer bottles or beer cans. I save them.
We would put a coin, usually a quarter, from the same year (or as close as possible) that the work was done in the wall or wherever the work was being done.
@@krismine99 I wear pants to protect my legs. I wonder how these guys aren't one solid cut/abrasion from upper thigh down. I get cut scraped and skinned every week with pants on lol
If the black paper is plain old tar paper, it's not a vapor "barrier", it's a vapor-permeable water barrier. Which is the correct thing to install. You really really don't want a vapor barrier on the cold side of an exterior wall. But it looks like you did it right.
@@MrBeard-ig5zc Condensation does not generally occur in the insulation itself. The insulation does not hold enough energy to condense vapor in any meaningful quantity. It condenses on solid surfaces.
Comparing building insulation with the UK, the Aus standards are incredibly low and shoddy. Should be using blocks of rigid board insulation filling in those voids, that has twice the value of the fluff. Their houses are little better than garden sheds. The current "solution" is to stick a massive aircon unit in, such backward thinking...
Building paper is a moisture barrier, not vapor barrier, it's still breathable. Putting outside the insulation is correct. Vapour barrier would go inside.
I’m married to a Aussie and he lives 24/7 in shorts even when it’s snowing. So him saying it’s cold without walls while wearing shoes is the Aussiest thing ever 🐨
Ah, memories of our fixerupper of the century. When you have a boom truck slide 10' sheets of sheet rock through your bedroom window, now THAT's a good time!
Our home is 35 yrs old, amazing what little or no insulation was around the windows, when I replaced the trim around them. I used foam for around windows, amazingly how much warmer it was last winter. I will not mention the lunch bags I found in a wall.
The vapour control layer should be on the warm side of the insulation to avoid interstitial condensation. The membrane between the insulation and brick should be a breathable membrane.😂
Damn Electricians!(Sparky) I hate the little bits you leave all over my cabinets and hardwood floors! Those tiny copper wire bits are the fastest way to put a scratch into a floor. That ram board and floor protector doesn't do much.
OMG not only funny , being American,I love ur accent 😂, laughing way to hard , of course I don't clean up when I'm done,😂😂(Own that shyt), forbidden cotton candy 😂
So for the vapor barrier. If you put it outside of the insulation the condensation starts forming inside the house. I'll discount it given the fact you probably dont want to remove the whole facade to create a proper insulation barrier
This happened to me with my house too. Bought it, budgeted for the renovation, tore the first wall apart and was like “OH SHIT!! This house has no insulation!” 🤦♂️🤷♂️
My two sons once got in to the pink insulation, it made them itch for hours, that same day, my daughter fell into the cow poop. So i had two in the pink, and one in the stink!
A few decades ago we did this to an old house. Before we rewired it, we put in conduit piping. Passed our inspection really fast and lowered the cost of house ins.
My father and I always got made fun of for being sparkies that do clean our mess up. Everyone would be like "are you guys really actually sparkies? Never seen them with a broom let alone a broom dustpan and bucket to clean it up!" To me I just like to keep my workspace clean. Be it new or old construction I pretty much keep it just as clean. Drill holes for new recessed lighting cans and I collect the dust in a catcher and vacuum the rest up.
Building paper is NOT a vapour barrier. Insulating an exterior wall requires a permit for precisely the reason that knowing a little is enough to be dangerous. NZ's combination of old construction systems and the climate can result is serious moisture problems when people with half-knowledge assume they're doing the right thing. Not knowing what can go wring is the problem.
@@CrankiePantsNZThe builder doesn’t really understand it either. Too many don’t, but not many are design LBPs. That wall wasn’t built for insulation, putting it in there has blocked any chance of airflow and moisture from evaporating. The role of the building paper is to protect the framing from any external moisture in combo with ways for it to get out. But the way it’s installed is simply blocking air from the insulation and any moisture will happily wick it’s way through after finding ways through that 50+ year old brick. As mentioned, that wall, like many of the era, wasn’t designed nor constructed for it. Hopefully you never have a water problem in that wall but construction systems aren’t based on hope.
I love the dig at electricians never cleaning up their area. It's why I make it a point to keep a shop vac on hand and periodically stop to clean up my Electrician Confetti
Despite what the electrician said about his wall construction methods, that's NOT a vapour barrier, it's building paper. Applied incorrectly at that. Vapour barriers are NOT used in wall construction in New Zealand's climate. (Well, apart from water proof membranes on the exterior of sub-grade concrete walls.)
@@DiscoFang Thanks for clarifying... I was getting worried about this too. I still need to understand where the water from the inside is going to condense if its cold outside...
@@benenivel1478It should only condensate on your windows - if you’ve got single glazing. You shouldn’t have real condensation problem in NZs climate unless you have inadequate heating and ventilation. Walls themselves are designed to “breathe” (even paint is vapour permeable) so the last thing you want is to add a vapour barrier of any kind of material in your wall construction (even like polystyrene insulation sheets) unless it’s specifically designed from scratch for it. Unfortunately condensation can be a problem in lower floors of houses that aren’t heated properly but that’s a NZ house and climate thing too.
@@benenivel1478Oh and that condensation in cold houses is not going to be fixed by vapour barriers. Vapour barriers are to prevent or limit condensation in extreme climates (hot or cold) from forming within walls not inside the living space. Moisture in the wall massively affects insulation performace (worst with fibreglass) and can lead to framing rot and mould.
@@DiscoFangvapor barriers can be vitally important to controlling condensation. It all depends on the local climate. I live in Minnesota. In summer, the temperature can reach 100°F. But in Winter, it can drop to -50°F. Our structures must cope with a greater range of temperatures below freezing than they do with temperatures above freezing. We worry about frost, not condensation building up inside the wall. Frost, that builds up layer by layer and melts all at once when Spring arrives. Imagine defrosting an old freezer inside your walls. By necessity, our wall systems must dry to the outside, and the conditioned air cannot be allowed inside the wall cavity (hot air has a greater capacity to carry moisture). When there are subzero temperatures outside, the air is very dry and the moisture that can become frost can only come from the inside.
People get it wrong with paper. With insulation on the inside, what you're doing is creating a condensation point inside of the wall and trapping it inside the wall cavity.
in NZ this may be forgiving enough to do (insulate from an exterior structural brick wall) , but in the northern USA climate this is very tricky to do without damaging the brick wall.
😂my actual house--but with wood strips so thin it'd make a measuring stick jealous that the plasterboard was attached to! Sparky just chiseled out the load bearing brick to instal the switches and outlets😱💥💩🏆. fr.
We had guys put in insulation in our crawl space and they put black paper on first, then pink insulation and after a bit the crawl space stunk so I went in and pulled out all the black paper which had mold on it.
Narrator bush. I’d rather watch n see his work. Well done. 😊. You’re a distraction. A noise . To what’s happening . Great electrical n carpentry n Sheetrock work
I hope he doesn’t forget to build in a second foil against moisture on the inner side of his construction - moisture does not come only from the outside - humans produce enormous amounts of moisture from the inside!
The problem with moisture barriers is that they trap the moisture inside! Beware black mold on your wood now. I would have skipped the sheeting and just spray foamed the entire wall. Faster = cheaper and skip the mold issues. 😮
not so my dude, Moisture barriers prevent liquid water from ingressing however they allow vapor to permiate. I did miss speak in the video though and called it a vapor barrier when its indeed a moisture barrier. my bad there
was that a huge sheet of sheet rock? And thats why I will NEVER put up sheetrock again. Only shiplap, or siding for my walls as they are the size of regular boards about 1/4 - 1/2" thick x 6" - 12" wide x 8' - 16' long so you just put them in place, and nail gun in place. No mudding, no sanding, no taping, no repeating 2 or 3 times. Just paint, stain, or clear coat and install and done, and you can hang anything anywhere because you don't have to find a stud because the entire wall is a sheet of solid wood.
No it's wrong. We are talking about in winter is what u have to understand. So in winter the hot side is inside for sure so ya definitely I'd go other side.
You're thinking in summer but that's not when condensation occurs primarily. I live in a hot desert so I understand the climate is hot in summer but it's still far away from temperature regulating water so very cold in winter. Huge temp swings
@@epg423in hot humid climates however, you most certainly will get condensation in the summer as the humid outside air hits the AC chilled vapor barrier. In the desert with low humidity you will probably have more humidity inside in the winter, so you need it on the inside. So it really varies based on the humidity and temperature swings, and the vapor barriers are installed accordingly.
I can’t decide what is worse. Sparkies complaining about other sparkies, or sparkies complaining about other sparkies complaining about other sparkies. Edit: Got my conclusions. They’re all a bunch of whiners.
Did you know you don’t need a vapour barrier if you use riding insulation? I’m renovating an 80 year old house and I’m adding rigid foam board (90mm thick) giving me an R value of 4.3.
I do love the earthwool you are using. So user friendly!! I used that in my pole barn - was able to get R5 in the walls and R6 in the roof - toasty!! Lots of brands have a ‘rigid’ bat eg greenstuff and mammoth (please note I’m not sponsored nor promoting products although I should be hahaha). I used CNZinsulation via ITM. It’s harder to install than batts but much better R-values and no jiggery-pokery with building paper ;-)
Unfortunately you put your vapor barrier on the wrong side, Your vapor barrier goes towards the warm air side of the wall. The reason for the vapor barrier is to stop moisture that's warm inside the heated area of the house from penetrating into the cool insulation where it will condensate and make the insulation wet. Yes you can use a tyvek vapor barrier on the outside of the heated wall as well but if you don't put one on the inside of the wall you might as well pull that sheetrock down and start all over because you're going to have mold everywhere. If you don't believe me just look at any fiberglass insulation and wonder why the brown stuff is there ventilation is pink why do they have that brown vapor barrier because that goes towards the heated side of the house.
@@CrankiePantsNZ I'm using those 2 terms interchangably? Not sure if that's correct. I've heard in the hot southern US they put the moisture barrier on the outside. Is NZ warm more of the year than cold?
@@gedavids84 Yep we only get below zero for maybe 2 months of the year (depending on region) I believe a Moisture barrier prevents liquid; Vapor barrier also prevents humidity/condensation
@@CrankiePantsNZ yes, that appears to be the more technically correct answer. Moisture barrier is on the outside to keep the sheathing and/or framing dry. Good to know. 👍 Good luck with your work. 🙂
Why not remove the battens, do a proper moisture barrier that's interconnected add some thermal breaks and beef up that wall with some 6 inch insulation. If you are going through the trouble, then by all means really go through the trouble.
@@CrankiePantsNZ Oh we all make our mistakes don't we? Last year I started project "insulate roof", so when I ripped the ceiling out of my dormer, I found that i was leaking for years on end. Wood was completely rotted away. Paid an arm and a leg to have it replaced and proceeded to insulate the roof and tie it into the rest of the insulation, boarded, plastered and painted. Then I discovered I followed the wrong instructions with moisture barriers and I had a huge mold problem. Anyway, I had to rip everything out again and redo it all. But I'm having a lot of fun doing it. Every time I rip open a new section I find something new to be fixed or solution to be made up. Already down about 15% on my energy bill.
Surely the barrier needs to be in the warm side of the insulation so vapour cannot pass through the rockwall….You dont want warm vapour from the inside passing through the rockwall, and condensing onto the cold membrane thats against a cold wall.
