G'day it is my pleasure, I really appreciate your comment as it makes me happy to hear people are finding the videos helpful. Good luck with your photography. Cheers, Duade 👍
Illuminating. The light you have shed on this topic is leading me out of the darkness into the clear... Ok, I'll stop now... Seriously, great lecture. Going home to experiment.
Another invaluable explanation done in a simple to understand language. Thank you so much for your time and patience in explaining all this. I am becoming a much better photographer as a result of listening to your videos.
dear sir . your explantion regarding noise is awesome. you used always a simple and lucid laguge.... made us to understand better. your explantion and examples of picture u have shown are very easy to understand noise. thanks guy. wish u all success.
I watch this video recently, went out and practiced, and I was amazed. You are a great teacher, thank you so much for all your awesome video tutorials.
I used to be concerned about noisy pics, but Topaz DeNoise AI is so good, I barely think about it anymore. I shoot anywhere I want to now without worry.
Great video. You forgot to mention the sensor temperature. Heat is one of the major contributors to noise in an image. Especially in your hot climate, cameras can reach temperatures of up to 40 or 50º C. So it's probably a good idea to keep it out of direct sunlight.
, thanks for sharing, I will be honest that I have not heard of this before in wildlife photography. Do you happen to have any links to examples of the noise difference at different temperatures at the same settings or ISO? Cheers, Duade
@@Duade This guy mentions it briefly, but doesn't show comparisons: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GsnH8oWDoWA.html Wikipedia has an entry on it under 'sensor heat': en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_noise And here are some pictures: photo.stackexchange.com/questions/40027/is-it-true-that-shooting-in-live-view-mode-adds-noise-to-the-picture Hope this helps.
Thanks for that, very interesting, I wonder how it impacts the newer mirrorless cameras which get very hot with recording and leaving the EVF on. Cheers, Duade
It was good to see the snippets of information I've heard summarised into one video. With film cameras the ISO/ASA had a direct correlation to how much grain would be visible in the final image but it is not quite the same in digital cameras where the base ISO gives the best quality when correctly exposed. If you think of ISO like a volume control on a radio or Hi-Fi, turning it up increases the volume but you also start to hear background noise in quieter parts. This noise wouldn't be noticeable in the louder parts. Just like in cameras a cheap old radio will have more background noise than an expensive modern Hi-Fi system. The signal level from radio, CD etc.is like the amount of available light.
Wow, thank-you Duade, this was something special, very special. I can't recall a more thorough or descriptive tutorial/vlog on the subject of noise. Spoken at a pace that's easy to follow along and very excellent charts and photos, this goes down as an industry standard, something other vloggers should watch and learn from. Bruce.
G'day Bruce, thank you very much for your kind comment, I am glad you are finding the videos helpful. I will continue to try and make informative, helpful videos going forward. Cheers, Duade 👍
Best video I’ve seen on this topic. While we’ve picked up some of these tips through trial and error this one really drove home a bunch of great points.
Duade, you've just explained brilliantly a concern I've had with my newly acquired 5D mkiii. I am used to a 7D and have been cropping my new images too much and noticing the noise i've created. I will be sharing this video with a friend of mine who asked about this noise problem just yesterday. Thanks.
As camera technology improves, higher ISOs (such as 3200 or 6400 ISO) will display less noise/grain than older cameras at the same ISO. Those of us who come from a film and darkroom background had to contend with grainy images all the time. With digital, in lowlight you can simply pump up the ISO on the camera settings. Back in the film days, we had to load a roll of 'fast film' into the camera. There was nothing faster than 3200 ISO available without 'push processing' the film to squeeze more light-sensitivity into the film/camera.
Thanks for sharing your experience, we do take it for granted how amazing these modern cameras are in taking shots in challenging conditions. I can't even imagine how hard wildlife photography was in the film days. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade no worries. Digital technology has made the job a *_lot_* easier. It has also made it much easier to distribute images to buyers such as magazines, publishers or newspapers. Most things needed to be sent by 'snail mail' because there was simply no other method. On top of that, back in the film days, many of us working pro's (including me) did _not_ like using films faster than 50 or 64 ISO. For example, National Geographic used Kodachrome 25 (a 25 ISO film) for their daytime and outdoor work, and they used Kodachrome 64 (64 ISO) for the *_lowlight_* work!
Glad I found you. I like the ease in which you explain things and I clearly understand! Can't wait to get back outside with this better idea of "noise" reduction in my pocket! Thank you.
I thought this video wouldn’t have anything new for me. WRONG! Never occurred to that low ISO in the field, under exposed leads to high ISO after processing. Mind blown. Always expose correctly for the least amount of noise. 🙏
G'day, new cameras are much better at handling underexposed shots, but older cameras definitely struggle and show a lot more noise. But yes, trying to get the exposure right in camera is a good goal. Cheers, Duade
I really hope this channel takes off, mate. You explain things really well and the example shots you provide along with the detail of how you shot them is super helpful. Im coming from a macro background where im used to having my ISO pinned as low as possible because I shoot with flash. This is why my first bird shots are so crap, ive been afraid to jack up the ISO. Ive done some test shots after watching this and yeah, even at 12500 its passable noise. (which im impressed with for APS-C, X-T3)
G'day Ash, I also have a hangover re ISO from the early Canon bodies that couldn't really go over ISO800. I am often using lower ISO's for fear of noise when I don't really need to worry as much. Guess it is hard to break old habits. Glad to hear the Fuji is working well. Cheers, Duade
Hi, I also have Topaz Studio 2. A trick I've used several times is after denoising with DeNoise AI and not going too overboard with, I then process the image. Once I export it into a Jpeg to my desktop I will sometimes put this processed jpeg into Topaz Studio 2 and use AI Clear somewhere between 20 and 66% to slightly sharpen and clean up the little remaining noise, and then just create/export another jpeg as a finished image/final product. It is another step and takes more time but I've found it really does do a final cleaning and sharpening so to speak. I've noticed after using DeNoise and then during processing some slight noise is brought back in to the image, this final step with AI Clear in Studio 2 has been like a final touch for me and actually does help. Your images look awesome so you probably don't need to do this but for me it's become part of my work flow. Reckon we all have our own ways of doing things LOL Happy shootin'
You might be better off using tiff images when processing. When you process a jpg file each time you process it you lose some quality as it is a lossy format. Tiff is a lossless format so the quality doesn’t degrade. Once you’ve completed your processing then export to jpg.
Thanks for an in-depth look at noise and how to reduce it. I really liked when you showed how bright the picture would look (by quickly adjusting the ISO) BEFORE taking it. I constantly try to increase the ISO for sufficient picture brightness while using a high enough shutter speed to show a bird's individual feathers rather than one big wing blur. I didn't know my Canon camera is partly responsible. Many people commented on Topaz deNoise- does this work with jpeg files?
Debra, it is my pleasure, yes Topaz works on jpegs, you can download a trial for free topazlabs.com/denoise-ai-2/ref/426/ and try it for yourself. If you do purchase it be sure to use coupon code duadepaton15 for %15 off. Cheers, Duade
One thing about noise, that not many people mention or think about, is that if you make an image using ISO3200 (example) it can look really good if not cropped, but if you have to crop to almost 1:1 pixels that ISO3200 will look alot worse. So getting close is even more important when light is bad ;-)
well explained mate. As you know, I think noise is the most overrated aspect when it comes to cameras. With your steps people will be able to deal with noise much better. If you do everything else correctly (exposure, light BG), you can get away with a much bigger crop. The main struggle I have with NR software, is that it often introduces banding to the background.
Thanks mate, I agree, hopefully this video will help people understand how to reduce noise in the field. As you say, if you expose correctly with a light background, you can crop without too many issues as you are starting with a clean file. Cheers, Duade
Hi Jan, one thing I've found works really well (although it sounds counter-intuitive) is to add a tiny bit of noise back in to a background as this nearly always eliminates any banding created during the noise reduction step. I've used it in the past on some of my old images where I've not nailed the exposure with the old noisy 7D.
Richard Hall good point, I have played around with that. Or I run NR on a layer and don’t use it all. That’s still the biggest drawback with it I found
Tell me this ‘ does your camera and lense need to be synchronized ‘ or should they work in harmony straight out of the box ‘ say if your image is sharp in the viewfinder but looks soft on the viewing screen ‘ is this possible or is just me ‘ bye the way your videos are excellent really well explained keep them coming ‘ greetings from Ireland
G'day Martin, on a mirrorless system the lens will always be synchronized, however on a DSLR there are occasions where the lens will either front focus or back focus, meaning when you focus on the birds eye the actual point of focus is either in front or behind which can lead to slightly softer shots. There are tools avaialble such as lens align to help you calibrate your lens and camera. To be honest I have never had any issues so have not had to do any micro adjustments. In relation to what you see in the viewfinder, on a DSLR when you look through the viewfinder there is a mirror that reflects what the actual lens is seeing so it will always be sharp and in focus so to speak. Also when viewing images on a small LCD screen it is easy to miss noise and focus issues as the image is so small. I usually zoom into 100% and look at the eye, this will often tell you if the image is sharp. There are a number of factors which can impact image sharpness. The best test would be to find a tame bird like a duck, seagull etc and photograph it in direct sunlight an hour after the sun has come up. Use an aperture of f/9, make sure the shutter speed is over 1/500 and a max ISO of 800. Take some shots and see how they look, these conditions should lead to the sharpest photos. Good luck. Cheers, Duade
Excellent explanation, thanks. I primarily shoot birds and use a 100- 500 f/4.5-7.1 lens with a Canon R5. I don’t tend to get too close so I have to crop quite a bit. Seems like I’m going to need to buy a 1.4 extender. I also think I’m going to need to work on my stealth skills to get closer to the birds. I really appreciate the effort you put in to making this very nice video.
one more thing that accounts for noise is the type of lens you use. I have noticed that in third party lenses, the noise is significantly higher with the same settings. Please feel free to correct me if my understanding is not correct
Another great and easy to understand video for photographers that want to improve their skills. I just purchased the software (Topaz) you mentioned and it makes a huge difference to the quality of my cropped images. I will be checking out your other video you have produced on this subject. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and expertise.😀👍
Great video mate. I need to learn how to mask out the bird so when I apply nouse reduction it doesn't effect the bire. Im very new to photography and editing. I have full versions of LR and PS but have not ventured into PS yet.. its all a learning process 😂
G'day Matthew, yes PS is a bit of a beast, but once tamed it is very powerful. Masking is a little difficult to understand but is a core part of Photoshop. Good luck, Cheers, Duade 👍
matthew taylor I just started using it in Lightroom, it is definitely a useful tool and gets a lot easier once you try it 1-2 times. I also have photoshop but have not even started trying to learn that yet either
I find that by burst shooting (approx 10 frames) then I use Affinity Photo to create a stack.This greatly reduces the image noise,as the noise is random from frame to frame.You can use mean or median to see which give a better result,this method works best in low light situations where the iso can be as high as 3200.
G'day John, that is interesting, I have not heard of this technique for Wildlife. Have you had any success with birds or animals. I assume they would have to be stationary to get the desired result? Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Even if it moves a small amount you can still auto align the images,however most burst modes do capture shots at a high frame rate anyway.Try it at night with a high iso setting any image will do to practice on.
They Duade, where the Behind the scene video for this. That's always the icing on the cake...pls consider including them. This happens to be my 2nd comment to u...and many more to follow soon.... 'Love ur teaching'
Good morning Rajesh, the Outtakes is a new feature I have been doing so unfortunately was not included in this video. Thank you for your comment. Cheers, Duade
Very clear and interesting video ! Thanks. I didn't know the influence of the color of the background before. Noise is my main issue. Especialy when shooting flying birds at 2500/s. I will try Topaze if I understand how to use it with PS.
G'day Bernard, it appears to be a bigger problem with the Canon bodies I believe. You could do some testing yourself to see how it impacts your own camera. Cheers, Duade
Duade Paton I’m a micro four third shooter, Panasonic G9 and noise is a big concern with M4/3, you just gave me something else to help with the limitations of my equipment! Thank you
Cheers Duade, I'm really enjoying these vids, some great information. I use Topaz de-noise and it definitely helps with improving background noise. Ive told so many fellow photographers about it.
What a fantastically well-explained video! I know in Bird photography there is often a need to crop (even with a 600mm + 1.4x option) - do you think I would benefit from a higher megapixel camera than the 24MP I currently have to get a better quality image with less noise? Thanks you again!
It all comes down to how much light you have and how comfortable you are using slow SS. If you have a stationary bird and using a tripod you can get away with 1/80th of a second which would allow a lower ISO. But you will get a lot of soft shots and motion blur at such a slow SS. Ideally I try to keep my SS above 1/400th if I can. But in very low light you don't have a choice. Cheers, Duade
G'day Mathew, thanks for the comment, it all depends on the type and size of sensor you have. A high MP Full Frame sensor like the D800 series, R5, 5Dmk4 will allow a very large crop whilst maintaining detail and quality. However, smaller MP FF sensors don't allow quite as much. Newer sensors will often allow a bigger crop as they handle noise better. APSC sensors give you reach but if you crop too much the noise becomes an issue. If you have watched my videos you will see I often crop quite a bit and still get acceptable images. Generally, I want my images to be at least 4000px on the longest edge. Cheers, Duade
A good video Duade, well done mate. Have you tried the masking tool that's now available in Topaz DeNoise? It works very well and may save you the extra step of masking in Photoshop.
G'day mate, great to hear from you, yeah I tried the masking but found it a little inaccurate compared to photoshop. Yes I often bring back a bit of noise to the background also. Cheers, Duade 👍
Hi Duade. Another excellent tutorial. I have a question. In some of your examples you show specific light values. In one example a photo of a black swan shot at 1/1000th sec, ISO 1600 and at f7.1 gives you an LV of 11.67. How was that precise value worked out? Thanks, Martin
Hi Marts, the LV is a way to tell how much ambient light you have or had when taking the shot. You can use this calculator here www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html it does rely on a correct exposure to tell you. But essentially the higher the LV the more light hitting the sensor which often results in better photos due to lower ISO and enables higher SS. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade thanks mate. That scantips site is extremely detailed. Whoda thunkit that so much science goes into taking a shot at the correct exposure. One important thing that I learned from your vids the other day was using the histogram within the viewfinder to help set the exposure. Cheers Martin
At 3:50 you say that you would have had less noise in the image originally taken at 1/40 and ISO 3200 if you had taken it at 1/80 and ISO 6400. Is that correct? I would expect more noise at a faster shutter speed. In fact, most people think that the increased noise in that situation is coming from the higher ISO but the truth is it is coming from the faster shutter speed which results in less light being collected. The higher ISO tries to compensate from the fact that less light is being collected, but noise is mostly a result of not enough light, not too much ISO per say. At any rate, I think it might have helped if you increased your ISO to 6400 but kept the shutter speed at 1/40 in that situation. Am I wrong?
Peter, apologies if I was confusing, the 1/40 ISO3200 would have less visible noise then 1/80 ISO6400 on my Canon body. As you mentioned it is the same exposure, but one has twice as much light to expose the photo. Cheers, Duade
Hi, thanks for all the very usefull videos. Really appreciate it (especially as a beginner :-) ). Can I just ask : You talk about the light values and in the one example with f/3.5 and ss 1/50s and iso 100 you say that it gives a light value of about 9.33. Can you please explain how you get to that number ? Or where I can find this in camera ? I use Canon. Thx in advance !
Hi Frank, it is a little bit confusing but if you have the correct exposure you can put in your exposure settings into this calculator and it will tell you what the ambient light level was when you took the shot. www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html It is just handy to know that in low light you have a lot less options in terms of your SS and ISO. As an exercise if you have a noisy image, take the settings and put them into that calculator, if the number is low it tells you that it was very dark etc. Good luck, Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Thanks Duade for answering so swiftly. After I posted my question I found the calculator in the descriptions 🙂. Very usefull and all is clear now. Cheers, Frank
:-) Believe it or not I got this jacket 9 years ago from a run of the mill clothing store in a mall, it has seen better times but I like it. I think you can get similar ones from an Army disposal store. Cheers, Duade
Another nice video Duade!! One question - in your experience, does the type of telephoto lens (prime vs zoom lens from Canon vs zoom lens from third party like Sigma or Tamron) used has any direct effect on the noise?
G'day Vineeth, great question. My understanding is they do not impact the noise if the aperture was the same. The advantage of some of the primes is the lower aperture which allows in more light which in turn leads to less noise if used wide open. An f4 lens let's in a stop more light than a 5.6. so you could in theory use a 1 stop lower ISO if shooting wide open. Cheers, Duade 👍
Another fantastic video, Duade! I have a small question - does the Denoise software work as well with Lightroom as with Photoshop? I see that it's pretty expensive and it would make sense for me to buy it only if it works with Lightroom - I don't like using Photoshop!
just super advice...i made all the mistakes with my daughter's indoor soccer game at night with my R6 Mii Too high shutter (1/1000), too little zoom on the 70-200 and initially underexposed 2 stops to keep ISO down. Images looked terrible in Lightroom when I cropped and brought up the exposure. Im planning a new solution: Canon RF 100-500 with shutter speed of 500-750 and proper exposure at time of shot. Does that make sense?
Hi Pad, the 100-500 at 7.1 is quite slow if compared to the 2.8 of the 70-200. Have you tried a trial of Topaz Denoise? It works very well to remove noise. Also try some lower SS but you may get motion blur due to movement. The 100-500 is a beautiful lens but it will struggle at night. Good luck. Cheers, Duade 👍
Thanks Duade, you made me a follower, great! Did I miss something, how do you come up with the noise value given the ISO, shutter speed and aperture? Really appreciate it.
G'day Stephen, I was referring to the Light Value which can be calculated by the correct exposure settings. You can go to this link www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html Just ignore value B and input your settings into A. The bottom value will give you a LV, this tells you how much light you had available. Cheers, Duade 👍
Great video and I've now subscribed. One question. Light backgrounds like the sky cause silhouettes rather than detail without exposure compensation but is that the same as a high ISO and more noise? Any advice?
G'day Keith, thanks for the comment. You are doing the right thing by using + Exposure Comp as we should always be trying to expose the bird correctly. Camera meters tend to underexpose sky shots which often leads to dark birds which can lead to noise as you increase the exposure and shadows in post. It comes down to what SS and ISO you are comfortable using to get a well exposed bird. If noise is an issue, then you may have to either open up the aperture or decrease the SS. Cheers, Duade
G'day James, I would suggest watching these two videos of mine - Settings ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EO0WjbwzirQ.html and Exposure modes ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UW_XsMYucZ8.html. Basically, it all depends on how much light is available, that is how strong is the light when you take the photo. If you have plenty of light you might set your Shutter Speed at 1/800 of a second and an Aperture of f/8, if in Auto ISO the camera will pick the ISO such as ISO800 to give you a correct exposure. If the light declines your camera will keep increasing your ISO to allow you to use the SS and Aperture you set. The issue is if the ISO gets too high you get a lot of noise and the IQ drops. Understanding how exposure works is very important for wildlife photography and worth playing around with yourself. Good luck, Cheers, Duade
Can you give an idea of what the effective range is for a certain length of lenses? I have an 80 to 200 Nikon with a 2x adapter and the birds are nowhere near as scoped in as yours. I understand you are using a bigger lens but I would still like to know what your distance is from the bird when you take your shot.
G'day John, it depends on the bird and scenario. For setups probably between 6-10m, but the shorter your focal length the closer you have to get. One way to know if you need to get closer is how much you crop, if you are cropping heavily then you may have to get more focal length or get closer. I realise this is not always possible and sometimes there is no substitute for focal length. Cheers, Duade 👍
@@Duade HI. Yeah I thought it was a bit confusing. Especially since coming from the film mode, where ISO definately plays a large role. But again not the only one.But I did some experimenting following this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2jkf31w7fwU.html check it out. I works and makes perfect sense to me now.
G'day, I use the following website. www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html If you put in your exposure settings it will tell you. I hope that helps, Cheers, Duade
G'day Glenn, thanks for your comment, you can use exposure compensation to fine tune your exposure if using Aperture Priority or Auto ISO modes. We want our histogram exposed to the right without clipping the whites, if your image is slightly underexposed you can use + compensation to push it to the right. By getting a correct exposure you will have the best file with the least amount of noise for that exposure. Cheers, Duade
G'day Carlos, if you check the description there is a link to the calculator where you put in your camera settings and it tells you the light value. Cheers, Duade 👍
@@philipfoster7269 Thanks Philip, yes it is crazy, I'm not sure if you saw my recent video showcasing DXO or not but yes I was impressed. Cheers, Duade
Hi very informative. I used this LV technique after watching your video and maintained LV between 10 to 12 for overcast day. Got good results at ISO 800 and 1600 f6.3 to f8. But when increased shutter speed without altering ISO and f value the LV value increases. My question is how LV getting high value as shutter speed is increased as increasing shutter speed is letting less light to fall on sensor. Pl. advise
G'day the Light Value reflects the settings you put in. To have an accurate LV you should have the correct exposure. So it's not about trying to get your LV to a certain number, it is just a guide to tell you how much light is available. If it's heavily overcast a correct exposure will likely have a LV around 7 or 8, when the sun is out a correct exposure will be around 15. You should not be trying to get your LV higher, it merely tells you how much light is available. The best bet is to try and get a correct exposure for the light you have. Cheers, Duade 👍
thanks your video, I also use topaz in Photoshop but after the denoise, it did not create a new layer like yours in the video? Do you have to mask the bird first and create a new layer then use topaz on this layer?
G'day Jason, my bad, it does not create a new layer, I must have automatically done that from habit before applying NR. I create a new layer, run the noise reduction, and then apply the mask. I actually mask out the bird after opening the file in photoshop and create this as a solid colour layer and just hide it, I can then copy that selection any time I want to make adjustments to the bird or background. Cheers, Duade
Thanks Duade, another great video to enjoy! Would you recommend using Lightroom/ Classic to de-noise a picture? I am not too sure if I should get Topaz Denoise or not. Cheers and keep up the good work!
G'day, yes Lightroom does noise reduction, and you can mask out the bird in lightroom. It just takes a little longer and isn't quite as good. You can download a trial of Denoise to try for yourself if you want. Depends also how bad noise is in your photos, if it's not that bad then Lightroom may suffice. Cheers, Duade
G'day Abhishek, the 90D is a good camera and should handle high iso well. You can still crop the image, just don't overdo it. It is probably best to do it on an image by image basis, it all depends on how much noise is in the file to start with. If you have a noisy image then cropping will only make it worse. Ultimately it is a balance and you can make a decision based off what you feel is right. Cheers, Duade
Hi Duade, Thanks for posting this video, I found it very useful and it really helped my understanding about noise in photographic images etc. I wanted to subscribe to your channel as I can see you have posted some other videos on matters that look useful. However, I have tried several times to subscribe but after leaving the RU-vid page the subscription is removed and your channel is no longer my list of subscriptions. I was wondering if there is an issue with your channel settings, ie perhaps it has detected that I'm a British Pom and refused my request. ha ha or is there something else that is preventing it?
G'day Robert, thank you very much for your comment. I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble subscribing, I have not changed anything my end and I am still getting new subs daily. Perhaps try subscribing from my channel page ru-vid.com/show-UC7cMXJb97jITBo5jMBdAsTw or maybe the small fairy wren in the bottom right of most of my videos. I hope you can subscribe. Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Thanks for your reply. Just thought I'd let you know that I have now managed to subscribe to your channel. However, in order to do so I have had to change my RU-vid login to alternative account. Obviously there was an issue with my previous account but for the life of me I have no idea what it might be. Thanks again. (Robert Burnett)
Thanks Eddie, I think the Canons lag behind Sony in this regard. I believe they still show excess noise if underexposed and corrected in post. I probably need to do some test shots to see if there is any real world difference between post and in camera. Cheers, Duade 👍
ISO 3200 on a 5D4 isn't really a test is it ?? I shot 2 baby owls the other night at 12,800 on a 7Dc, try noise reduction on that type of image for a true test of your skills and technique...........
G'day, yes the 5d4 does handle 3200 pretty easily which is great. 12800 on an old 7D does sound like a challenge, I can only assume there was a lot of noise. Cheers, Duade
Increasing the ISO does not increase the light, the amount of light stays the same. ISO only amplifies the signal and because the lower the light the more noise and the more noise is additionally amplified too! If shooting in RAW, in manual mode, the light noise is the only source of noise, and the processor does lineary denoise (if that would ever effect RAW) there should not be any necessity for increading ISO - except maybe for autofocusing.
G'day, you are correct, increasing ISO does not increase the light value. I hope I explained that by saying you only have a certain amount of light when you take the shot. I also mention increasing ISO by a stop halves the light needed to expose the photo. It may have been confusing of me to say the camera has more light to play with, I was inferring that as you increase ISO you can increase your shutter speed as you have the available light to do so. Cheers, Duade