instead of the special tool, I used a home-made puller out of "box" section spark-plug wrench, some big washers and a suitable length, correct thread bolt to fit the spindles and then just proceeded like you did. Heated the head by removing rocker covers and applying a bit of propane to the the alloy around where the spindle fits into. All worked well for me.
Excellent tips! Thanks very much for sharing! Great to hear a voice from near home too! We always joke that any shop manual procedure starts with "Step 1 drain and remove fuel tank, seat, rear wheel and primary cover. Step 2 Use Norton Tool #375 and Whitworth 1/4W wrench to....." Nothing like British Engine repair! We don't carry tool kits, we're followed by support vehicles. Keep them coming, much appreciated!
Good info but please, please add to it that the heat is *necessary* when you're installing or removing the spindles to prevent damage to the bores in the head. The head is made from an aviation alloy called RR-53B, Rolls Royce grade 53, B variant. It's a super alloy, developed for Rolls Royce military aviation engines but the "B" alloy was designed especially for pistons. It works great as a head alloy because it's very strong for its weight but the B-variant is designed to "smear" before it cracks or seizes. The design is for a shrink-fit so that the spindles don't bounce around as the cam lifts the valve gear and drops it. Since it's designed that way, the fit is tight enough to wipe off layers of alloy in the bores if the head isn't heated. It is a danger when taking them out but it's worse putting them in because the front edges of the spindle being driven in push the metal in the bore like a bulldozer pushing gravel and once that's happened the bore is scarred and gouged out of round. Please, don't use a screw-type puller. The slide hammer is designed so that you can't put too much force on the spindlesm. If the head is warm enough to release the spindles, they'll come out with the amount of force that the slide hammers applies. Using a screw-type puller will apply enough force to pull the spindles out when they're not released and score the bore in the head. Don't wreck a Norton head, use enough heat to loosen the spindles and only use the slide hammer. Experience talking here.
Oops, I've definitely used the slide hammer to pull the Rocker spindles out, I should probably count my blessings that I didn't damage anything... Thanks for the info and the refresher on which way to refit the spindles (that part I did get right😅) Cheers!
As per usual, great to hear from you. Do you have any tips for improving the front disk? I remember some white knuckle times when I wasn't sure it was actually going to stop in time.
Just the usual...make sure the pistons aren't seized, make sure the brake hose isn't plugged and throw some Ferodo pads at it. It isn't the best brake but good enough really. An AP caliper or Brembo upgrade is a game changer but will cost a few bucks.
