Use this technique, THEN realize that your pipes were cut to the correct length originally. Now, the pipe is too short to be used because of the notch and the material is wasted. Nice technique, but will take proper planning.
A+ excellent instruction...far better than all the rattling on others do. thanks for sparing me all the unnecessary yakking. i saw you did small patches and allowed each to cool briefly before continuing and seemed like low voltage on that thin pipe stopped holes from being burned.. thanks
Ive been a pipefitter for 15 years and i’ve never seen this done once. And it never will be, and it never has been, anywhere in the world ever 😂 but nice little d.i.y home project idea
I can't see the point. I'm a mechanic and welded lots of exhaust for 20 some years. Nothing ever fell apart just joining the pipe and laying down a bead.
RIght?! Maybe, I won't ever use it, but its a cool way to think about what can sometimes be a difficult problem with a poor setup.. But I agree, I don't know that I have ever seen it done in real life, especially with standard exhaust work. That said, I get myself into enough weird situations, I can see myself having to do it someday.
My guess is it is a homemade welder made from HAND-wound copper wire transformer in a shanty-town. And only 6010 or expensive 7018 welding rods are availible. Since the power is not enough to sustain an arc with 6010 or 6011 to actually melt through the pipe. This is most likely the one national instruction video they have Dont forget to dream and space off about instant silicon based food hydration generators.
Agreed. It's one of those "book learnin" on paper things. technically you have doubled the length of the seam and applied more weld which on paper should be stronger...but again, like you said, nobody does it in practice as its a cumbersome waste of time.
You should try to weld in one go making figure 8 movements. If you start / stop like you do, you will create slag inclusions , weakening the joint and possibly leakage later on.
Metal is way to thin to run it in 1 consistent bead . Your heat trail will blow right through. This start stop method keeps metal cool enough to not punch through. yes u wil be prone to get incluson but he is also welding a lightweight fence rail for light duty, it will work . This isnt structural material he is using. 6010 is fast freeze rod (whip this rod) (more metal and less flux) w low hydrogen content as previous commenter stated . Only thing he could have done is stop clean restart but that would have 10x added working time for a light duty application it will suffice.
Occurs to me that for thin-wall like EMT I could make a sleeve just by expanding using an expander or by cutting and spreading a slice. If that could be flowed with solder - plenty strong for most applications. Would probably be the strongest point in the tube. I need to start building with EMT or other inexpensive 1" thin wall or smaller for a lot of projects. Motivation to get to welding. :) Anyway - if you're answering - what do you think?
I have no idea why you think the finished pipe isn't the one he welded? What's the big deal in grinding the weld off to make it look that it was all one pipe in the first place? PLUS you can see the flux from the weld fall on the table as he is grinding.
What I would like to know or what was the welding voltage he use to preform the weld? I have been having trouble with the rods either running too cold or too hot. Can’t seem to find the right medium to get a great pudding. Tired of burning through the exhaust pipes.
If this was a structural, load bearing tube, you would want a smaller tube that fits the inner diameter very closely. It would have to be quite a bit longer than that joint in either direction ( for strength) and held in place with plug/ rosette welds. I have seen fish mouthed tubes to join tubes before, but never this method.
You can’t stop and start a bead like that without cleaning the flux, and glass off of it. It pollutes the weld and causes lack of fusion. Further more this fit up for your pipe is very strange. You didn’t clean the metal, it is unbevled, and you seem to be using a common 6010 electrode when it’s usually common to use a 7018 electrode for a welding pass like this. Also, why the hell are you welding with holes in your gloves?
Although recommended, you do not need to clean your metal before welding with 6010. That metal is thin enough to get full penetration with 6010. The metal is 1/16th of an inch thick why would you put a bevel on it. That's why he was tack welding it instead of running a straight bead, yes you can do that with 6010 it's a deep penetration rod not low hydrogen it'll be fine.
Согласен с тобой! Не пойму для чего так делать. А ещё можно сверху наложить пластины из десятки и во внутрь кругляк сварить. Всё сгниет, а стык останется 😂😂😂
Personally I’d just bevel the pipe and weld it that way. The “tap” welding he did for joining the two seen at 1:22 is quite shit for structural durability due to material being stuck within the metal.
Why in the world would you do this? For the life of me, I can’t figure out why! This isn’t even close to being the first second or third choice to do this.maybe and only maybe if it’s not going to have any pressure inside for a fence or something.
@@daynecarmichael Hi Dayne, this is mechanical engineer.Every weld connection which can transfer load are good. In this example the load will expand on bigger length of weld instead of axial simple connectiin .butting. But connection is always put on place where is bending moment and shear force are small
You can put back plate insade of tube and tu have good weld. For responsible construction thickness of tube are 4mm and higher, I use back plate plus I put 4 ribs around the pipe
@@daynecarmichael a correct full-pen bevel weld will be as stronger (if not stronger) than the general tubesteel found in the common structural market (A500 Gr. B or the EU Equiv.). If the fractures are happening at the welds, it's likely due to improper preparation, incorrect stick/flux combinations, incorrect welder settings or improper technique. Not once, in my many years of doing structural construction, have I ever seen anyone go through the hastle of welding a pair of tubesteel ends together like this.
In a video a week or so ago, you used rd-260 e6013. I can’t find anything on this rod. Can you help and what is the difference? Thank you again for your wealth of knowledge!!
@@wh8378 Couldn't agree more. This is a lot more messing about than doing it the correct way with NO benefit whatsoever. i work in pipe fitting and welding and am also a qualified steam raising boiler operator and know that everything you said is spot on. As I said, nobody would do this and nor should they.
Seriously? I’m pretty sure this is less a video about good welding techniques than an overly long video contrivance intended to get viewer engagement points on RU-vid’s algorithm.
guys i have a question, how strong is extended swing arm by welding? is it reliable? can it last for a decade? im planning to have my motorcycle customized into scrambler
Don't! Longitudinal stresses are more likely to affect the weld than hoop stress. Free advice from someone who paid thousands of dollars for that knowledge.
This is not necessary and is in no way an industry-standard, it's Steel, not wood. If welded correctly, the weld is stronger than the base metal. Butt.them up, Turn and Burn
