Sir I just want to say thank you for the step by step tutorial in tare down and rebuilding of this transfer case. Helped me a ton with my blazer build.
Disregard, I finally saw them. Got them out. I'm watching the next video now. Your videos have been a huge help. Love the kids too....lol. I may have to send you a message if I get stumped on the reassembly. Thanks again!!
Thank you so much for your np205 and sm465 videos I just finished rebuilding both of mine, your videos made it less confusing for me but I found a few shortcuts as far as the shift fork roll pins I made a video and I'll upload it asap
In all 3 cases of outer snap rings on the bearings. They did not need to be removed. They are just stops to keep the bearing from going in. I did this job a long time ago. This is a pretty detailed teardown. refreshing my memory. Trying to remember what sets the gear lash as well as output play. My front output seems loose but its a fairly new bearing. It has got me puzzled.
I have a 78 K5 Blazer with a SM465 and NP205. I'm planning and pulling and rebuilding both. And doing the twin stick mod. I wouldn't have considered any of it before coming across your videos. Excellent content. Subscribed and saved all of your videos on those rebuilds. Looking forward to diving into it this summer.
Yes actually just finished it a couple weeks ago. Rebuilt the NP205 and installed the twin stick. Took it out on the trail this past weekend and it worked great So glad I did it. @@workingmansrestorations7071
I'm looking to just do gaskets on mine out the main output assembly where the speedometer cable is. I imagine this is quite a task judging by the way it comes apart? Both gaskets are weeping, the cast iron cover and the aluminum cover for the output. -Shawn
That's pretty funny! I'm not a huge fan of coiled hoses either, especially when they're knocking stuff down and wrapping around my kids and pets like a python! I'm glad you liked my videos! Thank you for watching and commenting, God bless!
Very helpful video, thank you. The torque rod or bar breaks because the bolt hole cuts the material to nil, and its very narrow as it is. Haven't watched the other vids yet, but the torque bar needs to be wider at the case, I'd recommend more like 2" wide x 3/8" thick steel plate. (My 91 Dodge Cummins doesn't have a torque bar)
CharlieMoDank14 thank you, I’m glad you like my material! Unfortunately I don’t have the truck or any way to show you where that goes at the moment. Maybe search “Chevy torque arm” or “Chevy 4x4 t case torque rod”. Hope that helps, God bless.
Great video, I've watched this one a few times before I started. Mine is on a 74 Chevy K20. I have it out and I am trying to get the forks out. But I do not see a roll pin looking down the freeze plug hole. I can see the shaft of the fork but no hole for like a roll pin. What do I do?
I know you will be using your side mount for the 205 and said some like to eliminate it. I myself had problems with my adapter breaking when used behind a 454/465/205 combo. I had to replace 2 way back when adapters were still available at the dealer and only $50 or so at the junkyards. I then updated my 205 from a 78 3/4 ton truck when I replaced the 2nd adapter but noticed the case was not drilled for the side mount. I asked a buddy at the dealer and was told due to a known problem with adapter breakage GM eliminated the side mount to alleviate the issue. Since then no more issues under heavy towing and rock crawling abuse!
+Tony More Very interesting! I too have noticed some that were not drilled and wondered the same thing. Thanks a ton for the input and for watching!! God bless!Just to be certain: you have no other braces or mounts other than motor mounts and tranny/transfer case cross member mount?
+GebBuilt Correct, just engine and tranny mounts. Great vids and love to see the kids in the shop! Im a AHD and my 19month old had been starting to spend more time with me in the shop, getting an hour or so at a time to tackle a project has been rough so looking forward to be able to finish something soon and it looks like the 465 is the one!
That's some great input about the mounts! thank you very much! Having my kids out there is how I like it- I get lonely when they're not in the background or at my side:)
Can you replace both the front and rear output shaft seals without taking it clear apart. I'm just wanting to replace the main seals and keep driving it. Wasn't sure it pulling the yokes off would mess anything up inside.
Hey can you please make a video on how you make your torque rod i would like to build one when i do my rebuild/ twin stick thank you for all the videos they are helping me alot God bless
So I was just at the sand dunes in my 1970 gmc jimmy. It has the same setup as you an np205 mated to a sm465. During my trip on the sand I all of a sudden lost 4x4 capabilities. It got really difficult just to drive on flat sand that I just came thru without any trouble at all. I heard a clunking sound as well every time the drive shaft would turn. I also had a hell of a time getting it out of 4 lo but once it did finally bang out of lo, and into 2 hi, my 2 hour drive home was normal. Got home and started taking apart in the truck to see what I could see, my bearing just fell out as soon as I pushed the output shaft out the back. Snap ring still on it. Could this of been the cause of my losing front wheel drive?
Unbelievably helpful videos!! Can you suggest a way to punch out the old seals on the aluminum retainers? I don't want to break them or scuff the inner sealing area. Thanks!
+Ammature Well sometimes the seals can really be stuck in there. just be very careful and concentrate on not making contact with the aluminum. The old seal doesn't matter anymore, so in many cases I've mangled the heck out of it to get it out to save the aluminum piece. I know, not much help but it's all I got right now... God bless!
After watching several vids on this task iT Looks rather straight forward piece to work on. I have not ID’ed my unit yet in a 78 J1O Jeep w TH400. Whom is a good supplier of these new parts for these? And do they parts supplier usually have the nylon fork pieces too, as I am finding these should be replaced . thx
Thanks for making and posting these vids. Quick question. Did your input shaft have a lot of end play before the rebuild? I have about an eighth of an inch where the input shaft with bearing with slide in and out. Thank you again.
Excellent question, I did have a little bit but I don't think it was as much as 1/8" I hope that answers your question, thank you so much for watching and commenting! God bless!
Great video I'm planning on rebuilding my 205 with the twin stick. Question, the larger bearings that you removed the snap ring on, then hit them from the backside to get them out of the case. Do those snap rings act as a bottom out point when reinstalling them? It doesn't seam you need to remove the larger snap rings to remove the bearing. Thanks again for the great video
Great point and to answer your question - yes. I prefer to replace snap rings when I am that far into a build. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment! God bless!
I’m trying to convert my 10 spline input into a yoke . I already have the seal but what yoke do I use? It’s a GM 10 spline input. Can’t find any info anywhere. Thanks for the vid 🙏🏽
Thanks for the video... I have a question. I am planning to install it on a G-Wagon vehicle(vg150 t/c -> np205 t/c). Is it(np205) possible to exchange the left and right gear assemblies? On the G-Wagon, the rear propeller shaft is located on the right.(not center axle...)
Thanks for the great video, but I didn’t see where the front output seal was while you were disassembling. Also is that the thrust washer (it’s about 1” thick) behind the bearing at 6:25?
Hi Geb, thank you for the excellent video! I'm having trouble separating my sm465 adapter from the tcase, output shaft seems attached to the coupler inside the adapter somehow. Any tips?
Do you have any idea why or what could be wrong to cause my np205 T case to be full of transmission fluid, well above the fill plug. It is in an early 70s Chevy if that helps.
Love your video. I am pulling my 205 apart to reseal and check the bearings. everything went well till i went to remove the idler shaft. The whole shaft spins with the nut. i got it to loosen but now the whole things turn. i am unable to get the nut off or tighten it back down. What am I missing or what is the trick? Thanks
I figured it out......I had to place a washer under the back cover and tighten it down. That held it snug enough. Only other thing different than yours was my idler gear only had 2 shims in it not 4. Pretty sure someone had been in it before because they double sealed the input shaft.
I'm trying to figure out why my np 205 doesnt use a clip to retain the rear output bearing. I didnt see you remove one either..The schematic clearly shows one, but I cant find it online to purchase. On the off chance you still read the comments; should there be a retaining ring on the rear output shaft as a bearing retainer?
I got a np205 for a Chevrolet it's making a lot of popping noises in it tore it apart I thought that was a bad gear but all gears are good I hope I wonder if it was just a bearing and where can i buy the bearing kit with the gasket
Most good parts stores have the kit, but if that's not an option then go eBay or other online source. I wouldn't settle for Generic bearings though. Timkin bearings are my top choice.
thanks for the video i have a 205 and it seems i have two leaks one at the speedo cable and the other at the input shaft, are both an easy fix just replacing seals i assume?
+Rockin Pip Yep they should be pretty straight forward. Speedo drive seals have been lubing undercarriages since the 70's! thank you for watching, God Bless!
Hey geb hows it going. just wanted to tell you i got a 383 for the 78 cj7. im doing the np 205 rebuild and the sm465 rebuild you did. im also going to reseal my dana 60 front(pinion seal) Thanks for your vids and i cant wait to put this 450 ft lbs of torque in the jeep!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GEB, GEB, GEB, Holy you know WHAT!!!!! 383 is in and a difference between night and day is an understatement!!!!!! this engine has great power!!! The cam that it came with it has great vacuum pressure for power brakes and power steering, which made me very happy. My friend who helped me put it in is a drag engine guy that also does mud trucks. Crazy combo i know! After it was in he took me for a test run and man he took off like a bat out of the devils house! spun tires in all 4 gears. Had me holding on like never before. I dont want to tear down the tranny and xcase now but i know i have to for it to run great for a long time. FUN FUN FUN. I can see myself getting into some trouble with this baby!!!! Thanks again for your vids
Great info, Geb i have a set up a lot like you got.(except for vehicle type) 1978 Cj7 , sbc 350, sm465, np 205, dana 60 front and 14 bolt FF rear. My gears are 4.88 though and detroit locked up front and rear. I also did the disc brake conversion. all your vids are going to help the crap outta me!!!!! right now i got a head gasket blown or cracked head. it is running now with a band aid but i am going to rebuild soon. just havent made up my mind to go 383 or a beefy 350? i am wanting great torque. speed is not an issue as i have 42 inch tires and lifted 6 inches or so. i never go over 65. any ideas would be awesome
Sounds like an awesome rig! I have a soft spot for 383 stroker motors ever since my grandpa introduced me when I was a kid, so of course I'll suggest it! it's a relatively easy build that has awesome results no matter how exotic you go and I believe would be perfect for your ride. I appreciate you watching!! God Bless!
Hey geb how are you doing man. Hey do you know what size the bolt that holds the shift stick to the case on a sm465. It's at the lower end on the stick. Thanks man
Am I able to pull the rear output shaft bearing with the case still mounted in my truck? It’s the only thing wrong with mine and is making a lovely growling sound while moving especially while under load.
Samuel Holstein good question and I am not sure. There were a few different spline and adapter configurations that could come into play for you. I wish I had better info for you.
I have welded the stock ones with 7018 rod before with success, otherwise I would fabricate a cool one out of some good chomoly. I have also heard of folks eliminating it totally without issue. I wish I had some more conclusive info for you. Thank you for watching and commenting! God bless!
+Eight Leg Outdoors I've never pulled one like that, but yes if you have a good bearing puller and enough room I'd give it a shot if that is the only issue with the transfer case. Thanks for asking, God Bless!!
No problem. I'd do this stuff and post instructional vids on it every day if I could but this darn thing called a job prevents that😁. Hope it works out for you to be able to pull that in the truck.
Hey Geb I was wondering where I can get both gears for the speedo....mine ate each other, if you could point me in the right direction it would be very helpful. Thanks
That's an excellent question- I've only seen a few random speedo parts on eBay so that's an option, but Novak adapters may have some now that I think about it. They have a website. Thanks for the comment and God bless!!
I'm rebuilding a GM NP205, it's a 1978 case & it has the material cast into the housing where your torque rod mounts, but on mine, there is no machining or tapped provision for a torque rod. Do you know which years GM had the torque rod & which years didn't? It just seems strange that some would have it & some didn't. Thanks again for your video, it's better than the best repair manual.
From my understanding the torque rod was added in the later years, but seemed to cause more problems than it solved. I've had broken bell housings with the rods and without the rods so it is something that still baffles me. I've resorted to using Lakewood steel bell housings and good polyurethane cross member mounts with success. Thank you so much for the kind words and for watching! God bless!
GebBuilt: I'm glad you brought up the issue of cracked bellhousings. I've cracked 6 aluminum bellhousings on 2 of my previous Chevys, but I'm going all out this project so I can hopefully rule that out in the future. I'm definitely taking your advice with the polyurethane mounts & I'll probably breakdown & drop the coin on a Lakewood steel bellhousing, but I'm curious; have you ever seen an OEM cast iron GM bellhousing fail? You got a new subscriber, thanks again & God bless.
Thanks a ton for subscribing! I've never owned a GM iron housing but I'd guess they'd fall between aluminum and aftermarket steel as far as strength. havefun with your project!
Good question. They are very stout but I’d probably be researching upgrades at 900 hp and those tires. I could be wrong. Maybe ask some truck pullers. I’ve seen these cases on some big horse 4x4 pullers but not sure what they’ve done to the 205 to handle it.
Note: This comment has almost nothing to do with the informative and helpful video that GebBuilt has created. And if you don't know what I'm joking about, you should listen to about 30 seconds of the theme song from the movie 'Shaft' (skip ahead to almost the 3 minute mark), ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q429AOpL_ds.html ------------------------ I was watching this video while my girlfriend was in the room. We were sitting next to each other on the sofa because we 'need to spend more time together', but I'm wearing headphones and watching this on my laptop while she's watching Downton Abbey on the television. At 16:50 GebBuilt held the center spindle to the camera and said, "Shaft." And because I'm a movie trivia nerd I said back to him, out loud, "Can you dig it..." My girlfriend looked at me and said, "What?" I paused the video, looked at her and said, "Shaft!" She asked, "Shaft?" And I said, "You damn right..." And she said, "What the FUCK are you talking about?" Almost bursting, I said, "I'm talkin' 'bout Shaft!" And now I'm laughing, which was a big mistake because my girlfriend hates to be on the outside of any joke. At that point she huffed, turned away from me, and said, "Fine, fuck you!" Her statement is, of course, the polar opposite of any offer for sex. Unable to contain myself, I said, "Right On..." and laughed for waaay too long. The temperature on the couch was cool for the rest of the evening. Possibly because for the rest of the evening I failed at holding in little spouts of giggling each time she looked at me. ----------------------- So I didn't have sex, but now I know how to take apart the divorced NP205 I bought for my old '68 W100 Dodge Sweptline.
