Thank you for the explanation of operation and tear down showing how it goes together and all the knowledge of what happens with these nailers. I dropped mine 9 feet right onto the concrete nothing appeared damaged but it wont fire anymore... Now I am certain my issue is the body was bent inward and the cylinder can't move.
Which oring? One one at the bottom of the housing? The one on the inner part of the cylinder plate or outer part of the cylinder plate? Or the two orings on the outer part of the cylinder guide?
@@Allenr1967 off the parts list I believe its item 26. Its a oring that goes in the housing just above the bumper and its a "innie" oring not an outie . its a blind fit when you put in the cylinder if it hits and binds on oring it shears it. Air is coming straight out of the safety trigger I figure its that oring, but have no clue. thanks
Ok, on the NR83A5 breakdown. Item 26 is the housing. 27 is an oring that goes in the lower portion of the housing just above the bumper. This item 27 oring only seals the air return chamber. And if it is compromised. Air would leak out the nose when the nailer is held in the engaged position. If the nailer leaks out the safety valve as soon as connect air. You have to replace oring item #'s 13, 14. 16, 18 and 39. In other words. All the orings around the two Chambers that move the cylinder up and down to include the figure 8 between the cap and housing. It it started leaking after someone worked on it. Just check and make sure the figure 8 is in the correct position. There is a big end and small end and could leak out the safety if installed backwards.
Also if the cylinder is cutting that oring 27 at the bottom. Check to make sure your cylinder is not worn to the point of being sharp. It should be replaced if worn to the point that the bottom is sharp. Also check to see if the housing is still round. If dropped the housing could be pinching that oring.
@@Allenr1967 OK that worked, now its leaking out the trigger I replaced the packout thick rubber washer, used the same check ball same plunger, same oring. I propbly tighted it as best I could, is all this that sensitive to fail like this? does the ball wear out, no way I can check the dia. the plunger and oring have no visible signs of wear, should I replace anyway? thanks so much
@@Allenr1967 Ive replaced that. Is it possible it's not seating correctly when putting cap on? Leak is from exhaust ports Running at 70 psi could that be too low somehow?
I have an Hitachi NR 90AE that was working OK until I started adjusting the nail depth. The leak started directly above the trigger (piston feed area I believe) and only leaks when I pull the trigger. It does not eject a nail. Unfortunately as I reread the manual, I forget to disconnect the pressure hose when I made the depth adjustments. Is there a video or instructions on testing or repairing this area? Thanks
I apologize for the extreme late reply. A year ago was extremely hard for my family situation. But on those models. The depth of drive can be adjusted too far in and out. I would first try adjusting the depth back to a more natural adjustment. I will work on a NR90 service video. The NR90 is a head value designed tool.
This is a great video but I do have a question I have a nr83a2 that's leaking air on the trigger I replaced the valves for new ones but leak still there any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated
There are two values at the trigger area. If the air is coming from the actual trigger value. The leak is the ball or value packing or the small o-ring on the trigger plunger. If the leak is at the safety value. (The value closest to the body at the trigger) The faulty parts are the o-rings on the cylinder or cylinder plate or cylinder guild. An o-ring kit of original manufacturer o-rings for the main body should fix it.
Hey its depends on the air leakage if you press the trigger and the it leaks then the problem is in the trigger but if its leak aging from trigger without pressing it then the problem is inside the gun with cylinder rings
How similar is this to the original / japan Nr83aa? I've been rebuilding them for years but the one I have now has me stumped. I've learned some things to try though. Great video!
Hey man great video very well explained how can I get the same posters on your wall that show the inner workings of the nailer and I would also like the hard drive you were talking about
I am a framing contractor and what I am wondering is how or can I change the triggers out in these newer NR85 back to the triggers in the original NR83, they were way better triggers in the older ones and easier to use?
@@Allenr1967 Ok so I would need the older housings? If I am able to find or take some old broken down ones I am looking for someone or if you are able or interested in building taking old parts to build me some of the older versions of the original NR83s?
@@wadezuver5637 there is an aftermarket company making the old design 83A nailer. It's pretty cheap but is not made of the old high grade aluminum as the ones from the late 80's early 90s. But as cheap they are and as simple design. It may be worth a trial run on the jobsite.
Air Locker... I'm not endorsing them in any way. I'm only letting you know what I've seen at some contractors supply stores. www.airlockernailers.com/air-locker-al83a-full-round-head-framing-nailer-3-1-4-inch-generic-hitachi-nr83a2
I'm having an issue with 2 guns, an 83aa and an aa5. Both guns fire every other nail. It seems that when it doesn't shoot a nail, it's because the driver doesn't come back all the way. It sounds different when this happens. On both guns I've replaced all cylinder o rings and driver/o ring, and it helped for an hour then right back to same problem. Please help! Edit: I'll add, if I try to fire them quickly (5 shots per second ish) they both sound like their running out of air, if that makes sense)
Yes. It makes sense. Let me go over some common things it might be. *If compress air tanks are not drained regularly. You could have built up water in them which could be pushed through the hose and into the nailer. Water in the passage ways could starve the nailer of air pressure. *In the same direction. If grease is used as lubrication in the nailer. You could have grease clogging the passage ways. Try cleaning those passage ways with pipe cleaners and use compressed air to blow directly through the passage ways. *Another possible thing. If the driver flops back and forth when the nailer is turned upside down. Take the driver out. Remove the oring and examine the slot the original goes in. Look at it as a cross section. The bottom of the slot should look square. If the bottom of the slot is rounded. It is worn out and the oring is not holding enough air pressure behind the driver to function correctly. *Check and make sure the driver travels through the nose without restrictions. Nose or driver could be bent. * Check the exhaust value in the cap for wear. If it's worn, it could cause abnormal cycling. * Last possibility, Check the ease of travel of fasteners going through the magazine. The clipped head magazines are created to a slightly tighter tolerance. So different manufacturers of fasteners can have different preference. If the magazine is dirty or bent. It could definitely cause stripes of fasteners to travel through the mag harder. I hope any of this helps. They are all just possible causes.
@Allenr1967 thank you so much for the response. I tried calling metabo, but it was a waste of my time. Tanks are drained twice a day, typically. We use kilfrost now in the winter to lube. It's happening to two guns that are fairly old, not to the new ones. You may be on to something with the pipe cleaner. Not sure which passageways exactly but I'll poke around. That definitely sounds like it could be the problem. Our jobs are muddy, icy, wet and overall shitty. The drivers and their o rings are both brand new, fit snugly and travel all the way with firm finger pressure. Magazines are feeding well (when the driver fully retracts). I really appreciate your time... these are the best guns ever made imo and I refuse to trash them!
I've watched this a couple times everthing in mine seems to be there. It's blasting air out the exhaust when connected and the trigger does nothing. when I open it up the piston keeps getting pushed all the way down. Any ideas what to look at?
The cylinder is stuck in the down position. The body down by the nose might be bent. If it's not bent bad. Connect it to air and with a soft rubber mallet hit the head cap near the exhaust to jar the cylinder loose so it seals up.
@@Allenr1967 I was looking at it a little more I have it in the up position when I reassembled it so I wouldn't think that it would be jamming in the nose until the first fire. This is upon air connection it does it. I looked though at the top of the cylinder it looks like a groove is wore in it at the id oring at the flange I wonder if the cylinder is shot and needs to be replaced.
@@Allenr1967 I'll set it up in the mill and take a dial indicator and check the hole at the bottom to see how out of round it is to make sure it's not bent. if it is I'll set it up in a cnc and mill it round again. That cylinder top now that I look at it seems kind of hokey though there's noticeable wear in the od of the cylinder the length of the travel at the top I wonder if it's blowing by the oring.
@@Allenr1967 Wierd question is the piston bumper hole supposed to be the same size as the driver to seal it the bumper I have that I ordered is quite large compared to the driver so in my mind since it is not allowing the cylinder to seal. In the parts that I ordered from online there are 2 numbers for the bumper which I find odd. I might order the other number.
Remove the cover from tool. Loosen the three bolt in the top of the cover without fully removing. Tap bolt heads with rubber mallet to brake inner bumper loose from cover. Remove bolts and all bits of gasket inside cover without damaging the aluminum cover. Use new gaskets and new upper bumper and reassemble. Don't use gasket goop.
Excellent video. By far the most comprehensive video I have ever seen on these types of guns. I was wondering if you could please offer your opinion as to why my NR83A5 is not driving the nails all the way through? Please advice, G.
It could be a number of things. I'll just hit some of the common issues seen from customers tools. *Lack of lubrication. *Air pressure at the end of the hose is less than 70 psi. *The tip of the driver has broken off. * The piston, piston ring or cylinder are worn to the point that it is losing pressure during the cycle. * Material that fasteners are bring driven in to is too hard like solid OSB beams. * Air passage way in tool might be slightly blocked by dirt or grease.
@@Allenr1967 Thank you so very much for the information. This is what I have done so far, 1. I dial up to 110 psi at end of the house 2. Lubricated with proper oil 3. Material is regular framing Douglas Fir. 4. Air passage cleaned up. I will check the following: "*The tip of the driver has broken off. * The piston, piston ring or cylinder are worn to the point that it is losing pressure during the cycle". I will update with results! Thanks again,
