Odes, Massimo, Bennche common issues 

There is a single wire connector it believe it's under the hood on the driver side riptide to an upright frame rail. All you have to do is disconnect it. Some are under the seat & are a white connector & some are under the hood & are a single black connector

You are a genius! It was the single point black connector under the front hood. Runs like a dream! I've been trying to get the dealer I bought it from (which is 3 hrs from me) to tell me where it is for a week and won't get back with me! You are a huge help! Thank you so much!

Glad I could help you out. Definitely sounds like the typical dealer unfortunately. Alot of people who get a hold of me tell me I have more information than the manufacturer 😆

They are a can am replica but not all can am parts will fit. It also could be a water pump seal

That's the best Idea you have is to sell it. I promise you it will be a constant battle till you do sell it. The Hondas are nice but I love Can am. That's probably because I use to work for them lol.

The 2017 Dominator 1000 had a slew of issues. Of course as you know the charging system was an issue with those with melting the stator plug. Also the transmission was a big issue with those with the not backing back off and pushing a hole through the left side of transmission into the CVT causing clutch failures and major destruction. A lot of times the nuts do back off the differentials like that. I would definitely get in there and check the front and rear diff for sure. They also make a regulator rectifier relocation kit and you can try to get a hold of Scott swords at Scooter Powersports you can give you things you need to do the relocation

It definitely really possible that the starter clutch/ spray clutch took a crap. You will have to pull the stator cover off & see if the gear sprins both directions. If so then it's bad. Not to hard to replace, just a little time consuming.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 ok thank you I’m gonna dive into mkndsy

I personally don't see the harm in changing it to a 75w-140. But some would say stay with the 80w for the diffs in the older models. But I haven't had any issues with running the 75w-140. Next time I get one in the shop I'll try to make some videos on upgrades & for them.

Thanks the manual does not specify for the trans @@limitlesspowersportsservic3394

Tony that all depends on the model of the others. But I probably would still choose a can-am are polaris over the odes. Don't get me wrong tho, every manufacturer has its problems but Odes seem to have way more constant issues. I have also worked on some really reliable odes but that is a rare occasion.

It's a really good possibility that your fuel pump went out. I have replace so many fuel pumps on those things I can even count that high.

I can't remember if those have a front & rear sway bar? That plays a big part in swaying back & forth..

Most of them are in the rear differential

2015 hisun500 utv

Are you sure it's the rear end & not the belt? I know they do have an issue with the bolt are nut coming loose on the yoke causing issues on deceleration jamming the pinion gear into the planetary gear.

I know there are 2 styles of ignition switch. But they both are known to get water inside then & get corroded. You can pull the switch & take them apart & clean the connection & see if that cures your problem.

Thanks for the prompt response, I cleaned and check the wires and still not turning off, so I changed the ignition thinking that would solve the problem but it’s not. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciate

Have you taken a look at the clutches & the belt. I would point my finger there first.

A clogged crankcase vent /pvc can definitely cause the engine to smoke because it's not letting the pressure from the crank case escape & it can cause blowby. Ivwould pull the hose off the crank case vent & start it up & see if that cures your problem but I'm going to say you're probably going to need a new topend most likely.

Its definitely a really good possibility. You might be able to just take yours apart & clean it.

How can I buy OBD port for odes 1000cc?​@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394

Try messaging Terry, norwestsuspension.com He has a program for a laptop & sells the cable too. If he can help leave another comment & I'll see what else i can do

Those 4x4 actuator motors go bad all the time.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I replaced the actuator with a brand new one. It just clicks the solenoid. Replaced the solenoid and still just clicks? Thanks for the reply

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Any thoughts?

Ok so if you remove the actuator & press the button, do you see is operating correctly? I have seen the fork on the inside of the diff break are bend & not let it go into 4x4

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 It won’t engage both out and in the diff. It doesn’t show anything on the display either

That will be one I can't answer. I think some guys have done 30in but there is a Odes owners group on Facebook you can join & I know a lot of guys will be able to tell you what they have put on theirs.

The only way to change what they call dwell time( how long the injector stays open) is to get the Hud hacker hardware from norwestsuspension.com then you can do all kinds of mods to your ecu

Hey guys, I'm surprised we don't have dedicated forums for Odes, Massimo etc...would be so much easier to exchange information and service how-to knowledge.

There are a few of them on Facebook for both the Odes & Massimo/ HiSun units. Also Scooterspowersports.com has free downloads if service manual for the odes & motorcycledoctor.com has some great information with fee downloads. I have worked with both companies for years now.

Thanks for letting me know, I have looked around, and realized my Massimo has CFmoto 1000 engine and Bosch ecu...perhaps you have similar experience with that setup?

You can't tighten that spring. Just make sure you have the secondary clutch all the way compressed again after taking the belt off. You should be able to get it out.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I did a little more research and people online said to push the engine over a little with a piece of 2x4 lumber and that worked to move it just a tiny bit to allow the clutch to slide off the shaft.

Awesome. Glad you got it out. If your replacing the wet clutch you might as well to the wet clutch drum & the one way bearing since you are already there

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 I did, I bought the kit and replaced it all at the same time. I also added the slugs since it was a pretty easy process.

My wet clutch looked okay but the wet clutch housing drum was super worn. It had some pretty crazy ridges worn into it.

I would start off by doing an ECU reset. That will help with getting the ECU back to what should be a factory setting. Try that first & let me know & we will go from there

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 Thanks Cyle… you the man! Is the reset procedure the same as the others in your videos? Press throttle,start, keep pressing for 3 seconds, shut off, then restart?

Shoot me an email @ Limitlesspowersports78@gmail.com & I'll send you the process

Sorry for the last response. Didn't see this comment. So as far as the heat goes all the odes have this issue. I put an acoustic heat barrier under all the housing around the motor. Also a lot of guys will put another fan pointing to the back from the front on a toggle switch so blow cool air through the engine tunnel. When it comes to the ignition switch it sounds like you may have a short to ground issue somewhere in the harness. I would check the black 9 pin connector that connects the main wiring harness to the engine harness. Also I'm not sure when you say loud noise from the motor what you're exactly talking about. It's it when driving you get a really high pitch wine? If that's it then it's a bearing in the transmission on the big pinion gear.

Awesome, just covered all as you did for the heat problem and for reducing the noise on the cab, I relocated the air filter under the hood on front. Thanks again for your advice

Yeah relocating that air filter under the hood makes a huge difference too. Did you ever figure out the issue with the ignition switch?

Those are very hard to get parts for & the front diff bow out & then they don't want to idle very well all the time. 4k is a lot for that thing. I think I doldrums them for about 7 new back in 2018

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 That's what I thought too. I saw brand new they were selling for about 7,999. I'm out. Thanks

Is it like cutting in & out? If so my guess you be the reverse speed controller. I know you're driving forward but they can cause that issue. But I would definitely check to make sure that non of the connectors are loose are that non of the wires are melted are pinched.

A lot of people are just bypassing the wiring harness & extending the stator wires so they can just run the wiring directly from the stator & pug into the reg/rec. Did you check the charging voltage at the battery & the ac voltage on all 3 legs of the stator & ohms test it too? I have seen new stators that bad from the factory. You could also have a break in the harness itself.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 So the stator was burned there is build up on the fly wheel could that be an issue?. I will go back do those test and get back to you.

When you give it gas can you feel the pedal return back under your foot? It's a possibility that the throttle positions sensor is stuck wide open are the Iac motor is stuck wide open too. I would take the intake off & look inside your throttle body to make sure the butterfly is returning all the way. But you would need to plug a scanner into it to see where the TPS is set at.

When you say no fuel, do you mean no fuel pump coming on? Check all you power & ground wires take sure they are not corroded. Then check to see if you have power running to your fuel pump & spark plug coils. I could be just a relay going bad are it could be the 9 pin connector getting corroded also

Does your odes have eps? If so I have had them start to go out & pull in either direction. Also check the toe in & out of the front end

I believe your odb2 needs to be able read Delphi not 100% sure because I've always had the scan tool.

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 i sent an email about getting a manual for this machine. Checking if you received it

The ECU fuse. I would check the white 9 pin connector. They get corroded & cause that issue. Also check the ecu pugs to make sure they are clean along with the ecu it's self..what year 800 do you have? Might have a wring diagram for it

@@limitlesspowersportsservic3394 it is made in 2011. hisun hs800 ATV i have gone over all connectors and no corrosion anywhere. when the fault was current it would blow the fuse when ecu was either plugged in or unplugged. but any time i try to disconnect parts to see if i can locate the short, the short has gone away. the dead short on the ecu fuse line will just randomly show itself and then go away. i pulled the loom to see if i could find short to frame but it all looks good. i am now hoping it might be one of the parts that connects to the loom that may be faulty but hard to find it when the fault is not currently present.

It's definitely a part that connects to the harness that is grounded out internally. Now does it only pop the fuse when the unit gets hot are just at random times when you just turn the key on & not run it?

I removed the plastics and had a fuse tester connected instead of the fuse. I wiggled the harness and checked all connectors. Now it has not done it again. But now I have a escalated problem of a starter kickback it is igniting to early as I am cranking it. When cold it starts out running on one cyl but slowly adds the other. Takes about 20 sec to be fully running on both. I did check the timing on the chain and cams. It is correct. Checked valve clearance it is correct. Changed out crank sensor. No change. Now I have ordered new Spark plugs Ignition coils Thermostat Code reader I'm guessing it is best to wait for the code reader so I can see what live data is showing me.

Hey budd I hav a 2017 800 Colman and it will crank a run. But then if u kill it after driving it. It leaves u stuck it won’t crank. U hav ta come bak to it 5 or 6 hrs later to get it to crank Wat could b my issues

Lol you hit the nail right on the head for sure with that comment.