Is it worth the cost of a clone chainsaw? Do the clone saws really make the same type of power? we will find out today. For more product and service info please visit the website worksaws.com/c...
I have a G444. I hate to admit it, but it’s a freaking monster. That saw starts right up, and cuts through logs like butter. I think for the guy who uses a saw a few times a year, they’re hard to beat. If I was a Professional Arborist or Faller, I’d go Stihl or Husky. But for me, the Blue saw works fine.
I Thank you JOE!! Im gonna get the g366 to play with - you twisted my arm! great comparison and related mods!! GO JOE!! UPDATE!!- 1-22-24 got my saw and can't wait to mod it out.
Excellent series Joe! I've enjoyed your content since the first video but you have really stepped it up and I'm really liking it. Best saw channel on the RU-vids. By far.
I have a stock G288 and it is great when I need a big saw but it doesnt get much use. Maybe have 30 tanks through it but I use it a lot for milling. It is also a good buy because they are cheaper then a blown up oem of the same saw. Most cases Id recommend a used oem over a clone but for this case I think I made the correct choice. Got a foot of snow here last night in Ont Canada, Cheers
I've seen very little difference between aftermarket and OEM I run both as a professional arborist and couldn't tell you how much better one is vs. the other
I must say I find anything you do interesting. But as a physicist I love learning and refining my knowledge. You kinda have a saw building university corse going here and I really enjoy watching and learning. I have been tweaking and messing with saws since I was a kid. I went and started porting and messing with pipes for about 5 years. I don’t have a fancy dyno but I use a fish scale and a tach just to get a rough feel for gains. I love watching you for your precision and your consistency in your method very scientific. Been piddling with the clones as test beds. I completely agree with where you head for good work saws. Boost the power in the stock rpm range as much as possible. I hate heat and usually tune the saws I port and play with on head temp on a hard long cut. 300-350 degrees is my safe spot. Be interesting to see how much heat the different mods make with an optimum carb tune on the dyno now you have your new toy.
For me at least it isn't about power or longevity. China basically dominates everything we buy as it is. Seldom do we have a choice in it. With saws we do have a choice. I prefer not to support the PRC as much as possible. I appreciate your videos though. Keep up the good work.
@@vinzer8808it will eventually cause oem to go up in price because Chinese makes crap. You'll end up having to pay for quality over performance and because of Chinese crap they'll justify the cost difference by advertising quality. We need to get away from China period. I'm so sick of the crap they produce and the fact that unless we want to pay 2-3 times more for non China made stuff, we have no other choices.
Really enjoying the series. If I were making money with a saw O.E.M. would be the way to go. As it is I only cut firewood for my shop. So it’s about expense, more than anything else. I can wear out several of the clones before I spend the money of an original. With the clones I am able to experiment with the modifications you and others do, without breaking the bank. Really impressed with the gains and power output brought by simple modifications to both.
This has been one of my favorite things to watch! As someone who tinkers with everything it’s cool seeing the incremental gains that you’d probably never notice without a dyno!
Believe me owning a small fleet of chainsaws and other small enhine 2T equipment, I sometimes really hate OEM parts prices and new saw/ope prices. I buy them because they work and last many times longer than AM stuff and give u way less grief. Different I suppose if u had one or two saws one used for occaisional fitewood. Power is important but quality and longevity for me matter way more.
Great testing Joe, I def can say the clone saws have came a long ways in the last 2 or 3 years. 👍🏻 they will never be oem quality for costs reasons, but for what they are they are great and reasonably priced.
This is a great series. Gasket matching and minimal port cleanup next. Also note timing numbers stock 361 vs blue as stock seems to carry power out farther.
Its awesome content joe I've played around with some saws and buy you taking the time to put out video of step by step mod and dyno proof Is awesome thank you 😊
Yes, I am enjoying this test comparison. It would be interesting to see if the blue saw would make some gains with an OEM ignition and flywheel, increased RPM and better timing. That MS361 looks to have a fair amount of hours on it, based on the amount of wear on the case. It is still putting out good power though. Is it running the original cylinder, piston, and rings to that saw? What has your experience been like tuning the saw, starts and restarts and keeping a tune with the big carb vs the stock one? Filtration and Flippy Caps have been my only issues with the Stihl MS361 in a production environment. Studying a progressive build like this on a Stihl MS462 or 500i would be very interesting. 👍
This content is brilliant. I bought one of these saws a few months ago, before you were making these videos, so when I saw you doing this, I've been watching intently to see where you're going with the modifications. I lucked out really! By the way, I'm watching all the way from Tasmania in Australia. Our hard woods are pretty brutal on consumables, so I'd only ever do basic modifications to make sure the saw ran for as long as possible. I've also got a 500i, so if you do something different, how about something like that saw. Cheers
Be interested to see the clone with the genuine coil , might help it run out maybe ? Genuine saw has way more area under the curve up top in the rpm , yes the peaks match but high rpm genuine kills it .
ignition module in my ms 361 quit. I got talked into buying an ebay module, only $15. Extremely hard starting. Ran ok once I got it running. They sent me a second module. same story. I bought a Stihl module. $125. Starts easy, runs strong. Worth every cent. I wasted $15 on the cloned parts.
I have a ported 550xp and that suffices for all of my current needs, but if I ever need a bigger saw in the future, I will get a clone 372xp and leave it stock or maybe just mod the muffler. Well, unless I find myself swimming in cash, then it'll be a name brand of whatever current tech is. Maybe they'll have electric saws with fusion generators on board. Comes with a sealed lifetime uranium pellet in there.
Just getting into porting and playing around with saws. The clones are just so much cheaper to play around with, then tranafer that into oem saws helps the wallet.
I have two strange ideas for you, put a battery powered blower on the carburetor, the second put a valve on the head, just for exhaust. like the 4 strokes.
QUESTION: You informed us that it is important to make @10-second dyno runs for consistency. Is the 10-second timeframe important (and the theory of why it is) or is it just important to have consistent run-lengths (such as all of them being 25 seconds or all being 8 seconds)? Thanks for your consideration.
The 10 second is easy to repeat, and just long enough any stored inertia is all applied the same run after run. Much longer it is adding all sorts of extra heat and friction into the run etc. 10 seconds is just wat I settled on, easy to duplicate and things dont get excessively hot while loading down. As long as I stay in the 9-11 second range things stay very consistent
@@dynojoemods2764 Thanks so much; never thought about stored-inertia! Thought maybe it was the data-acquisition software/spreadsheet cells or the refresh rate of the data inputs. Hadn't considered heat, possibility of chain not oiling from saw well, etc... Thanks for taking time to reply.
The only hyway cylinder I have used was the 52mm 064 that I was porting for a specific class. This 366 has all been on the supplied cylinder then the farmertec big bore.
I dont see anyone else that can measure performance gains from each small change. Yes we can do timed cuts in wood but realistically thats not going to measure small gains with any accuracy. A dyno gets rid of all the 'seat of the pants' bullshit - has to be a good thing.
