I would like to see a follow-up video on whether or not the saw was repaired or replaced under warranty, etc. Thank you. Keep em coming. Enjoy your videos.
I would use grease myself. It is messy but it cleans up and keeps fines out of the engine. If a little gets sucked in it’s no big deal unlike silicone.
Both big end and small ends of the connecting rod are blue. There is a bright blue band on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin, piston pin). This blue colouration is due to pronounced overheating and should never normally happen if all is right with the saw. Where you show the big end bearing locking up, you can see that there is a gap in the big end bearing cage on the right. The cage is breaking up. When looking from the right hand side and trying to turn the crank, I think that you can see that the left hand main bearing also has a broken bearing cage - the spacing of the balls does not seem to be regular. Both these cages are steel. On older, poorly maintained saws, especially if repeatedly thrashed with a blunt chain, you can get impacted fine sawdust pushed in past the lips of the left hand oil seal (behind the generator rotor). This gets through into the bearing and accellerates wear, causing the cage to fail or partially fail. Debris from this failure (bits of cage) gets through into the crank case and can into the big end and even (via the transfer ports) into the combustion chamber. I think there are signs of metallic debris being in the squish band around the outside of the piston top leaving little craters in this part of the piston crown. Throughout this process, air increasingly gets past the main bearing oil seal and the saw runs lean, exacerbating overheating. I have seen bearings embedded in the top of the piston and on one occasion (an MS261) a perfect half ball sitting on top of the piston, the ball from the bearing having been cracked in two. Popping the generator rotor off would show if the failure of this seal (and main bearing) is the root cause. Keeping chains sharp at all times prolongs saw life. Thanks for posting - nice vid.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I remember when I was 13 many many years ago I was told the same thing, that my blue crank needed replaced. Glad I had the clymer manual and kindly declined.
I think your right! The chain was dull & they kept using it, that would probably account for all the fine dust that was all over it. Interesting video!
I hate to see that happen to any good piece of equipment. Thats why I do a lot of maintenance on all our equipment. A dull chain is so easy to fix its really sad. Good video Jeremy!!
It happens sometimes, I recently changed both crank shaft end bearings on Stihl TS 410 stone saw that was only 6 months old. Your saw looks like a pro model, price up a new crank and bearings and do it yourself if it's cost affective over buying a new saw. Get that girl running again.
Great details on your video and easy to understand you great job. We were seeing this kind of failure a lot with these newer strato engines basically you're opening up a butterfly introducing straight air which sends the crank to lean condition this requires Great oil not just good oil. And as you know it's very hard to get customers not to use Husqvarna or still mix oil in their power saws and both are a okay or good oil just not excellent and these type of Saw engines require excellent mix oil in order to get them to last. The customers I was able to convince to switch have not had bearing failures since. So I think it's a combination of a few things in your situation probably dull chain maybe eating some fines possibly mix oil. however we have all seen old saws that have ate fines for years and still no crank failure. It's really hard to tell but you did the right thing did a leak test first before tearing anything apart just to rule that out. On my end professional logger customers rarely run dull chain but they were still wiping out the crank bearings , rod and wristpin on OEM oil but only with the strato engines the standard engines were not going bad.
Had the connecting rod bend on a BG 56c blower. This was 2 years old with looks to be light wear with disassembly. Connecting rod is flat plate without any rib/structure design. Contacted Stihl to inquire if rods go through any tempering/strengthen process and was told they do, and any chances of a defect was very light. They offered a comment; "lower is in a cage and cannot lock like a brush trimmer. Compression gets a "little" higher. Any comment would be appreciated.
My Farmertec g660 just did this only used for 1 week, waiting to see if they replace it, i did not do anything forceful with the saw and used the correct oil mix, i used a 36" bar and full chisel chain which they say its good for
My 362 also failed the same way. I am baffled as to why. My chain wasn't dull. I was working it hard when it seized. I am going to see if I can rebuild it. It is an $800 machine.
I like to run about one tablespoon of marvel mystery oil in addition to the usual stihl 2 cycle oil. Just a little extra insurance & it hasn't fowled any plugs yet. I've been doing that for quite a while.
I think you diagnosed this correctly. But it is probably not the crank's fault. The combination of a dull chain, fine sawdust all over, poor air filter and severely over stressing the engine for a long time would have built up heat. Check out the discouloration on the vrist pin. And perhaps that fresh air flushing system kept the piston cooler so that it did not seize up first.
He could have chunked a circlip from the piston, always on the intake side. Those nylon cage bearings are always a problem. It could have chunked a bearing and it got under the crank. I agree with you about getting “fines” into the engine on just about any saw. However Husqvarna XTorq engines are prone to bearing failures more than the old XP designs were, as are the new engines with Strato carbs.
The fine saw dust could be from a dull chain. Which then would make the saw work harder for cuts. Definitely overheated. I’d buy a meteor crank/rod/piston kit for under $100 and it should work like new again.
Every sr 430 ( backpack sprayer) that I have ever looked at has had issues with main bearing failing. Those unit are made in Brazil so I would have to imagine they got a real bad batch of bearings. I have literally installed short blocks under warranty and units come back in 6 months with same main bearing failures it’s ridiculous.
Jeremy, do you have the Stihl 0000-890-1701 Pressure/Vac test kit? I know you have to buy adapters for some of the newer saws. I just make them out of scrap metal. Good Vid. That carcass is worth $50 on Fleabay!
I working on a ms 210 it didn't overheat fuel is mixed correctly, came in with a choppy hard to pull issue found the bearings in amuck in a bad mess ,kinda thinking its a mfg bad parts issue there was not any apparent reason for that bad a failure!
As filthy as that saw was it is no wonder that something failed. Saw dust and oil hold heat, which is why you need to keep a saw as clean as possible. I blow out my saw after each use and give them a deep cleaning once a year. I see saws all the time that need to apply for a crop allotment from USDA because they are so filthy. I won’t say you can eat off my saws but pretty close.
Just my opinion only. One in 5, 000 assembly line defect. Or the crankshaft and bearing assembly wasn't properly aligned. Respectively I'm not buying the sawdust theory.
I have took two of these saws apart in the last 3 months both had failed rod bearings to the point were they locked the motor up and damaged the bottom of the crank case.
Good video ! What I think happened. Usually big end rod bearings turn blue and fail because the high jet on the carb is turned in and let the engine over rev. Or they could have been cutting soft rotten wood judging by the fine dust and the engine RPMS would be at max for long periods of time. But a dull chain could burn up an engine but usually the clutch turns blue and melt the plastic bearing cages.
The rod looks discolored pretty bad. I would say it got a tad bit warm. Dull chain and trying to run the saw wide open in a big chunk of OAK will do this... He cooked that saw with Ignorance.
Replace with 562 XP and run good oil at 40:1. Problem solved! I have a 362 and it just doesn’t seem seem to have the “oomph” the 562 does. I’m not being negative towards Stijl. I own many of their products.
I’m not a Stihl guy but I don’t understand why the 362 doesn’t compete with the 562 Husky. The 462 is the saw for the 70 cc class and pretty much beats anything on power. Stihl seems to be concerned more with weight than durability right now.
To have so much shit behind the air filter, it's not normal, I've had one since 2010, I've never seen it, but I blow it every day. The origin of the expensive fault is there.
