Prop tip: If you have a hot air gun in your workshop, it's the best way for removing things like those inserts in the screwdriver handle or the nylon inserts from locking nuts if you're trying to make a spindle mounted glue block
Hi Sam, another worthwhile, informative video. I have noticed on the Tube recently, a few similar handle projects - everyone seems to turn the tenon undersize and glue it in place. I was taught (about 40yrs ago in England) by an old blacksmith to keep the tenon slightly oversize and heat the ferule, drive it on and then quench it; just like banding wooden wheels and just as effective! I've never had had one come loose yet. Keep up the good work, I always look forward to your videos Cheers, Paul
Paul That is really interesting. That might have been done at a time when glues were not easy to get. It is always fun to see how the old timers did things. I might just try that. But you would have to size it just right, I suppose. Thanks for the history..... Sam
You can pick up one of these screwdrivers (same innards, slightly different handle) for $1.99 at Harbor Freight. Just grabbed 3 yesterday. Now just gotta find some ferrules.
I just received a coupon for these screwdrivers at HF for $.75 each! I ended up getting six. I used a bit of copper pipe for the ferrule. One down five to go. First one, I offset too much so the handle was too thin for my liking. Next ones will be better. Great video!
Very enjoyable and informative video Sam, great skew control also. Good point about the unsupported wood cut. The handle ended up really nice my friend, lovely addition of the off center accent. Take care Mike
Mike Thanks for your kind comments. I am still learning how to deal with the skew. Just when I think she is under control, she bucks. I am still not ready to do a proper video on the skew. The first handle failed to impress me. Luckily I had another drew drive to turn and showcase. Making a video that goes well in all aspects but the actually piece you turn requires some fancy editing. I am getting good at editing haha. Have a good day. Sam
Found a way to save the handle. Just drill a couple of small holes in the top end of the handle right next to the steel nut ---just enough so you can grab the nut out with needle nose pliers. Then heat up the nut with a heat gun until you are able to pull out the nut! Works like a charm and I used the handles for push sticks by turning down some pine to slip into the plastic handle. I just jam fit mine so I could replace them as they get dinged up.
+Terry Ellis I never would have thought to re-use the handle I was taking out to replace. But what a great idea. There must be lots of uses for them. Thanks Sam
+WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thanks Sam I have to go watch your skew sharpening video as my skew is not working well for me and I am anxious to pick up hints on how to get a convex grind done properly on it. Hopefully then I wont be avoiding the skew so much then! :)
WYOMINGWOODTURNER I just saw this comment again and wanted to add.......I would do more between centers next time and start with a longer piece of wood. I needed to do a prototype. The second one I did came out better.
Nice ! … 08:50 the moisture (or what's left) of the wood is good enough for the polyurethan glue to cure. It is a very useful glue on boats (always had a small amount on my boat) and in wet environment such as construction work in fall and winter … Less in the shop. But then again it is excellent with a good holding power in most (all) circumstances and more straightforward than epoxy as it is not a two part glue. It is also very forgiving because as it expands it gets into the small cavities left by an imperfect job (on a mortise an tenon, for instance). On my wooden boat I also used it as a sort of protective "varnish" on a dent (size of a fist) on the hull : I simply diluted polyurethane glue with acetone to make it more fluid and covered the dent with the mix : held perfect for the whole season (5 months !) and I made a definitive repair during the winter only. Great glue ! Should be in any workshop. The only con : the container has to be airtight, otherwise moisture will start a curing reaction !…
Very nice Sam, it's much better than that plastic crap! I love the idea of the off centring, but it would have been nice to see an end view of the final shape of the bottom end. Happy 2017 turning from the UK!
I love how you are covered in sawdust in this video. :) It makes me happy. I'm always COVERED when I'm in the shop. :) Cool project, too! I have one of those, I'm gonna have to give that a try. Always enjoy your videos, keep 'em coming.
Brook The sawdust? Yea I have given up on my appearance. I need to wear a smock but it is too hot. I really didn't notice till I saw the playback. Thanks for watching Sam
Really nice. I enjoy this project very much! Makes such a nice tool and great gift for someone! I have made them but have not done the off center part. So that will be next! Fun video to watch and beautiful end product! Chris
Mark B there are a few benefits. First the non round handle fits better in your hand. Second, it gives you better grip, as the round handle will turn, especially if it’s smooth and/or you are wearing smooth gloves. Third, it won’t roll off a table or bench.
Great video, I really did think the handle would have more of a square profile to it. I have so many questions regarding the skew chisel (in relation to smoothing out the outside of bowl, not spindle turning) and about the shellac, but I guess this is not the place for these, so maybe on the next video, thanks for the upload!
Please ask away The skew chisel is really a challenge. I watched a lot of videos on the skew chisel. And still do. It is a tool not seen too much at turning symposiums. Find some soft wood to practice with. I see you mentioned using a skew on the outside of a bowl. You should NOT do that. The skew chisel is really for spindle work only. You could hold it horizontally to use as a scraper. But that is not the right tool for that. A skew chisel on cross-grain will cause a dangerous catch. Please ask more specific questions. Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER Thank you for you response. Of course I won't use a skew on a bowl, I learned it the hard way with the first bowl I tried to make, and man ho man was that a hard hit I got from the tool trying to get where it does not belong... but I'm over that now, my biff, I guess, is that when I'm turning bowl, it doesn't matter of my bowl gouge is super sharp and I ride the bevel (although it does help) or I scrape the bowl up and down, in and out, I always, but always, end up with some tear out that I need to sand, and as a person of great faith in finding the best way to do something out of laziness, I thought there could be a technique I'm missing for turning the bowl smooth, like using a skew while spindle turning. My second question is about the shellac. Until a while ago I've always finished my turning only with mineral oil, simply because that was what I was learning via youtube videos, but as my viewing got more intense, and broad, I started finishing with pure hard bees wax, friction melting it in, which works great, but since I love turning usable things and not only decorative things, I fear the wax finish will simply not be good enough for something you handle and use (a beer stein would be a good example, the wax will make it water proof, but repeated cleaning and wiping will take the wax off eventually, I presume...), so now, finally, I got my hands on some premixed shellac (in Italy it's called Gommalacca), and I was wondering about the use of it, relating to food safety and general use, since I've seen videos of people using it as a finish, but some use it only as a sealer, then sand it and apply a different finish (poly plastics or different). I would love to know your take about shellac and where and for what you would use it in respect to other finishes. I'm sorry about the long explanation and questions, I hope it will not deter you from answering :)
Robert That seems an awful lot for the screw drivers. We can get them from Harbor freight or places online for as little as two or $3. well it's a good little project anyway. I demonstrated up in Lethbridge last summer. it was a twelve are drive. Nice people and hey very nice club. I had a good time thanks for watching Sam
Cheapest way: Put a small common electronics soldering iron to the metal insert. It will get hot and melt the surrounding plastic. It then can be pulled away in seconds, effortlessly.
Great video Sam. As a remodeler, it would be nice to have some custom fit on my tools. Any thoughts on the Ash versus the other wood. I have a bunch of it that would be perfect for this project. Thanks for sharing. Fred
Fred Th bubinga I used was just a piece with a size that worked. I would go with the Ash every time especially for something you will actually use. There is nothing more durable. Sam
Another great project Sam. I do have a question for you though. What is with the off center holes on each side? Why bother? What is the difference as opposed to center? I guess thats three questions.
If you go to 16:29 in the video I show the end of the handle. The center hole is for basic turning and getting the handle round. I also do some sanding here. When I go to the off-center holes sanding the center position is difficult. I turn a bit at each off-center position. This gives the handle some shape beyond just round. It provides a better grip to the handle. You can't see it very well but you can feel it. Does that answer you question? Sam
Marc This is an old technique used to make a handle easier to hold. It created a shape that you could grip better. It is difficult to see the shape but you can really feel it. When I did the first one, I had the off-center marks about 1/8 inch off the true center. This was actually too much. On the second one I made the off center point at 1/16 of an inch. This was better. Sam
If the handle is really in poor shape you could replace it, But I would try to restore it and keep it original. Love to see photos.....send to samandcheryle@gmail.com
This is very safe. Turning a spindle off center is a good place to start and to practice. Just make another center point on one end- very close to the try center. Just don't turn too fast until you are comfortable with it. But a little more speed will give you a better cut and surface. Sam
Billy Yes I have made several of these for gifts. As a really nice project. Yes I should have a handle on my file. Ironic, since I'm making a handle for another tool. Thanks, Sam
