OFF GRID SOLAR 24 Volt 1 Year Review + UPGRADES w/ LiTime Lithium Battery 

Growatt high frequency, transformerless inverters are great for powering resistive loads and small electronics but it won't last very long powering inductive loads like power tools, refrigerators, motors, AC units, compressors or microwave ovens. High frequency inverters like these were never designed for powering high surge loads. You may get lucky and this inverter might start a few of these inductive loads when the inverter is new, but as the inverter ages, 1 1/2 to 2 years down the road, high frequency inverters will fail sooner, rather than later with continuous use with inductive loads. I've repaired inverters for a living for the past 23 years and one thing that I've learned is that the surge current that's generated by these inductive loads will damage the MOSFETs (metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistors) in this inverter and will basically brick the inverter because the hourly shop rates for troubleshooting, testing and replacing all those MOSFETs typically will exceed the value of the inverter. It would be more cost effective to simply replace a failed high frequency inverter. A much better choice is one of Growatt's low frequency transformer-based inverters. You'll be much happier 10 years down the road when your Growatt low frequency inverter is still running like a top..

I had plenty of insults ready for this guy about his lack of solar knowledge, and then as I was watching him rewire the panels I realized my panels which have been "temporarily" set up for years still are not grounded, and his are. So yeah. Subscribed because why not.

I'm not sure what parameters you set for the battery but they should be: Charge Target: 28.4V Absorption Target: 28.4V (if separate from charge target) Absorption Time: 1 to 2 hours Float Voltage: 27.0V Inverter low voltage cutoff should be set to 24V. No lower than 24V. The reasons for the above values are: * Charge a 24V LiFePO4 battery to 3.55V/cell (28.4V), which is well above the voltage needed to fully charge it, above the BMS balance start voltage (typically 3.50V/cell), and below the BMS cut-off voltage of 3.65V. There is very little wiggle room here because you don't want charging to be cut-off by the BMS repeatedly as that will put strain on the BMS's MOSFETs, and you also don't want the BMS to be constantly hitting a cell voltage limit and shutting down charging either because that puts unnecessary stress on the cells. * Absorption target same as charge target. Absorption time 1-2 hours. This is primarily to give the battery time to balance its cells. The current tail for your setup is probably less than 30 minutes, but the BMS built into the batteries needs time to balance the cells. * Float voltage: 27.0V. This is roughly 3.375V/cell, which is basically the "load support" level for the battery. If the battery is fully charged, it will naturally drop down to roughly this voltage and remain at 100% SOC. So when the battery is fully charged and solar is still available, setting the float here allows the solar to run the house or augment the battery while solar is available without stressing or draining the battery. * Inverter (Growatt) should be set to turn off the AC at battery voltages below 24V (roughly 3V/cell). This will be roughly 5% SOC or lower and also ensures that the battery has enough energy left in it to keep the BMS alive, and also hopefully keep the Growatt alive in standby mode until solar comes up the next day. Avoiding an actual shutdown allows the system to recover itself automatically when solar comes up the next day. Someone else pointed out that the two batteries should be roughly the same SOC when connecting them in parallel. Well, they should at least be roughly the same voltage, such that you don't get a lot of amps between batteries when you parallel them. The SOC for the two batteries will synchronize automatically over one or two full charges. The Growatt can't tell how many batteries you have without comms, and these batteries don't have comms. -Matt

Your batteries dont have low temp charge protection. If the did, they would reset automatically. The reason you had to " wake them up" with an external source was because the internal BMS had shut down due to low state of charge. Once this happens they will not function until the voltage is brought up to the required level. Many charge controllers will not charge into a "dead" battery which is why you needed a different charging source other than the solar thru your inverter.

Bad move, you cut off solar power first, then battery. RTFM.

Hi! Great video Can you tell me what gauge you use from.batt to controller? And also gauge to join the batteries together?

You should change the routing of your battery leads. The positive and negative cables should not cross each other at all. If the cables overheat they could short out and start a fire.

Great video 📹. Will you wrap the solar wires so they are not chewed up by animals?

I don't know you solar system exactly. But if your max power draw from the battery is the inverter at 3000w the 250a fuse is NOT protecting your system. It is too big if there was a short all the wires would melt and the inverter would be destroyed before the fuse would blow. You need a 125a fuse to protect the system. 25v × 125a = 3000w. Best wishes

Be sure that both batteries are at similar state of charge.. perfererably 100% before connecting in parallel. Let them sit for a day not connected to any load or inverter so they can equalize

(At around 10:00 it looks like you already figured this out so you can disregard my below input other than used prices) You guys have done a great job and thank you for the update. My two cents is this (regarding cloudy days): Quality sed solar panels are easily between 20 - 40 Cents (0.40 US Dollar), why not triple your solar array to help make up for cloudy days? You can play with series vs parallel, vs series-parallel to get the volts and amps to what your Growatt can handle and will like. You have the room, why not add the panels?

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Thank you for your share. I recently installed this precise model and brand of battery into my RV, and it has been nothing short of amazing. The timing is perfect; I think I'll go ahead and order a second one and an inverter to run high-load applications. Thank you! By the way, their official website is usually cheaper than other platforms

Wow, your introduction was fantastic! Thanks to your video, I'm even more convinced that LiTime batteries are great. But I'm curious about your thoughts on their new 12v100ah mini. Will you be releasing more videos about it?

You should add a mini split ,they are very efficient, I run 2 on my Bluetti with ease

I've been consistently using Litime's batteries and find them to be great value for money. They seem to have a new 12v 100ah mini out - have you tried it yet? What do you think of its performance?

Warning -Off grid Inverters These off grid inverters are Ip20 not Ip68 ABB uno on grid inverters is ip68 Last 6 rs working fine. ES5000 off grid inverters are Not dust protected Must be installed 50mm away from the wall With flysreen netting enclosure with Aluminum or wooden frame Does not compatible with our environment in Sri Lanka. It is humid and if not, that's protected without an dust proof enclosure. And if you cannot look after them well in a proper environment don't go for it and being f***** twice with error number two(heat) and Sri Lanka. We don't have reliable service personnel with whom you have to deal believe with of whatever they say so but they avoid of offgrid inverters at all. If you need as a backup, not for 24 hours. Use in a Dusty humid environment. This is my warning because I am being f***** twice now. Finally for having a off grid inverter during power cuts time,I have paid a fortune.

That controller / inverter must be really tough to not burn up after being over input for so long.

I’m hoping you will contact together at the same voltage?

Thank you for the video and I even thank the people who commented here, I learned a lot for two sides

Is your Frig 120VAC or is it 12 or 24 vold DC? We have a gigantic deep freezer (Amish-made) that runs off 12 or 24 VDC (we run it at 25 VDC) and have been running it for three years. It works perfectly with 2K Watts of solar in the USA southwest year round.

Hey, instead of heat tape how about a sand battery? Hookup a couple 100 watt panels to a 24v or 12v water heater element mounted in a big kettle. Use the right wire to prevent any issues the setup should be fireproof.. Keep that pot under the cabin to create a ambient temp on cold days. I am assuming the pipes are under the cabin and you can skirt and insulate the crawlspace too. Should do the same thing and take a load off the main system. There are a few examples of sand batteries on RU-vid.

I just hope you charged both batteries at the same voltage level, if not the lower one got a 1000 amper charge from the other one, they balanceing in paralel, and if there is a different chargeing state that can couse problems.

Na... the battery shut down due to low voltage and you woke it up with the external charge

What all can you run simultaneously with only 3000watts?

What unbelievable video great content Marty Albuquerque NM - High Desert Country

Thanks for ANOTHER great video! Is that battery UL approved? Thanks

wow you disconnected the battery. before disconnecting the solar panels .. that's cool I didn't know you can do that with growatt

Did you test the voltage of both batteries to make sure they are equal before hooking them up? I thought this was recommended to ensure proper leveling.

I dont think yours supposed to just connect a new battery to an existing system. I think you are to charge the new battery to what your connected batteries voltage is otherwise they may never balance out

I wouldn't connect them in parallel. I would connect each to the busbars you have. That way it draws evenly from each battery. if you do parallel (daisy chain) the load goes through both which lowers your cycles and raises the C rating.

Great you need to insulate pipes and battery room otherwise great video ✔️🖖

What size are you battery cables and cables to Growatt? Ty

Didn't try to match the voltage of the batteries before putting them in parallel? Might have been a lot of current flowing into the new battery if the old one was fully charged. They have to ship those batteries at a storage charge. Typically less than 50%. The current in-rush could have tripped the BMS on the new battery.

Always a great educational video 👍

Awesome upgrades.

We bought 4 four 12v 300 amp Litime batteries and they were faulty from the get go. It has been a struggle to get our money since they only want to refund through Paypal instead of our business account. I am not impressed with Litime. I ended up building my own battery bank with A grade 3.2v cells from china. Cost about 1/2 the price.

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turn off inverter and wear safety glasses when working on batteries

May try looking at a diesel heater for keeping things warm. Minimal 12 volt draw, and fuel consumption is miniscule for the amount of heat generated. You'd have to get a step-down converter, of course, but you've already made accommodations for that in your build.

Why may mppt wont charging may battery 25.6v 200ah lifepo4 under 27.7volt,battery shut off under haier voltage,sorry to may bad engles ridinig

Noob here, about to pull the trigger on an All-In-One 24V system, just debating which one! I'm trying to understand if this Growatt is capable of charging your battery bank when you start up your generator (shore power) or not? You mentioned the low-temp shutoff for the battery when you were away and had to trickle charge the battery until it revived itself... I was thinking to myself, why not just plug into shore power and the Growwatt will charge it?" So I'm assuming the Growwatt unit is NOT a charger for the battery bank. I've watched your video with the initial Growatt install and at one point you describe being able to use shore power to top off the batteries when you have days/periods of no sun, so I'm just hoping you can clear up my confusion. Thank-you for the videos!

have you considered having a wind turbine?

Looks like you have the risin 335w panels from sabtan lol. I have the same panels lol. Your system is just like mine but i have a mpp solar inverter charger. I have 6 of these along with 3 smaller panels making up my strings at 113v voc. 3s3p.

how do you shoose the right battery voltage?

12 VOLT CHINESE DEISEL HEATER- BEST DEAL EVER---for heat-- and going 12 volt for all appliances will save power on your bartteries--- its worth paying more for those air conditioners or you get panels to cover the loss of the inverters and stuff.

Saw your video I just have one question , do you know the maximum current capacity of the charge controller. Because I had two of them , think if was 30amp but I was told it's ONLY 13 amp, so be careful

The install looks good. put the batteries in a smaller insulated box with a lid. and leave a LED light running in that box. It will keep them above freezing. They also say Do not mount inverters to wood. Have a look at my insulation i have been working on. I mounted mine onto 10cm fiber cement sheet. that is the only changers i see that would improve your small system.

You should increase the input voltage to 48 volts. Doing that may necessitate the front end electronics of the inverter be changed as well. Doing so will reduce the front end current by half and may give you better inverter efficiency...Just a thought.

I glued a pwm tiny solar charger on the back of a 30w solar panel, crocodile clips and a switch, voila, a battery charger.

Also... a rv furnace sucks down way to much power. Get a freaking minisplit and a diesel heater. You will need a step down for the diesel heater but you will be glad to get a minisplit if you do

Don`t overlap cables please!

Suggestion, it might be a good idea. Just to take your battery with you next time. And enjoy it Anywhere you go.

There are inverters with a wide input range, approximately from 120 to 450 volts. If you had bought them, it would have been better for you

Temperature controlled battery box a thing?

I also run a 24 volt system. But the cables are double the thickness of yours. How is the heat on your cables?

Can you not provide a wiring diagram showing how to connect the inverter to the mains Consumer Unit. There seems to be lots of videos but no one thinks of explaining to the likes of me who wants to use a inverter mppt charger unit but it's nit the cost of buying the unit but the cost of someone doing the connection work that causes the problem. Nice system anyway.

Dude. I remember your honda element video

Where is your fuse or breaker for panels

If you want 12 volts, use a separate panel, battery, and charger. If you use a lead battery, never connect batteries in parallel. Bigger capacities like golf cart battery pairs. 6 volts plus 6 volts = a big 12 volt. I use stubby 100 watt 21.3 volt panels.

Thank you for sharing your experience

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Informative!

amazing your household power grid was still all there after you had left it all up for grabs as you left the property for 2 months, wow...the over voltage was pretty obvieious ,,,lol...glad you got it figured out, still dint seem right

Good Video. Question: How has the critters been with your ground based solar panel setup?