I did the exact same thing when I got my 80 Series 4 years ago. Flushed all fluids (including diffs, transmission etc). Replaced all hoses, belts and the OEM radiator. Then re-packed the wheel bearings and replaced the OEM disc brakes for direct fit heavy duty discs and pads. Followed by a suspension upgrade recently. I've always said that if you look after your vehicle well and regularly have their maintenance done, it does not matter how old they are, they will keep going reliably.
First thing I did when I bought my kettle was overhaul the cooling system. Aftermarket water pump, fan radiator even changed the coolant from green to red.
Can confirm those celfi go kits work awesome! We convinced the boss to put them in all the work utes as we are often remote and in the Ute got full reception but if you walk away from the Ute drops to 1 bar and can’t make calls or watch RU-vid 😂 definitely investing in one for the touring rig.
Considering it has done over 700k kms, what needed to be done isn't that bad. Best part is, after all these refresh parts and service, you should have a fairly reliable and capable 4WD. 👍
When it comes time to get your pump done mate, look up Hastings diesel here in Wauchope, behind the BP servo. Matt is the man when it comes to building any pump and injector combos, he has everything in house, most of the time he'll have every size pump on the shelf ready to go, all boost compensated, then take it next door to momentum 4x4 and get her tuned, Dyno and road tuned.
With the fuel filters, if I'm correct, they're saying that the after market is plumbed in as a secondary filter? If so, that's not how they're supposed to be. The after market filters have a less fine filter element so as to let water coagulate and fall to the clear bowl, the factory filter has really fine element that can actually break water down small enough that it can pass through to the engine. You need that after market filter 1st for water trapment then factory filter second for finer particles.
Good content! I own a kettle and from mid north. definitely going to give this bloke at Port a look because Iv sure got a challenge for him and I like his attitude 👌
Great Video Tyler, been following you for a wee bit now and the value these mechanical episodes bring are priceless. Especially having experts featured like this episode. 4wd can get repetitive sometimes so hope to see more content like this and perhaps some bush mechanics on the track.
A tip for good AC - clean the core on inside of car, I suffered poor AC in my 96 GQ until I found it was blocked with leaves and crap, access from passenger side foot well
Despite not agreeing with "some" of the way things were done it's a great video. Shows pretty much a cooling circuit overhaul on a TD. I own a GU with a TD and have done the above several times. They got lucky with that thermo bolt though. :)
They say GU are stronger because they are bigger but GQs rarely break diffs or axles,it's really for people looking for a wider stance, the brake upgrade is good tho
@ 23 mins, almost shearing that thermostat bolt and resulting in it being left over weekend. FFS, have and use an impact driver for carpentry with adjustable torque setting (ie top range makita)m not just your big mechanics impact rattle guns. Turn torque down, spray penetrant oil and rattle away on lowest setting and increase torque and rattle away again, and again as you go up, feathering and increasing torque. It will remove and save so many seized fasteners that just twisting by hand would have sheered.
Another great clip mate, thanks for sharing. I tell you what though, no gasket on the water pump 🤔🤔 not real keen on that personally. I know what he means too about the windows down in summer with the heater blowing flat out - my Holden Astra got like that recently before I got rid of it. Fingers crossed you have it all sorted and no dramas from now on with overheating. 👍👍
Love your mechanical shop Tyler- these guys are showing and telling you facts about the worn parts as they go and outcome of replacement parts - will not get that honesty from Nee-Saan or Toyota-sun workshops!
If i had a Nissan or when I do, I’d be making the Drive to these mechanics. Sure do know what there talking about & honest. Fix all the shit whilst it’s apart instead of half assin shit. Good job guys
I can only suggest one other item for your cooling overhaul, a proper temperature gauge. The one in the dash can be unreliable or "as seen on TV" an engine guard. I really like the way you include the mechanics comments and advice. Happy cool running mate.
That engine will run nicely now that the cooling system is all up to scratch.. looking forward to seeing how the GQ evolves... May take over the GU...😁🤪,.
its a good idea to close the gap between the radiator and the support panel as a lot of air escapes this way thus making it easier for the fan to draw the air through the core of the radiator .This gap was closed from new when it came out of the factory.
Polly put the kettle on! Well, you buy a 30 year old car, you generally need to budget for a general overhaul/restoration. The beauty of it though, once it is rebuilt, you will have a very reliable, uncomplicated weapon of a 4WD for the next 30 years, as long as you are vigilant with the maintenance. Too early to mention that you should have bought a Landcruiser? Giggles
Yeah FIRST compression test...snorkel and TURBO 40% power gain. EGT... and Because the TD42s have a problem with cooling because the cooling ports between the cylinders are small and block up you need to flush the block. Or take the head off and clean lol. Seriously good buy for your partner. She will love you more if you polish bullbar .kits at bunnings. Grinder pads ebay. .
Blokes who want to run 35" tyres on a GQ get the diffs from a 2.8 litre Patrol which has a different ratio to the 4.2 litre & brings the speedo back into line with the correct speedo readings. It used to be the case that Ford Maveric parts were the same as Nissan ones but, less expensive. I don't know if that is still the case but, worth looking into.
Don’t throw those belts away. Put them in the back for bush spares. Old mate on the thermostat bolt should know to shock the bolt before trying to break them
That's just idiots that think they are brilliant mechanics then blow them up because they are actually clueless. A bit like old mate in the video claiming "you can run 30 pound & it won't blow up". Oh yes it bloody well will. Mine is sitting on 604k, never, ever missed a beat & isn't going to let go anytime soon. Then again, I'm a proper mechanic, not a cowboy with a piece of paper
@@Nick-sd7um Reliability = TD42 Power = LS3 Big Power = Barra I'll never understand people that choose the wrong engine for thier needs. I can't dumb myself down that much 🤙
There is s fuel filter as the diesel goes into the injector pump. You are better to stick to 4.1 diffs and look at a low boost turbo. Even 7 to 10 lb boost makes a huge difference Look at the clearance between the water pump and the housing. should almost touch. I have only been using mine for 20 years with turbo and only replaced the water pump and clutch
