In our Ofna Jammin 4x4 SCT's, we run Turnigy ESC's with Tacon motors. These motors have been bulletproof and would also HIGHLY recommend Tacon motors. Our Ofna 4x4's were purchased in April 2012 and they are still strong and working great. Tacon is another budget brand, however with popularity their prices have also increased a bit, but not as bad as Gens Ace.
There are other budget brands out there that may be just as good or better. However you cannot beat the value that you get with Turnigy. Great batteries for a great price. The same goes for other Turnigy products. I ran Turnigy motors and Turnigy Trackstar ESC's in the 1/8 Ofna Buggies. They were durable, powerful, inexpensive and very dependable. I HIGHLY recommend. I run Turnigy Trackstar motors and ESC's in the rest of my cars as well, with the exception of our Ofna 4x4's.
Correct. Today's surface receivers come with built in BEC's that prevent the need for an additional battery pack for the rx, servos. However on larger scales vehicles, many people prefer to use external BEC's to provide a direct power source for the rx and servos in order to supply more voltage to high power servos due to many ESC's not providing sufficient power to the larger steering servos for optimal performance. The BEC can be tied into the existing battery pack without needing another batt
They still hold charge well, discharge evenly and balance quickly. Of course they are not like new. I can feel a difference with a new pack vs these old packs, BUT they are still good and are great for bashing and practicing at the track. I use them for my 2wd vehicles. And they cost me less than $15 each. I have not had good success with the NanoTech version of the Turnigy brand. I have had cells die out within two cycles on brand new packs. This has happened on different packs.
That's a good point. You definitely need to upgrade to a 2.4ghz system, no question about it. However at $350 for a RTR, if you already own a nitro, the conversion can still cost a lot less than a new RTR. For example, FlySky GT3 2.4ghz radio, $40. Turnigy 1/8 scale motor, $40. Turnigy Trackstar 150a ESC, $70. Conversion parts, $50. So for about $200 you can a great setup that will FLY and is very good quality, better than what you'd get with the RTR.
At first I didn't get what you were saying because the mamba is only 41mm and mine is 43mm. However the problem with the mamba is length, not the diameter. The 75mm length of the mamba is where the problem is. However on my LX1e, the diff brace is different than the LX2e. But looking at it, I can see how the mamba will still interfere.
And even more servos are being developed to receive 7.4v direct from the typical 2S lipo to do away with a BEC all together. Of course on larger scales you are not running 2S, but 4S or 6S, etc where a BEC is still required to reduce the voltage down. Although ESC's may claim 6v or 7v BEC output, that output may be suspect and so those demanding optimal performance out of their servos, ie: 3D Helicopter Pilots, will most of the time be running an external BEC.
Yeah I had a 17 on mine first but it was just to much so I went with a 13 but it hit rear diff brace so we made a cool little brace with 11ga flat bar Works awesome
I do have recommendations. However let me forewarn you that although I race a lot, I am a budget club racer and part time basher. My recommendations come from personal experience, not heresay or speculation. My opinion is just that, MY opinion. With that said, 95% of my equipment is Turnigy. I have had great success with Turnigy. I have 2 soft pack Turnigy 3000mah 2S packs that are the first LiPo's that I bought back in March 2012. They are now well over 100 charges each.
So there you go. These are my opinions and recommendations. However my success may not be anothers success. BUT, with electric components, you MUST match them properly. I have seen people rip a specific product and call it garbage only to find out that they were using it in a manner that it was not designed for. You will burn stuff up if you over work it, so having properly matched electronics is the KEY to long lasting electronics, regardless of what brand you go with.
I measured my motor and although it specs at 43mm diameter, in reality its only 40mm diameter. With that said, the comp conversion using the LX2e diff brace should accommodate a mamba monster using a 14t pinion or larger. I don't think a 13t will work if the mamba is true to the Castle specs in diameter. If a 13t pinion will work, its going to be close. The length will not be an issue. At 75mm long, there is plenty of room before hitting the diff case.
Your videos are great for showing how to convert a old OFNA to an electric. One big question...Are you using a 2.4 Radio system or FM. I heard there maybe a lot of chatter if I stay with my old FM setup. If I have to switch to 2.4 it will probably be worth it to just get a new RTR instead.
There is plenty of room to run whatever size you want. The size motor that I am running is a 43mm x 63mm. Of course you can run anything from a smaller 36mm 540 size up to a 64 or 65mm 1/8 size motor. The length is really not an issue due to the amount of room available.
I completely removed my manual brakes. You don't need them with an electric. The ESC provides all the motor breaking power you need. Less weight and no need for an additional servo.
Much appreciate the info and part numbers. Great info. I've had one of these things collecting dust in a box for YEARS. Too noisy, too much hassle dealing with the nitro, glow plugs, etc. I'd run the thing for an hour or so, get tired of the noise and stink like nitro for the rest of the week. 15 minutes with a can of brakleen to get the 2 cycle oil sludge off of the thing. Into a box and up on a shelf in the garage for... jeez, 15 years? Electric parts ordered and on the way. Missing from your conversion parts list though is the electric motor, esc and pinion gear. Kind of hard to do an electric mod without an electric motor... ;-)
When racing, I can compete with the cars that cost 2 or 3 times as much as mine, IF I drive properly and have my car tuned properly. Its not necessarily who has the most expensive electronics, but who is the better and more experienced racer.
I saw the Turnigy stuff but also read some negative reviews, so I wasn't sure it was a good idea. I guess I could give it a shot. I've actually got a OFNA World GT 2. So, I think I will have to drill more holes, because it's missing a few more than your's is from the looks of it. On top of all that I've still got to buy the cells and charger. Get's up to $300-400 pretty fast. Do you have any good battery or charger recommendations?
Honestly, not hard at all.If you have a drill and drill bits and know how to use it, that is the most difficult part. If you buy the parts listed in the description, and save all the screws that you remove from the nitro, measure the places that need to be drilled, everything will work out great. On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty, 10 being the most difficult, I would rate this conversion a 6 only because of the measurements needed to drill the holes.
I'm running a 2650 1/8 monster mamba in mine but u can't use the diff brace that he bought which is the same problem with the lx2e when running a pinion less then 17 tooth cause motor will hit brace. I built a brace with flat bar from center diff to rear diff and ran 13 tooth and it runs nice on the track. What gets me is ofna sends 13 or 12 tooth pinion with it and tells u to use a 2650 mamba but it won't fit with that brace. And a 550 can is to small.
I would stay away from the Nano-Tech and stick with the regular Turnigy LiPo. Every Turnigy LiPo I have is great for its designated use, whether its the soft pack or hard case Turnigy. I have NOT had the same success with the Gens Ace batteries. The first two Gens Ace packs I bought were 4000mah 30C and with less cycles then the Turnigy's, they don't discharge evenly, which means charging times are increased to balance the cells. Plus, Gens Ace has increased their pricing, and so no more for me.
You did a great job with this but what is the advantage to this over nitro! I’m a nitro guy never so never got electric conversion (why not just buy the electric kit?). Someone told me once the chassis is different and if so how is it superior to the electric chassis? Thanks
Hey Frankie, Awesome video. I have an OFNA 9.5 Violator that I'm trying to convert and I just can't seem to find the motor mount required for the install. Can you help a brother out. Also wondering where I might find front and rear driveshafts as mine are bent to no end. Thanks
Just make one. Im doing a RC8 and MGT. All you have to do is get a 550 motor mount ($1..if you shop around)..drill new holes into the mount..off center and ream the center hole ( so the shaft wont hit it). Ream out one of the holes your screwing the motor into. ( this will allow you to adjust the gear mesh/ use different size pinon..easier)..Drill holes into the chassis accordingly.... The old center differental post....simply shave off the one of the old break pad screw mounting ears..so you can mount the motor mount as close as you can to the spur...it's easier than you think Mount the motor's mount face flush or parallel to that..to hep guild you keep it aligned. On the MGT it's actually easier. The transmission has 2 speed and REVERSE. You dont have to lock it out or whatever..Just make mod to the motor mount. Mount it to chasis ( 2 of the old engine mounting holes actaully align with it. You keep the old reverse servo and old throttle servo. The reverse is activated via the aux button ..It's just to so you can use the disc break instead of the motor.... The transmission is on a oneway bearing...it dosnt matter if the motor spins backwards..it's easier on the spur. People makes it harder than it has to be...to sell parts. The $1 550 motor mount are 5mm thick..it's plenty strong 4076 mounts on it perfect..if you prefer to make slot on the chassis plate or bottom of motor mount...to allow you to slide it back and forth.. but that;s bitch...messing with 4 screws. I prefer to just do it the other way...One screw to adjust the gear mesh. You can get dogbones anywhere... but if you wanna save money or get it going while youre waiting for parts.. HPI, TA. ofna...ect or even HSP. Just roll the dogbone on a piece of wood..that's cut to the same length as the shaft...so the ball part will over hang...Hammer those bad boys straight again...that why you need the ball part to over hang ...so you can roll it and make it flat/striaght from all angle....Thats what those anvils are for.lol
hey is this car a 1/10 or 1/8.. look so small for a 1/8.. are the electronics and wheels 1/8?? 1/8 have 5mm motor shaft and 17mm wheel hexes does this??
How does the receivier and steering servos get powered in these? Maybe the power comes from the esc servo line? I didn't know it could be powered that way. Is that correct or am I missing something?
These parts are super hard to find now. I found an ebay listing for someone in Greece that makes the motor mount. Can't find any sign of anyone that has the chassis brace or the battery, receiver, servo mount combo.
Look for the Hong Nor X3 Sabre parts for the battery tray. The motor mount is available on eBay right now as well. Hard as hell to find this stuff though.
I haven't fitted the 1/8 mamba monster on my comp yet. Are you saying the motor will hit diff? I'm not home right now but if it does I'm in trouble. I just got the chassis modified for all electronics. I should of clarified earlier the car that I have the problem with the rear diff brace on was a lx2e.
At the 4:25 mark I go into as much detail as possible. I just used a Sharpie to make my marks for the drilling. Fortunately by using the existing holes, there is not much guess work on where the remaining holes need to be drilled. Hope this helps.
Exelente Quiero convertir mi OFNA que codigo de Piñon Engrane usaste y que codigo de motor? Excellent I want to convert my OFNA Pinion Gear code and code you used Motor?
All of the parts used in the conversion are listed in the video description with part numbers. You can get the parts from Tower Hobbies, A-Main Hobbies, eBay or anywhere else that sells Ofna parts.
Wilson Feliciano Hi. I never put another body on my 1/8 buggies, so I cannot say. I only ran the stock bodies that came with the buggies. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
Wilson Feliciano Hi. I never put another body on my 1/8 buggies, so I cannot say. I only ran the stock bodies that came with the buggies. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
Unfortunately finding the parts for this conversion may be difficult. This video is 8 years old. I would Google all the part numbers in my description to see what you can find.
Wilson Feliciano I did want to buy a Proline Bulldog body for mine because I love the cab forward design, but I never got around to it. I ended up buying a new LX2 nitro that came with the cab forward body. I cannot imagine putting another body like a JConcepts or Proline would be too difficult. Just a trim here or there of the Lexan.
i thought i noticed both of those motors the 1/8 1900kv i had the 2100kv it was a beast wow i loved it just had bad gas milage but powerful as hell n took any thing i gave it.... the other 1 was bad choice you used... if i remember the 1900kv has kinda a high amp draw n as did the 2100kv which was even higher ... ok i loved the 2100kv n i had it in a sabertooth... n e ways 2 years ago some bitch burned down my trailer n i lost every thing but a drone that was with me at the store and the hk t6 transmitter .... i used to be ps9 at hobbyking.com well any ways one of my neighbors felt bad for me about loosing all my rc models n he made me a deal on a 1/8 ofna nitro like these here n i converted it to electric well at 1st i had a 3650 900watt 1/10 motor then i did a shit load of math and found the biggest bang for the buck after quite a bit of math on hundreds of motors i got 1900 watts of hp 1650kv max lmfao 53a gets great gas milage with power plus loads of torque because outrunner it can go 25.2v and with 18tooth pinion 35mph fast enough to keep up with any one else at track if you ar3 consistent ... ok now put a 34 tooth pinion on that motor and if you didnt turn your tires inside out and do the anti ballooning thing which i have not i cant get glue off the wheels grrr so i get up to around 43mph at about 1/4 throttle with insane violence lol... and motor heats up fast so gotta run it under a hose with kool water every couple minutes if i could find some tires like the xo1 like i had b4 fire i could afford wow i would get a really high speed and im sure high enough for some kind od world record ... not enough to beat nic case just yet but im sure it would be really high and north of 160mph.... i got my ofna that is about as old as these last year n did the conversion last summer and then in december last year i got me a water kooled 120amp esc that can go 25.2v ..... motor was 20bux i been beating the motor up since last may with 4s and dec i finally got the 6s batts n esc thats 6s and esc was shhhhh 58 bux... i sure wish i could make some damn money and take my car to a local track and race it and see how good i can do but i thnk this is best car i built yet power wise because this 1900watts is more powerful then my 2500watt 1/8 turnigy 2100kv like your 1900kv in video... any ways motor is for edf 90mm fan lol i have the stuff to put a rc car dyno together i just dont do it would be kool to see actual specs..
Im a cheap basturd. Got a almost new rc8.2 for $99....$1, 550 motor mount...hack it. Works great...No name 4076 2250KV $35, 120A ocday 2-6s $25...shhhhh The motor is only rated at 18V...but 2800W...It'll bet ya they charge more if you want a logo silk screen on it.lmao. The tires will balloon on only 3s 35c, even when I drive it.....The motor dosnt even know what heat is yet.lmao It's decent fast with gusto on the low end..maybe around 40 mph. Perfect for racing..... maybe they might over rate it as 2800 watt..IDK. I'll bet ya..I can make it go faster if I install kickass bearings in the motor... I only have a 17T..which is stock pinion size...but I dunnn think the stock is as big as a 4076.lmao...waiting waiting for the 4s 50C $200 for Rc8.2 E with 4076 2250KV....4s 5200mah 50C :-P Now I'll have to wait or 18-22T pinions. :-( ...Im cool if I can do whole shots and 50 mph...ish.) 3650??? errrr My 1/10 volcano has that.lol
nick lopez There used to be a kit that I saw once. Cannot remember who made it. Maybe Viper. But it was expensive. Buying the parts and doing it yourself is the way to go.
You will always find negative reviews. Mostly more than positive because we tend to complain easily, but are not so quick to post a positive review. The most expense is up front with electrics because of buying the charger, batteries, etc. However, once purchased they should last quite a long time.
when searching for the parts, put the ofn in front of the number ie: ofn30676. This video is several years old and parts were easy to find at the time.
Unfortunately that is the reality. Being restricted to PayPal is gonna severely limit your options, especially with hard to find parts that are no longer in production.
Look on eBay. You might still be able to find one. This video was uploaded 8 years ago and parts may no longer be available. OFN30675 is the part number.
