Crusty gets steering! had to chop up a new mustang II rack and pinon and shorten it 4.5 inches so it would work in the K30 street strip Corolla. run into all kinds of issues and things had to be cut up again!
You know, Fitzee, the guy who runs the channel Fanatik Builds is working on a similar project... and about a year ago he did a video where he explained ALL of the pertinent motions and angles when it comes to steering. He seems a bit too young to be so knowledgeable, but as it turns out he had to learn it all as he was doing it. If you haven't seen that build series, I strongly recommend it. I like it better than the Binky build... and better than Home Built by Jeff projects. It's REALLY good. I love what you are doing... I wish there were 100 channels like yours and these other two, but as it is I have to find the patience to wait for the next installments on the projects. You are uploading the most videos at the moment, and I can't thank you enough for sharing this journey with us. I can't wait to see how it all comes together.
With an excellent mentor, an apprentice could eventually become the mentor. He could have been turning bolts along with his family since he popped out of the womb.
HEY, I 'M VISION IMPAIRED AND I LOVE WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS OVER AND OVER. I STARTED MY 56 CHEVY 3100 AND LOST MY SIGHT, SO I ENJOY WATCHING UP CLOSE TO LEARN HOW TO SHAPE PANELS. A FEW MORE SURGERY'S AND I THINK I'LL HAVE A LITTLE MORE SIGHT SO I CAN START AGAIN. THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS. MIKE
Hi Tony. Nice progress on Crusty. Very good explaination of bump steer, which is a hard subject to wrap your head around (at least that's how its been for me). Good to have a machinist friend for those tough situations where you need a mill or lathe but don't have one. Thanks for the video!
I agree. I've dealt with the old air cooled VWs for years but they have an entirely different trailing arm set up that eliminates virtually all of the bump steer probs. This video has been a super eye opener and the old VWs are not my only passion. This is very good information
Excellent job (and tutorial!) I remember looking into steering for an independent front end years ago and as I remember it with a straight line scribed through the 2 wishbone pivots, the rack "should" have the ball joint in the same plane. Brave too narrowing a rack where most people would just play around with steering arm length. Narrow cars + V8's = a frequent pain getting the column in there too! Well done sir!
As always, another well executed and detailed video with great tips and tricks! It was also good to see inspector "Peanut" checking up to make sure you done things right, at the end. lol
Best video yet in your series. Doing the same problem solving and design process with a ‘75 Dodge D100 pickup and installing Dakota rack & pinion install. EXCELLENT logical process, Best I have seen yet on any internet or “resto mod TV shows” this is REAL engineering and design development. GREAT WORK. 👍👍👍👍
Quality stuff seeing the technical development prior to the fully built car then to have issues, so many people slap things together then try to compensate for their wrong doings trying to cut corners.
great job young fella. I have used almost every type of steering there is and still prefer the R&P. The last one I used was from an AMC car and it was easy to remake. Keep the videos coming. appreciate them and your work.
You bring a whole new meaning to the term “custom”…. Absolutely nothing fazes you… 👏👏👏👏I wish i was blessed with half the patience and quarter of the knowledge you have…
Excellent video Tony! Showing the actual science, explaining the geometry, AND above all, the work in the trenches is a fantastic contribution to the car culture. May more cars come "out of the dig" in a straight line thanks to this great video.
Lots of projects requires us to simple walk a way and Tackle it another day. When your get too stress out over having to do things over and over again. Such is life unfortunately. Nevertheless, Tony, It Looks as though you finally nailed it on the alignment..well at least now you don't have to go with a bump steer kit which is what you wanted, so Congrats Tony I think you finally got this.
To avoid bump steer, the best way is to align the center of the ball of the inner tie rod end ( at the end of the rack ) with the axis of rotation of the lower control arm, that way, there is no relative movement between the tie rod and the control arm as the wheel bumps so the wheel direction remains stable in regatd to the movement of the control arm. you done a very good job on the designing of the steering system for that car.
Excellent job. I always say that its the details that get you in any job. I'm like you are. a perfectionist. i know i have been out and measured parts over and over and over trying to find that exact perfect alignment. My wife says its crazy, but it would bug me till the end of time if i knew it wasn't right. Thanks for sharing your adventures in building
It looks like for the geometry to work right, you'd want the inner ball joints on the rack to pivot at the same point as your lower A-frame. Looks pretty close where you ended up. Centering up on those a-frame bolts just ensures that the rack arms maintain the same arc as the A-frame does during its travel.
I usually keep my old cars stock but one I was thinking of doing a engine swap and put a rack&pinion in it. This helps with a few things I didn't think about.
Hi Fitzee, Wow you do nice work, not only do you do precise work, but professional work, excellent work, we love your channel here in Lima Peru thanks for sharing as always we look forward to seeing more videos, especially on this particular car From your friends here in Lima Peru George & Carmen 👍
That was an extremely complicated process that you went through to get everything right. But better to spend the time to make sure it's right and then you know it's right, rather than trying to save time and then not having it right. It can be annoying when you have to undo something you already did, I just had that happen to me with a project I'm working on, but when you have to redo something, you have to redo it to make sure it's right, or you'll never be happy with it and wish you'd taken the time to get it right.
Making it look easy again Tony . that was really well done Sir. ya just solved a problem I was having . Thank you Brother for taking the Guess work out of it for me . I really really appreciate You. 😎👍
Fitzee, keep showing the results at the beginning when you can, it makes it more interesting when you see the process of getting there during the video afterward.
Thank you fitz I need to do the same thing on the mopar i am building, Thow i am useing a engine/rack mount by Control Freak there are still some wedge type washers that adjust the rack mounting. So your video will come in pretty handy!!!! thanks again!
Wow! I respect the incredible amount of work it takes to do what you just did from start to finish.💪💪. Impressive you've got it to no toe-in on full droop, & perfect through range of motion 🤯.. I'm a mechanic, lots of alignments, almost every modern street car has toe in on full droop. I guess this is how you set up a drag car.. Also it seems you have little few inches of movement in that rack 😨.. huge turning radius. It looks like inner tie rods are super long & rack movement extra short.. Maybe its for drag racing,
Great video . Sorry has to break everything loose and remove sections just to get perfect dimensions and proper parts for the steering to be put in. You taught alot but,I am sure it was a major set back to you
With front steer, and the tie rods parrallel to the ground, you will have tow in in both droop and bump. Rear steel will do the opposite, giving tow out.
I understand what you have done here, but from what I have seen and the way it's been explained to me, the inner balls of the rod ends are supposed to be equal length from each other as the pivot bolts or pins of the lower control arms. The entire rod end is supposed to be parallel with the lower control arm. The center of the inner ball should be at the same height as the lower arm pivot, and the bolt or joint from the outer end of the rod should be spaced to make sure the rod is parallel with the lower control arm. Done this way, everything stays in alignment. I have seen many race cars built with the rack push far forward to make room for pulleys and such and they leave a sharp angle back to the knuckle, but they complain about controlling the car when it gets out of shape running down the track.... I have also seen where people made up their own outer joint that pushes the rod out much closer to parallel between the control arm and tie rod.... It's all about what you want and think you will be happy with, but al least take a look at it this way.. Safe is better than not!!!
I was always told that bump steer was eliminated when the inner pivot of the rack was on the line between the upper arm inner pivot and the lower arm pivot. The tie rods should be straight across at ride height. You may have arrived there but took a trial and error route
Where you are going to put the rack and pinion welded nuts inside the tube frame, I would tend to use coupling nuts instead of normal nuts. Coupling nuts would give you a lot more thread to tie into and lessen the chances of stripping the nut out.
That was very interesting and informative. You didn’t rely on the measurements that should work but tested and tested until it was precise. A great accomplishment. I appreciate your perseverance 🫡
You're a genius . Your fabricating & engineering skills are amazing . maybe a dumb question, steering columns have a crush joint so in a crash the steering wheel doesn't push in to your chest, do you have anything in your set up?
Fitzee - I'm sticking round. You really draw me into you projects. I went to school on this one and learned stuff I did not know. I will come back and rerun this one when I build my cobra. I was going with a 63 Fairlane front end but now I'm sold on the Mustang 2. I missed the control arm fabrication and install - which video is that? I need to go back and watch it please.
I have a Playlist on this car. There was a few videos leading up yo the front end setup. Was all the chassis building section. Can't remember the videos right now lol
I had an old Jeep Wrangler and it bump steered terrible in stock form. I put about a 5” lift on it and some big tires and it went away completely. It ate u-joints terrible but no bump steer 😂
@@georgebettiol8338 I bought it used but bone stock from an older gentleman, not even oversized tires or anything. It bump steered bad. I bought a 4” lift kit that included a new dropped pitman arm and made new shackles that raised it about another inch. I don’t know what did it but after the lift and 33” tires it drove like a dream other than being hard on rear u joints. It didn’t make sense to me either but I had it like that for about 10 years before selling it and it always worked great.
I think I understand what you were doing here. If I'm right at full droop and at normal ride height the wheels are parallel but what are they like at half droop? They will have some toe in or toe out so were you able to confirm it would be toe in as you wanted? Maybe it's so small it won't matter.
I've always wondered why they dont use some sort of hydraulic steering systems for hotrods, similar to what they use in front or centre console outboard motor powered boats.
Vehicle design laws require that a car's steering must maintain a mechanical connection - which remains thus even if the hydraulic or electrical steering assistance fails. In the case of a marine hyrdaulic steering system, a failure of the hydraulics will result in complete loss of steering - probably not as serious on water but very concerning (an under statement) if it occurs on city streets or whislt travelling at high speed on highways. There are vehicles that use 'marine type' hydraulic steering, however these are speed limited and prohibited from using the 'normal road network' - e.g. airport baggage handlers, trucks used in open cut mines, etc. In Australia, any changes made to a vehicle's steering system requires an engineering assessment and sign-off - otherwise the vehicle is not permitted on the road.
